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Discussion Starter #1
Damn truck.... Oil changed with Mobil full syn since I bought it new, Rod bearing let go on the way home from work, Only 111000 miles on it.
Replacement engine on the way,
Dyno oil and fram filters from now on as the WIX filters and Mobil1 was a total waste of money.

Damn truck....
 
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That sucks but I seriously doubt Mobil One was the cause.

I give my truck ZERO special treatment. When it's time for an oil change I stop at any oil change place & they put whatever crap oil in it they want & I'm on my merry way. It's worked for 250K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That sucks but I seriously doubt Mobil One was the cause.

I give my truck ZERO special treatment. When it's time for an oil change I stop at any oil change place & they put whatever crap oil in it they want & I'm on my merry way. It's worked for 250K miles.
Yep, My next engine will be the same, No more money wasted on Mobil1, Cheap ass dyno oil from now on,
I cant believe this happened, My brother laughs at me with my oil, His Ram has 280000 miles and he did the same as you, He changes his oil at the quick stop oil change places randomly when he is driving around......
 

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Damn truck.... Oil changed with Mobil full syn since I bought it new, Rod bearing let go on the way home from work, Only 111000 miles on it.
Replacement engine on the way,
Dyno oil and fram filters from now on as the WIX filters and Mobil1 was a total waste of money.

Damn truck....
How do you know the cause of the failure? Has the engine been disassembled?
 

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There are _many_ big-end bearing failure reports from Subaru owners who run M1. Many ascribe the failure to the lube. Others say that there are several times as many such reports with M1 vs all others because (they assume) more people use M1, (they assume) M1 users more often modify their Subies and/or drive them very hard, and so on.

In the end, neither side ever really presents any information or data, just anecdote and presumption.

If you pull this engine apart and can put evidence together that the part(s) failed due to a failure or deficiency on the part of the M1, you can make a claim against Mobil's warranty. See their website for details as to what they guarantee/promise.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Honestly, I have no idea what caused it, Thats whats pissing me off, Proper maintenance and never abused.
I did remove the serpentine belt and harmonic balancer off just to make sure it wasn't one of them, I also removed the timing belt covers to make sure timing was all lined up. No problems there with timing or with the auto tensioner.
Then my buddy who owns a garage came over and said rod blown and as soon as it started, Its really loud knocking,
I knew what it was but I didn't want to believe it..

He also said the valves are bent on one or more cylinders as there is a bad miss when the engine is running, He recons the piston hit a valve or something like that after the bearing or rod failed.. Its flopping around in there :)

I am going to strip the motor and see what happened or what failed,

Oh, Oil was changed 3 weeks ago..
 

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I'm not there to hear it, but had the same sound on other vehicles.
Changed the timing belt; tensioner, rollers and water pump and the car ran like new.
It doesn't take much to cause a loud noise with interference engines.

You can run frames filters if you want, but I wouldn't even if they were free for life.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained....best of luck in which ever road you choose.
 

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Be interesting to hear what you find, tacky1. Sorry for the hassle & expense.
 

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If you pull this engine apart and can put evidence together that the part(s) failed due to a failure or deficiency on the part of the M1, you can make a claim against Mobil's warranty. See their website for details as to what they guarantee/promise.[/QUOTE]

if not timing belt, I wonder if ANYONE got paid from the warranty?? I would be sure who takes it apart jt in case hassle and under warranty??
 

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Tacky, you may have said and I missed it, but what exact oil were you typically running in this engine? 'Regular' M1 5W20, the Advanced Fuel Economy 0W20, the Extended Performance 0 or 5W20, or one of the 5W30s?

NOTE: I will NOT blame for any choice. I'm trying to gather info to compare with other reports like this from other places. PM me if you'd rather.
 

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Please let us know what's discovered when you get this engine torn down. I understand your instincts as to what happened, but I'd bet a bunch (based on your descriptions) that your problem is/was NOT a "blown bearing". I'd be extremely surprised if it is.... and even MORe surprised if it had anything at all to do with the type of oil used. FYI, that same loud knock can be from a number of causes.... and the "bent valve" speculation more or less contradicts the rod bearing speculations.

We'd be particularly interested to know if this ends up being another cyl 4 or 5 failure.... or a case of timing belt woes of some sort.

Keep us posted please.
 

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I had my 07 ridge up to date service since new. It always had a ticking noise at idle my mechanic told me 3.5 are noisy don't worry about it. I hate dealer service but what the heck. $90 to diagnose the noise. So they said I need a valve adjustment 52000 miles. At the end of the day they said engine wont run bent rocker arm and damaged cam shaft. wtf. $2000. estimate they would cover 1/2 . I said NO WAY it ran when it came in here I am calling Honda then my lawyer. They fought me due to no warranty.. After the dust settled Honda covered the repair. A new engine was put in. $5000. so much for dealer service. 3 years later it runs fine No ticking but rattles every where due to poor dealer assembly. I can live with it . But I know how you feel. This was my first {and last} Honda. I have been a chevy guy and some day I will go back. I have so many add ons I like my truck and will run it till it's dead. I don't blame honda only I have never replaced a engine on any vehicle I have had and many have had high mileage Also I avoid dealer service like the plague. Good Luck replace the engine and enjoy your ridge.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Tacky, you may have said and I missed it, but what exact oil were you typically running in this engine? 'Regular' M1 5W20, the Advanced Fuel Economy 0W20, the Extended Performance 0 or 5W20, or one of the 5W30s?

NOTE: I will NOT blame for any choice. I'm trying to gather info to compare with other reports like this from other places. PM me if you'd rather.
Ran the Mobil 5W20, just normal synthetic,
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Rod bearings failed on cylinder 6, Everything else looks like new in there, All mains and other rod bearings are really clean and very little wear, Oil rings are completely stuck on most of the cylinders, I did notice it was using a little oil in the last year or so, Nothing to worry about, Maybe a quart between oil changes, Pistons are in great shape, very little scoring, The black coating is barely worn, Cams are perfect, no scoring or anything abnormal, one set of inlet valves are bet on cylinder 6, Thats it, Rebuild time...
 
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