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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
'06 RTS 86,906 miles

Well that was weird.
Tried to start the RL and it kinda sputtered during startup...it did engage and runs fine but ... any idea what that was?

Edit:
No warning lights
Dirty fuel injectors?
Distributor cap?


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Not time for sparkplugs, but you never know, if you do change plugs, put the correct ones in don't to cheap. coil starting to go bad. They usually just go bad but you never know
Another thing make sure plugs are tight.


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Discussion Starter #3
Oh I've learned my lesson with cheap plugs!
Honda+ cheap plugs= Bad day


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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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@scubacamper where are you at maintenance wise?

No Distributor/Cap, Coil Packs

If replacing spark plugs, 13ft-lb on cold engine, block is aluminum

Suggestions; at a minimum recheck torque of existing plugs, many replace around 105k-120k, some even further, maybe run some premium fuel, age of battery if unsure replace, check engine grounds in addition to battery connections for corrosion.
 
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If it only did it the one time, it could be it didn't get a good reading on your key. My 2011 did that once in a while. Look for the green key on the dash flashing. Shut off, pull the key out and restart.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've read you can check which coil might be bad by unplugging them, one at a time. Is this the case for the RL as well? Where are the plugs?? :)
If that's not a good idea, how can I nail down which one might be at-fault?


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I've read you can check which coil might be bad by unplugging them, one at a time. Is this the case for the RL as well? Where are the plugs?? :)
If that's not a good idea, how can I nail down which one might be at-fault?


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I believe I've read that here on the forum, also. Basically when you remove the coil (or the power from the coil) and the engine doesn't sound different, then that is the "failed" coil.

I think you could "unplug them" I believe? I'm taking a lot of guesses, and I don't even have the RL with me today to look at the engine compartment, I think the clip marked "A" could be disconnected easier

Before I did any of that I'd ensure that the plugs are at 13 ft lbs all the way around on a "cold engine", and be careful not to strip the threads...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh I see now - the cover has to be removed to allow access to the plugs (pigtails)


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Discussion Starter #10
Unplugged each one, one at a time, each one showed normal performance change.
I haven't experienced any strange startups again since the one instance mentioned above.

I don't know if it's related or not, but I have noticed slight fluctuations in the RPM's without touching the accelerator, when cruising on the highway (about 55-60mph), not using cruise control.


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Discussion Starter #12
Nope - haven't seen it since...


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