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Yep, it's normal. I had it on my Ridgeline and under the exact same conditions, even just brake torque it in gear at like 1200 RPM's and it rears its ugly head. I traded in the RL for a Passport and guess what it does the same thing just a bit more muted from inside the cabin. I was frustrated and obsessed with the noise and it kind of ruined my ownership experience with the Ridgeline. Now that I know it's a normal noise I hope that you can get past this otherwise you will be miserable. In the 4 years I had my RL the noise never worsened.

Well I guess that’s good to know. I just have never had an engine in a vehicle so noisy.
 

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Well I guess that’s good to know. I just have never had an engine in a vehicle so noisy.
This is my 5th Honda V6 all the non DI ones were gems but these DI versions, have the injector clicking, sometimes chirping fuel pumps and this knock that sounds like piston slap or rod knock but my guess is it's not fixable unless it comes from reprogramming the ECU. Then you may think is an engine mount, is it a timing belt tensioner but my take is that it's just the resonance of the engine when under load at low rpm in gear on a warm engine. I've researched it for years and there were some really good MDX videos out there that have since been deleted but the one thing in common is that there was never any resolution. I know it's not VCM because the it occurs outside VCM parameters. Also, my Ridgeline had the 6 Speed and the Passport has the 9 speed so rule out the trans.
 

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This is my 5th Honda V6 all the non DI ones were gems but these DI versions, have the injector clicking, sometimes chirping fuel pumps and this knock that sounds like piston slap or rod knock but my guess is it's not fixable unless it comes from reprogramming the ECU. Then you may think is an engine mount, is it a timing belt tensioner but my take is that it's just the resonance of the engine when under load at low rpm in gear on a warm engine. I've researched it for years and there were some really good MDX videos out there that have since been deleted but the one thing in common is that there was never any resolution. I know it's not VCM because the it occurs outside VCM parameters. Also, my Ridgeline had the 6 Speed and the Passport has the 9 speed so rule out the trans.
I agree with the programming issue maybe. My wife drives a 2019 Pilot and it does have the noise but not near the noise of the ridgeline. I am guessing the ridgeline is louder due to less sound deadening...her Pilot cabin is overall much quieter than my truck cabin in general! It does in fact sound just like piston slap. I am almost wondering if under load at low RPM if the timing is over retarded and causing the issue, which may in fact be part of the VCM. It is interesting to note that after my research on the odyssey forum there have been multiple attempts to fix by dealers including replacement of the short block and main bearings/shaft bearings and the noise still persists. I guess it’s just something I am going to have to learn to love like I do the rest of truck!
 

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I’m a new member but a longtime Ridgeline owner.
My 2008 Ridgeline RT was the best vehicle I’ve ever owned. 215,000 and never a major issue.
My New 2021 Ridgeline Sport with Roof Rack and Running boards seems to be the perfect replacement.
Unfortunately, with less than 300 miles I’ve noticed a slight engine knock at low rpms, going from a dead stop at slow speeds up hill etc.
Trying to figure out if it’s an engine noise, a vibration, or exhaust related.
I duplicated it for a Honda tech and set up an appointment to have it looked at.
Also, am going to drive another exact model to see if it reacts the same.
I’ve used the ROC website for many years but just recently joined. I have always found the members suggestions to be spot on and helpful.
A second issue seems to be with the roof rack and crossbars. (Possible wind noise or rear tire noise seems excessive).
I will try to remove the crossbars and see if there’s a difference.
Will definitely get my issues documented from the dealer, but appreciate any input from the ROC members.
Thanks
 

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If you're talking about a knock at low rpm (1100 ish) under a light load it's normal. If they open up your engine that could lead to other noises. I say this because I traded in my Ridgeline due to this noise, gripes about rear legroom and seating position, a low brake pedal and great resale value. I got a Passport and it makes the exact same noise in the same spots. It's not the transmission as I went for a 6 speed to a 9 speed. I was obsessed and frustrated with this noise, couldn't get past it, hardly used the radio so I could listen for it. took it to the dealer etc. I suggest you just live with it or you're not going to be a happy camper.

Regarding the wind noise all you can do is look to make sure that the arrows on the crossbars align with the dimples on the roof rails and make sure the rails are oriented properly. I have read some stuff about wrapping the crossbar with a bungee to break up the noise.
 

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If you're talking about a knock at low rpm (1100 ish) under a light load it's normal. If they open up your engine that could lead to other noises. I say this because I traded in my Ridgeline due to this noise, gripes about rear legroom and seating position, a low brake pedal and great resale value. I got a Passport and it makes the exact same noise in the same spots. It's not the transmission as I went for a 6 speed to a 9 speed. I was obsessed and frustrated with this noise, couldn't get past it, hardly used the radio so I could listen for it. took it to the dealer etc. I suggest you just live with it or you're not going to be a happy camper.

