Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 68 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
275 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Part 2, Speaker Installation:

Below you can see what the adapter rings and wiring harnesses look like from Crutchfield. I removed the long rounded screw brackets (2 per ring) from the rings and used the remaining 3 shorter ones to mount them.


1) Drill new holes in adapter rings; Since the speaker mounting holes in the speaker adapters appear to have been sized for a smaller speaker (the speaker ring covered the holes) I placed the speakers over the rings and marked where I would need to drill new holes to mount the speaker to the adapter. I lined them up so all 4 holes would miss the area where the smaller speaker mounting holes were located to ensure structural integrity of the ring. The mounting screws that came with the Infinity speakers were too long (mounting rings are .5” thick and the screws are 1” and would not fit inside the speaker hole in the door) for this application so if this is the case with you, you will need shorter screws.

2) Prior to removing the stock speaker I placed tape on 4 sides and using a straight edge marked where they crossed the center of the speaker (picture “a”) to make sure I was at least close in x and y. If you look at the door panel you removed (Front Door Speaker Upgrade How-To pt 1, “Door Disassembly” step 4), you’ll see that there is a specific place for the speaker to be located in order to line up with this panel (not sure perfect has to be the answer, but closer is better).

3) I then mounted the speaker to the adapter ring (using 2 of the smaller .5” screws I mentioned you would need in step 1), placed the ring with speaker mounted in the hole in the door and marked where the holes need to be drilled in door to hold the adapter in place (picture “b”). Before you reply, "Hey, the speaker isn't centered in the picture!"...the speaker is just sitting in the opening, that’s why the center of the speaker is below the two centerlines on the tape in y though you’ll find that there is not quite enough slop to get it quite high enough. NOTE: I mounted the speaker to the adaptor ring prior to marking adapter ring holes because there wasn’t much slop between the basket of the speaker and the sides of the hole in the door. I wanted to ensure it would fit THE FIRST TIME. Also, be sure when the drill bit goes through the door your speaker wires aren’t in the way on the other side.

4) Picture “c” shows the holes I drilled in the door to accept the supplied adapter ring screws.

5) Then it was time to plug the connector of the supplied wiring harness into the harness connector in the door and plug the clips on the other end onto the speaker terminals. After this I mounted the adapter ring with speaker attached to the door using the mounting ring screws. Picture “d” shows the speaker mounted in its new home! NOTE: after I connected the speaker harness to the connecter in the door I wrapped some soft foam around the connectors and taped it in place so the plastic wouldn’t be banging or vibrating around inside the door.

6) I then tested the speaker to ensure it is working and turned it up a bit to make sure nothing was vibrating before putting the door back together.

7) Final step prior to reinstalling the various door parts was to pop all white circular clips off that stayed on the door and slide them back in their locations on the door panel. NOTE: you can see the clips on various pictures below. The close-up shots of the speaker show to the left the top clip hole with a white clip and the hole at the bottom left without a clip (still on panel).

8) Follow the steps in reverse for reassembly of the door panel taking care not to cross thread any screws. NOTE: when reattaching the cable to the door pull, put the round right angle part into the hole first. Second, snap the arm around the cable, then push the green grommet back into the holder on the back of the pull assembly. To get the door lock button to feed back through the hole in the door panel, I tucked a loop of string through the door lock hole in the panel and hooked it around the lock pull and as I slid the door panel back on I pulled out on the lock button to guide it into the hole.

My Sound Opinion:

As I hear it, the overall fidelity of the system with this simple front door speaker upgrade is dramatically improved. The sound is much more “open” and “spacious”. The “muddy” sound of the stock speakers has been replaced by a much cleaner, crisper sound with more mid and high frequencies present which makes it easier to distinguish various subtleties in the music. With the music I listen to I used to EQ the system with the sub at +1, Lows at +2 and highs up at +3 to try to find high-end. Now I find all the crisp highs I need with the High EQ flat to +1. I’d like to next replace the rear door speakers as well. This appears to be very similar to the front doors with some screw and part locations changed (sail panels at back of windows, pulls further front…) While polishing my truck over the weekend I had all windows down and music playing. I found a very good test of fidelity between Infinity’s and stock was to simply stand at the front window catching the sound from the opposite door speaker, then move to the back window and catch the adjacent rear stock speaker. NO COMPARISON.

BOTTOM LINE: I would say that if you are bothered by the lack of fidelity in the stock system, have a couple tools to do the job and are inclined to do this sort of job patiently so you don’t scratch up your new truck or break anything…it is well worth the time, effort and money spent to perform this upgrade.

