good price?
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Great price! I have the same year and color! Mine is a southern vehicle and have not had any issues with rust-corrosion (ie. radiator) but so many have. I agree with the fluid-spark plug maintainance stuff Do not forget the timing belt!
I love the "bling" that I have added. You will have fun making the vehicle your own!! It's a great vehicle, ENJOY!:act006:
I love the "bling" that I have added. You will have fun making the vehicle your own!! It's a great vehicle, ENJOY!:act006:
The reason that was stated is due to the nature of this radiator design (not exclusive to the RL or to Honda) to fail at the tranny/radiator fittings thereby mixing coolant in the tranny fluid resulting in an oftentimes catastrophic transmission failure.
See here for more info:
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53921
Now it doesn't happen that often. But if it does, it is no fun and can be both frightening and expensive.
Same thing on the loose spark plug issue (which appears to be a J35 issue, not specific to the RL):
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/14-problems/27614-anyone-ever-hear-spark-plugs-backing-out.html
I'd just check them for proper torque (13 lb-ft).
This shouldn't make you enjoy your new purchase any less. Every vehicle has its warts. The warts just don't normally show until some miles are on the vehicle. If your RL has been properly maintained and operated, you should reasonably expect 300+k miles out of it.
Regarding things to do to your new purchase? Anytime you buy a used vehicle (not knowing the maintenance history), it's a good idea to do a complete fluid and filter change to establish your maintenance baseline.
For the RL that will entail:
1)oil and filter change (oil of your choice that meets the spec; a good quality oil filter (not the Honda A02 filter, but the A01 made by Filtech is good)
2) transmission fluid flush (comprised of 4 drain and fills, with some miles driven in between changes using all gears). Honda DW-1 fluid only.
3) transfer assembly fluid change (hypoid gear oil) using whatever gear oil meets the spec. Many here use Mobil 1 75w-90, which is slightly outside the spec of 80w-90, but is a GL5 fluid. Valvoline makes an 80w-90 GL5 that I also like and will use and is a bit cheaper than the M1 fluid.
4) rear diff (VTM-4) fluid change using VTM-4 fluid only.
5) Brake fluid flush (LF, RF, RR, LR... in that order)
6) engine air filter and cabin air filter.
7) power steering fluid change using the Honda PS fluid.
8) Coolant change using the Honda pre-mix. (I like to change this initially in the 50-60k mile range and then again with a new radiator when the TB/WP service is done). Again, stick with the Honda coolant (blue).
If your RL has not been operated in severe service conditions, then the normal timing belt/water pump/hydraulic tensioner change will typically be called for (by the Maintenance Minder system) at the oil change just prior to reaching 105k miles.
Personally, I waited until 120k miles to do that service on my 2006 Pilot and also had the valves adjusted, the radiator and coolant replaced, new front struts, new serpentine belt and tensioner, new spark plugs, etc. But my Pilot was not operated in SS conditions and having it since new (as well as maintaining it), I was comfy in extending that TB service.
If I missed anything above, I'm sure someone will correct me and I'll update the post accordingly.
Good luck with your RL and fire away if you have any questions.
Great advice..i would wait on timing belt too..i went about 150000 before i did mine. I really think the fluids are credit critical to long life with oem fluids
If you DIY the costs are minimal. For example the full fluid/filter change runs around $500 at my local dealer. I can do it for about $125 in parts and maybe 3 hours of DIY time (I just did this to my RL about a week ago.. not including brake fluid, coolant, or PS fluid. But I did the big 4... oil, tranny, transfer assembly, rear diff.. and I work s l o w l y).
Shop your parts. Your dealer may be willing to price match.
Shop your parts. Your dealer may be willing to price match.
Good advice from Speed as usual. You bought the right color, that's for sure! Love my Nimbus Gray Metallic truck - even at nearly 10 years old and 149,000 miles. Fluid maintenance is key on these things. I've been very strict with it and DIY everything. Working on this truck is EXTREMELY simple. Only takes regular hand tools and some of your time. If you can change oil, you can change every fluid on this truck with it sitting on the ground (brake fluid being the exception).
You got a very good deal on that truck. It looks like you have a blank canvas, too. You said you were going to change the wheels and add a tonneau cover. Good choices. I would highly recommend going with a full set of 18" wheels and tires of your choosing and keeping the stock wheels and tires for the winter months (if you need to worry about snow and road salt). I also very highly recommend a front bug shield on the hood, AVS or Weathertech visors for the windows and a set of black running boards. I feel that the RL is naked without some sort of running board or tube step. Any other plans for it? Audio system?
You got a very good deal on that truck. It looks like you have a blank canvas, too. You said you were going to change the wheels and add a tonneau cover. Good choices. I would highly recommend going with a full set of 18" wheels and tires of your choosing and keeping the stock wheels and tires for the winter months (if you need to worry about snow and road salt). I also very highly recommend a front bug shield on the hood, AVS or Weathertech visors for the windows and a set of black running boards. I feel that the RL is naked without some sort of running board or tube step. Any other plans for it? Audio system?
I would do the radiator when you do the TB/WP service, unless there are indications of a pending failure (see the pics in the thread for some indication).
IMO, the issue is still open for interpretation as to whether or not the radiator issue is related to external conditions (rust belt) or dis-similar metal corrosion causing the fittings to fail.
IMO, the issue is still open for interpretation as to whether or not the radiator issue is related to external conditions (rust belt) or dis-similar metal corrosion causing the fittings to fail.
I agree with speed that you need to take a look at the condition of the fittings on your radiator. If they appear to be heavily corroded, I would do it proactively. It's a bit difficult to tell the condition of them as it's typically a problem that happens from the inside-out. Nonetheless, I don't think you should have any issues waiting until the timing belt service at 105k miles. You'll save money on the labor costs since they need to drain a good portion of the coolant to do that service anyways. Swapping out the radiator would only be a few hundred bucks on top of the price.
As for the spark plugs, there is no reason to change them now. As suggested, you can simply check to ensure they are torqued properly now and run them until the timing belt service, as well. I changed mine at around 110k miles and they still looked as if they could have gone at least another 50k miles. The stock NGK iridium plugs are basically the best plug you can get. They last a LONG time. When you do replace them, don't let the dealership charge you $20+ for each plug. You can buy a set of six on Amazon for less than $60.
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30 Posts
We've had the Access cover on our RL since we bought it in 2009. It works as promised and has been trouble free.
At a minimum I'd do a UOA of the Transmission so you know where your at, it's cheap insurance.
All the following threads are on Transmission/Radiator issues.
Happy Reading & Good luck
Pictures of Corroded/Rusted Radiator Fittings
Radiator Fail on 2006
Best Radiator Replacement
UOA on ATF
Anatomy of OEM Denso Radiator
Poll(Never Posted) on Radiator/Trans Cooler Solution
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197 Posts
The only thing I would add to the list is WeatherTech floor liners, absolutely the best!
I had the OEM Honda rubber mats. They worked well, but then I got a full set of the Weathertech mats. There's no comparison. Take out, hose off, dry, wipe with some non-greasy plastic protectant and put back in. They cover every square inch of carpet and have saved them in more than one instance from spills and winter road grime.
That's a huge bonus that the truck came with a Pioneer nav head unit! Do you know if the speakers were replaced with anything? Satisfied with the sound quality?
I believe speakers upgraded also. To be honest i bought this truck while i am deployed over seas. My family and mechanic checked out truck for me. Been shopping for a RL and luckily found this one. I will look into floor mats. Ill be ordering my tonneau, vent visors, and other toys for it soon. Thanks for all the advice.
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