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Discussion Starter #1
In my previous vehicle, a Jeep Grand Cherokee, I hard-wired m Escort radar detector. It was placed to the right of the rear-view mirror. My Jeep Grand Cherokee did not have side curtain air bags so I had no problem with loosening the molding on the pillar to run the wire.

Any one have any suggestions how to run the wire and where to connect it too? I'm hoping some of you with service manuals may have come across and accessory wiring block or something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

--AJ
 

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You should be able to use the wires that are tucked in to the moulding, just to the right of the mirror. It should have a connector for powering the optional autodimming mirror. If you already have a compass mirror, tap into it's power! Manual sez the positive wire is Yellow/Green As always, check it with a meter before connecting to it :eek:
 

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I suggest the right A-pillar. The side curtain airbags are not in the A-pillar, but up above the side windows. There is a cord in the pillars, but you won't be damaging anything. The left a-pillar is a bit tricky to take off, but the right one is a snap.

Take the two plastic covers off the grab handle that's on the pillar. Take the two bolts out and pull the pillar cover off. That's it.

The driver side is tricky because you have to remove the SRS rectangle thingy. You risk scratching it up if you are not careful. It's in there pretty tight. At first, I thought it was not removeable, but with a jeweller's screwdriver it was possible to take out. Honda recommends you replace the rectangle cover. I guess most people end up breaking it or damaging it. I nicked mine a bit, but sanding it a bit hid most of it. If you don't mind the extra bit of wire length, I suggest the passenger side. Plus, there's less stuff on that side - you can put a bundle of wires down on that side with room to spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for all the recommendations. I have the Ridgeline with the navigation system. I guess there is a plug tucked away up in the headliner that I can tap into as suggested. Is this wire switched with the ignition and is there a ground lead up there too?

Thanks for all your help!

--AJ
 

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mugen1 said:
...The left a-pillar is a bit tricky to take off, but the right one is a snap.

Take the two plastic covers off the grab handle that's on the pillar. Take the two bolts out and pull the pillar cover off. That's it...
This is great info; I've been looking for someone to spoon-feed this to me for months, and this does the trick! Maybe I'll finally get-around to installing my driver's side visor LCD monitor/mirror/light & rear-view camera!

Your conversion pics/info (cardomain.com) are amazing. I'm not sure which to admire most--your prowess at doing the installations, or your guts for completely tearing-apart a brand-new $33K vehicle! Anyway, thanks!
 

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^^^ The dumb thing was I drove around for two weeks without the A-pillar covers on and didn't take any pics of what the pillars look like in the nude. I have to redo the pillar mounted speakers, because some fractures/cracks in the liquid plastic that was used to make them are showing up. I'll take the pics then to show people how safe it is to take the covers off. The side curtain airbag cords and the bolts that hold them are behind a metal plate, so it's not a problem at all - totally safe.

Thanks for noticing my cardomain site. I should update that page with the aftermarket nav I'm trying to install. I just need to find two wires I need to make it all work.
 

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Empyrean said:
In my previous vehicle, a Jeep Grand Cherokee, I hard-wired m Escort radar detector. It was placed to the right of the rear-view mirror. My Jeep Grand Cherokee did not have side curtain air bags so I had no problem with loosening the molding on the pillar to run the wire.

Any one have any suggestions how to run the wire and where to connect it too? I'm hoping some of you with service manuals may have come across and accessory wiring block or something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

--AJ
I just finished installing my hard wire for my radar detector. I used the feed for the autodim mirror. Since I have NAV, my RTL came with a basic mirror. I liked the compass mirror in the test driver and finally found one on eBay.

I made a small Y harness to feed both the new compass mirror and the radar from the same feed. Since I got a salvaged mirror, it didn't come with the matching connector (it was snipped) so I had to tap into the existing connector in the headliner.

Use the installation instructions for the autodim mirror from H & A to remove the map light assembly.

Here are some pics of the connectors up in the headliner, above the map light/sunglass holder assembly. The four pin connector was taped up out of site along the wire harness with "black" tape (not blue) It is designed to be used for the compass or autodim mirrors. The other two connecters are for the map lights and the HomeLink module. Leave those alone and just tap onto the four pin mirror connector.

The four pin connector only has three wires going to it, primary colors are yellow, green and black. Use the yellow for positive and the black for negative (ground) Don't use the green wire unless you want a signal that is active when in reverse :p
 

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Valentine 1.......... you've got good taste. I'm saving up to get one myself Are they as good as they claim?
 

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kd4z - Where did you place your screw to mount your detector? I basically did the samething (only on the driver's side) which I used one of the visor mounting screws, but it makes it somewhat harder to use the visor.

