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Discussion Starter #161
Hey there brother long time no talk. I had a quick question on the custom intake you did. How much did you cut off the oem intake sensor where the sensor sits in?

by GhostYK1, on Flickr

Sorry for the late response, I cut it approx. 3/4" - 1" from the left and right of the rings beside the sensor mount. If I remember correctly there wasn't much more than that between the sensor and the filter box.

I did the same set up but cel light still turns on maybe i have to run it?
Did you reset the ECU and then let it go through the idle learn procedure?

Do you know what diagnostic trouble code the check engine light is on for?
 

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by GhostYK1, on Flickr



Sorry for the late response, I cut it approx. 3/4" - 1" from the left and right of the rings beside the sensor mount. If I remember correctly there wasn't much more than that between the sensor and the filter box.







Did you reset the ECU and then let it go through the idle learn procedure?



Do you know what diagnostic trouble code the check engine light is on for?
Idle learn procedure? I went and adjusted the intake pipe angle and turned off the truck and turned back on and the light came off i dont know if it needs to be perfectly leveled or what but It was sagging quite a bit. Put some Zip ties to just hold it in place to see if it comes back on.

Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk
 

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Idle learn procedure? I went and adjusted the intake pipe angle and turned off the truck and turned back on and the light came off i dont know if it needs to be perfectly leveled or what but It was sagging quite a bit. Put some Zip ties to just hold it in place to see if it comes back on.
Hope this helps, from the FSM.
PCM Idle Learn Procedure
The idle learn procedure must be done so the PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.
Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions:
• Replace PCM.
• Reset PCM.
• Update PCM.
• Clean or replace the throttle body.
NOTE: Erasing DTCs with the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure.
1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off.
2. Reset the PCM with the HDS.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds.
4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 °F (90 °C).
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.
 

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Hope this helps, from the FSM.

PCM Idle Learn Procedure

The idle learn procedure must be done so the PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.

Do the idle learn procedure whenever you do any of these actions:

• Replace PCM.

• Reset PCM.

• Update PCM.

• Clean or replace the throttle body.

NOTE: Erasing DTCs with the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure.

1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off.

2. Reset the PCM with the HDS.

3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds.

4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 °F (90 °C).

5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.

NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.
Will i need a computer to reset the pcm and hds?

Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk
 

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^^ You can simply unhook the battery for 30 minutes to do the same thing. 30 minutes should be enough for any residual power to be removed from the PCM. Just make sure you have your radio code if you still have an OEM head unit. Otherwise, no big deal.
 

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i'm curious, with all this 300-400 hp talk, has anybody beefed up the transmission, awd, and differentials. last i remember reading, those parts were about at the limit of breaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
i'm curious, with all this 300-400 hp talk, has anybody beefed up the transmission, awd, and differentials. last i remember reading, those parts were about at the limit of breaking.
Do you have any links to the articles that you have read that stated the stock running gear was at it's limits?

I was always under the assumption that in order to sell a vehicle there is some sort of safety/reliability factor added into the parts used. That would usually put them able to handle x-times more than stock. Not 100% though. I beat on my truck daily and have yet to replace any drive train components or have any noticeable slipping. [knocks-on-wood] Every year I do my fluid changes and have yet to notice any unusual conditions, no burnt fluids or particulate in the oils. In saying that I have looked into the possibility of upgrade parts for the diff and trans. Seems as though Honda/Acura use the same parts in their 220hp and 310hp V6 auto trans vehicles (AWD).
 

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that's good to hear. wayyy back there was talk about the stress limit on stock parts of the drivetrain. nothing "official" from honda, but they really haven't gone crazy in the hp department either.

i beat my truck too, but not with more hp than stock (unless k&n air filter really does give 30hp like claimed.. lol)
 

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took a bit of searching, but here's a quote from probably the most respected and knowledgeable people on this board...

There are other limiting factors. First the VTM-4 unit is running near its torque design limit. If torque were significantly increased Honda would have to swap out VTM-4 for SH-AWD, but SH-AWD is much more expensive.

