[speedlever]

I'm looking to hardwire my newly acquired dashcam using the wiring to my auto-dim compass mirror in the overhead console.

I need to take a spare USB cable and cut the end off to expose the power and ground wire. I also need to get some kind of 12v to 5v step down converter to wire between the 12v on the RL to the 5v input on the camera.

Any reason why something like this won't work?

I thought to use some small wire nuts to make the connections in the console and then run the USB wire down the channel for the autodim mirror wiring to the mirror. Is there a better way to make the connections other than wire nuts?

 

[Dnick]

I'm looking to hardwire my newly acquired dashcam using the wiring to my auto-dim compass mirror in the overhead console.

I need to take a spare USB cable and cut the end off to expose the power and ground wire. I also need to get some kind of 12v to 5v step down converter to wire between the 12v on the RL to the 5v input on the camera.

Any reason why something like this won't work?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBCGAL8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1ZMYPISA1O3YE

I thought to use some small wire nuts to make the connections in the console and then run the USB wire down the channel for the autodim mirror wiring to the mirror. Is there a better way to make the connections other than wire nuts?

I'd use twist & crimp ("crimp caps") before I'd use wire nuts. Just my preference where there's any vibration at all.

 

[genji]

i use posilocks for wiring. a little more expensive but they work great. as far as the step down converter, as long as it can handle the voltage range during crank, it should be fine. i would probably put a fuse there somewhere if it doesn't have one though.

 

[speedlever]

Thanks for the ideas. I bet the only fuse is in the 12v adapter that came with it.

 

[Advanex]

http://www.aapexonline.com/wire-terminals/nylon-crimp-caps/nylon-crimp-caps-22-14-awg-qty-100.html

 

[interpon]

According to scooter it works....

Great Product and Super Fast Shipping, May 28, 2014
By Scooter - See all my reviews
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: Nextrox® Car LED Display Power Supply 12V to 5V 3A DC/DC Buck Converter Module (Electronics)
This is a great product and a great seller. Super fast shipping and great communication.

I use the product to power my dash cam from 12 vdc to 5 vdc for a USB interface. Attached to the windshield with Velcro and wired into the overhead light in the auto. Dash Cam can not bee seen when wired like this.

I will do business with these folks again.

 

[Jonnynel]

That 12 volt step down module you posted should work fine to get your voltage down. I would recommend looking through amazon as they have several different ones and some have worse reviews than others.

As far as the circuit to tie into I would recommend using an "Add a circuit" adapter like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1412514193&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=add+a+circuit

This allows you to add plug into the fuse box below the dashboard and maintain the original fused protection on the circuit you are tapping into but also fuse the circuit for your dash cam.

I also wouldn't use wire nuts.... try to use "butt connectors" or solder and wrap with electrical tape. The gauge wire you will be using is almost too small to use a wire nut, especially if you are going to cut the end off of a usb cable. They probably have 24-30 gauge wire.

 

[speedlever]

Jonnynel, wiring that way... that would not be switched power, would it? I want switched power for a dashcam. I only want it running when the engine is running.

Also, I would rather tap into the overhead wiring that trying to run wires from the kickpanel fuse box.... lazy me.

 

[Dnick]

Jonnynel, wiring that way... that would not be switched power, would it? I want switched power for a dashcam. I only want it running when the engine is running.

Also, I would rather tap into the overhead wiring that trying to run wires from the kickpanel fuse box.... lazy me.

I'm curious if you're planning on an in-line fuse for this, or just relying on the existing fuse for mirror? I'm no expert, but a second fuse would seem redundant, especially since the mirror will work fine, even if the fuse blows (just won't be able to tell which way is home!).

 

[speedlever]

I'm not planning to put an additional fuse in there. Not sure where it would go. If there's a fuse for the auto dimming compass mirror, it's buried in the hardware.

 

[firefighter3666]

From the standpoint of reducing electrical problems down the road - you are better off running a new line from the fuse box. Personally I'd go with an 'add a fuse', solder, and heat shrink tubing. One possible benefit of going this route is the ability to secure the step-down converter to prevent unwanted rattles.

 

[Jonnynel]

Jonnynel, wiring that way... that would not be switched power, would it? I want switched power for a dashcam. I only want it running when the engine is running.

Also, I would rather tap into the overhead wiring that trying to run wires from the kickpanel fuse box.... lazy me.

