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2007 Black RTL
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I just replaced my front and side engine mounts on my 2007 this week. It wasn't too hard but I wished that I had some extra long wrenches for the bottom two bolts on the front engine mount bracket.

My mounts died within the last two years, around 110K miles, and I had noticed some rough ride issues and occasional clunking. I figured it was my struts but nope.

The front-mount was super cheap and easy to get. They are running $25-40 at this time (probably all re-manufactured). The side mount was more expensive and a little difficult to source at a good price. I got mine for $100 but they are going for $125-$150 (or more at some dealerships). My closest dealership wanted $190 for the front mount and $221 for the side mount, so shop around.

I did each on separate days. First the front mount, then the side mount. Both took 3-4 hours each, mostly because I'm an amateur so I go slow and careful.



For the front mount, I liked drwx's post instructions over rainsb's instructions because removing the fan is easier than removing the battery, tray, starter, and the rest. The only issue is the radiator coolant and you can avoid spilling it all over by just putting a cup or something underneath to catch it when you pull the hose.

I jacked up the engine with a small bottle jack and two short pieces of 2x6 wood to distribute the weight. I only had to jack it up enough to get some of the weight of the frame to pull down against the engine. Front tires were always in contact with the ground. I adjusted this up a bit later when I actually pulled the old front mount out.

First take the air intake out; three clips easy. My clips were brittle and broke but I replaced them with new clips.

Removing the fan requires pulling the radiator hose, removing the two screws at the top, and the obvious electrical connector. I took a 44oz plastic drink cup and cut it so that I could slip it under the hose and when I pulled it off I caught everything without a drip. More fluid came out than what I was expecting, so use a larger cup or maybe even a cut-up 2L plastic soda bottle. A good quality trash bag or plastic sheet could also catch the fluid. Use your imagination on this one. It's easier than it sounds as long as you don't spill fluid everywhere.

Getting the O2 sensor connector disconnected can be difficult. Instead, just remove the clip holding it to the engine by slipping a small flat-head behind it into the clip that holds it to the metal bracket, and slide down. This will give you the room you need, plus it's much easier to get that stupid plug out once it's disconnected from the metal frame clip.

Most of the four bolts holding the mount in place are easy to angle from the top, but the one in the upper-left corner may require a flex joint to get a grip on. Remove all four of these plus the main bolt on the top of the engine mount before you do the front engine mount bracket.

The front engine mount bracket has three bolts. The top is trivial to get out. The bottom two can be a pain if you don't have the right tools. I needed to have some extra long wrenches but mine were a bit short. Having ratchet wrenches might save you time here but I'm not sure there's enough room around the bolt because of the exhaust pipe. Getting these two lower bolts out took up the majority of my time and were the most difficult part.

Adjust jack as needed and the old mount and bracket should come out easily. Putting everything back in is a no-brainer. I didn't have any problems aligning anything.

I don't know why the big front-mount bolt is considered a replacement part. There's nothing really special about it. Slather with lock-tite or double-bolt it.





The side mount didn't involve any crawling around under the vehicle, except to jack it up just a little bit.

All of those electrical connectors and cable clips are a pain in the back. Be sure to double check them when re-assembling and try to remember the order you took it apart in, because some of the cables need to be routed over/under the right parts for everything to fit together. I strongly recommend wearing gloves and long sleeves here to save yourself from scrapes and cuts.

Just keep removing stuff until you have clear access. The AC coolant line will always be in the way, but it's easy enough to work around.

The business of removing the mount and the mount bracket is trivial compared to gaining access by moving all of the electrical junk. I did have to let my jack down a little bit because I had it too high, but the vast majority of the time was just removing and reinstalling all of the electrical connectors, cable clips, and laying it all in the correct order.





Recommended parts and tools you want to make sure you have, beyond the obvious and the basics:

A 24" 3/8 or 1/2 wrench extension to reach down to the front mount from overhead.

A 18" 3/8 or 1/2 wrench extension to reach down to the side mount from overhead.

Plastic clips to replace those which you might remove from the air intake and electrical cable bundles. Mine were brittle and broke. Good thing I had replacements ready to go.

A flex/universal joint for that upper-left bolt holding the front mount in.

Extra long 14mm wrenches for those two lower bolts on the front engine mount bracket have the potential to be a time saver.



Previous discussions I found helpful:


 

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