Another factor is that Honda doesn't have a transmission that will take much more torque. It's my understanding that they have a little wiggle room with the 6AT, but due to the small clutch pack surface area they're already running the fluid hot and at high pressure. Honda keeps teasing that they have a 7-speed dual-clutch transmission in the works, but as I've said several times it seems to be vaporware to date. Either way, I seriously doubt that it would handle more torque than the 5AT or 6AT transmissions.
i'm not sayin' you're wrong, and it's good to know that real world use has proven that these parts are ok.... now where's that comptech supercharger i heard about... :grin:
 

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that's good to hear. wayyy back there was talk about the stress limit on stock parts of the drivetrain. nothing "official" from honda, but they really haven't gone crazy in the hp department either.

i beat my truck too, but not with more hp than stock (unless k&n air filter really does give 30hp like claimed.. lol)
I do remember from many years ago that there was talk of this sort of thing. It was stated somewhere that the VTM-4 rear diff clutch packs were rated for safe operation up to approximately 280-290 lb/ft of torque before accelerated wear began happening. Likewise, the transmission clutches were rated for somewhere a little north of that, too. I don't believe there has ever been a G1 RL (with maybe Ghost as an exception) which has been massaged to put out that amount of power and tested in the long term. Gary Flint and his team of engineers took all of this into account, I'm sure, but, like most manufacturer engineers, they are going to remain conservative on their findings. The RL CAN haul more than 1500lbs. It CAN tow more than 5000lbs. It CAN handle more than 300hp. But, it's likely advisable to remain under those numbers.

took a bit of searching, but here's a quote from probably the most respected and knowledgeable people on this board...



i'm not sayin' you're wrong, and it's good to know that real world use has proven that these parts are ok.... now where's that comptech supercharger i heard about... :grin:
The Comptech SC was developed for the G1 RL back in 2006 or so. It was fitted to a test truck and fit under the stock hood. However, it was never made available for sale. Rumors circulated that Comptech was only seeing about 40whp after installing it and they were having many issues with the tuning and A/F ratios. The "kit" was also rumored to cost north of $7000 - quite a pretty penny for not a whole lot of power gains on a relatively low volume model like the RL. There was a member here just a few years ago who swapped in a 3.7 liter V6 from an MDX into his RL and made it work well. He teased all of us with an Eaton supercharger install, but, to my knowledge, has never reported back with a finished product.

There was also another individual here who tried to do a turbo kit. He blew up his original engine, installed a new one and had issues with it, too. He, too, wasn't heard from again.

As much as it's fun to see forced induction on an unusual vehicle like the RL, it just isn't a practical thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
i'm not sayin' you're wrong, and it's good to know that real world use has proven that these parts are ok.... now where's that comptech supercharger i heard about... :grin:
I'm still working on getting the ITB's up and running. A supercharger or turbo will have to wait till I get that setup up and running. :wink:

I do remember from many years ago that there was talk of this sort of thing. It was stated somewhere that the VTM-4 rear diff clutch packs were rated for safe operation up to approximately 280-290 lb/ft of torque before accelerated wear began happening. Likewise, the transmission clutches were rated for somewhere a little north of that, too. I don't believe there has ever been a G1 RL (with maybe Ghost as an exception) which has been massaged to put out that amount of power and tested in the long term. Gary Flint and his team of engineers took all of this into account, I'm sure, but, like most manufacturer engineers, they are going to remain conservative on their findings. The RL CAN haul more than 1500lbs. It CAN tow more than 5000lbs. It CAN handle more than 300hp. But, it's likely advisable to remain under those numbers.
With the research that I have been doing lately into cross referencing part numbers, there is a 310hp AWD Acura that uses the same trans and diff clutches as the G1. It is not SH-AWD, although that would be a nice swap. If this drive train does finally wear out, I am still looking forward to trying a 6spd AWD setup. >:)
 

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Discussion Starter #178 (Edited)
New Skinz arrived today!

New on top old on bottom.....

by GhostYK1, on Flickr

New skinz are 245/45R20 103/Y....old were 255/55R20 104/W..... That's right 103/Y. They are not up to spec for Honda LT ratings. That's OK to me, because the most weight that will be in the back of my truck this summer is my goalie gear and a case of beer.

Cheers, enjoy the ride!
 

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Was on call this long weekend, and got called in. So hopefully this is what I get to look forward to doing next weekend.


by GhostYK1, on Flickr
@GhostYK1 what brake upgrade are you doing, need more than a pretty picture...
 
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