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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I figured that I should move my build thread over from the Intro thread.



This is how she looks in her winter trim.


by GhostYK1, on Flickr

PIAA 4000K headlights and Yellow fogs, combined they are a huge improvement over stock.



Current setup;

Interior

Stock


Interior Electronics

Stock


Exterior

BakFlip Cover


by GhostYK1, on Flickr


Wheels/Tires & Suspension

Winter = Stock 17's w/Michelin All Seasons

Summer = TSW Velencia 20" x 9.5" ET-40 w/255/50/R20 Michelin Premier LTX tires




Engine

CAI w/3.5" Tubing
Stock MAF Sensor
Stock 3.5" MAF Housing
9" x 5" x 6" K&N Filter
6" x 3" Velocity Stack



70mm Acura ZDX Throttle Body




by GhostYK1, on Flickr

Port matched J35Z5 Intake Manifold





A set of BNIB OEM camshafts ground by Web Cam Inc. with a Bisimoto Engineering Stage 2 Street/Strip Profile.




Exhaust

RV6-P Pre-cat Delete
RV6-P J-Pipe
Modified 2.5" I/O Magnaflow High flow Catalytic Converter
Borla 2.5" Cat Back Exhaust






by GhostYK1, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Future Mods

Current parts that I have to install

Exterior

Lamin-X headlight covers
Sport Grille


by Chappy, on Flickr

Wheels/Tires & Suspension

2" Drop springs


by Chappy, on Flickr

Michelin 255/40/R20


by Chappy, on Flickr

TSW® - Valencia
Gloss Black with Mirror Cut Lip
• 20" x 8.5"
• +35 Offset
• 5x120.65 Bolt Pattern
• 76mm Hub

Engine

Bisimoto Stage 2 Cams

Custom 46mm Individual Throttles and secondary staged fuel injection (I am sidelining the SSFI for now)


by Chappy, on Flickr

Exhaust

RV6-P Pre-Cat delete pipes

by Chappy, on Flickr

RV6-P Equal length J-Pipe


by Chappy, on Flickr

Modified 2.5" Magnaflow Hi-Flow catalytic converter


by Chappy, on Flickr

Borla 2.5" cat back exhaust


by Chappy, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Did you make the intake and MAF mounting piece? Looks really good
Thank you.

As far as the MAF mount goes. I just cut the stock MAF housing and tubing (mount) out of the OEM intake box and matched the aluminum tubing to it. That way it maintains the stock MAF scale in the ECU's VE tables. That keeps all the electronics happy and the ECU has the ability to adjust fuel and ignition appropriately.
 

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Nice work sir! When will we see the dyno in this? And how did you get approval from the misses?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice work sir! When will we see the dyno in this? And how did you get approval from the misses?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Thanks!

No AWD dyno's in my local area, have to travel to find one. The misses and I may go on a shop & tune road trip late spring. Until then, I'll be keeping the tune fairly conservative. For the most part everything that I have built and bought for the engine should balance out with a couple good street tuning sessions. May have to wait till I take it to the track to get any actual numbers.... ;)

Happy wife = happy life ;)
 

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We have two AWD dyno shops in my area! Bring her to Iowa, is beautiful this time of year!

Also, I need to find an extra air box lid/MAF housing and give that a shot. I think the truck has adequate power, but I wanna hear those cams sing when I lay into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
To me that is the biggest gain from adding a cold air/short ram intake. I could really careless about the 5-10% claims of any gains in power or MPG. I love the wide open throttle sound that you get when you put your foot to the floor. amplified once again when she hits 4000RPM+ when the VTEC and secondaries open up.
 

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Actually from what I've read we don't need an AWD Dyno, pull the propeller shaft (rear drive shaft) and put it on the dyno as a FWD. The rear drive only works to 18mph, IIRC, and don't know what it would do on an AWD Dyno
 

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Carsmak, you are correct that the propeller shaft can be removed for dyno testing. Thats how I did all of mine. If you use an AWD dyno it needs to be speed coupled front to rear to prevent damage to the VTM4 diff.

