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2017 RTS 2WD. Have started noticing at lower RPMs 1000 - 1500, in lower gears, that I will feel the truck fluctuate in terms of power. Its consistent / like you are tapping your foot on the accelerator in a quick, repetitive manner. When it occurs the tach needle literally bounces; not wildely, but enough that it is easy to see. Also, you can feel the rhythmic pulse of power gain and loss. It will only stop when you speed up /raise the RPMs (usually over 1500).

Has anyone experienced anything like this? I have a mechanic that I trust, but am wondering if I should take it to Honda.

Many thanks for any insight.

Steven
 

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Hate to admit this one but I have felt this. Not regularly nor is it recreatable for me. At this point it’s one of those “ignore that” issue till it gets worse.

Keep us updated.

It’s still under warranty. I’d take it to h. I get scared of anyone else touching it and voiding the warranty
 

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Same symptom. I fear taking it to the dealer as I'm at 43K. But I'm going to have to as it is now pretty much every time I drive it for me. Regardless of Eco mode.
 

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I have experienced 4-5 second rev hang when at or near full throttle merging onto the highway or when passing using heavy throttle then backing off. It's annoying but it's programmed into the ECU for emissions purposes supposedly. The FWD Ridgeline much more often also will experience a delay or significant drop in power/rev's when heavier throttle is applied through or out of a corner.
 

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The lack of power out of the corner seems to be by design. My Accord does it too. As for the other issue, I would also check the Pilot forum and see if there were any ECU reprogramming TSB's. Unless the dealer knows of the issue like fuel injectors or torque converter that may be a tough one for them to fix without guidance from Honda.
 

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2017 RTS 2WD. Have started noticing at lower RPMs 1000 - 1500, in lower gears, that I will feel the truck fluctuate in terms of power. Its consistent / like you are tapping your foot on the accelerator in a quick, repetitive manner. When it occurs the tach needle literally bounces; not wildely, but enough that it is easy to see. Also, you can feel the rhythmic pulse of power gain and loss. It will only stop when you speed up /raise the RPMs (usually over 1500).

Has anyone experienced anything like this? I have a mechanic that I trust, but am wondering if I should take it to Honda.

Many thanks for any insight.

Steven
Does it happen when engine is cold or it only happens after engine warms up? If it's latter, then I would say it might be VCM related.
 

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Low cost things to look at are: the air filter, clean the throttle body, PCV and MAF sensor. Look at your LT and ST fuel trims if you have a scanner. A small vacuum leak will show up at low RPMS and tend to go away at high speed.

Good Luck and God bless
 

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Mine displayed the same symptom, return to the dealer. They will diagnose and should find you need a code upgrade and trans fluid exchange. It is part of the Transmission Judder TSB here: https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/185-2g-problems-fixes-tsb-s/180625-tsb-17-025-17-026-judder-torque-converter-lock-up-clutch.html

I assumed it was intake or air flow related also, it was not. Trust me, it was a sudden onset of a considerable notice in lower gear/RPM when trying to speed up (most united during 35-45 increases and often 55-65 speed increases) and did it when manually driving or on cruise. The Dealer charged me nothing and I dropped it off unannounced.

I did not mention the TSB I read here because I assumed the "Judder" was some other symptom until this. "Judder" makes one think there is some noise coming from the trans. Let us know how it turns out.

My BE is a 2017 and had 44k when I dropped it off.
 

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2017 RTL-T, I developed the same issue. Seems to occur right around 1500 rpm and when you have steady pressure on the gas pedal. You can notice the tach needle bouncing slightly. Any solutions?
 

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My experience with a 2018 BE is similar. I'll be driving in a 55-70mph zone (top gear, in other words, say 1500-2300rpm). Cruise control and eco mode on. Periodically, I get a noticeable rumble through the vehicle, the green lights deactivate, and the tach visibly bounces up and down by maybe 200rpm. After 3-5 seconds, the truck "kicks" me forward in the seat very gently and the green lights come back up. It seems to mostly occur when I have gone over a hill, the cruise control backs off, and then comes back on at the bottom of the hill - that moment when it comes back on almost invariably causes the bounce and rumble. It feels very much like a torque converter lockup problem.

