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Discussion Starter #1
When I was younger I used to just clamps the POS to POS & NEG to NEG.

Then, I "graduated" to clamping the NEG to a solid metal frame..etc.

Now the RL.. The manual said to clamp the NEG to the "engine hanger" and DO NOT connect to any other areas !..which means we have to take off the engine cover..etc.

I am currently using one of those winter emergency booster pack...there is no way my 2 ends can spread that far between the POS of the battery and the engine hanger !!

:surprise::surprise:

any thought or suggestions ?

I would think the NEG to a metal frame is safe enough ? ( I think it have to do with sensitive equipment/computer onboard..etc. )

Thanks.
 

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I had no ideal about this, had to jump my neighbors jeep the other day and I connected neg to neg and pos to pos... it all works as it should. I wonder if this applies only when jumping the RL.
 

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For a 2012 Honda Accord

If the battery in your Accord is dead, you’ll need a jump to get running once more (and then you’ll probably want to get the battery replaced, or at least have the charging system checked). To jump your battery, follow these steps:

Open the hood.

Make sure there’s no damage to the battery (if there is, don’t jump it).

Turn everything in the car off.

Connect the jumper cables in this order:
Positive cable to positive battery terminal
Positive cable to positive terminal on the good battery
Negative cable to the negative terminal on the good battery
Negative cable to the engine mounting bolt. Note: If you have a V6, connect the negative cable to the engine hanger.

If the good battery is in another car, make sure the engine is running.

Start your car.

If the starter seems slow, let it sit for a minute or two before trying again.

After the engine cranks, disconnect the jumper cables beginning with the negative cable on your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For a 2012 Honda Accord

If the battery in your Accord is dead, you’ll need a jump to get running once more (and then you’ll probably want to get the battery replaced, or at least have the charging system checked). To jump your battery, follow these steps:

Open the hood.

Make sure there’s no damage to the battery (if there is, don’t jump it).

Turn everything in the car off.

Connect the jumper cables in this order:
Positive cable to positive battery terminal
Positive cable to positive terminal on the good battery
Negative cable to the negative terminal on the good battery
Negative cable to the engine mounting bolt. Note: If you have a V6, connect the negative cable to the engine hanger.

If the good battery is in another car, make sure the engine is running.

Start your car.

If the starter seems slow, let it sit for a minute or two before trying again.

After the engine cranks, disconnect the jumper cables beginning with the negative cable on your engine.
so...the original question still remains ! :)

Too far of a stretch & taking off the engine cover...too much work.
 

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Could you buy a short jumper cable and just use it to extend the reach of the negative cable on your booster pack? If you're worried about a short or a spark where you fasten the jumper cable to your booster pack, you might be able to make a simple sheath for that connection with a piece of inner tube.
 

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Wondering if it is difficult to remove from the pins, especially in the snow or heavy rain. Hmmm... maybe we need to practice this, just in case.. :wink: Besides there is a potential to fry the complicated onboard computer, I cannot think of any other reasons.
 

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I'm betting the wording is mainly to help prevent battery explosions connecting both + and - to the battery terminals and a spark igniting hydrogen gas. If the G2 RL is different electrically than any other vehicle in the world, I'd like to know about it. I agree that removing the engine cover is a PITA.

And if I had to jump a G2, I would likely just connect to the terminals themselves. I seriously doubt anyone in the field is going to remove the engine cover (or would even know to do that) to jump start a G2 RL. I'm curious if the G3 Pilot has a similar jump starting note?

One reason I carry a jump starter is so I won't have to connect my vehicle's electric system to another system. I have done so in the past without harm, but I think today's computer driven vehicles are much more susceptible to electronic damage from this process than vehicles of yesterday.

There are (or used to be) jumper cables that sorted out the +/- automagically. I don't know if they're still offered or not. But a jump starter (JNC-660 in my case) eliminates the danger to using my vehicle as the power source to jump a dead battery.
 

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...

There are (or used to be) jumper cables that sorted out the +/- automagically. I don't know if they're still offered or not. But a jump starter (JNC-660 in my case) eliminates the danger to using my vehicle as the power source to jump a dead battery.
I've got one of those JNC-660 jumpers, also. They are nice for an old-style jumper pack....relatively small and lightweight.

Still toying with the idea of getting one of those lithium jumpers that fit in your shirt pocket. I know they work and have plenty of juice for multiple jumps, but I am concerned about their stability when sitting in sub-zero temps for a week. Last time I needed a jump was at the airport after the car sat for a week (had turned on the overhead light to make sure I had everything I needed, and forgot to shut it off when the parking shuttle pulled up).
 

