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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
NOT talking about the Extra/Tough guard lines. ONLY the Ultra Synthetic/Pro lines.

Yes I understand Fram filters arent the most popular, but from what I can find, the Ultra Synthetic xg7317 and xg9688 are the most economical (cheapest) filter that have wired backing for our filters, which is primarily what I want.

I do my oil changes about every 6-8 weeks as my work and home commute is about 3k miles in 2 months. For work I drive out to west texas where no, its not off road, but the dry conditions and occasional dust storms (sizes of small towns) do happen.

My question:
(Threads and gasket are the same on both 7317 and 9688)
With the physical size of the 9688 bigger than the 7317, would anyone or has anyone used/recommend using the 9688 over the 7317? As of 11-2017 the 9688 ($4.58) filters are actually cheaper than the 7317 ($7.75) right now when purchased in bulk of 6.

Yes, I am also aware that the 7317 is listed as the fiilter for our trucks, but the 9688 are compatible as well.
 

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I can't say that I have any experience with the different size filters you speak of, but I am a habitual Purolator PureOne filter user. I changed the oil in my wife's Highlander a few days ago. I bought the jug of oil from Walmart and actually went to Advance Auto specifically for the PureOne filter because Walmart only carries Fram, Supertech and Mobil 1 filters. The PL14610 filters for our trucks are $6.39 each on Amazon right now. It's actually cheaper if you get six individual filters rather than a pack of 6 (???). I'm always one to look for the best deal on nearly everything to save a few bucks, but I won't compromise on oil filter quality. No matter how much "full synthetic, 2 micron filtering, good for 15,000 miles, super duper amazing" that Fram puts on their filters, I don't trust them whatsoever.
 

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^^ That article further exemplifies why I use and will continue to use the PureOne filters. They are very well-built and are by far the most cost effective high-quality filter. You'll note that not a single Fram product was included.

My truck is a daily driver that sees many starts and stops, lower speed driving, short trips in general and a bit of high-speed highway driving. The PureOne characteristics are perfect for my type of driving. I also use nothing but synthetic oil in my truck. When the day comes that I am fortunate enough to purchase my performance vehicle, I will either step up to the Purolator Boss filter or possibly the Royal Purple, AMSOIL or WIX filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I understand the skeptics with using Fram. It could be all in my head, but I want a filter with wired backing (which the Pro Synthetic FPS7317 has). Ive seen several tear down videos with Fram, and I can understand the fear with the extra/tough guard filters with the cardboard endcaps. The Pro synthetic FPS7317 from Fram, are built VERY differently. Attached youtube video link of its teardown below. I have looked at the Purolators before, I just wished they had the wired backing I was looking for. Even the Boss grade doesnt have wired backing--- if it did I would probably have picked the Boss. Yes, I realize my reasoning may be flawed, but its what I'm looking for.

 

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You have to do what you feel is best for your truck. We can all offer advice and our personal stories here, but, in the end, you make the decision. With how frequently you change your oil (looks to be about every 2500-3000 miles) and the type of long-distance highway driving, I don't think you'll ever see any negative effects of using either of the Fram filters you mentioned. One big question is are you using synthetic oil? If so, even in the dusty conditions of west Texas, there is absolutely no reason for you to be changing oil so often. 5000 mile OCI's are more than acceptable or you can simply let the maintenance minder tell you when the truck needs its oil changed. If anything, changing your engine air filter often would be the most important thing in dusty conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I understand your reasoning as well. I’m now using Castrol GTX Magnatec at the moment (group 3 Oil from what I’ve read, even though it says it’s ‘full synthetic’). I’m on my 3rd Oil Change this year so far, approaching my 4th in a couple weeks (2nd week of December I’ll cross 5k since last Change). I was using Chevron Supreme Conventional, hence the 3k intervals. My truck is currently at 106k miles, so this time around I might go to the 5K interval. I guess I’ll just stick to the 7317 instead of the 9688. Yeah I’m using the K&N reusable air and cabin filter, I’ve only cleaned it once so far this year, and aside from tree leaves some how getting in there, they both looked ok. Thanks for feedback!
 

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Sounds like you're doing everything right. Sort of splitting hairs with these things, I guess. You're using quality oil and, most importantly, changing it frequently. I use Castrol synthetic in my wife's Highlander and haven't had an issue at all. Most all name brand synthetics are pretty good these days as long as you don't try to stretch the change intervals to 10,000+ miles. I don't care what it says on the bottle - changing the oil at reasonable intervals is vital. Your oil filter choice, once again, is not as important as changing it regularly is. You're not putting any exorbitant abuse on your truck and the Fram filters should work just fine. I've had the K&N reusable filters before and wasn't really a huge fan - especially of the oiling part. But, again, to each his own. I use simple paper replacement filters that have a higher filtration rate than the K&N and are a fraction of the cost. I changed them about once every 18 months or so. It would take me about 6-7 years of paper filters to equal the cost of one K&N reusable. Neither of us is "doing it wrong", but it's just our preferences. We're doing the maintenance that is key to long life for these trucks and that is most important.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I dont think I'll ever go past 7500 miles between OCI, i'd be too paranoid to let it go on that long.The K&N are only because I'm driving through miles of dusty areas and horribly ravaged roadkill (its hasnt really helped the smell, but i like the design). Yeah its probably all in my head, but i like the wired backing on the K&N cabin and air Filters. Yes they are pricey, but i dont like the cheaper paper/card board stuff. I like Castrol products, my dad used them for years and the gtx magnatec are priced very nicely at walmart ($17.88/5qt as of this writing) for group3 'synthetic'.
 

