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i am doing that side now, I am also doing a CV axle replacement since I already have the arm off. Having a helluva time getting the axle back on,
What kind of irregularities like fitment?
Well I finally finished it at 3:00AM ! Just one thing that I didnt finish was a bolt going to the rearward vertical bracket of the lower control arm. Got it half way through the threaded part but for the life of me could not get it to line up with the other, forward hole so I just left it there. Going to take it to a mechanic with a lift this week and see if they can line it up and tighten it for me. Otherwise I test drove it and it rode great.
 

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The best way to install the lower control arm, from what I found, was to install the Vertical first, Horizontal second, and the balljoint last. The video did help a lot for me (same one that @eurban posted).

The irregularities were on the passenger side control arm around the balljoint area. For a stock brake rotor, this will not be evident, but the rotors I run are 52mm hat height (compared to 47.3mm on the OEM) and thus the control arm started to make contact with the rotor. You should not see this issue on yours, even if the control arm has irregularities. I saved the old OEM control arms so I could press in the bushings and ball joints in the future.
 

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The best way to install the lower control arm, from what I found, was to install the Vertical first, Horizontal second, and the balljoint last. The video did help a lot for me (same one that @eurban posted).

The irregularities were on the passenger side control arm around the balljoint area. For a stock brake rotor, this will not be evident, but the rotors I run are 52mm hat height (compared to 47.3mm on the OEM) and thus the control arm started to make contact with the rotor. You should not see this issue on yours, even if the control arm has irregularities. I saved the old OEM control arms so I could press in the bushings and ball joints in the future.
Thats interesting... so the difference in the grade of part, is yours is warranted for 3 years mine is limited lifetime and mine had a grease fitting, otherwise the same.
 

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Thats interesting... so the difference in the grade of part, is yours is warranted for 3 years mine is limited lifetime and mine had a grease fitting, otherwise the same.
My Balljoint is also a grease fitting.

According to Mevotech, the Original Grade (the one I have) comes with a 5-year 60,000mi warranty (whichever comes first)
However, the Supreme lineup gets a limited lifetime Warranty (upgraded as of June 2013).

I fixed mine with an angle grinder and ground off about 2mm of the leading edge and protected it with anti-rust and rubberized coating.

Reading more about the Supreme vs Original grade is that the Original grade uses OEM style components and dimensions. However, the Supreme lineup uses upgraded components such as bearings and joints, along with thicker part dimensions and longer flanges/bolts. What this implies is that the parts are new cast and it makes sense why mine had such imperfections.
Again, 99.99% of the members here will NOT face any issues with replacing it, I just encountered it as I run taller hat rotor.
 

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Im glad i took it in to the mechanic, the bolt was only holding together by friction it coul dhave fallen out. The Control arm was bent. He had to take it out bend it back and then install it the right way, obviously my way was incorrect. He said you have to remove spindle and the wheel assembly to get it out of the way then do the vertical , horizontal and lastly ball joint attachments in that order. Boy I got lucky only cost me $43.
 

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I did not remove the spindle, tie rods or axles.

I was able to change just the control arms by itself. Also, the control arms are cast, they do not bend, they would just crack. Where did he say it was bent?

At least you got it all squared out.
 

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I did the other side ( Driver's side) today and it went much quicker and easier. This time I was sure to follow Blue's procedures, i.e. ( "Remove wheels and disconnect end link (sway bar to strut connector) at the top connection. (Allen key and 17mm wrench I recall). This allows for easier installation of new control arms... trust me!!! ") Thank you Blue! To make things a bit more complex I was replacing the front CV Axle at the same time. So I took the spindle off. This made it even easier to get the Arm off and back on again. What a difference taking that end link off! The ball joint separation took quite a few whacks with a 4lb Wilton short handle sledge but it separated this time with no real difficulty.
Thanks guys for your suggestions and sharing your experience, couldnt have done this nor even try to attempt this without your encouragement. This is why folks come to this forum and participate. Great place. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all!
 
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