Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

201 - 219 of 219 Posts

·
Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
·
4,098 Posts
I suppose its the M90? PrankParts could help with the newer J35 adapter plates.
However, I would look into the Gerzy Bear Performance that use the Rotrex unit, but involves losing the AC compressor. I was skeptical about the Rotrex unit, when I heard about it couple of years ago, but soon realized that Kraftworks uses them and it is a solid unit.

BTW, do you still want to use the ITBs with the stock intake manifold? I think you could do better with something like the Holley manifold conversion with P2R.
 

·
Super Moderator
2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
Joined
·
22,577 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
607 Posts
Discussion Starter #203
I suppose its the M90? PrankParts could help with the newer J35 adapter plates.
However, I would look into the Gerzy Bear Performance that use the Rotrex unit, but involves losing the AC compressor. I was skeptical about the Rotrex unit, when I heard about it couple of years ago, but soon realized that Kraftworks uses them and it is a solid unit.

BTW, do you still want to use the ITBs with the stock intake manifold? I think you could do better with something like the Holley manifold conversion with P2R.
Yes it is the M90, I'm good with making my own adapter plates. I have access to a fully tooled machine shop. This will more than likely be going in the Fiero.

If I had known about the P2r Holley adapter I probably would have gone that route. I have put so much time and effort into designing this setup that it wouldn't be worth it to change it up now. I'm going to give this OE setup a go and see who it makes out.

@GhostYK1 I just wanna know when you plan to install lambo doors on your Ridgeline? :D
Was never a fan of the Lambo doors, but, How's about I shave the door handles and install popper on it..... ;)
 

·
Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
·
4,098 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
607 Posts
Discussion Starter #206
Took the beast out for a bit of an unofficial auto slalom a few weeks ago and it really didn't feel all that great. With the setup I have, it should have been much more responsive. It was really boggy coming out of the corners on the gas. Something I never noticed driving around town. So I have been doing a bit of street tuning, data logging and reading/research. Seems as thought the stock ignition timing curves were a wee bit out of wack and the fuel and ignition tip-in's were way off. My timing was being retarded by as much as -15 degrees during hard acceleration due to the stock ignition tip-in retard. So, I zero'd all of the ignition tip in, changed my knock limits by and added 1.5% to the fuel tip in curves. Now she comes out of the corners like it should. Night and day difference, it can now easily spin all 4 tires and put you back in the seat. Hopefully I will hit some better times if/when I go to the next event. I have some EBC Yellow stuff pads and rotors waiting to be installed next summer, might actually try a sanctioned event next year.
 

·
Super Moderator
2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
Joined
·
7,261 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: GhostYK1

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
607 Posts
Discussion Starter #208
Any thoughts about the various "Stock" Acura Brake Upgrades that have been done by some on here?

This is one of the best documented discussions? Installed: MDX front brakes with EBC pads and rotors all around
I looked at that thread a while back and thought long and hard about it. To be honest with you I am not really having stopping issues. I am accustomed to manual brakes, so pushing a little further/harder on the peddle is not an issue. This thing stops on a dime if I want it to. The heat and brake fade is my issue, so the OEM size drilled and slotted rotors and EBC yellows is my next step. I already have all the parts. So I am going to give it a shot. If that doesn't work I will more than likely go with the 51mm x 330mm MDX upgrade and drop ABS and go with a Wilwood adjustable brake prop. valve.
 

·
Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
·
4,098 Posts
Brake fade is going to be an issue with these 320mm OEM rotors, though they could be StopTechs and matching aggressive pads. Given the physical size of the OEM pad size, even upgraded pads will heat up those rotors rapidly and the rotors will struggle to shed the heat. You can try active cooling, but it will still be an uphill battle. MDX caliper+rotors would help a bit, but for serious autocourse, you may want at least a 345mm size rotor with fixed calipers to manage the heat as the physics of the truck is too much.

BTW, I think you meant 28mm x 330mm rotors for the MDX ;)
 

·
Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
·
4,098 Posts
Also quick question, when you took the manifold (upper plenum) apart to part, was there a gasket you used when putting them back together?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
607 Posts
Discussion Starter #211
Brake fade is going to be an issue with these 320mm OEM rotors, though they could be StopTechs and matching aggressive pads. Given the physical size of the OEM pad size, even upgraded pads will heat up those rotors rapidly and the rotors will struggle to shed the heat. You can try active cooling, but it will still be an uphill battle. MDX caliper+rotors would help a bit, but for serious autocourse, you may want at least a 345mm size rotor with fixed calipers to manage the heat as the physics of the truck is too much.
That's kind of what I was thinking. Rather than spend money on the MDX upgrade, go straight to aftermarket.

BTW, I think you meant 28mm x 330mm rotors for the MDX ;)

Oh yea should have been more clear, I was quoting your post from that brake upgrade thread. Rounded the 50.8 to 51 ;)

[quote="smufguy]
"'10 MDX Caliper: 50.8mm | 2 Piston caliper | 4051.60 sq.mm | 330mm Front rotors"[/quote]
 

·
Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
·
4,098 Posts
Okay cool I have a tube of Honda bond and I think will put that to good use.

The MDX caliper piston diameter is 50.8mm and the front rotor it uses is 330mm (dia) x 28mm (thick). So yes, that combo will be much better. I am in the process of upgrading my Odyssey brakes as it is due for a change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,509 Posts
After reading this thread again, I only have one small comment. The EBC Yellow rotors that I have been using the last 275,000 miles are not drilled rotors. I have even talked with them as to the reason they are not drilled.
 

·
Registered
2014 Sport
Joined
·
3,331 Posts
After reading this thread again, I only have one small comment. The EBC Yellow rotors that I have been using the last 275,000 miles are not drilled rotors. I have even talked with them as to the reason they are not drilled.
They are "dimpled" not drilled correct? "Yellow" is just their name for one of their pad types not their rotors.
 

·
Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
·
4,098 Posts
After looking at it a bit more, if the ones I bought don't work out, I will be going with a custom Stoptech or Wilwood setup. Thanks for the information. (y)
I hope Wilwood may have some one day. Two years ago Wilwood referred me to Fast Brakes and they were not that keen, like others, oh doing something from scratch for the Ridgeline.
StopTech does have part numbers for the front and rear, costs a lot more than I was willing to pay for :(.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
607 Posts
Discussion Starter #219
You have to pay to play in this game....lol I'm pretty sure what I have bought will be good enough for what I am using the truck for. If not, I'll just have to drop the Ridge and get my Fiero track ready sooner. ;)
 
201 - 219 of 219 Posts
Top