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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
To summarize the problem:

Ridgelines built before September 2005 do not unlock all the doors when the vehicle is placed into Park. Only the drivers door unlocks. Sometime in September 2005 (VIN unknown) Honda rectified this by fitting a new Relay / Fuse Box Assembly - part# 38200-SJC-A02 for RT and 38200-SJC-A12 for RTS/RTL. (The original parts are A01 & A11). The new part is around $24, which is surprising when you see how substantial it is (post#7 below).{edit} After initially being available at this price, Honda increased the price considerably, to as much as $95 in some cases.{/edit}

The resolution:

These instructions are for the RTL but should essentially be the same for the RT and RTS bar the number of connectors.

I purchased the A12 unit for my RTL. Order to receipt was about 3 weeks.
The swap out of old unit for the new took approx 2 hours. On a difficultly rating from 1 to 10, I'd put this at a 7 not so much because its complicated, which it isn't really, but more because it really tests your patience as you struggle to press in the little tabs on the connectors while at the same time try to pull them out of their receivers. I sustained my first injury 20 minutes in when I developed a blood blister on the tip of my index finger.

Pictures are below, but here are the basic steps:

Unlock the doors and open the passenger window as you will probably want to run an inspection lamp into the vehicle. Even better if you have a 'head' lamp.

Move the drivers seat all the way backwards. You will not be able to do this after you disconnect the battery if you have a power seat.

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, followed by the positive. Make sure that the cables cannot reconnect themselves. I place a plastic aerosol lid over each terminal to prevent accidental reconnection.

Wait at least 3 minutes before touching anything on the fuse assembly. This is recommended by the Service Manual because there are SRS components wired through this box.

Remove the petrol flap release knob. It just slides forwards and off.

Remove the drivers sill panel. It just unclips fairly easily, starting at the front edge.

Remove the kick panel (there's no need to remove the hood release knob). There's a black plug just above the dead-pedal. Pry that off and then the whole panel can be unclipped.

Remove the lower dash panel. This isn't mentioned in the Service Manual but makes access much easier. You have to remove the dash side panel and one screw before the lower panel can be unclipped. You have to release any harness connections too as well as the ambient air intake.

Unbolt the Parking Brake release handle. Again, this isn't mentioned but makes access easier. It just has a single 12mm bolt.

Sounds a lot already, but we're about 15 minutes into the whole project. I took a couple of pictures at this point for reference purposes.

Now you start to release the connectors (9 on the RTL), starting at the middle left, working across to the right. Every socket on the assembly is different so I was not concerned too much about which connector went where. Also, during reassembly the harness just naturally falls to the right place so it's fairly obvious what goes where.

Most of the connectors have a single tab that has to be pushed/squeezed in order to release. Avoid pulling on the cables. There are a couple of yellow connectors where it isn't immediately obvious how they disconnect. They have a spring loaded outer sheath that you have to pull.

Once the front connectors are removed you can remove the two 10mm bolts that secure the unit. One is on the bottom and one upper-left fairly obscured by the harness. Use a long extension to get to this one.

Now remove the two green connectors from the leftside of the unit and unhook the cable tie by squeezing the back of it with needle-nosed pliers. You can now pull the unit off the body and start removing the connectors from the back (7 on the RTL). There are also two connectors that are clipped to the top of the assembly and one on the right-hand side. To remove these, insert a small screw driver between the connector body and the assembly body and twist slightly. The connector should slide off. If you look at the new assembly you can figure out how they are attached. The twisting breaks the connector tab on the old assembly. There is another cable tie on the right side of the assemble that has to be unclipped by squeezing the back of it.

One hour in and the whole unit can be removed.

The only noticable difference between the two units is a marking on the front. The old says 'HONDA >PP-GF15< M1'. The new says '...M2'. {Edit} - Some folk have reported that their A12 unit said M1 on the plastic moulding so this may not signify anything. The barcode on at least two A12 units installed to date by myself and another member had 'JXB' in large type, whereas the A11 unit had something else. {/edit}

My replacement unit came with fuses already fitted. I checked to make sure they matched the existing ones as not all the sockets are populated. I removed the relays by gently prying at the bottom of them. Do not pull them out by gripping the body as damage could result.

After transferring the relays to the new unit, re-assembly is a reversal of the steps above. The upper left mounting bolt is very difficult to refit and took about 15 minutes and a lot of swearing. Total reassembly time was about an hour.

Once everything was refitted and the battery reconnected, fingers were crossed to see if it was all worth it. With the vehicle in park, and the ignition on, but engine not running, I pressed the unlock switch and held for 5 seconds until a click was heard, and then another 5 seconds until a second click was heard. Then I started the vehicle, moved it into drive, locked the doors, and then moved it back to park. Viola!, all doors unlocked. :D I'm a happy fellow (or at least my passengers will be).
 

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Good Lord Lingered_I,
You De Man!! My hats off to you dude. Great photos too! Thank you very much. The part is fairly cheap compared to the amount of labor the dealer has to charge for R&R of this piece. Awesome post good buddy...:D

Ron (5S Dude)
 

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My local dealer in Hawaii was unable to order it, Does anyone know of an alternate source for this unit . I have the RTL and would love to get this problem fixed. Thanks for the great pictures Lingered_I, :) :D
 

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sonny415 said:
My local dealer in Hawaii was unable to order it, Does anyone know of an alternate source for this unit . I have the RTL and would love to get this problem fixed. Thanks for the great pictures Lingered_I, :) :D
Hey Sonny, Sure would be nice to see photos from you! Cindy & I are planning to go to your home town for our 50th next year. Maybe I can drop off some custom door sills for your Ridge and you can show us the "good (hot) spots":p

Ron (5S Dude)
 

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Anyone else receive the "corrected" owners manual from Honda in the mail this week? I think rather than cover labor or parts they want the early buyers to suck it up with the re-write that states only the driver door unlocks. I guess printing and mailing new books is cheaper than installing parts.

