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I've tried finding what I'm looking for, but not having any luck. Is there a double din touch screen hu that I can get and install and not have to do anything extra to still have the same sound, if not better? I dont want to lose sound quality or sub sound. I also want to still be able to use my steering wheel controls. Thanks in advance. Oh yeah, I have a '09 rtl
 

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I don't believe any aftermarket radio will be able to power the sub and still keep same sound. You would need a 5 channel 2-ohm stable. I will poke around on crutchfield.

I have the small alpine amp that fits behind the dash and is wired up with the pioneer headunit. It was simple( atleast for me) and the steering wheel controller as well which was slightly more difficult to program etc.

Do you have a budget?
 

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I've tried finding what I'm looking for, but not having any luck. Is there a double din touch screen hu that I can get and install and not have to do anything extra to still have the same sound, if not better? I dont want to lose sound quality or sub sound. I also want to still be able to use my steering wheel controls. Thanks in advance. Oh yeah, I have a '09 rtl
I am in the exact situation you are in and am still in the process of trying different things. Below are my thoughts so far and a few of the many threads on ROC that have been immensely helpful for me. There is a lot of information to wade through but hopefully you will find it helpful in your decision-making process. I am not done yet but only have spare time on weekends and will continue to update my progress here.

Sony XAV-AX7000 - Audio experts please chime in

I chose to go with the Sony XAV-AX7000 because of its built in 4 X 45w RMS amp and ability to run in “sub direct mode” @ 2 ohms off of a single rear channel. This video shows the AX7000 putting out nearly 100w RMS @ 2 ohms in sub direct mode.


At CES the AX7000 was shown powering 4 speakers and 2 10” subs.


Also, the AX5000 and AX7000 allow you to custom program basic steering wheel controls without the need for an additional interface.

Based on that information you would think that the AX7000 would be the near perfect solution, only losing front/rear fade due to running 4 speakers on 2 channels. But after wiring everything up and giving it a listen, something was horribly wrong. The sub sounded grossly underpowered and everything sounded hollow.

Since then I have been in trouble shooting mode and here is what I have found and will be trying this weekend:

Even though I have triple checked the wiring on my Metra harness, I decided to use the polarity checker app due to the hollow sounding door speakers. It is telling me that my speakers are out of phase, which is strange because that was my first thought and I did check the wiring many times. Maybe my factory harness is different?

@OhSix seems to be the most knowledgeable in this area and I would love to hear his thoughts on possible problems.

Also, a friend gave me a Kicker PXA200.1 that I am going to wire to the factory sub.

So, on tap for this weekend is to check the speaker outs on my AX7000 with a multimeter and reverse the wiring on my door speakers. If everything sounds as it should, I will re-try sub direct mode with the correct wiring. Since I now have a Kicker PXA200.1, I am going to give it a try even if everything sounds fine in sub direct mode, just to see how it works. If it works well, I may go with the $150 cheaper AX5000 and run the factory sub from the Kicker amp.

Long story short: If everything sounds as it did with the factory hu after re-wiring the speakers in sub direct mode, the AX7000 may be the best option for minimal wiring (no external amp for sub and only losing front/rear fade).

Helpful threads:

In this thread @csimo documents his install and has some great photos of the factory sub. It is from 2005, but to my knowledge the sub did not change in later revisions.
Upgrade the subwoofer?

Here @crxrdgln indicates that the sub is running on 40 watts from the factory HU. (Which makes it even more perplexing that my initial idea with the AX7000 did not seem to work. Maybe I did something wrong.)
Small amp to power factory sub

This is a fantastic thread that includes a ton of useful information from @OhSix and @laserguy. Including laserguy pointing out that the factory sub is 2.3 ohms.
Couple of audio upgrades
 

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Do you have a budget?
Not necessarily, but dont want to spend a whole lot. Would like to keep the bill as low as possible and the install as easy as possible. I'm not new to installs, but it has been quite a while since I've done anything extensive.

Also, thank you very much for the reply. Really appreciate the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am in the exact situation you are in and am still in the process of trying different things. Below are my thoughts so far and a few of the many threads on ROC that have been immensely helpful for me. There is a lot of information to wade through but hopefully you will find it helpful in your decision-making process. I am not done yet but only have spare time on weekends and will continue to update my progress here.

Sony XAV-AX7000 - Audio experts please chime in

I chose to go with the Sony XAV-AX7000 because of its built in 4 X 45w RMS amp and ability to run in “sub direct mode” @ 2 ohms off of a single rear channel. This video shows the AX7000 putting out nearly 100w RMS @ 2 ohms in sub direct mode.


At CES the AX7000 was shown powering 4 speakers and 2 10” subs.


Also, the AX5000 and AX7000 allow you to custom program basic steering wheel controls without the need for an additional interface.

Based on that information you would think that the AX7000 would be the near perfect solution, only losing front/rear fade due to running 4 speakers on 2 channels. But after wiring everything up and giving it a listen, something was horribly wrong. The sub sounded grossly underpowered and everything sounded hollow.