Thanks,
Honda Guy
 

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The Valentine 1 is the best detector bar none in my opinion. I have had mine for about 11 years now. It paid for itself within two months based on the $$ saved in avoided "traps" that my previous Cincinatti based company's product missed. The V1 does the best job in helping you determine the difference between real threats and false hits. Most of the false hits nowadays are other cars with bu#$$it radar detectors that transmit more emissions from their internal local oscillators than they hear themselves.

I used to use the "E" brand from the beginning when they initially came out with the super-heterodyne model. But back in the mid 90's the products became cheap and full of crap plastic.

My V1 has had two factory upgrades done since I first bought it. One for better KA coverage and the other to add Laser. It is great to know that it can be upgraded when required. I now have two V1 units so my wife is protected too.

Sorry the photo is blurred. My camera has trouble focusing in close up mode. I didn't bolt the unit up at all, it is just stuck to the window using the suction cup bracket. I have three vehicles that it gets moved around in (not including my wife's) so I just use the suction mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
kd4z said:
My V1 has had two factory upgrades done since I first bought it. One for better KA coverage and the other to add Laser. It is great to know that it can be upgraded when required. I now have two V1 units so my wife is protected too.

Sorry the photo is blurred. My camera has trouble focusing in close up mode. I didn't bolt the unit up at all, it is just stuck to the window using the suction cup bracket. I have three vehicles that it gets moved around in (not including my wife's) so I just use the suction mount.
Thanks for posting the pictures and information. I hope to get my hardwire for Escort shortly. I was reading the V1 site after you posted your pictures. The one thing I was curious is how much the upgrades cost approximately. Would you mind sharing how much you paid to upgrade your V1 each time?
 

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That's a good question. It isn't "cheap". I would have to dig up the bills to get the figures exact. I remember that it varied, depending on how old (far back) your current unit is by serial number. The laser upgrade was an additional charge to the "normal" upgrade at that time. Seems like it was about $175 for that upgrade. Other upgrades are more or less, depending on how far back you are (in two or three steps)

But before you say "Wow, that is a lot, I could buy another whole brand X for that", consider this. The upgrade totally replaces the internal electronics -- microwave diodes, receivers and logic board. It isn't just a firmware flash upgrade. They also replace the case if it is scratched or damaged (or missing a knob) And, the warrantee is reset to full term again. Your unit comes back in a brand new box with a new owner's manual too.

So, it is a lot like leasing except you don't have to turn it in at the end. If you want to upgrade to the next technology they have, you can send it in....turn around both times was only about 2 days. If not, you can keep it the way it is.

The first upgrade came about 1998 where they dramatically improved sensistivity, reduced falsing, added the "sliding KA" band. Definately worth it at the time.

The second (for me) was when they added Laser reception. That one added about an eighth of an inch to the bottom where the new circuitry was added. You can see it in the picture. This made it a bit heavier and required larger suction cups to hold it on the window....included of course. The current model has been downsized back to the original size and is lighter and the cups are back to the smaller size. This upgrade also added non-volatile memory so that it would power back up in the same mode you powered down in.

Now that I live in the Atlanta area, I get about 80% of the attacks via laser. Laser detection, albeit hit and miss, a must have here.

Now I skipped a few of the updates they offered over time...The website allows you to kick in your serial number and they give you the exact changes that are available as compared to what you have already...They even go as far as recommending that you upgrade or just wait for the next big change. (as in the current situation for my oldest one)

I also like knowing that they track the owners of each unit in their system so that if a V1 comes in for upgrade and it didn't come from the registered owner, they have a protocol in place to identify if the unit is stolen or not.
(and pass that info on for action)


(no I don't work for V1, but I sure could be a salesman for them)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the info! I have an Escort 7500 which does pretty well. It doesn't hurt to check out the competition. If I plan to upgrade, I'll probably go to the V1.
 

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You missed the BIGGEST selling point of the V1 !

The direction arrows ! ! !

The V1 tells you where the signal is commin from.....once you live with the arrows, you will never know how you survived w/o them!

I have upgraded my V1 3 times since purchased in 1999. Total upgrade cost was about $275 ($175 + $40 + $60) When I did the $175 upgrade they send me a totally NEW detector! I now have the smaller lazer case & the Ka POP mode protection (Instant on Ka is Deadly!!) If I was to upgrade every time the other dector company "upgraded" their product it would have cost $299 X 3 upgrades = $897 (vs. V1 $399 + $275 = $674) Total saved buying a V1 that is "current" = $223!

Just remember the best radar detector is only the best defense.......you can still get a ticket!

TL
 

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I wouldn't trade my V1 for anything!!! I have tried ALL of the big detectors, and the radar detection itself on all of them are close. But once you have the arrows, you will NEVER want to be without them again! :D
 

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I even installed the remote display for my V1 on the right hand side of the dash next to the steering column. The V1 works great and the remote display looks fine mounted down there IMHO
 
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