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Discussion Starter #1
Just complete a brake job on my ridge consisting of using WAGNER BD126355 Premium rotors for the front and WAGNER BD12635 Premium on the back, WAGNER PD1103 ThermoQuiet pads on the rear and WAGNER PD1102 ThermoQuiet pads on the front. Also, RAYBESTOS Professional Grade caliber pin guides where used all the way around. Flushed all the oil brake fluid out and filled with new. The problem is I a can hear a grinding noise from one or more of the rotors as I get close to coming to a complete stop. What do you think the problem is? The calibers are all original OEM with 209K on them. However, nothing was grinding before this brake job with about 3mm left on the old brake pads. Is or more calibers hanging up? Thanks for your input and help.
 

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It could be that the pads need to wear/bed into the rotors. Did you lubricate the slide pins with silicone? Did you compress the calipers?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the reply. Yes, they were lubed and calibers compressed. This is the first time I went with non-OEM brake replacement parts and wondering if this is the cost of not using OEM brake parts? I did not think about pads needing to seat with new rotors. How long should this process take and is there any driving style I should use to get a proper seat against the rotors?

It could be that the pads need to wear/bed into the rotors. Did you lubricate the slide pins with silicone? Did you compress the calipers?
 

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If it's just the machined surface of the rotors breaking in, you should notice it gets less noticeable as time goes by (should dissipate after a few days).
 

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Usually there is a "bed in" procedure, it's typically the first 50-500 miles and some even suggest "aggressive" braking during the "bed in", specifically the ones with short bed-in procedures.

But there is also a chance in those 209k calipers, one or more of them are stuck, I'd try to identify which corner it is and take that apart, also if it's hanging the pad up you'll find the brake is significantly hotter than the others.
 

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Aftermarket pads. OEM pads do not need a "bed-in" You get what you pay for. If a caliper was hanging up you would probably hear it all the time. Most of these cheap pads use a low quality ceramic material or have giant chunks of ceramic that will squeak when there is a pointy spot and sometimes goes away once smoothed out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, but Unfortunately, it is still happening.

If it's just the machined surface of the rotors breaking in, you should notice it gets less noticeable as time goes by (should dissipate after a few days).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Excellent point, will do. If indeed I need to replace calibur, which brand would you recommend. I usually order from Rockauto. Should I use OEM for replacement, if so, where do you recommend ordering from? Thanks

Usually there is a "bed in" procedure, it's typically the first 50-500 miles and some even suggest "aggressive" braking during the "bed in", specifically the ones with short bed-in procedures.

But there is also a chance in those 209k calipers, one or more of them are stuck, I'd try to identify which corner it is and take that apart, also if it's hanging the pad up you'll find the brake is significantly hotter than the others.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Understand about cheap pads. I bought Wagner's best, "Professional Grade" rotors and pads.

Aftermarket pads. OEM pads do not need a "bed-in" You get what you pay for. If a caliper was hanging up you would probably hear it all the time. Most of these cheap pads use a low quality ceramic material or have giant chunks of ceramic that will squeak when there is a pointy spot and sometimes goes away once smoothed out.
 

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I just replaced mine with ones from rock auto, I have 208k miles on my 06 and it was just time to replace them, had one side wearing much more than the other.

Just pick the one with the "heart" next to the listing on RA and you should be fine... generally that's the most picked option.

Just be sure to reinstall the clips for the brake pads correctly, if they are not snug and all the way in they can cause noise on the brake rotor. And it's a grinding noise. Your inside pad will also have a wear bar on it that will make a griding noise once it's reached, make sure none of your pads are to that point.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Bogus919.

Looks like the favorite at the Rock for rear calipers is RAYBESTOS Professional Grade, but then no "heart" for fronts. I wonder if Denso is the OEM of the Honda calipers.

Good point, thank you for pointing the clips and pad wear.

I just replaced mine with ones from rock auto, I have 208k miles on my 06 and it was just time to replace them, had one side wearing much more than the other.

Just pick the one with the "heart" next to the listing on RA and you should be fine... generally that's the most picked option.

Just be sure to reinstall the clips for the brake pads correctly, if they are not snug and all the way in they can cause noise on the brake rotor. And it's a grinding noise. Your inside pad will also have a wear bar on it that will make a griding noise once it's reached, make sure none of your pads are to that point.
 

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Just replaced my rear pads with NAPA premium pads, afterwords I noticed a metal to metal grinding noise, I couldn't figure out were it was coming from, jacked up the truck and removed the rear wheels again, I spun the rotors and noticed that the grinding noise was coming from the new hardware provided with the pads. The metal clips/slides were rubbing against the edges of the rotors causing the noise.
 

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I've not had much luck in the past with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads. I tried them on a Chrysler minivan (front and rear), and they were noisy and pretty dusty. I sold the van before doing anything about them. Since then, I've been using Akebono on most of my stuff, and I've been pleased with them. Rock Auto also sells that brand; I always get their mid-grade Pro-ACT pad. It's not cheap, but it's a good pad.

If you can't otherwise find the noise, I'd put your old pads back in just to see if the noise remains or goes away. If it remains, then you know it's not the pads. If it's quiet again, then I'd send the Wagner pads back and try a different brand.
 

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'Don't know how true it is, but I was told once way back when by a brake guy that switching back & forth from semi-metalic pads to other types (ceramic or the old compositions) did funny things to brakes/rotors, and was not recommended at all. This WAS a long time ago, so might not be valid (better pad & rotor materials now?).

I can't vouch for that at all... but it's a data-point (as nebulous as it might be). :)
 

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I used Thermoquiet pads on a different vehicle once and they lasted quite a long time. They dusted a little more than I thought they should, but they were pretty quality pads. If you replaced rotors and pads, there is definitely a bedding-in process that needs to happen. Being that it's now been four days since you replaced them, if it's still happening, there's probably something not quite lining up. I would pull the wheels off and spin each rotor to see if you can recreate the noise. If it's something as simple as a hardware clip or something like that, it's an easy fix. If you pinpoint it to a caliper, they're also pretty easy to swap out. Akebono parts from RockAuto seem to be the best way to go although I replaced both rear calipers on my wife's Accord with reman'd Autocraft parts from Advance Auto and have had no issues at all in the three years they've been on.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thank you Guys,

All of your input really helps.

For all your input, they are still making noise. I will pull the wheels and let you know what I found out.
 
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