Since then I have been in trouble shooting mode and here is what I have found and will be trying this weekend:

Even though I have triple checked the wiring on my Metra harness, I decided to use the polarity checker app due to the hollow sounding door speakers. It is telling me that my speakers are out of phase, which is strange because that was my first thought and I did check the wiring many times. Maybe my factory harness is different?

@OhSix seems to be the most knowledgeable in this area and I would love to hear his thoughts on possible problems.

Also, a friend gave me a Kicker PXA200.1 that I am going to wire to the factory sub.

So, on tap for this weekend is to check the speaker outs on my AX7000 with a multimeter and reverse the wiring on my door speakers. If everything sounds as it should, I will re-try sub direct mode with the correct wiring. Since I now have a Kicker PXA200.1, I am going to give it a try even if everything sounds fine in sub direct mode, just to see how it works. If it works well, I may go with the $150 cheaper AX5000 and run the factory sub from the Kicker amp.

Long story short: If everything sounds as it did with the factory hu after re-wiring the speakers in sub direct mode, the AX7000 may be the best option for minimal wiring (no external amp for sub and only losing front/rear fade).

Helpful threads:

In this thread @csimo documents his install and has some great photos of the factory sub. It is from 2005, but to my knowledge the sub did not change in later revisions.
Upgrade the subwoofer?

Here @crxrdgln indicates that the sub is running on 40 watts from the factory HU. (Which makes it even more perplexing that my initial idea with the AX7000 did not seem to work. Maybe I did something wrong.)
Small amp to power factory sub

This is a fantastic thread that includes a ton of useful information from @OhSix and @laserguy. Including laserguy pointing out that the factory sub is 2.3 ohms.
Couple of audio upgrades
Thank you very much for the reply and links. Appreciate it.
 

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Not necessarily, but dont want to spend a whole lot. Would like to keep the bill as low as possible and the install as easy as possible. I'm not new to installs, but it has been quite a while since I've done anything extensive.

Also, thank you very much for the reply. Really appreciate the help.

Understood. I think you will be in the 4-6 range depending on features you must have etc.


That combo will do everything you need. (unless you want to play cd's still) And from crutchfield you can have them do most of the wiring for you for an extra charge to make it even easier. And then you would just need to run the wiring for the amp and tap into the factory sub wires. Not too difficult but will take some attention and patience.

or you could go with really any head unit you would like...around $200 seems to be a sweet spot for decent features/quality. then get the KTP-445U power pack which is about $190. That power pack runs off the head unit power so no separate wiring to the battery.

car audio is a slippery slope man.
 

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Understood. I think you will be in the 4-6 range depending on features you must have etc.


That combo will do everything you need. (unless you want to play cd's still) And from crutchfield you can have them do most of the wiring for you for an extra charge to make it even easier. And then you would just need to run the wiring for the amp and tap into the factory sub wires. Not too difficult but will take some attention and patience.

or you could go with really any head unit you would like...around $200 seems to be a sweet spot for decent features/quality. then get the KTP-445U power pack which is about $190. That power pack runs off the head unit power so no separate wiring to the battery.

car audio is a slippery slope man.
That Alpine combo from Crutchfield looks really interesting and I would love to hear from anyone who has had experience with it. Looks like it could be a nice option for people wanting to keep their factory speakers and sub.

They also have this mono amp that fits behind the same HU, but 200 watts seems overkill for the factory sub:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
get the KTP-445U power pack which is about $190. That power pack runs off the head unit power so no separate wiring to the battery.
It's saying I would need a wiring kit for this. Or should I get the ktp-445a that has wires already connected to it? The a is cheaper than the u though for some reason, yet they seem to be the same thing.
 

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It's saying I would need a wiring kit for this. Or should I get the ktp-445a that has wires already connected to it? The a is cheaper than the u though for some reason, yet they seem to be the same thing.

The 445U is universal. It does not NEED it's own wiring harness in the Ridge. The ridge can power both the headunit and amp together. Some cars would require a separate harness.

The 445A is only for alpine headunits. It plugs right into the headunit.

Being as you are only using the amp for the sub. 95% of the wires will not be used. Only 5? wires will be used out of the harness.

Dang..looks like they changed it since I bought it. I have a remote sub level that i put in my glove box. I dont see the plug on the new 445u...It was nice in the beginning if I wanted to listen to rock id lower it down for a little tighter bass or if i was in a gangster mood id turn it up a bit for a boomy-er sound. Does not look like it accepts a remote anymore.

Besides running wires to the battery I think the all in one alpine kit would be your best bet unless it is over budget then I would go with the 445u and whatever headunit fits the bill.


EDIT: So I actually have the ktp-190u which has been discontinued but is the same concept as these. Just has a little more power and has the remote level input.
 

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They also have this mono amp that fits behind the same HU, but 200 watts seems overkill for the factory sub:
Yea I think max volume would be like 10 before it starts crying lol. Would probably be good for the kicker upgrade that people do.
 

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Some people who have installed Alpine units complain that Alpine offers very little support (updates) for their receivers, if that matters to you.
 
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