Regarding the wind noise all you can do is look to make sure that the arrows on the crossbars align with the dimples on the roof rails and make sure the rails are oriented properly. I have read some stuff about wrapping the crossbar with a bungee to break up the noise.
Thanks for the advice.
You are right about hardly using the radio just to listen for the engine knock.
I moved the roof rails from the dimples to the wide position and the wind noise changed.
Probably will keep the appointment with the dealer and jump through the hoop of doing another test drive, however, I won’t let them crack open the engine (just diagnose).
If nothing comes up I am certain I will be able to put many miles on the new Ridgeline.
Thanks
 

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2021 ridgeline sport (platinum white pearl)
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I’m a new member but a longtime Ridgeline owner.
My 2008 Ridgeline RT was the best vehicle I’ve ever owned. 215,000 and never a major issue.
My New 2021 Ridgeline Sport with Roof Rack and Running boards seems to be the perfect replacement.
Unfortunately, with less than 300 miles I’ve noticed a slight engine knock at low rpms, going from a dead stop at slow speeds up hill etc.
Trying to figure out if it’s an engine noise, a vibration, or exhaust related.
I duplicated it for a Honda tech and set up an appointment to have it looked at.
Also, am going to drive another exact model to see if it reacts the same.
I’ve used the ROC website for many years but just recently joined. I have always found the members suggestions to be spot on and helpful.
A second issue seems to be with the roof rack and crossbars. (Possible wind noise or rear tire noise seems excessive).
I will try to remove the crossbars and see if there’s a difference.
Will definitely get my issues documented from the dealer, but appreciate any input from the ROC members.
Thanks

I have the same 21 sport as you with the roof rack and yes the wind noise went away when I took the cross bars off and as far as the engine knocking you should try getting your gas at a different spot, or ,If you use regular try a full tank of higher octane .I have driven about 7 Hondas over the last 20 years and I only use 92 octane or better and the only time I hear them knocking is when I buy gas at a no name brand gas station or when ever I use regular 87 unleaded fuel. I always do best with( BP-Amoco or Exxon) Just my opinion....
 

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Good to have it documented with the dealer. They told me it was VCM. I gave up and didn't want to insult them as the noise didn't occur during a VCM condition. In the end though at 4 years and 25k miles the noise never worsened but to this day I don't know if it's the high pressure fuel pump, something with the timing gear, motor mounts or just the resonance of the engine. My V6 Accord and 2 other non VCM Odysseys of the past were quiet gems, felt so precise compared to direct injection. The noise never occurred on a cold engine and there were several MDX videos out there with the noise with no resolution. I tried switching oils and maybe it's in my mind but out of Valvoline, Mobil 1 and Penzoil, I thought Penzoil helped a smidge. Super unleaded didn't make a difference. In the Passport it's barely noticeable probably because of better sound insulation.
 

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2021 Ridgeline Sport
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I test drove another ridge WITHOUT a roof rack and was impressed. But the one i bought had a rack. On the way home at higher speeds the cross rail noise drove me crazy, and I moved them more to the front, it was worse! I took the cross rails off, now all is quiet, and the cross rails are for sale!!!
 

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I have the same 21 sport as you with the roof rack and yes the wind noise went away when I took the cross bars off and as far as the engine knocking you should try getting your gas at a different spot, or ,If you use regular try a full tank of higher octane .I have driven about 7 Hondas over the last 20 years and I only use 92 octane or better and the only time I hear them knocking is when I buy gas at a no name brand gas station or when ever I use regular 87 unleaded fuel. I always do best with( BP-Amoco or Exxon) Just my opinion....
Thanks,
Originally, I thought the excessive noise was from my rear tires or splash guards but read other posts and moved the crossbars to the wide position and the noise changed.
I’ll drive a week or so then decide whether to remove the crossbars or live with it.
I‘ll play around with bumping up the octane but will test drive another Ridgeline and most likely decide the slight knock is the nature of the beast.
(maybe I’ll get Honda to bump up the 5/50,000 to 10/100,000)
My 2008 Ridgeline had a torque converter shutter at 48mph. I put 200,000 miles on it and never had an issue (Honda determined it was the nature of the beast on Ridgelines/Pilots of that era.
 

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I test drove another ridge WITHOUT a roof rack and was impressed. But the one i bought had a rack. On the way home at higher speeds the cross rail noise drove me crazy, and I moved them more to the front, it was worse! I took the cross rails off, now all is quiet, and the cross rails are for sale!!!
Thanks,
The roof rack was more decorative than functional for me. I’ll probably end up removing the cross rails and storing them just in case.
 

