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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Hello everyone, I apologize if this is on another thread but I did a search and went through previous post and couldn't find anything like this. I have a 2007 Ridgeline RTL with about 190k miles and since about 170k when I'm accelerating and I reach about 30-50mph the engine revs start to slightly pulsate. I also notice it when I'm going up a slight incline going around 50mph. You really can't feel the engine pulsing but you can see it on the tach and hear it in the exhaust note. I had my local Honda dealer look at it and they said I have a bad tach, and I didn't have it replaced cause they couldn't answers me if its just a bad gauge then why can I hear it in the exhaust.

As I stated that I have 190k miles and am about to do my second timing belt and other items that have broken over time and i want to know what could be causing this to add to my list or if there is anything else you all recommend changing while I'm at it let me know. Bellow is all I'm ordering so far for my truck, my current total is at $920.

2 Cams Seals 91213-R70-A02
1 Timing Belt 14400-RCA-A01
1 Timing Adjuster 14510-RCA-A01
1 Timing Tensioner 14520-RCA-A01
1 Timing Idler 14550-RCA-A01
1 Crank Seal 91214-RCA-A01
1 Water Pump 19200-RDV-J01
1 Serpentine Belt 56992-RV0-A05
1 PCV Valve 17130-RCA-A02
1 Hood Holder 91504-SJC-A00
6 Spark Plugs 9807B-5517W
1 Thermostat 19301-P8E-A10
1 Holder Rod 91504-SJC-A00
1 Pulley Tensioner 31180-RCA-A02
1 Pulley Idler 31190-RCA-A02
6 Coils 30520-PVJ-A01
1 Air Vent Passenger 7620-SJC-A01ZB
1 Passenger Fog Light 08V31-SJC-1M011
1 Steering Wheel 78501-SJC-A93ZA
 

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2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
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Many have had this "issue" before. In the older 06-08 RL's, the truck will pulsate or surge a few hundred RPM's while cruising at 40-50mph or so. It's almost as if the torque converter is locking and unlocking or the truck can't figure out if it wants to be in 4th or 5th gear. I notice this in my 07 mostly when my transmission fluid is old. A drain and fill of the fluid will usually make the problem go away or diminish greatly. I think it's likely a programming issue dealing with the fluid line pressure at those load demands. How has your fluid maintenance been? How old is the transmission fluid and transfer case gear oil? Have you ever done a full changeover to the fully synthetic DW-1 transmission fluid?
 
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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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I agree with Ian, Start with a complete Fluid Change, Then if you want to Drop a $1000 on your G1, I'm sure it will appreciate it, of course, it could be totaled by some texting idiot the very next day. ;)

DNF chart.JPG
ATF Replacement.JPG
ATF_Check.jpg

Check this Post: Re: What do you DIY? for a recent discussion on fluid changes and recent prices, and you'd need to calculate where you are and what your driving style is for the Normal vs Severe Service Schedule.




Coolant Chart.JPG

But if it were me, I'd fix 1 thing at a time or at least group those tasks to what is "related" and drive and enjoy between each task. Tackling that list, Unless you own an Auto Shop, or have nothing but money and free time, could easily be 40 hrs of continuous labor, even for a Honda Technician. I think if I was tearing into that much of the Engine, I'd also look at what "Motor Mounts" I'd be near or could be "In My Way" and just pull them at replace, multiple reports on Motor Mount Failures, Including some of what you describe.



When Doing the Coolant, for the timing belt et. all, you could also do the Radiator to Avoid SMOD. Here's a calculated list to purge contaminates out (ATF) due to SMOD.

With that said, If you haven't already Change the RADIATOR, Upper and Lower Hoses are more than likely needed, Heater Hoses, and possibly the Thermostat.

RAD_ATF_Hoses.JPG Radiator Capture.JPG

If you need to know why on the Radiator see below.
Here are most of the related Radiator and Transmission threads if you haven't found them all.

Happy Reading & Good luck

Radiator Failure @ Cooler Lines

Best Radiator Replacement

Pictures of Corroded/Rusted Radiator Fittings

Radiator Fail on 2006

UOA on ATF

Anatomy of OEM Denso Radiator

Poll(Never Posted) on Radiator/Trans Cooler Solution

Recent Radiator/Transmission SMOD!!!

Radiator comparison: Denso/Spectra/OSC
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you everyone for the great feed back. All my previous maintenance have been handled by a Honda dealer but recently they have seemed more interested in charging me for things that aren't an issue. Last time I wheat they said I needed a new cv boot cause mine what torn and all the grease on as out but when I got it on the lift my father has on his property the all the boots looked perfect. This truck is my daily driver but I just picked up a 2013 accord coupe with 24k mile and can now give my ridgeline some extra care. With the fact I have access to a lift and all the tools I should be able to knock most of this out on my free time. I was going to do all my fluids with my timing belt but I think I may add a new radiator to my list. I got this ridgeline with 96k mile and in all that time I have only had an alternator go out, an ac line go out and had to get my oil pump resealed.


