[Jhawker23]

I had to replace both inner CV boots. I have a 2" lift which makes that removal and re-install of the axle a real PIA. It required unbolting the tie rod and a lot of pushing the strut out of the way to get the axle into the hub. Obviously the movement of the strut was pretty small, a lot of effort for 3-4" of clearance to the right.

Prior to the replacement, the steering was responsive and I would say it was in the middle of the scale between an affordable sports coupe and an '88 Buick. Now, I would say it's moved down the scale about 3/4 of the way to the Buick. It's not pulling just floating feel in the steering. Makes me really nervous rolling around in a marshmallow.

What do you think? Can removing the tie
rod end from the arm and re-attaching cause such a problem? The ends weren't turned either direction.


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[cccbock1]

Sway bar end links and mounts ok? If disconnected or broken, it will give you marshmallow.

 

[Jhawker23]

Ill give it a look this morning. Any specific diagnostics to run thorough? There's nothing visibly wrong.


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[S.T.U.V]

Did you have a alignment done? It is probably all in your head but...moving anything suspension/ steering wise can change the feeling. Especially being new grease in the cv's, Moving the balljoints...etc

 

[Jhawker23]

Thanks, probably very true on what's in my head. I did just find that if I reverse with the wheel to the right, there's a clunk and randomly on a turn I hear a clunk. I'm not seeing a specific replicable pattern.


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[Jhawker23]

I took a look tonight found a few things.

1) Both FR and FL axles are showing wear marks where they've been in contact with the sway bar links. I'm not sure how much space should be between them but the scientific measurement is a squeezed finger.

2) The front links weren't lose nor made noise when I tested for movement. But, when I grabbed the sway bar about a 1/3 way in, I had about a 1/2" of play left and right. It's difficult to quantify the pressure I applied to move it. It wasn't flimsy movement but I didn't force anything, just a very minimal effort.

3) Checked the rear and the RL link's bottom nut was nearly off and obviously the link was loose and noisy.

When re-installing the axles, we really had to pull on the strut for a while (for clearance) trying to get that knuckle back together because of the pressure of the lift.

Should the sway bar be that close to the axle?

 

[Carsmak]

That doesn't sound right, and that's both too lose, and far to close.

Do you have access to the FSM, either online or in printed form?

 

[speedlever]

Hmm. Maybe it's your lift? Or maybe the aftermarket stab links? (Moog?)

I don't have a good shot showing the clearance on a stock setup, but here's a pic showing the relative position of the stab link to the axle on my 2008.

As I recall, Joe had a clearance problem when attempting to use Moog stab links to replace the OEMs.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...scussions/44356-lesson-aftermarket-parts.html

 

[Jhawker23]

That doesn't sound right, and that's both too lose, and far to close.



Do you have access to the FSM, either online or in printed form?

Thanks, I'll check the torque on the nuts. And yes, I did just get the FSM a few days ago. I really appreciate all the practical info and real experience since this is complicated by the lift. That has really been the difference in working on the problem and identifying what should be where because of it.


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[Jhawker23]

Hmm. Maybe it's your lift? Or maybe the aftermarket stab links? (Moog?)

I don't have a good shot showing the clearance on a stock setup, but here's a pic showing the relative position of the stab link to the axle on my 2008.

As I recall, Joe had a clearance problem when attempting to use Moog stab links to replace the EOMs.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...scussions/44356-lesson-aftermarket-parts.html

It looks like it would be about the same position if you had the lift. I believe the Traxa (Truxxx) kit is the only one to include new sway bar links. I have a message out to them to see if this is a problem they've seen before.

What's interesting is that I was concerned the pulling back of the strut to insert the axle but that was pulling the exact opposite direction. Would it need the front wheels off the ground to really see if it's loose with the shake by hand test or would that be visible now? Also, does the small amount of play in the sway bar back and forth sound odd?

The bushings look okay but after 137k miles they're feeling pretty dry and hard, but no tearing.


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[speedlever]

It looks like it would be about the same position if you had the lift. I believe the Traxa (Truxxx) kit is the only one to include new sway bar links. I have a message out to them to see if this is a problem they've seen before.

What's interesting is that I was concerned the pulling back of the strut to insert the axle but that was pulling the exact opposite direction. Would it need the front wheels off the ground to really see if it's loose with the shake by hand test or would that be visible now? Also, does the small amount of play in the sway bar back and forth sound odd?

The bushings look okay but after 137k miles they're feeling pretty dry and hard, but no tearing.


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Sorry. I do not know the answer to your questions. But yeah, I would think you would need to elevate it to check for shake by hand.

 

[Jhawker23]

Hmm. Maybe it's your lift? Or maybe the aftermarket stab links? (Moog?)

I don't have a good shot showing the clearance on a stock setup, but here's a pic showing the relative position of the stab link to the axle on my 2008.

As I recall, Joe had a clearance problem when attempting to use Moog stab links to replace the OEMs.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...scussions/44356-lesson-aftermarket-parts.html

Traxda confirmed they use Moog links, 2" short, designed for the CRV. So that raises an interesting question, if the other manufacturers don't change links, would I replace these with OEM links or stay with those 2" shorter?

 

[S.T.U.V]

Both my axles have slight rub marks from the endlinks. And I have a lot of side to side movement of my swaybar. I replaced the swar bar bushings and it tightened it up until they wore in and it started moving back and forth again. I was thinking welding a edge around the sway bar on the inside of the bushings to prevent to much movement.

I think in stock form the sway bar moves freely as well but being as we have the lift. The axles are closer to the endlinks.

 

[Jhawker23]

You're the man, thanks for the continued help. It's good to hear your experience with the lift. According to Traxda they've never heard of hitting the axle.


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[cccbock1]

Both my axles have slight rub marks from the endlinks. And I have a lot of side to side movement of my swaybar. I replaced the swar bar bushings and it tightened it up until they wore in and it started moving back and forth again. I was thinking welding a edge around the sway bar on the inside of the bushings to prevent to much movement.

I think in stock form the sway bar moves freely as well but being as we have the lift. The axles are closer to the endlinks.

Have been know to install shaft collars on swaybars to keep them from moving. Also consider poly bushings.

McMaster-Carr

 

[S.T.U.V]

You're the man, thanks for the continued help. It's good to hear your experience with the lift. According to Traxda they've never heard of hitting the axle.


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NP. I am not sure what could prevent or cause the contact. Probably any slight movement in the lower arm or subframe

 

[Jhawker23]

Have been know to install shaft collars on swaybars to keep them from moving. Also consider poly bushings.



McMaster-Carr

Great, can you tell me which of them you use? That's quite a list. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll get them on the way when I know what worked for you.


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[Jhawker23]

NP. I am not sure what could prevent or cause the contact. Probably any slight movement in the lower arm or subframe

The lower control arm bushings could probably be replaced... More than probably, they do. This has been quite the snowballing project. Guess I'm due after 9 years and 135k with not a single problem.


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[S.T.U.V]

The lower control arm bushings could probably be replaced... More than probably, they do. This has been quite the snowballing project. Guess I'm due after 9 years and 135k with not a single problem.


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Thats about when I replaced mine. Got some MOOG ones off rockauto. And as far as the shaft collars go you would need to measure the swaybar thickness first to see which one you would need.