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I was just wondering if the scan gauge works well for you guys. I have read that some gauges tell you temps and gas mileages and all the extras, how you liking them? i'm trying to see if its worth the extra $$. I do like the mileage feature though. Any tidbits or suggestions would be helpful.
 

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It's an education. You have to learn the significance of all the readings. Water temp is probably one of the most helpful. There are also steps for calculating gas mileage and costs. Instant mpg vs. Trip mileage, vs. Overall average mpg.
You can even watch ignition timing changes under different conditions. Throttle angle and intake air temperature. You can scan for trouble codes and reset the check engine light.
Scangauge II has an X-Gauge function for adding other monitor points.
There are numerous threads on the Scangauge worth reading about.
If you are a gadget and car guy, I think it is worth it.
 

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My RL is about 6 weeks old. From day one I hooked up my scan gauge and the running temp was around 172-185F. Yesterday I noticed a strange thing while going thru the car wash. It peaked at 211F and then within a minute for so dropped back to 175F and stayed their. I've never saw that before. I did not here the fans go on, maybe they did and I did not here them. It this normal for idiling? The temp yesterday was 68F. My prior Tundra would keep a steady temp of 192F, didn't matter how hot or cold it was, if I was towing the boat or not. It was always stay within 2-3 degrees of that temp.
Their is only one way to break in a motor

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I've used this method on 3 motor cycles and 4 cars and two truck (bought new). Each and every vehicle has gotten much better fuel economy (than it was suppose to).

Bottom line is the motor must be run hard under load so the rings will seat right. For those of you who don't believe this google "Yamaha making oil" This is partially do to the engine break in. Many outboard motor owners baby the break in usually the 1st ten hours on the motor. Well its coming back to haunt a lot of them. Their engines are "Making" oil due to the fact the rings are not seating correct.

Just my 2¢
Now you know why you have heat cycle problems. When you understand metallurgy you know the first few heat cycles of the engine are critical. You chose to put yours at an extreme beyond the design intent.

This is probably just a symptom of your abuse. Worse things will happen as time goes on. Head gasket failure, heads warping, bearing wear and a lot of other issues.

Some engines are designed to be run at or near full duty cycle "out of the box" but automobile engines are not.
 

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Read the Moto link from csimo's response. Wow, I have seen these "break in" procedures listed before and never felt the need to try them with the exception of a race motor. Kind of like all of the barrel break in and cleaning methods that are posted all over the web. It's on the web, therefore must be true.
 

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My RL is about 6 weeks old. From day one I hooked up my scan gauge and the running temp was around 172-185F. Yesterday I noticed a strange thing while going thru the car wash. It peaked at 211F and then within a minute for so dropped back to 175F and stayed their. I've never saw that before. I did not here the fans go on, maybe they did and I did not here them. It this normal for idiling? The temp yesterday was 68F. My prior Tundra would keep a steady temp of 192F, didn't matter how hot or cold it was, if I was towing the boat or not. It was always stay within 2-3 degrees of that temp.
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My 2006 Ridgeline runs at around 185F but when in slow traffic or stopped, it goes up quickly so I make sure the AC is on a low temperature and the temperature goes down to normal. I'm nervous about letting it rise to 211F....will it continue to rise or will the fans turn on?...… How high do I let it go before turning the AC on?
I did put a new thermostat in and the temperature is a little more stable now with very little fluctuation. (The old thermostat had scrape marks on the barrel showing that it did stick at times).
My new BMW runs normal at 220F so I'm wondering if everything is OK with my Ridgeline after all….
 

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My 2006 Ridgeline runs at around 185F but when in slow traffic or stopped, it goes up quickly so I make sure the AC is on a low temperature and the temperature goes down to normal. I'm nervous about letting it rise to 211F....will it continue to rise or will the fans turn on?...… How high do I let it go before turning the AC on?
I did put a new thermostat in and the temperature is a little more stable now with very little fluctuation. (The old thermostat had scrape marks on the barrel showing that it did stick at times).
My new BMW runs normal at 220F so I'm wondering if everything is OK with my Ridgeline after all….
Honestly unless something is actually wrong with your Ridge, the cooling system works just fine without any need for behavioral modification on your part. Honda normalizes the temp gauge for a reason; so that gauge watchers don't freak out over the normal temperature fluctuations of the coolant.
Just make sure that you have a properly functioning cooling system and then stop looking at your aftermarket readout.
 

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My 2013, which does have a slightly revised engine compared to yours, runs in the high 170s to low 180s almost all the time. Even when it’s 120 Fahrenheit out. I don’t see it go up above 200 in traffic. The only time it will go that high is when I’m towing in the heat. I don’t necessarily think there’s any cause for concern with the numbers you are seeing. However, when was the last time you changed the coolant or the water pump? Have those services been performed on time?
 

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Damn some of these decade old threads get opened up lately. Good job on the newbs for searching and being relative to the topic.

When I was out and about doing some testing, I have logged coolant temps as high as 203F. However, within a minute of normal driving, it dips to 180~177F. Under normal driving, you should be between 172F to 180F, depending on the ambient temps.

BTW, @FASTFJR , I am scared to click on the link in your signature bud.
 
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