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I noticed in the last couple of months a knock on stand-still acceleration that got progessivly worse. I have 31000 miles on my truck. I found I could duplicate the noise by power braking and raising the RPM's to between 1000 and 1400. would not make noise when cold or after long trips.Listening with a stethoscope I found the loudest noise from the accessory best tensioner. I got a Honda part and belt, instead it myself. NO change. Took the truck to the dealer ( still under 5 yr-50,000k). They confirmed the noise and conditions. They disassembled down to the timing belt and installed a tensioner shim which made no difference. They contacted Honda Tech-line for advise and were instructed to dissemble as need to remove the oil pan and only the front crank main cap to determine the color code for bearing size. per instructions they ordered new bearing halves, installed them and reassembled everything. I picked the truck up and the noise is GONE! I am speculating that there was a bearing problem with some engines, possibly miss sized. Hope this helps some of you with the same issue.
 

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@FFR 3099, great news, any way you could post your repair invoice as to the procedures/codes they used. You are the only owner I know of on these forums that has had resolution. I'm sure many would like this info to bring to their dealer.
Yes! You are the unicorn! I have spent countless hours researching forums to try and find a resolution to the knock. If you could post a pic of the invoice and service ticket so I could take it to my dealer that would be amazing!
 

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It appears that FFR 3099 only made one lengthy post, and hasn't been back to the forum since ? ? ?
Well that blows since all of the answers I’ve gotten from dealers have been that it’s a normal noise. Although I’m a little bit skeptical that his/her knock may still return. After all mine did not knock until around 500 miles. So who’s to say it will not return for them. At this point I’m wondering if the motor will be just fine with the knock as 14v6 implied or if it will self detonate. Theoretically it would be nice to have it fixed as I would feel much better about the reliability of the engine.
 

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@FFR 3099, great news, any way you could post your repair invoice as to the procedures/codes they used. You are the only owner I know of on these forums that has had resolution. I'm sure many would like this info to bring to their dealer.
Sorry guys, I'm not too computer savvy. I will tell you that I was really impressed that the dealer stuck with trying to find the problem. They worked at it for 3 days before calling Honda Techline. Techline is obviously aware of this knock because, according to the shop foreman, they told him right away what to do. My truck had green bearing halves on the front crank journal. I'm speculating that Honda had a bad batch or somewhere there was a mixup before assembly, as they were replaced with new green bearing halves. Part # 13323-SJ6-A01 (upper) and 13343-R9P-A01 (lower). I will also add that Honda uses a color system for bearing sizes, not all engines are the same AND may vary from other journals in the SAME engine. This is not new, Honda has done this for years. I was a Dealer parts manager for 16 years and then was the owner of a Honda (only) repair shop for 12 years. It is rare for lower end problems on Honda engines, hence my theory on a production or mix up during assembly.
 

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One of our Hondas has this lower end knock sound almost since it was new. Light throttle, lower speeds. Sounds like it's going to throw a rod. Tech line had us plasti-gauge the rods & mains to minimum tolerance. Made no difference. I don't know how I could sell the car, no one would believe me that it's "Normal".
The car? '94 Civic EX, with 192 K miles, now. Never had any engine problems.
 

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One of our Hondas has this lower end knock sound almost since it was new. Light throttle, lower speeds. Sounds like it's going to throw a rod. Tech line had us plasti-gauge the rods & mains to minimum tolerance. Made no difference. I don't know how I could sell the car, no one would believe me that it's "Normal".
The car? '94 Civic EX, with 192 K miles, now. Never had any engine problems.
Sorry guys, I'm not too computer savvy. I will tell you that I was really impressed that the dealer stuck with trying to find the problem. They worked at it for 3 days before calling Honda Techline. Techline is obviously aware of this knock because, according to the shop foreman, they told him right away what to do. My truck had green bearing halves on the front crank journal. I'm speculating that Honda had a bad batch or somewhere there was a mixup before assembly, as they were replaced with new green bearing halves. Part # 13323-SJ6-A01 (upper) and 13343-R9P-A01 (lower). I will also add that Honda uses a color system for bearing sizes, not all engines are the same AND may vary from other journals in the SAME engine. This is not new, Honda has done this for years. I was a Dealer parts manager for 16 years and then was the owner of a Honda (only) repair shop for 12 years. It is rare for lower end problems on Honda engines, hence my theory on a production or mix up during assembly.
The second dealer I went to actually told me that Honda is aware of the knock and is looking for a solution. Of course this was last year. I’m wondering if Honda is going to wait for customers to come in and complain and fix on that basis rather than issue a recall or even a TSB. I bet replacing main bearing caps would be an expensive recall for them. I’m assuming most people would never hear the knock and if they did would assume normal operation. I’m calling soon to make a trip to the dealer for mine and I’ll post back.
 
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