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Honda's recommendations are first oil change when MM is between 0 and 15%, and they will foot the bill if your engine goes south before the powertrain warranty expires.

As a general rule, I don't believe much of what any dealer recommends, but your dealer is right on in this case.

Also be aware that the original oil has some molybdenum deposits that have washed off of the engine parts from initial assembly. Although there is nothing special about the oil itself, those moly deposits do make it a sort of "break-in oil". That being said, I'm leaving my Initial oil in to at least 15%.
 

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2019 RT Ridgeline ~ Luna Silver
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That's exactly why you shouldn't change the oil until prompted by the Maintenance Minder. :)

If you want the engine to break in properly and timely and last hundreds of thousands of miles, follow the Maintnence Minder which was programmed by the engineers who designed the engine - not by owners, mechanics, or companies that sell engine oil.
Love that footer link... 😂
Continuing the scorched 🔥 earth 🌍campaign with a Honda. 😁
I get it... you’ve been through allot w them. I probably would feel the same... 👍🏻
 

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15% vs 1year.
This brings up a good point. Even before COVID, I worked from home and have only driven about 3,300 miles since last September. I doubt I will be anywhere close to 15% by the time my one year anniversary comes around.

Aren’t we supposed to change oil at one year if we haven’t hit the mileage.
so if I’m at say 5k-6k miles come September... I’m doing damage to my engine by servicing at one year...?
And Honda may not cover engine damage to to improper break in?
If not.. what about that Moly?

See, this gets deep quick... ?
Opinions...?
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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WTF?
15% oil life left?
Everybody knows that the 1st oil change is critical. Waiting until the oil life meter says 15% is just too long.
Knowledgeable mechanics consistently say 5000 miles is the right time. I have seen too many sludge filled engine top ends where owners waited to 8-10 thousand miles, thinking their oil protection lasted. Perhaps another thousand or two, maybe....
Thoughts?
I do oil changes when the oil life indicator hits 0% and then often drive past that to some extent. Typical oil changes for me are in the 6500-7000 mile range. Here's a pic of the top end of my engine at 120k miles when I had the TB/WP/valve clearance work done.

404429


I dunno. Looks pretty clean to me.
 

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Hate to beat a dead horse.
But I’ll ask again. If I change my oil at the 1year interval and it’s before the 15% And around 5-6k miles, am I not allowing my engine to properly break in. Or engine failure won’t be covered by my warranty? As stated above....??
 

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I would suggest change your oil and filter at/before 1 year. When the MM hits 15%, reset it. You’ll probably be close to 15% anyway. Moving parts in your new motor have “mated together” thousands of miles ago. Kinda makes sense that moving parts will wear/break-in more in the 1st 1K miles than the next 10K miles. Filters don’t catch everything so there are extra “crumbs” from the initial break-in circulating.
 

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I would suggest change your oil and filter at/before 1 year. When the MM hits 15%, reset it. You’ll probably be close to 15% anyway. Moving parts in your new motor have “mated together” thousands of miles ago. Kinda makes sense that moving parts will wear/break-in more in the 1st 1K miles than the next 10K miles. Filters don’t catch everything so there are extra “crumbs” from the initial break-in circulating.
Makes sense. I guess the MM may speed up a little before the year is up. But w 3,300 miles I’m still at 60%.

just asking because all the talk about the breakin moly and the MM 15% rule...
These things are so black n white. Especially in the days of COVID... not allot of miles being driven by those of us that work from home. Which I’m loving! 😎
 

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The MM is based upon algorithms that take into consideration how long API SN or SN+ motor oil will provide adequate protection to moving engine parts under all kinds of driving conditions monitored by a host of engine sensors. Whatever extra "moly" that's in the motor comes from the assembly lube used during initial engine assembly. That assembly lube is quickly washed out of/away from bearing/journal surfaces when the motor is 1st started and pressurized motor oil reaches the bearings/journals. I doubt those algorithms take in to consideration anything special about the initial oil fill.

Me personally, I change the initial factory fill and filter quite early and do not reset the MM. When the MM comes on at 15%, I change oil and filter and then reset the MM and go from there by the MM. I change the 1st time early (new motor), just to get most of the initial break-in crumbs out, that the filter has not caught. But that's just me.🤷‍♂️ I've never heard of an early oil/filter change shortening engine life.👌
 

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I guess the MM may speed up a little before the year is up.
Only the 2018+ Odyssey and 2019+ RDX include time as a factor in the calculated oil life. It will be added to future models as they are fully redesigned. In these applications, the MM doesn't "speed up" - time doesn't become a factor until 365 days after the last reset at which point the indicated oil life will instantly fall to 15%. If you change your oil today and never drive the vehicle, the indicated oil life will remain at 100% for a year.
 

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Yep I got it... 👍🏻
My point was really, not all situations are the same. And if others don’t understand the “one year rule” in the schedule they “may be scared into pushing past the yearly mark without service trying to reach that magical 15%....“. Since ours doesn’t have that programming logic built in.

Not all situations are the same...
And by servicing your engine at 4-6k miles when you hit the one year mark, you will not be hurting your engine or warranty. Honda has clearly stated to change the oil at one year if you haven’t reached the MM.
As Roger stated the newer software has logic to track both time and oils %.
 

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SFB syndrome. :eek: (Sh_t For Brains)

SFB syndrome will defy logic every time.:(
That doesn't tell me what caused the sludge. No oil changes? Ever?
 

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Your 2 questions..........remove the question marks, they become statements. I simply Binged “oil sludge” images. Hundreds of examples of SFB syndrome.
 

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Got to love a good old oil change thread.

As far as I know, there is no such thing as "break in oil". There is assembly lube, and I suppose it's possible for the assembly lube to get mixed with the oil and give it a few PPM more moly, but that's pretty sketchy science.

Here's the Cliff's Notes version on oil and oil changing. Use the correct oil for your car, and change it at regular intervals. Either follow the MM, which is fine, or change it at 3000 or 5000 or 10,000...whatever you want. Some oil manufacturers claim they can go 25,000 miles between oil changes. I'm more old school, so I'd never go that long.

Changing your oil more often won't hurt anything but your wallet. I do my own oil changes and I use that opportunity to inspect everything while I'm under the vehicle. Fluids are the "blood" of your vehicle. If you think only engine oil matters, you're wrong. You also need to change transmission fluid, differential fluid, rear end fluid, brake fluid, and coolant. If you change fluids religiously, most modern cars will run to 200,000 miles easily.
 

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There is no break in oil.
I changed my factory fill at 200 miles.
Changed it two more times before I hit 2000.
I do not reset the Moron Minder (MM)
Throwing money away? Yeah. I can do that.
Will change every 5000 now after.
It is an engineering impossibility that there is NO engine wear in the first 2000 miles,
I get the small metal particles out of the there. Why would you let them stay in there and grind your cylinder walls for 9000 miles? Because it has "Molly" in it? I will bet my engine will have a better compression ratio at 70,000 miles than those that keep the factory fill in for the first 9000 miles.
 
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