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Taking about spark, it reminds me of my NOCO Genius Smart Battery Charger. I bought it and put in my old car for emergency but never used it except re-charge it twice a year. It said it has spark-proof technology. Now, I am wondering if the NOCO jumper cable is LONG enough if we have to charge it this way, I have to check tonight. Arrrgg.... also, not sure if it is powerful enough to boost the G2 RL. :surprise:
 

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Engine cover pulls off with no tools, and has 4 grommets that sit on 4 posts on the engine.

Put a tiny amount of grease in the center holes of the rubber grommets, or the grommets will get pulled from the cover and lost. Practice with the cover for 2 minutes and familiarize, so you won't be overwhelmed while jump starting.

Another great spot for jump starting is the engine mouting bolt on the passenger side motor mount. It runs front to back, and has solid metal connection for good ground. No engine cover removal necessary.
 

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I see no one has really addressed the reason still, so here goes.
It will still start just fine if you attach pos to pos and neg to neg. The practice of using the frame was to prevent the accidental short circuit if you connect pos to neg. Obviously not good, and can melt your jumper cables in short order...
Moving the negative mounting point to the opposite side of the engine bay is another safety change. Lead acid batteries can produce hydrogen (very flammable). The last connection you make is going to be the one that may spark. Moving that connection as far from the battery as possible, limits the chance of that hydrogen catching fire.
It's unlikely to happen, but still a possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wondering if it is difficult to remove from the pins, especially in the snow or heavy rain. Hmmm... maybe we need to practice this, just in case.. :wink: Besides there is a potential to fry the complicated onboard computer, I cannot think of any other reasons.
If you're talking about the engine cover...it is super easy to remove !! ...BUT !!!

because it's rubber on rubber..you have resistance/friction when trying to put back ( pushing down ).... the friction makes it difficult to put back...the grommet won't slide down on the pins.

REMOVE-->> EASY
PUTTING BACK-->>DIFFICULT

I ended up losing a couple of the grommets that goes onto the 4 pins ( friction/resistant makes it pop loose )..This is from when I was installing the VCMuzzler II :p

I have since sprayed automotive grease/lube on the grommets & pins and now I can removed/install in seconds ;)
 

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I'm betting the wording is mainly to help prevent battery explosions connecting both + and - to the battery terminals and a spark igniting hydrogen gas.
That is the only reason. The battery and electrical system does not know if you are connecting to the neg post or frame. it completes the circuit either way. BUT, the spark will be further away from the bad battery. I guarantee, somewhere along the line of idiots jumping their cars over the years, a battery (obviously bad, but idiots cannot tell a bad battery, until it explodes in their face.) had a battery explode and the idiots sued the car manufacturer for some stupid reason....and won. Hey that's the way things work these days, SOMEONE has to pay... :act002:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm betting the wording is mainly to help prevent battery explosions connecting both + and - to the battery terminals and a spark igniting hydrogen gas. If the G2 RL is different electrically than any other vehicle in the world, I'd like to know about it. I agree that removing the engine cover is a PITA.

And if I had to jump a G2, I would likely just connect to the terminals themselves. I seriously doubt anyone in the field is going to remove the engine cover (or would even know to do that) to jump start a G2 RL. I'm curious if the G3 Pilot has a similar jump starting note?

One reason I carry a jump starter is so I won't have to connect my vehicle's electric system to another system. I have done so in the past without harm, but I think today's computer driven vehicles are much more susceptible to electronic damage from this process than vehicles of yesterday.

There are (or used to be) jumper cables that sorted out the +/- automagically. I don't know if they're still offered or not. But a jump starter (JNC-660 in my case) eliminates the danger to using my vehicle as the power source to jump a dead battery.
wondered why the post by Henni shows that when it comes to V6...connections requirement are different then the V4 though.
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/2161801-post5.html
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I got me one of these since last year and it WILL start anything and hold its charge for at least 1 year ( I have tested it and it's true as advertised ) ;)

https://www.cyntur.com/Store/Product-Viewer/lithium-ionjumpstarter

again...too short to stretch to those 2 points...I'm just going to go with what I have done for a LONG time !!..POS to POS....NEG to metal frame :p

 

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Discussion Starter #19
That is the only reason. The battery and electrical system does not know if you are connecting to the neg post or frame. it completes the circuit either way. BUT, the spark will be further away from the bad battery. I guarantee, somewhere along the line of idiots jumping their cars over the years, a battery (obviously bad, but idiots cannot tell a bad battery, until it explodes in their face.) had a battery explode and the idiots sued the car manufacturer for some stupid reason....and won. Hey that's the way things work these days, SOMEONE has to pay... :act002:
Reminds me of recent incidents/news

-->> Hoverboard battery isolated explosion-->> user error !

-->> Vape mods battery explosion-->> user error !

results in bans and such for the rest of us :p
 
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