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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having trouble on ignition starting. Have replaced PGMFI relay (not this), the fuel pump is running normal while cranking, good battery and starter turns good, but still multiple attempts to achieve start. Could it be the crank shaft position sensor..?? 2006 Ridgeline...PS: Where is the crank shaft position sensor (is it near starter?) and is it hard to change? Truck runs good with no error signal once it starts. Also is there another relay (other than the PGMFI that affects ignition? Appreciate any advice.
 

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Welcome to the ROC:cheerleader:
 

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Doesn't look too bad to replace. Then again, nothing is impossible to the man who doesn't have to do it. ;)





 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks speedlever. Has anyone experienced hard starting due to the ckp sensor, is this a common problem, and is there an error code generated (or other warning light) or other symptom to point to a faulty ckp?... before I pay a shop to replace the ckp and miss a possible other electronic problem causing hard starting? As previous, I have replaced the PGMFI (no effect) and still wonder if another relay might be the problem? Any other common (electronic) complaints for hard starting and possible solution(s)?
 

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I would blame the battery 1st - One battery that came with my Ridgeline only made it 6 months. The ridgeline is a computer with wheels - not enough juice at startup means confused computers. I would not blame a relay as they usually fail open (except horn which seem to always fail closed).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks larryr. I checked battery 1st even though RTL cranks strong and long. Fuel pump seems to hum on key turn properly. So I began down this road of looking for something electronic especially PGMFI relay from past recall history on this truck with similar no start issue. Symptom points to ckp or other electronic issue. Don't want to replace items that cost several hundred bucks without more confidence in what is at fault. Diagnosis tough without more history on similar Ridgelines/Honda 3.5 V 6's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Diagnosis tough without more history on similar Ridgelines/Honda 3.5 V 6's. I have replaced both relays that affect fuel ignition? I have replaced the notorious PGMFI (blue) and another troubled relay (brown) that is named: Fuel Injection Relay -- Computer Control? No change, so now I question: Is there any reason to believe that engine coolant temp sensor (ECT) is keeping truck from starting? Problem is worst when weather is hot and /or when engine is hot and short runs. Are there other temperature sensors with parameters (amounts of fuel and ignition compensation) in the engine control management that could be causing hard starting, but smooth running after start?

Engine temp sensor(s) with parameters that may be causing hard starting?
 

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Hard to see the CKP failing without throwing a P0335, P0339, P0385, or P0389 code.

Since you say its not throwing a code, the things I would check first would be:

1) a load test on the battery (you didn't say how you had checked it previously)
2) check the fuel pressure
3) clean the throttle body

The other item would be to check the immobilizer system, but that should be throwing an indicator light on the dash

Also, there are two PGMFI relays both very near to each other. The main relay is in the middle of the top bank of three. The fuel pump relay is the closest to the driver in the lower bank of four. Which did you replace? The air/fuel sensor relay is number three from the driver in the bank of four.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you Elkhunter. I believe the highest probable cause is electronic (since after start engine runs smooth), so eliminating the CKP for now I will replace the second of the two "PGMFI" relays, middle of the top bank of three, having replaced the blue lower relay closest to the driver. Thanks for providing advice and location on the above. I will follow up with the list of actions, esp. 1) and 2), if 2nd relay is not the solution. Hopefully I am on the most logically path (and least expensive approach) to getting the right answer for my hard starting problem. Thanks for your suggestions. I will report any progress I make.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No change, so now I question: Is there any reason to believe that engine coolant temp sensor (ECT) is keeping truck from starting? Problem is worst when weather is hot and /or when engine is hot and short runs. Are there other temperature sensors with parameters (amounts of fuel and ignition compensation) in the engine control management that could be causing hard starting, but smooth running after start?

Engine temp sensor(s) with parameters that may be causing hard starting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Battery (and starter) passed load testing, and most mechanics doubt it is the fuel pump. Some one or another faulty electronics seems most logical issue at this point? (Engine temp sensor(s) with parameters that may be causing hard starting?) Also, Can anyone explain how to run idle learn procedure?
 

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I had a similar hard/no start on my Isuzu p/u. Went through a number of items, no codes. Turned out to be voltage regulator. Replaced it (and the alternator while at it) and now it starts and runs like a watch again.

Our Ridges are MUCH more complex than my old Isuzu but the basics are the same.

Have you tried replacing the voltage reg? Its a relatively cheap part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Battery (and starter) passed load testing, fuel system good, and most PGM electronics checked and/or replaced, so FINALLY decided to have Honda dealer scan system/OBD and have identified immobilizer as failing to recognize original keys as CAUSE of failed attempts!!
Switching to start position (#2) several times gets the old immobilizer (103k miles) to recognize key. Have ordered new immobilizer. REQUEST ROC member reply with immobilizer rreplacement procedure. Thanks to expert advice received here to ID my problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I suspect that speedlever and elkhunter are right on in that only the first 6 steps of shop procedure without messing with the steering wheel were performed by the dealer to replace the receiver only of the immobilizer system. The tech wanted to replace the "sender" part as well, but the receiver replacement seems to have fixed the problem, for now anyway?. Glad my truck starts and only $67 for part (receiver) though the $140 for labor seems high for receiver right at the ignition switch. Success! Thanks to all!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
:cheerleader:
I suspect that speedlever and elkhunter are right on in that only the first 6 steps of shop procedure without messing with the steering wheel were performed by the dealer to replace the receiver only of the immobilizer system. The tech wanted to replace the "sender" part as well, but the receiver replacement seems to have fixed the problem, for now anyway?. Glad my truck starts and only $67 for part (receiver) though the $140 for labor seems high for receiver right at the ignition switch. Success! Thanks to all!!
 
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