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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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Thank you everyone for the great feed back. All my previous maintenance have been handled by a Honda dealer but recently they have seemed more interested in charging me for things that aren't an issue. Last time I wheat they said I needed a new cv boot cause mine what torn and all the grease on as out but when I got it on the lift my father has on his property the all the boots looked perfect. This truck is my daily driver but I just picked up a 2013 Accord coupe with 24k mile and can now give my Ridgeline some extra care. With the fact I have access to a lift and all the tools I should be able to knock most of this out on my free time. I was going to do all my fluids with my timing belt but I think I may add a new radiator to my list. I got this Ridgeline with 96k mile and in all that time I have only had an alternator go out, an ac line go out and had to get my oil pump resealed.


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I added Engine Mounts, as I realized how much of the engine you were going to be into, it could be nice to "Have them out of the way" and put brand new back. I don't have the PN for them but I could find them, although you did a pretty good job finding PN's on your own.
:nerd:
Good Luck, You'll have a Like New G1 when your done. ;)
 

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2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
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For the record, changing out the coils isn't necessary. They very rarely have any issue at all and shouldn't be of any concern. If you do want to replace them anyways, don't get the el cheapo ones from eBay. Honda genuine parts are the way to go. If you had a 1998 F-150, any coil will work. With today's modern engines and succinct ignition systems, having the coils that were designed for the car is a very good idea.

If I were you, I'd do the radiator now. You're going to lose some tranny fluid in the process anyways, so do that first and then do the transmission fluid. Do four drains and fills of the fluid and drive at least 10 miles or so between each change making sure you exercise every gear including reverse. Clean the magnetic drain plug really well each time. When I did mine, I noticed the gray sludge on the plug was almost non-existent by the third D&F. That meant the system had no free-floating clutch debris in it which is a good sign. I think you'll find that your truck feels A LOT better after you get done with that service.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For the record, changing out the coils isn't necessary. They very rarely have any issue at all and shouldn't be of any concern. If you do want to replace them anyways, don't get the el cheapo ones from eBay. Honda genuine parts are the way to go. If you had a 1998 F-150, any coil will work. With today's modern engines and succinct ignition systems, having the coils that were designed for the car is a very good idea.



If I were you, I'd do the radiator now. You're going to lose some tranny fluid in the process anyways, so do that first and then do the transmission fluid. Do four drains and fills of the fluid and drive at least 10 miles or so between each change making sure you exercise every gear including reverse. Clean the magnetic drain plug really well each time. When I did mine, I noticed the gray sludge on the plug was almost non-existent by the third D&F. That meant the system had no free-floating clutch debris in it which is a good sign. I think you'll find that your truck feels A LOT better after you get done with that service.


Thanks, I always try to stick to OEM parts unless I'm in a pinch like the alternator I changed last year but I'm actually going to get an oem to replace it cause it's makes a rubbing noise at low rpm's. I wanted to replace the coils cause after almost 200k miles it would hurt to have it all done. I alway order my oem parts from majestic Honda. My local dealers don't discount to match them so I rather order what I need and do it on my own.


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Discussion Starter #8
Many have had this "issue" before. In the older 06-08 RL's, the truck will pulsate or surge a few hundred RPM's while cruising at 40-50mph or so. It's almost as if the torque converter is locking and unlocking or the truck can't figure out if it wants to be in 4th or 5th gear. I notice this in my 07 mostly when my transmission fluid is old. A drain and fill of the fluid will usually make the problem go away or diminish greatly. I think it's likely a programming issue dealing with the fluid line pressure at those load demands. How has your fluid maintenance been? How old is the transmission fluid and transfer case gear oil? Have you ever done a full changeover to the fully synthetic DW-1 transmission fluid?


Thanks for the suggestion and I wanted to give an update on how it's doing. I went ahead and changed the transfer case fluid and after about 600 miles I have not notice the pulsating that I first reported. It also fixed another issue that was getting worse the weeks before I did the change. I was getting a hesitation in sudden acceleration situations from a stopped position. It was acting as if the engine would have a slight hesitation or almost as if it was about to stall. This was happening about 3-4 times a day before I did the fluid change and since then, in the first 600 miles, I might have felt it once and just faintly and not as much as before. Thanks again for all the feedback.


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^^ Excellent to hear. I usually change out the transfer case gear oil when I do a tranny fluid drain and fill. Gear oil is cheap and I use a hand pump to get the new fluid in there. I use 75W-90 Valvoline synthetic. It does seem to last a very long time, but for $10 a quart and the ability to get two changes out of one quart, it's a no-brainer to just change out the fluid once every other oil change along with the tranny fluid. I'm glad that fresh fluid has fixed or greatly diminished your issues.
 
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