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I suppose its the M90? PrankParts could help with the newer J35 adapter plates.
However, I would look into the Gerzy Bear Performance that use the Rotrex unit, but involves losing the AC compressor. I was skeptical about the Rotrex unit, when I heard about it couple of years ago, but soon realized that Kraftworks uses them and it is a solid unit.

BTW, do you still want to use the ITBs with the stock intake manifold? I think you could do better with something like the Holley manifold conversion with P2R.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Discussion Starter #203
I suppose its the M90? PrankParts could help with the newer J35 adapter plates.
However, I would look into the Gerzy Bear Performance that use the Rotrex unit, but involves losing the AC compressor. I was skeptical about the Rotrex unit, when I heard about it couple of years ago, but soon realized that Kraftworks uses them and it is a solid unit.

BTW, do you still want to use the ITBs with the stock intake manifold? I think you could do better with something like the Holley manifold conversion with P2R.
Yes it is the M90, I'm good with making my own adapter plates. I have access to a fully tooled machine shop. This will more than likely be going in the Fiero.

If I had known about the P2r Holley adapter I probably would have gone that route. I have put so much time and effort into designing this setup that it wouldn't be worth it to change it up now. I'm going to give this OE setup a go and see who it makes out.

@GhostYK1 I just wanna know when you plan to install lambo doors on your Ridgeline? :D
Was never a fan of the Lambo doors, but, How's about I shave the door handles and install popper on it..... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #206
Took the beast out for a bit of an unofficial auto slalom a few weeks ago and it really didn't feel all that great. With the setup I have, it should have been much more responsive. It was really boggy coming out of the corners on the gas. Something I never noticed driving around town. So I have been doing a bit of street tuning, data logging and reading/research. Seems as thought the stock ignition timing curves were a wee bit out of wack and the fuel and ignition tip-in's were way off. My timing was being retarded by as much as -15 degrees during hard acceleration due to the stock ignition tip-in retard. So, I zero'd all of the ignition tip in, changed my knock limits by and added 1.5% to the fuel tip in curves. Now she comes out of the corners like it should. Night and day difference, it can now easily spin all 4 tires and put you back in the seat. Hopefully I will hit some better times if/when I go to the next event. I have some EBC Yellow stuff pads and rotors waiting to be installed next summer, might actually try a sanctioned event next year.
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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Discussion Starter #208
Any thoughts about the various "Stock" Acura Brake Upgrades that have been done by some on here?

This is one of the best documented discussions? Installed: MDX front brakes with EBC pads and rotors all around
I looked at that thread a while back and thought long and hard about it. To be honest with you I am not really having stopping issues. I am accustomed to manual brakes, so pushing a little further/harder on the peddle is not an issue. This thing stops on a dime if I want it to. The heat and brake fade is my issue, so the OEM size drilled and slotted rotors and EBC yellows is my next step. I already have all the parts. So I am going to give it a shot. If that doesn't work I will more than likely go with the 51mm x 330mm MDX upgrade and drop ABS and go with a Wilwood adjustable brake prop. valve.
 

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Brake fade is going to be an issue with these 320mm OEM rotors, though they could be StopTechs and matching aggressive pads. Given the physical size of the OEM pad size, even upgraded pads will heat up those rotors rapidly and the rotors will struggle to shed the heat. You can try active cooling, but it will still be an uphill battle. MDX caliper+rotors would help a bit, but for serious autocourse, you may want at least a 345mm size rotor with fixed calipers to manage the heat as the physics of the truck is too much.

BTW, I think you meant 28mm x 330mm rotors for the MDX ;)
 

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Also quick question, when you took the manifold (upper plenum) apart to part, was there a gasket you used when putting them back together?
 

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Discussion Starter #211
Brake fade is going to be an issue with these 320mm OEM rotors, though they could be StopTechs and matching aggressive pads. Given the physical size of the OEM pad size, even upgraded pads will heat up those rotors rapidly and the rotors will struggle to shed the heat. You can try active cooling, but it will still be an uphill battle. MDX caliper+rotors would help a bit, but for serious autocourse, you may want at least a 345mm size rotor with fixed calipers to manage the heat as the physics of the truck is too much.
That's kind of what I was thinking. Rather than spend money on the MDX upgrade, go straight to aftermarket.

BTW, I think you meant 28mm x 330mm rotors for the MDX ;)

Oh yea should have been more clear, I was quoting your post from that brake upgrade thread. Rounded the 50.8 to 51 ;)

[quote="smufguy]
"'10 MDX Caliper: 50.8mm | 2 Piston caliper | 4051.60 sq.mm | 330mm Front rotors"[/quote]
 
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