Not good customer service though.
 

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Nicely done Lingered!!

Does your driver door window still Auto up/down? I just read in another post a few days ago that this function has to be reprogrammed after disconnecting the battery. If memory serves me, (fat chance) it was something like:

- roll window all the way down.
- roll the window all the way up, and continue pressing the button for another 5 seconds.


Reminds me of the time I had to replace the fuse block in a 69 GMC van because the windshield had leaked and all the fuses and terminals were slowly turning to a rusty blob. I bought a generic block with enough spots and proceeded to remove, label, trim and strip every wire entering the old box, then attach them all to the new block. I was very proud to find everything still worked! :) Things were simpler then, not near the number of electrical systems.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
farmguy said:
Nicely done Lingered!! Does your driver door window still Auto up/down?
Thanks. I had to reprogram the window, as well as input the Navi and Radio security codes.
With curiosity getting the better of me, I've pried the lid off the old unit. There's a 'regular' green printed circuit board on top of 6 layers of thick printed circuitry. It's quite ingenious. No wiring whatsoever. I was expecting to see an eprom or somekind of flash memory that would account for the functionality change but there's only one chip that looks like a CPU and it's soldered directly to the board.
 

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Very nice post. As one who had the dealer do it, I am very impressed.
BTW ain't it nice for all the doors to unlock and lock? :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
sonny415 said:
My local dealer in Hawaii was unable to order it, Does anyone know of an alternate source for this unit . I have the RTL and would love to get this problem fixed. Thanks for the great pictures Lingered_I, :) :D
Your dealer can't order it? How come? I got mine from Lisa Edwards at www.motorcarshonda.com out of Cleveland Heights, Ohio. Her contact info is under the Dealers link at the top of the page. She was very helpful.
 

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Nicely done Lingered.

You almost have me convinced to do it myself, unless my wonderful SM is willing to install the part for free.
 

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WOW!! outstanding work and nicely done.
That is a complected bunch of electronics:rolleyes:
that unit costs $50 Cndn here but still if you consider the technology and complex circuit, the price is peanuts.
I have to replace ignition and control modules in HVAC field sometimes and most of them are not even half as complex as this one but cost 20 times the price. amazing how the cost of some items work out in different fields.
shhh.....don't tell Honda.:)
 

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I'm a bit confused. I have an early model (04/05 build). My owners manual says I can program it to "all unlock". Forgive my naivete but how the heck do they not accept responsibility for this not working. The salesman at the dealer told me I could reprogram it before I bought it, and even showed me the page in the owners manual (p.80). I've only gotten around to actually doing it today and it (as you all know) doesn't work.

How can this not be their responsibility?

I'll contact my dealer tomorrow and let you know the excuse.
 

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Mine is a 08 build and my manual states that only the drivers door will unlock.
 
L

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Stuigi said:
I'm a bit confused. I have an early model (04/05 build). My owners manual says I can program it to "all unlock". Forgive my naivete but how the heck do they not accept responsibility for this not working. The salesman at the dealer told me I could reprogram it before I bought it, and even showed me the page in the owners manual (p.80). I've only gotten around to actually doing it today and it (as you all know) doesn't work.

How can this not be their responsibility?

I'll contact my dealer tomorrow and let you know the excuse.
Welcome to the ROC Stuigi. It seems to me, as I have read about this issue, that most dealers are "covering" the costs. I told my dealer that many others were getting there's for free and it was no issue at all. No questions asked.
They took care of it but I expected it only because Ganley Honda is a phenomenal dealership.
Good Luck.
 

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Great job on the How-to Lingered_I!! I recall that exact location (standing on my head with my arms bending in painful ways to reach) when wiring fog lights into that box. I recall your posting installing fogs. Am I correct in assuming that the wiring from the fogs is transparrent to this box install?
Thanks again and great job!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
LadyRidge said:
Welcome to the ROC Stuigi. It seems to me, as I have read about this issue, that most dealers are "covering" the costs. I told my dealer that many others were getting there's for free and it was no issue at all. No questions asked.
They took care of it but I expected it only because Ganley Honda is a phenomenal dealership.
Good Luck.
The folk I bought the unit off said it should be covered under warranty, but what the heck, I like to tinker.
 

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So, should I do this myself or try to have the local _tealer install for free... How should I actually go about doing this because if the dealer would do it I would have them perform this, but if not, then I also don't mind tinkering a bit...:D
 

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rtboy1961 said:
I would like to say > good Job. I was going to install mine but the Honda dealer said it was under warranty and covered the part and labor for me.:) I did have to program it for them because they did not know how .
Same thing with me. Somehow it was covered and no charge, and I showed them how. The service guy was in my truck scratching his head and looking through my manual. I told him he would need one from a newer truck if he wanted to find out how to make all of them unlock. Works like a charm now.

Very happy and no more pushing the button.
 
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