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Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
4,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Traditionally the J35 without VCM are not prone to oil burning and a properly maintained engine would not require the addition of Oil catch cans.

Note: Anytime someone modifies their engine with non OEM accessory, they assume the risk of voiding their vehicle's mfgr's warranty and possibly damaging the vehicle if proper care is not taken. By following these suggestions, you are at your own risk. Illustration provided below are from my 2010 Ridgeline RT

Definition: An oil catch tank (oil catch can) is a device that is fitted into the cam/crank case ventilation system (PCV) on a car. Installing an oil catch tank (can) aims to reduce the amount of oil vapors re-circulated into the intake of the engine.

Ridgeline: There are two different valve cover designs on the Generation 1 Ridgeline.
'06-'08: PCV Valve was on the bottom left of the front valve cover facing the radiator while the port was on top left facing the power steering pump reservoir.
'09-'14: PCV valve is on the top right of the front valve cover facing the battery while the port is on the top left facing the power steering fluid reservoir.
Unlike older vehicles, the PCV valve does not reside on the block, but on the valve cover and gets vented directly into the intake manifold.

  • Appropriate size drill bits (multiple)
  • Electric drill
  • Appropriate size sheet metal screw
  • Primer/rust inhibitor
  • Appropriate size screw bits
  • Box cutter or a hose cutter
  • Pliers
  • Any brand two port oil catch can with 3/8" inlet and outlet port (Sporacingrts baffled 2-port catch can used)
  • Any brand two port oil catch can with 1/2" inlet and outlet port (Ruien 0046 baffled catch can used) - OPTIONAL for the breather
  • OEM hose clamps (from OEM hoses) or Spring type hose clamps or Fuel line screw type hose clamps (worm gear type is last resort)
  • 5-Feet of 3/8" rubber braided hose (Fuel line or PCV)
  • 5 Feet of 1/2" rubber braided hose (Fuel line or PCV)
  • 1/2" Brass hose coupler (eg. Auveco 423 Barbed hose coupler)
  • Capful of WD40
NOTE: Oil catch cans range from $15 to $400 and by principle they attempt to do the same thing. For a daily driver with an unmodified engine, lower price oil catch cans would suffice.

  • Remove the PCV hose from the front valve cover to the intake manifold and secure the hose clamps for later use
  • Remove the breather hose from the intake ducting and the rear valve cover
  • You may also wish to remove the hard lines and if you plan to do so, use an appropriate size braided rubber coolant hose (5/16") to custom route the coolant from the block to the throttle body.
  • Familiarize the purchased catch cans and install the ports according to the instructions supplied
  • Locate a serviceable location for both catch cans that is not intrusive or obstructs engine movement.
  • Drill pilot holes in the selected location and follow it up with appropriate size drill bit
  • Use anti-rust or primer on the drilled holes
  • Mock up the required length of hoses based on the catch can locations and cut to length
  • Apply a thin coat of WD40 on the catch can ports and the inside of their respective rubber braided hoses to slip them on easily. do the same for the valve cover and manifold ports
  • Connect the 3/8" hoses to the front valve cover PCV port, catch can and intake manifold. Secure all four hose ends with hose clamps
  • Aecure the catch can to the mounting location.
  • Insert the 1/2" brass hose coupler to the intake runner and secure it with a clamp
  • connect the 1/2" hoses to the second oil catch can and connect the ends to the breather port on the rear valve cover and the other to the brass coupler on the intake securing all hose ends with hose clamps
  • Secure the oil catch can to the mounting location and you are done.
((Click on pictures to enlarge))


NOTE: DO NOT CONNECT the rear bank and front bank valve cover ports using a 3-port oil catch can. If you do so, you will experience a howling/whistling noise from your engine bay as the rear bank port experiences a negative pressure (Vacuum) while the PCV in the front experiences a positive pressure. If you had'nt changed your PCV in the last 50,000 miles, you may want to do so during this modification.

Reason why I added oil catch cans.

When i was inspecting my Throttle body, I noticed some deposits on the butterfly valve. I had a suspicion that since I never replaced my PCV valve (228.5K miles), I must be burning some oil. I performed this modification when I adjusted the valved and changed all the gaskets and spark plugs. Below are the images of the rear side of the throttle body (Manifold side) and the lower intake runners. I had the opportunity to disassemble the valve covers, throttle body (from the IM), intake manifold and power washed with degreaser to ensure everything was clean. I also took the liberty to paint the intake manifold and TB with black high temp paint while the Intake manifold cover and the valve covers were painted with black crinkle paint.


2014 Sport
3,759 Posts
Nice Job! Thanks for the detailed write up Smuf!

It would be interesting to see what my 14's (45kmiles) throttle body looks like to compare. I would speculate that its still pretty clean.

This is not a mod that is high on my list but if I had a GenII I might consider it.

Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
4,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I checked my catch cans yesterday afternoon and no trace of anything in there. So as long as the PCV system is kept up to date, i would imagine the engine will be healthy.

Below are some pictures of how my PCV valve, valve covers and lower intake runners leading to the intake valves looked.
  • The PCV valve, though came out with no issues and I could still hear the ball movement (when shaking), I truly believe it was way too long overdue for replacement. This is a $6 part that I wish I had changed at 100K mile. Took 45 seconds to change it.
  • The Bank #2 (radiator side) Valve cover was totally filthy, to a point the whole inside of the cover was caked with 'sludge' essentially. Had to soak it in engine degreaser for 30+hrs.
  • Bank #1 (Firewall side) was rather good looking, but had quite a buildup on the left side (cam-gear side)
  • Thanks to port fuel injection, the back of the valves and the immediate area of the intake port were clean. However, the lower runners, that did not see fuel spray, were coated in this blackish sludge. This was on all 6 runners. This build up was easier to remove than the valve covers
Amazingly I did not have (nor do I have now) any oil leaks anywhere. This has to be the First car I have owned over 100K miles that did not leak oil anywhere. Crazy! Crazy good!


Moral of the exercise is; check your PCV valve and also keep an eye on the rockers when adding oil. If one chooses to change the PCV valve every 3 years, go for it. I surely will do this at every 50,000 miles on my '19 Odyssey (and I am about halfway point), and luckily the ones for the G1, G2 and my G5 Odyssey are the same.

167 Posts
Thank you for the great writeup.

SInce you aren't finding any oil in the cans, would you suggest to change the PCV valve on a 50,000 mile interval and call it good? Or at least omit the breather can portion? That seems like overkill. Also, on a 2006 Ridge can I change the PCV valve only without much hassle? Lastly, I assume the baffles in the cans are supposed to help pull the contaminates. How restrictive are the baffles? Any chance the cans are too restrictive for this application?

Again, thanks for the nice detailed writeup of your project. We are actually discussing this very matter on a motorcycle forum I frequent.

167 Posts
Also, what was your method to clean the intake tracts without dropping nasty crap onto the valves (and risk dropping it into the cylinders?)

Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
4,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also, what was your method to clean the intake tracts without dropping nasty crap onto the valves (and risk dropping it into the cylinders?)
I used a cloth soaked in carb cleaner and cleaned it out. Then took my shop vac with a 'home made' extension to suck up any debris.

Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
4,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
UPDATE: 08/30/2019

The first install was July 7, 2019 and it is almost two months since the install.
Yesterday I opened up the catch cans to inspect and Bank #2 (radiator side w/PCV) had some oil collected on the bottom. Bank #1, firewall side that gets fed to the intake tubing, had none.

I do not believe this to be alarming, but since it is an older engine with 230K miles on the motor, I cannot confirm if this is normal in a normal engine (fairly new). Once I inspect my '19 Odyssey in a couple of weeks, I will update to be more relevant for folks with the G2. I installed a catch can in my Odyssey on 8/11/2019, just on the PCV side.

Below are some pictures (click to enlarge)


@fresnoridgeline , I just realized I never fully addressed your concern.

After by update from above, I would say you can skip the Bank #1 if you want. I only added a catch can to that side as the inner portion of the Throttle Body was covered in black soot. Honestly, you can skip it. Thus I never added one to my '19 Odyssey.
As far as restrictiveness; I do not know how to measure it without having it on a flow bench. I presume, many of the expensive catch cans use similar design as the low end ones, the pressure drop across the filter would be negligible.
Your '06 PCV should be on the Bank #2 valve cover closer to the crank pulley side. Ease of change should be similar to my '10.
Motorcycles do rev high, considerably high, and not sure what the crank pressures are, I am unable to make any recommendations.

Premium Member
730 Posts
I don't feel that there is any need to install a catch can on the firewall side. If you get oil here there is something really wrong. ;) That is where the fresh air is drawn into the valve cover through the intake tube. The place you need to put a catch can is between the valve cover and the vacuum of the intake manifold.

I regularly get a tablespoon of hydrocarbons in my can on a 2-3 month basis. Winter months you get more fluids, not so much oil as condensation form the temperature changes. I live north with cold winters.

by GhostYK1, on Flickr

Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
4,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ghosty, you do not count. You got a modified engine :) :) :)

Ironically, the catch can you use, looks very similar to mine. including the placement of that 'dipstick'.

Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
4,585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
UPDATE: 10/08/2019

Removed the catcah from the intake tract and replaced it with a straight hose, similar to OEM.

Below is the fluid in the catchcan hooked up to the PCV system. I roughly drive 1100 miles a month. The temperature outside was around 54F so the contents are a bit coagulated.
NOTE: The quantity is about 3/4 of a teaspoon and is an accumulation from the date of install (07/07/2019); so 3 months and 3300miles approx

<< click to enlarge >>
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