Also, the oil level is fine as well as coolant level, timing components are still intact and there are no connecting rods sticking out of the block. It didn't over heat or make any strange noises before seizing.
Engine failure at 135k!!!!!
I have an 06 Ridgeline with 135k miles on it. It hasn't been abused or mistreated in any way. I have always changed the oil either right at 15% of higher since I've owned it (from 20k miles). I was driving down the highway and without any noise or indications of any kind, the engine seized. I pulled over and safely came to a stop, tried the ignition and get a hard click from the starter engaging into what seems to be a seized flex plate. I've accepted the fact that the engine is gone (two 220 lb guys hanging from a breaker bar on the crank bolt). Researching replacement engines, the RL engines are around $2,000 most are higher. I know the blocks are the same as the Pilot. Pricing a pilot engine with less miles is significantly less Like $400. Has anyone swapped in a pilot engine? Do you know what I would have to transfer from the RL engine to the pilot engine to make it work? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Sounds like you may possibly have experienced a timing belt failure.... which can result in catastrophic failure, given interference engine. BUT... TB failure at that mileage is virtually unheard of, even though service interval is 105K miles..... AND, it typically wouldn't have resulted in an "instant seizure" as you have described. More likely damaged/broken valves & clattering before any greater colapse (e.g. broken pistons or ???). Although it doesn't sound like you may ever find out, it would be VERY interesting to us here to know the specific failure mode of this engine... in case you ever find out.Also, the oil level is fine as well as coolant level, timing components are still intact and there are no connecting rods sticking out of the block. It didn't over heat or make any strange noises before seizing.
Regarding the Pilot swap... memory's too fuzzy. Others will provide insight. I CAN tell you that model year will have as much to do with swapping complexities as does the actual model (RL vs Pilot). You'll want an expert addressing this for sure if you entertain this "cross-species" engine swap. Personally, I'd go with the RL match, unless I was 100% sure I wasn't creating issues that would bite me after the install. If you are wondering if the Pilot engine is exactly the same as the RL.... it is not. Not sure about just the block, in case that is an option for you.
The long blocks for the Ridgeline and Pilot are slightly different, as the RL was optimized for torque. $2k for one isn't bad.
I wouldn't go for a Pilot engine, as there might be ECU software differences that would cause further problems.
I'm curious what the cause was - this practically never happens to a well-maintained J35.
Chip H.
I wouldn't go for a Pilot engine, as there might be ECU software differences that would cause further problems.
I'm curious what the cause was - this practically never happens to a well-maintained J35.
Chip H.
Also 2wd Pilots of that year had VCM BUT AWD Pilots didn't
Thanks for the insight. I just pulled the engine today and am waiting on another engine. I am curious as well about the failure, I am going to rip it apart and check it out. The timing belt was just replaced at 120k miles. I used genuine Honda components and it is still 100% intact. It's a mystery. The oil is still clean from the last change and there is no metal on the drain plug or in the oil. I am going to cut the filter in half too to inspect.
Subscribed. Very interested in this. With good oil pressure, no overheating, and no engine noise or warning lights of any kind immediately before it popped has me curious as to what possibly caused this. My first thought would be timing belt letting go and dropping some valves into some cylinders causing carnage. ( realizing you said belt was replaced already )
Good luck with the replacement, I hope it goes as smoothly as possible for you.
Good luck with the replacement, I hope it goes as smoothly as possible for you.
Agree with prior post. There are a gad-zillion of these 3.5 motors out there and this failure mode is virtually unheard of. Plenty of valve train, and auxiliaries (steering, AC, electrical, etc.) stuff but the motor is typically rock solid. Keep us in the loop please. Almost makes me think there was a sudden failure (rod or crank) and this was just not your lucky day.
I am wondering if maybe the input shaft on the tranny seized. I was driving at 70 mph when it happened. I smoothly coasted to a stop. Very unlikely but I am. It going to discount anything at this point. I pulled the engine and tranny together because I wasn't able to spin the engine over to get the torque converter bolts. Figured I would just completely separate the tranny outside of the truck leaving the torque converter attached to the flex plate. Then I can access all of the bolts to remove the torque converter and place back on the transmission. This sucks because there are tons of 3.5's for the MDX and the pilot for well under $1,000. I had to buy a new truck (not too broken up about it though) ? I was able to sell this one and the new owner is paying me to replace the engine. I will update as soon as I figure out what happened.
kind of sound like what happened to a Tundra, but to the Tundra the timing belt skipped but everything turned smoothly and now is back up and running.
Had a chance to pull the spark plugs, to see whether any cylinders are full of oil or coolant?
I figured out the problem!!!! The timing belt snapped and wrapped around the crank pulley so tight it stop the engine. I had the local Honda dealer check it out for me when it first happened and they said there were a few guys hanging from a breaker bar on the crankshaft. They said it was seized up tight. They also said they check the timing belt and it was fine. At least there is peace of mind knowing the bottom and is secure.
So you had a timing belt failure with 15k on it? any ideas what caused it to go bad so fast?
Wow. 15k miles on a Honda branded replacement belt is not good. Maybe some thing caused the belt to fail prematurely? It's nice the bottom end is good..I was envisioning busted slugs and possible bent rods, damaged heads etc from a lock up like that.
Thanks for the update on this.
Thanks for the update on this.
Doesn't sound like he's been able to rule out head damage (bent valves maybe).
But it's good to know it's all top end damage potential.
My opinion; somebody screwed the pooch doing the TB replacement. That's one of the few benefits of having it done professionally..... you "may" be able to get it repaired for free if something goes wrong after the fact.
Oh well.... sometimes crap happens. Little bumps in life.....
But it's good to know it's all top end damage potential.
My opinion; somebody screwed the pooch doing the TB replacement. That's one of the few benefits of having it done professionally..... you "may" be able to get it repaired for free if something goes wrong after the fact.
Oh well.... sometimes crap happens. Little bumps in life.....
I guess it's kind of a bummer you pulled the engine & tranny out. At least you'll be able to the Timing Belt job easier.
In all likelihood you will need to do some head work from valve to piston contact. Dealer should be shot! What a bunch of idiots!
You might be covered under the parts warranty from the TB work. It's probably worth seeing if you can get some consideration from them, anyway.
Chip H.
Chip H.
I think every timing belt failure that has been posted in this forum has been after the original one has been changed out.
I believe that is true. Gives one pause for thought when it comes time to change the belt. At least Honda changed the Civic over to a timing chain in 2006.
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