[WOODY92]

Yesterday I attempted the install for the turn signal relay modification with installing the .12 ohm 1W resistors. I have front and rear turn signal cree leds.

I soldered the .12 ohm 1W resistor in and then plugged it into the truck. *with incandescent front turn signals and led rear turn signals. It actually worked great! But I wanted to replace the front ones so I replaced one and checked it and then everything stopped. only the hazards would work so I replaced the other turn signal with the LED and it worked only with hazards and then not much longer nothing worked.

I took out the turn signal relay and noticed it had blown the .12 ohm resistor and also the primary box fuses #8 and #16 both being 15W Fuses. I checked the secondary under hood fuse box and the turn signal 7.5W isn't blown.

So I replaced the fuses and changed the .12 ohm resistor so nothing blown and nothing works.

As of now I have removed the resistor and put the original setup back on the turn signal relay box. I am not sure what I need to do next.

Is there another fuse I am missing?

 

[zroger73]

A 0.12 Ω load at 12 VDC is 1,000 watts of power and 100 amps of current. Of course the resistor overheated and the fuses opened!

Edit: I wondered where you got the idea for that resistor and found this. After reading some of the replies, it appears different people had to install different values of resistors to get the blinking rate correct.

 

[WOODY92]

Yeah I read it on a forum on here that when replacing 4, around 450 mA that just using a .12 would work. I was definitely mistaken. Even when I purchased this a review said they bought these and worked for their Honda. So I was definitely mistaken.

But after doing much research I believe the turn signal LEDs that I have are stronger than the original. They claim they are 10W which may be true but they have 12 Cree SMD 5050 chips that are rated at 60mA each. And a Q5 that could be from 300-700mA for just one. So that's a lot of bulb.

I went ahead and bought a new turn signal relay and the 4 LEDS still blew the fuses. So now I have 2x5W LEDS in the rear and incandescent in the front again.

Not sure what to do with the 10W. Loved them when they were on but not sure if aa modification can handle that much amps.

What do you think?

 

[WOODY92]

And now that I think about it. They reisitor worked properly when I had two incandescent bulbs in the front and 2 leds in the back. It went to the normal turn signal timing.

 

[WOODY92]

Actually I think when I had one blinker in and one out. I messed it up. .12 ohm 1 watt worked. Thanks for yor help though

 

[WOODY92]

SOLUTION : resistors I used was correct. Front turn signal LED was CK style which has ground on same side instead of opposing. I changed bulbs from regular to CK and everything works!

 

[COOPER_ABQ]

Woody, not to steal your thread, but Im having turn signal problems as well...


While I am not replacing anything with LED, my turn signals and hazards are not working properly. They are working intermittently with a crackling/buzzing noise underneath the dash, Ive checked the fuses and all are intact, I took it to the stealership, they said they cleaned the contacts, and a day later the crackling/buzzing returned. They also said the part was $80, and the labor $110. Ridiculous to pay more for labor than parts...does anyone have a part number or instructions on how to replace the turn signal stalk??

 

[speedlever]

Replacing the turn signal combo switch involves working around SRS components. Be very careful if you DIY.

Page 20-83

Page 17-24 (hopefully step 6 is all you need)

 

[COOPER_ABQ]

Speedlever you so ROC!!! You are the 411 for RL info....Did I miss the part number for the combination switch control unit? I read through it twice and didnt find it.


Nvm, I found it on my own, (35256-SJC-A01) but thanks for the teardown and replace diagrams!!!

 

[Dnick]

Helpin' out here (maybe?):

This was for '07 RTS. Don't know for sure exactly which part or assembly you're looking for, but it should be here? (combo switch is comprised of items 12 & 13????.... hopefully you only need #13!)

 

[COOPER_ABQ]

Thanks Dnick,

Im hoping so too, so far Majestic has the best online prices....

 

[COOPER_ABQ]

So Majestic did have the lowest part price around, including my 2 local stealerships, they each wanted $80 for the part, and another $110 to install. This replacement took all of an hour, thanks to Speedlever and Dnick for the excellent graphic diagrams. I first turned the steering wheel 90* to the left so I could work through the larger opening, lowered the steering column to its lowest point, and placed the shift lever to 1st gear. Make sure you have your radio security code, and THEN disconnect the battery. I found that removing the upper dashboard cover would allow more access to the control arm than the lower. Once that was out of the way, its just a matter of 3 screws underneath and prying the steering column covers apart for better access. Disconnecting the wire harness was the hardest part since it is facing away and the clip release is underneath. Two more smaller screws to remove on the control arm, and the unit slides out easily to the left. Install the new control arm, and replace all parts in reverse order.
The replacement was a success, however, there's still some hesitation in the turn signals/4way flashers, and the crackling/shorting out noise isn't as prominent, but it is still there, which makes me think there's a connection problem underneath that I can't solve. I've rechecked all fuses including the secondaries under the hood, all are intact....whats next??

It doesn't matter which position the steering wheel is in for turning, the blinkers still fail as do the 4way.

 

[COOPER_ABQ]

Almost a month, and the problem remains, I was hoping to find a solution from the forum, before turning my RL back over to the stealership....

 

[Elkhunter]

I would try the hazard/turn signal relay in the lower fusebox.. Would cost you somewhere between $12 and $40 depending on which brand you get. The lower price is for the old style relay. Honda had some issues and went to a different manufacturer. I'd go with the $12 one. If it works and happens again years down the road, then upgrade

 

[COOPER_ABQ]

Elkhunter!

Found that part # on Amazon of all places...$20 plus free 2 day shipping for being a prime member...removed the lower dash panel, pushed the parking brake all the way in, grabbed the slip joint pliers and gave a mighty tug, luckily without breaking the retaining clips. Installed the new relay, and voila! Turn signals and hazard lights are back in working fashion! If I'm back in Cali again, remind me I owe you a 6-pack and a stogie! lol, (I used to live in Redondo) Thank you again, Elkhunter, Dnick, and Speedlever for your research and assistance!! You guys ROC!!:act035:

 

[jefferson6599]

Have the same issue... just replaced my relay, after reading this, and nothing... No blinkers or hazard lights. Could there be a problem with the new relay?

 

[speedlever]

Have the same issue... just replaced my relay, after reading this, and nothing... No blinkers or hazard lights. Could there be a problem with the new relay?

Assuming you're just jumping in and have not posted elsewhere about this, first, do you have a hitch and the associated wiring harness installed? OEM or 3rd party?

 

[jefferson6599]

Assuming you're just jumping in and have not posted elsewhere about this, first, do you have a hitch and the associated wiring harness installed? OEM or 3rd party?

after market wiring harness for my trailer. That was installed the week I picked up my 2006, in May of '06. I am starting to think it might have something to do with this. Replaced relay, and 15a hazard fuse, and it worked, but now I am just blowing the fuses...

Assume there has to be a short somewhere in the circuit

 

[speedlever]

Yep, this a typical failure scenario for a 3rd party harness. They typically work for a while but when they fail, the symptoms rarely point to the harness as the issue. But time after time, we've heard the same story and it generally comes back to the harness.

The OEM harness isolates the truck electrics from the trailer electrics. It's definitely worth the price, especially if you self-install and eliminates those pesky electrical issues caused by 3rd party harnesses.

 

[jefferson6599]

3rd party harness was the issue... Removed it the other night and replaced the fuse, no issues. Wondering if the hazard/blinker relay needed replacing???

Either way, new wiring harness on the way, and the ridgeline is going away in December. Just need 6 more months.