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FWIW, this is how I approach filtration:
I want better filtration. :)

There’s plenty of SAE-published work that shows that cleaner oil leads to longer life; that is simply not in dispute. The way you get clean oil is through filtration and sealing, of everything. NOTE: This does not indicate that excellent filtration makes it easier to get to, say, 150k miles than poor filtration. It means that with excellent filtration you’ll get to, say, 500k rather than 150 (or 350 or whatever).

Air filtration keeps the most dirt out, which includes making sure the entire intake tract is properly sealed. Oil filler cap & dipstick(s) are important, as is using a clean towel or rag when checking fluids.

I have multi-pass filtration data (ISO4548-12) on the XG7317 specifically down to 10 microns, and it’s a truly excellent filter.

I’ve run a particle count on a motorcycle shared-sump gearbox (with clutch material + gear wear + engine wear) using the TG7317, and the used oil is significantly cleaner than the new out of the same bottles. The XG filter filtration data is even better than the TG.

Fram makes one of the Honda-branded filters to Honda's specs, which specs are radically worse in terms of filtration than the XG.

This all means I run the Fram XG filters. :)

EDIT: As to the 7317 vs. the alternate you found, OP, I see no reason to think the 7317 has inadequate holding capacity, and since I only have hard filtration data on the 7317, I would be skeptical enough about the significant price spread you mention that I'd stick with the 7317.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
FWIW, this is how I approach filtration:
I want better filtration. :)

There’s plenty of SAE-published work that shows that cleaner oil leads to longer life; that is simply not in dispute. The way you get clean oil is through filtration and sealing, of everything. NOTE: This does _not_ indicate that excellent filtration makes it easier to get to, say, 150k miles than poor filtration. It means that with excellent filtration you’ll get to, say, 500k rather than 150 (or 350 or whatever).

Air filtration keeps the most dirt out, which includes making _sure_ the entire intake tract is properly sealed. Oil filler cap & dipstick(s) are important, as is using a clean towel or rag when checking fluids.

I have multi-pass filtration data (ISO4548-12) on the XG7317 specifically down to 10 microns, and it’s a truly excellent filter.

I’ve run a particle count on a motorcycle shared-sump gearbox (with clutch material + gear wear + engine wear) using the XG7317, and the used oil is significantly cleaner than the new out of the same bottles.

Fram makes one of the Honda-branded filters to Honda's specs, which specs are radically worse in terms of filtration than the XG.

This all means I run the Fram XG filters. :)

EDIT: As to the 7317 vs. the alternate you found, OP, I see no reason to think the 7317 has inadequate holding capacity, and since I only have hard filtration data on the 7317, I would be skeptical enough about the significant price spread you mention that I'd stick with the 7317.
Thanks! Yeah I’ve been using the FPS7317, and from what I researched is the same as the XG7317 without the suregrip, and have been really pleased with it.
 

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Curious: What put you on to the FPS vs the XG series? I hadn’t heard of them, and don’t recall having seen them. Do you have a lube shop connection, or just what got you using those?
 

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Discussion Starter #14

That guys youtube thread has a really good video about the FPS7317 (and other tear down of other filters) and its shown to be basically a XG7317 without the sure grip. I was about to buy the XG7317 until I found the FPS7317 on this site https://www.carid.com/fram/pro-synthetic-oil-filter-mpn-fps7317.html for only $5-6 shipped. The same website also sells the XG7317, but they about $8 shipped. So with the difference in savings I decided to go with the FPS7317. Although I would like to have the suregrip feature, I couldnt pass up on the savings.
 

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Ultra synthetic things are here. What you people want to achieve from this filterspoint ? I know you all want to take many filters related products which are not enough for you. Hope all of you want to get best filters for you which i am providing you.
 

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^^ If you are advertising a website where you sell filters (or anything, for that matter), you cannot post advertising in threads without becoming a site sponsor. Mods, can you look into this? I'm NOT clicking on that link for obvious reasons...
 

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Link is safe. Other than going to the site and if you click on the "check price" i don't see any advertising for sale stuff.

Filterspoint, please remember that if you are a vendor and you want to advertise being a vendor that VS has asked us to send you to the Vendor sign up pages. If you want to post personally as you may own a Ridgeline feel free to do that. Just remember though a vendor pays for their advertising.

Steve moderator
 

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The XG9688 cross references to an aftermarket S2K filter for those that want to try it. This is the wix 51334. The factory Kia spin on filter is the same and I can confirm no issues on the wife's 09 Pilot with 175k. Personally, I use the XG7317 as I'm still under extended powertrain warranty on my 11 Ridge. I am a Fram hater and specifically do not recommend them to any of my customers per a factory TSB with a caveat about the Fram Ultra. That's an autistic dive into Bob is the Oil Guy and filtration lol.
 
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