Separately, I used to have the 55mph rattle that others have complained about, which seems to have been tied in to the VCM TSB... this problem self-resolved at some point. It's possible that when I did my 10,000mi oil change it was addressed without my knowledge by the dealership, but I don't remember exactly when it stopped.

I'm planning on taking it to the dealership Thanksgiving week due to both this issue and a terrible hood flutter. I'll follow up based on that interaction.
 

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VCM side effects? Do any of you have the VCM disabled?

If it is a VCM issue and need to disable the VCM, you need to check out VCMuzzler II, VCM Tuner, or S-VCM threads.
 

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I have noticed the same problem on my 17 BE, which I've only had for about a month. Primarily at lower RPM (1500-2000) and lower speeds (30-40) the throttle surges and the RPM jumps. I usually have to kick the throttle to make it stop and smooth out, but you can feel the truck surging and slowing as this happens.

I have not seen any posts on here pointing to this as a common problem or 'normal' so I guess it's time to take it in to the dealer.

MP
 

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VCM side effects? Do any of you have the VCM disabled?

If it is a VCM issue and need to disable the VCM, you need to check out VCMuzzler II, VCM Tuner, or S-VCM threads.
I've been paying close attention to both torque converter and VCM threads, and my problem doesn't cleanly fit into either bucket at face value. Because I'm seeing a tach bounce at steady speed, it strongly implies to me that I've got transmission slippage of some kind, but the shudder TSBs don't indicate that I should have the problem at 70+ mph. My earlier problem was likely VCM-related but as it seems resolved now, less of a concern. I never installed a muzzler.
 

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I had the torque shudder at highway speeds including when trying to pass at higher speeds than 75pmh. Take it in to your dealer.
 

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I had the same issue on my 2017 (low VIN so it was an early one off the line) and it was resolved by a transmission software update and multiple flushes of the transmission.
 

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Same here. Feathering throtle on low rpms and the truck begins to "jump". Tack needle shows about 300 rpm bounce range.
About to turn 34k miles.
I hate talking to service managers. They've been trained to talk to soccer mom's. I can do a Ducati valve job. I know WTF I'm talking about.
It's going to be frustrating. I can see it coming.
 

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Same here. Feathering throtle on low rpms and the truck begins to "jump". Tack needle shows about 300 rpm bounce range.
About to turn 34k miles.
I hate talking to service managers. They've been trained to talk to soccer mom's. I can do a Ducati valve job. I know WTF I'm talking about.
It's going to be frustrating. I can see it coming.
I hear ya - it gets pretty frustrating but on the upside at least you'll know when you're getting BSed and will be able to counter

As someone who has worked in a technical role for over 20 years I can usually give decent information as to the symptoms and even potential causes but its amazing how many times people either just plain don't know and won't admit it (so they give you a load of BS) or worse still lie to inflate the problem so they can rob you for the "repair"

I've had a few instances of this. My most recent was when a creak started in the front of my last vehicle (slight knock when turning, never on straights - it was either CV joints failing or top strut bearings) so I drop it off at this new "specialist" place in town for repair. I meet the owner and explain what's going on. Next day I call to see how things are progressing and he goes off telling me how there's a bad blow out on the exhaust and a list of other "issues" so I say I`ll swing by.

When I get there I ask if the problem the car was brought in for is repaired. Lots of awkward looks and not much response. They tell me the tech couldnt replicate the issue so I ask if I can take him out for a drive as I'm sure I can replicate it. The tech was a nice guy and I was able to replicate it quite quickly, he went on to say that none of the info I had mentioned to the owner was passed on to him (he seemed kind of pissed about that - I sense it wasn't the first time) hence why he didnt really know what to look for.