Thanks to csimo for pioneering this effort giving us our first look at the "sub par" stock speakers. This was the deal sealer for me, seeing what my ears have been telling me since day 1. CHANGE THESE SPEAKERS!!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Nice job jch!
This is high on my priority list for the Ridge.
It's nice to have some instructions laid out like this.
I always think I'm going to break something going in blind.
Remember when you could just unscrew the speaker cover and swap 'em out?
That was good.
Thanks for the posts! :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,881 Posts
Awesome post jch, great photos too! about how much time did your install require?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Don't have good ears for sound, but this is my thoughts to a tee:

“muddy” sound of the stock speakers drive me insane.

Pretty bad my Mustangs sound better ! :eek:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,825 Posts
Nice write-up! Thanks.

jch said:
7) Final step prior to reinstalling the various door parts was to pop all white circular clips off that stayed on the door and slide them back in their locations on the door panel. NOTE: you can see the clips on various pictures below. The close-up shots of the speaker show to the left the top clip hole with a white clip and the hole at the bottom left without a clip (still on panel).
Was any damage done to the door panel where the clips stayed in the door instead of popping out as they are supposed to do?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Great work. I am clueless on this stuff but I followed your directions and now I have wonderful sound. What a difference the 6012's are.

Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
Thanks fishnbanjo for the info. Great now just have to decide if I can live with the loss of volume or is this only with some and I have a 50/50 chance of it happening to me...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
JCH,

I installed my 6012's last night and the sound is terrific. This mod is well worth the time. The muddiness of the stock speakers is gone and well worth $100. I ordered from Crutchfield, which include the mounting ring and wiring adapter. Speakers can probably be found cheaper elsewhere but Crutchfield's ease of use and customer service are worth it.

The first speaker took me about 2 hours to do, most of it worrying about messing up my truck. Once I knew the drill, the second took a half hour.

Thanks for the excellent instructions. Ken

I have the following suggestions for improvements:

I was able to disconnect all the wiring from door panels, but it is difficult as the connectors are apparently designed for people who have tiny steel pincers for fingers. I wiggled them off with flat head screwdrivers. Someone to hold the door panel while you putz with this would be helpful.

To remove the old speakers, wedge a flat head screw driver between the speaker frame and door metal at the very top of the speaker, and press down vertically to release a metal spring attachment. Pull the top of the speaker away from the door and then lift the whole thing vertically.

Your idea of locating the center of the old speaker with marks on masking tape was good one. However in practice the wiggle room for speakers within the hole in the door is so minimal I think it would be difficult to get it wrong. I used tape on the first speaker, skipped it on the second.

To attach new speakers, I simply drilled though 3 of the 4 speaker mounting points into the plastic of the spacer then into door metal. The top mount point landed on the empty slot in the door that held old speaker, so to secure the top I made use of one of the 3 tabs on the mounting ring to drill and install a screw.

None of the mounting screws included were of any use. I have plenty screw stock laying around and found substitutes. I think they were #10 pan head 1" long. Phillips screw heads are better so you lessen the chance of jambing a screw driver in the new speakers!

The part 1 instructions are in the Mods section, while Part 2 is in Electronics; should be together. Ultimately, perhaps these could be refined and re-added as a sticky article??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
I too just did the install of the 6012is. Photos and directions were very helpful. Easy to do and yes, the fidelity is greatly improved.
Have either of you done the rear doors? Do the same Infinity speakers fit?
Now if we can just find someone who has changed out the stock sub with something that fits in the existing box and also sounds better.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,334 Posts
It is highly unlikely anyone will successfuly improve the factory sub by replacing the woofer inside it. Pictures of it disassembled show it is a ported system. These kinds of systems require specific tuning (box volume, port diameter and length) to the woofer driver. Finding another woofer that will work with that box is highly unlikely. If it weren't made of relatively thin plastic it might tempting to try to remove the port and seal it. A sealed box doesn't require such careful tuning. However a sealed system generates pressure and the cabinet would have to be tightly sealed to work correctly. The thin plastic will also vibrate with the signals. It really won't work.

Maybe someone with very good cabinet making skills could build an entirely new subwoofer to fit in the same space. But it will be hard to make it that thin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,648 Posts
I would really like to see someone weld together an aluminum sub box. Apply sound deadening to it and weld rods as braces inside the box. That would be sweet. If my welding skills were better, I'd do it. Just for the heck of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,334 Posts
I actually thought about trying to build a unique wood box to fit in that space. Pioneer, Morel, Sonicraft and a few other brands make very shallow woofers. But I'm not sure I can get .75 cu ft. of internal volume in a cabinet back there. I have not yet removed the rear seat to check. I imagine a box that is trapezoid shaped from a side perspective.

Welded aluminum would be very interesting. But not very repeatable! And most people who weld as a hobby can't weld aluminum, right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,648 Posts
There's actually quite a bit of space behind the seat. Just not enough contiguous space. The rear sliding window motor and seat belt winder get in the way. Come to think of it, a long narrow enclosure along the bottom is possible.
 
1 - 20 of 68 Posts
Top