There are both constant on and switched circuits at the fuse box. The main advantage of the add a circuit tap is you don't have to cut into factory wiring. Modern vehicles use "can bus" and "multiplex" wiring meaning one wire can perform many different functions so when you tap into the a wire you run the risk of problems down the road. I am sure if you are careful you can find a wire to tap into, but I would recommend crimp connectors. You may not be able to find a switched power wire in the headliner either as most functions like the dome light have a constant source. I understand you about the lazy part though! I used to install alarms and remote starts daily.... now some 10 yrs later and 4 kids later I find myself toying with paying someone to do things on mine.

 

[speedlever]

Jonnynel, there is switched power that I had to connect to the auto-dim compass mirror when I installed that. There was an existing connector overhead that I used for that. I figured I'd tap into that circuit for the dashcam power.

While I like your idea, I have no idea how to run a wire from the kickpanel fuse panel to the overhead area. There is an airbag in the A pillar and I don't know enough about that to be comfy popping off trim and running the wire.

There's where your experience doing these installs really comes in handy.

 

[e_piph_a_ny]

Speed,
I was in your shoes a few months ago. I thought about splicing into the mirror but took the 'easier' route.

Using the supplied AC cord:
I pushed the cord into the headliner and headed towards the driver 'A' pillar.
Continued pushing the cord into the plastic pillar cover, heading south between the dash panel and pillar.
Down the door jamb (hinge area), pushed cord into the plastic thing that covers the metal body edge (sorry, can't be more technical), snaked cord into dash (see link), and using add-a-circuit tied to a portable cig adapter.

Took maybe 10 - 15 minutes tops.


http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=287677&postcount=4

 

[Dnick]

OK Speed. I am NOT the electrical expert here, BUT I do understand what you're getting at.
First, I am SURE (as sure as a non-expert can be) that your compass circuit is fused somewhere back up the line. I was thinking this circuit is what you wanted to use, and that seemed fine to me, unless the combined load (compass + what you are adding) exceeds the fuse value for that circuit. I really don't think you'll find any un-fused power in the cab anywhere, for good reason. (except maybe source wiring going to fuse box)
Second, it seems like the "switched" power you want is where you proposed to get it.... the mirror circuit. So does your question boil down to "which mirror wire" and "how to tap into it"???
To that I would first ask, how many wires come into that connector. If only two, then you're looking at simple power & ground circuit. You can test with meter to verify. You could check schematics in your Service Manual, but I think that's overkill for what you're doing.... unless that's the only way you can determine what fuse rating that circuit is on.
Lastly, just do what you proposed, with these caveats:
1) Verify circuit/fuse rating to your mirror will handle added load (mirror + new dash cam down-converter thingy).
2) Identify + & - lines you'll be tapping into at the mirror.
3) Assuming "yes" to #1 above, Tap into mirror wires for parallel circuit to your new gizmo. Use which ever reliable tapping method fits in the space you have. Personally, I would NOT cut the wires, but would use one of the insulation piercing products to tap the lines, if space allows. Other methods are OK too, depending only on your preference. I wouldn't use screw on wire taps w/o some kind of secondary sealing/securing method (tape?).... then I suppose they might work as good as any other.
4) I might add a small, appropriately sized "in line" fuse for your separate new parallel circuit (on the power line BEFORE the down-converter) if you have space. This really isn't necessary if you're OK with both mirror & camera being on same fuse (if one goes, both go - not likely to be an issue). Even with secondary fuse added, you'll lose both mirror & camera if original primary fuse blows; but you won't lose mirror if new secondary in-line fuse blows.
5) Secure your down-converter thingy & wire up your new dash cam.
6) Have a beer & pretend you know what you're doing ! ! !
Congrats in advance..... Nice Job! :act024:

 

[speedlever]

Time to update this thread. I never got around to this project. However, I recently discovered a local audio shop that seems to do good work at very reasonable prices.

I had this shop rewire one of my front 12v outlets and make it hot all the time. So I got to thinking... and bought the 12v to 5v stepdown converter mentioned in the first post. I grabbed some USB type A male to mini B male cables, and while I was hot, grabbed my Valentine 1 direct-wire power adapter kit.

My audio guy did a nice job cleaning up my spaghetti collection of power cables running up from my 12v sockets to various points on my windshield. Now I have my V1 and my dashcam powered by the switched power going to my auto-dim compass mirror. Power doesn't come on until the switch is in the ignition position.

I like it. And he only charged me $25 for the conversion!

 

[OhSix]

Just saw this thread - only read the first few posts so I dunno where you are with your project. I used that same DC/DC converter to power a USB port, an old school standalone Magellan GPS and a dedicated source for a micro USB to Android device. Current demand from the converter is very low, so I joined it with the wiring adapter @ the radio. Nice, steady 5V supply with enough current capacity to power all 3 devices simultaneously.



OOPS. Just saw your project is completed.