So I go find the owner. I explain that we had been able to replicate the issue using the same info I had given him the previous day, he looks sheepish as he knows he hadn't passed the info on to the tech. I then ask what the other issues were that he mentioned on the phone. He explains that the car was very loud when first started, I then asked if it got quieter about a minute later, he thinks for a second and then says it did. I explain that'll be due to a combination of the secondary cat bypass pipes (nice performance/sound upgrade) and the secondary air injection pumps that run for around a minute when the car was first fired up - totally normal for this model of vehicle.

I go on to say that I was under the car a few days earlier and didnt notice any signs of an exhaust blowout (black soot at a joint etc) but I'm happy to be proved wrong if he wants to put it on the lift and show me as there should be tell tale signs if the blow out was a bad as he described. I could see a look of horror on his face - he knew he`d been caught out lying. He was really apologetic and I wrapped things up. Suffice to say I was pretty pissed and he could tell. Ultimately I traded the vehicle a few days later for my Black Edition.

Another instance was when my steering went heavy. Took it to my local independent for some other work as asked him to have a look. We talked about the servotronic system and I asked if he could check if the transducer on the rack was getting power as a first step even if it meant fitting a bypass temporarily somewhere just so it can be eliminated. He says that wouldn't be wise as it can mess up Canbus signals and cause all sorts of havoc. Fair enough - he's the expert. When I picked it up he told me he'd checked it out and all signals/pressures were good so I needed a new rack.

I picked up a reconditioned rack as requested and they subsequently fitted it. When I went to pick the car up the owner (who I normally deal with) was on holiday so I deal with his son. I ask if the steering is now as light as before and he tells me it is - great!. So I after I've paid I go fire it up only to find that the steering is exactly the same as before! So I wait for the owner to return and he apologizes but admits he is stumped. He advises to take it to the new dealership that has just opened locally as they have the correct high end scan equipment and he gives me a point of contact who he says is up to speed on the issue.

So I take it there, the service guy he said to speak with had never heard of him much less my issue. So they plug it in and tell me everything seems good (signals/pressure) they then borrow a controller from another vehicle (it looks like a 12V relay but its actually a PCB inside) but no improvement. Then they start to talk about replacing the transducer on the rack but they're not sure it can be purchased separately (from my research it looks like it can't - can only be purchased as part of the rack - figures I saw were in the region of $7K), dealership was to look into it and let me know what they thought was the best path forward - never heard from them again which is most likely due to the project of having to advise on purchasing a $7K part that may not fix the issue........

It got so annoying that I decided to look into it myself, I found a guide online (think it was BorgWarner) and followed that. According to the guide all symptoms pointed to an issue with the power getting to the transducer, so I put in some jumpers and sent 12V (exactly what the original mechanic said not to do) which wasn't getting to the unit. I test the wires for continuity and find one is broken so I follow it back and about a foot from the rack end there is a my broken wire. A quick solder joint later and the steering is like new again. Total expense - couple of hours of my time and a dab of solder/heat shrink.

The thing I always think on after such events is what happens to the average soccer mom type with zero technical skills when they find themselves in such scenarios. I imagine the unscrupulous types have a field day.......
 

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Just wanted to post a follow-up.

The service manager was able to replicate my issue after I took him for a drive. He went back out with the diag laptop, captured data, and sent it to Honda's tech line. Tech line insists that what we're feeling is VCM engagement and there is no trans slippage. They're insisting that the vehicle is operating as expected. Manager was skeptical so he took an Odyssey out and validated that it does the same thing once warm, so he also disabled VCM on my Ridgeline and took it for another drive. The behavior disappeared. Whoever at Honda decided that a five-second rumble and tach bounce on the highway constituted an acceptable VCM experience needs to have their head examined, every other manufacturer I've used with variable cylinder tech has done it in a far more transparent manner (even Dodge, and they're awful).

Solid service experience with Honda of Grand Blanc MI, and I am very pleased with the effort and constant communication demonstrated by the service staff. This one is wholly a corporate problem, nothing wrong with the dealership at all.

Time to invest in a muzzler, I guess.
 
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