Awesome build Ghost!!! You might want to think about KTuner so you can adjust your ecu mapping. It will make a BIG difference plus you can disable the secondary o2 sensors so you dont get a CEL with the PCDs.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Sweet I'll have to look into tuning it as a FWD. Only videos I have seen on YT have them rolling on AWD dyno's and it seems as though the rear wheels are rolling all through the RPM range. I would assume this is what you are referring to as speed coupled? So the rear rollers are coupled to the front.

dopes6070, I forgot to list that I have KTuner. I have been playing around with it on the stock setup for a few months now. Pretty sweet software for the price.
 

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Sweet I'll have to look into tuning it as a FWD. Only videos I have seen on YT have them rolling on AWD dyno's and it seems as though the rear wheels are rolling all through the RPM range. I would assume this is what you are referring to as speed coupled? So the rear rollers are coupled to the front.

dopes6070, I forgot to list that I have KTuner. I have been playing around with it on the stock setup for a few months now. Pretty sweet software for the price.
Yup speed coupled means it would lock the front and rear drums together to ensure the same wheel speed. Check out the vid below of my RL in FWD mode on Bisimoto's dyno. 262whp if I remember correctly. Awesome that you have ktuner it really makes me love honda's red headed step child that much more! I figure more of us buy it = more money for the developer to add more features. Maybe some day we will get AT maps ;-)

https://youtu.be/w9JIUS5Hw4I
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #16
I dont think you have the ZDX TB and ITBs. Did you mean you have custom Secondary butterflies?
I do have them both, However I am not running them both at the same time. I'll sort out the confusion here. The first post lists my "current setup", where I have the ZDX throttle body installed. The second post lists "Future Mods". Where I have built a custom set of ITB's to be installed sometime in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
MAC Kustoms J35 46mm Individual Throttle Bodies

Making of the custom 46mm individual throttle bodies for my J35 biuld

Had the lower spacer and the bottom portion of the upper intake manifold machined to accept my throttle bodies.

Spacer


by Chappy, on Flickr


by Chappy, on Flickr

Upper Intake Manifold


by Chappy, on Flickr


by Chappy, on Flickr

GSX-R Throttles


by Chappy, on Flickr


by Chappy, on Flickr


by Chappy, on Flickr

The fuel injector spacing on these ITBs is exactly the same as the stock J35 rails. So I purchased an extra set of rails. I have a modified set of GSX-R injectors and complete wiring harness to install as well.

Secondary J35Z5 fuel rails and 240cc GSX-R injectors mounted.

Rails and injectors mocked up so I could get the measurements for the aluminum mounting brackets.


by Chappy, on Flickr

Aluminum brackets fabricated and rails mounted to the GSX-R throttles.


by Chappy, on Flickr

The stock rails have the injectors pointing out from the center where as these are pointing in. This actually worked out in my favor as it took less fabrication to mount them this way on the throttles.

Complete intake manifold with lower intake runners mounted.


by Chappy, on Flickr

I will be using the stock injectors and fuel rails as well as these secondary injectors. May have to step up to a stand alone EMS for this one. The KTuner isn't going to cut it.

Or I just so happen to have a spare MegaSquirt III laying around that I may look into setting up for this build.... Time will tell!


by Chappy, on Flickr

It will only be for fuel and ignition, stock ECU will continue to control everything else. That is, if I can get it to work as a piggy back. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Intake manifold modifications

Picked up my Non IAB upper intake cover this week. Preparing to paint it the same colour as the chassis.


by Chappy, on Flickr

Factory casting flaw removal.


by Chappy, on Flickr


by Chappy, on Flickr

Paint to follow.....


Also took some time to port and polish the upper intake manifold.


by Chappy, on Flickr
 

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As much as ITBs are cool, my question is, what is the point? This is not a racing truck or a truck that will be raced frequently. I would imagine this is a full fledged daily driver with full interior and all the stock creature comforts. The investment of $$ and time made into the ITBs and ECU programming/piggy-backing, wont it be easier and efficient to go with a forced induction via centrifugal blower or a turbo? Realistically, all this work would add what, at most 50hp at the crank with some crafty fuel and ignition mapping on pump gas even with the proper exhaust, intakes and cams? How much of that would be usable at the wheels?

Dont get me wrong, a decade ago, I was hell bent on getting a forced inducted A20 motor with ITBs and a straight up CF plenum. Your build is surely one of a kind and you have my admiration for having some serious steel balls to do this.
 
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