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The radiator and transmission posts in these forums have been great. It just happened to me and I would have been lost without them. The trouble is, I found a Honda radiator (19010-RJE-A52) on Amazon for $140.00 and it arrived with a manufacturing defect; it is trapezoid shaped. Yes, that's right. So I looked for a new one and prices are $300.00 to $500.00. https://www.hondapartsunlimited.com was reasonable but want $200.00 shipping!!!

So my question to the forum is, does anyone have any recent experience with the aftermarket companies? Spectra was good but seemed to have problems. I don't mind paying a bit of a premium for high quality but $500.00 over the counter at my dealer is absurd. Any other thoughts appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 

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I went with the Spectra Premium for our 2006 Pilot and it works fine. It’s been 2 years with no issues. When my 2010 Ridgeline is ready for replacement, I plan to buy a Spectra
 

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The radiator and transmission posts in these forums have been great. It just happened to me and I would have been lost without them. The trouble is, I found a Honda radiator (19010-RJE-A52) on Amazon for $140.00 and it arrived with a manufacturing defect; it is trapezoid shaped. Yes, that's right. So I looked for a new one and prices are $300.00 to $500.00. https://www.hondapartsunlimited.com was reasonable but want $200.00 shipping!!!

So my question to the forum is, does anyone have any recent experience with the aftermarket companies? Spectra was good but seemed to have problems. I don't mind paying a bit of a premium for high quality but $500.00 over the counter at my dealer is absurd. Any other thoughts appreciated.

Thanks in advance
No recent experience, but I do have an opinion. Actually, many many opinions, but specific to radiators.... :)

Of all the options I'm aware of, Denso makes the most sense to me. Reasoning:
1) They are OEM supplier to Honda.
2) They have a adopted the "new improved" trans fluid heat exchange port mechanism which *should* eliminate the possibility of coolant/ATF mixing if/when a port failure occurs.

As a side note, I have direct experience with Denso as an ODM in a completely different tech sector (circuit card sub-assemblies) and I gotta say, Denso is dead serious about quality standards and ISO compliance.
Every tid-bit and major component they produce for the automotive sector is true world class.

I haven't shopped so can't comment on pricing, but if Denso gets stupid money for their product, the OSC I purchased a couple years back is flawlessly doing it's job with no sign of impending doom.
At the time of purchase, it seemed to offer the best balance of mechanical/design integrity and cost.

One caveat: my out-of-box experience was not good. After installing the new OSC rad and dumping in a gallon of Honda coolant, she leaked like a kitchen strainer. They made it right and hand delivered a replacement, but warranty only covers the hardware and nothing else. As trouble goes, it was a PITA but they did handle the issue expeditiously.

BTW: the first OSC had a similar tweak in the structure, she absolutely wasn't square - I didn't heed the warning and plummeted boldly forward like the amateur I am. So, for that part, I own the wasted coolant is totally on me.

Best of luck. Updates to follow?
 

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I went with this one (Denso) from RockAuto for $127 plus shipping.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4722402&cc=1433449&jsn=359

Some people had issues with their shipping, don't know what to say about those. I think that possibility could happen anytime a radiator is shipped. But for me, I've always had nothing but success stories with them. Fast delivery, parts packed well, and good prices.
 

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Concerning the one you have that is mis shaped, Its not uncommon for the cores to get "racked" in shipping as there isnt anything on the radiator to keep it square, it will bend back into shape. Previous job we made and sold thousands of the old style radiators and the newer aluminum/plastic ones. The old style didnt do this too bad but the new ones rack very easliy. As long as it shows no physical damage to the core it should be fine. Even if you receive it and its square doesnt mean it wasnt racked before it was packaged so always check over good for physical damage to the core.
 

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I went with this one (Denso) from RockAuto for $127 plus shipping.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4722402&cc=1433449&jsn=359

Some people had issues with their shipping, don't know what to say about those. I think that possibility could happen anytime a radiator is shipped. But for me, I've always had nothing but success stories with them. Fast delivery, parts packed well, and good prices.
I went with the Denso from RockAuto as well. This was after the Spectra from Amazon began to leak after a week.

So far, so good with the Denso.
 

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I have the TYC 13065 from RockAuto that I got for $105 shipped. I have put on approximately 32,000 miles on them in the last 18 months and it is going fine. I changed the upper & lower hose, along with the thermostat. Needless to say the coolant was changed as you will loose a ton of coolant. My Temps usually ride around 170~175F. No issues so far.

OEM from Bernardi is $300 shipped (ground).
 

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Concerning the one you have that is mis shaped, Its not uncommon for the cores to get "racked" in shipping as there isnt anything on the radiator to keep it square, it will bend back into shape. Previous job we made and sold thousands of the old style radiators and the newer aluminum/plastic ones. The old style didnt do this too bad but the new ones rack very easliy. As long as it shows no physical damage to the core it should be fine. Even if you receive it and its square doesnt mean it wasnt racked before it was packaged so always check over good for physical damage to the core.
Wow. I'll give it a try first and then check for leaks. Amazon already gave me an RA.
 

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SOO how come all of you are changing rads ???? Didn't change the coolant at the right time ????
Addition to the extensive list of what @Carsmak posted, it is best practice to keep your cooling system, an integral part of a healthy engine, in good shape. When you are nearing 200K miles, you never know when the factory radiator will give and I do not want to find out it croaked when I am on the side of the road with steam coming out of my hood. For around $200 bux, you should be able to get a radiator, coolant, coolant fill funnel, thermostat, and upper & radiator hoses. Doing it at home is a 3 hour process and you get an opportunity to check other stuff and also clean up that engine bay a bit.

One of many proactive changes that gets these trucks going strong over 200K with great ease. I have a feeling that my 2.5 year old will learn how to drive in my truck.
 

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Geez -- Got a 06 with 225000 mi on it but changed fluids 50000 mi ago - didn't know all those posts as I am kind of new here . I farm and do all my own mechanical on equipment so when ridge was getting up in mileage I knew that it was time to change fluids and long life AF doesn't mean forever it does break down over time as seen on the bigger equipment . Talking about cavitated cylinder liners on diesel engines and leaking rads . Haven't found a decent test on long life AF like there is on diesel AF .
 

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Concerning the one you have that is mis shaped, Its not uncommon for the cores to get "racked" in shipping as there isnt anything on the radiator to keep it square, it will bend back into shape. Previous job we made and sold thousands of the old style radiators and the newer aluminum/plastic ones. The old style didnt do this too bad but the new ones rack very easliy. As long as it shows no physical damage to the core it should be fine. Even if you receive it and its square doesnt mean it wasnt racked before it was packaged so always check over good for physical damage to the core.
Thank-you WKF, I straightened the radiator by putting it down on a corner and pushing it back in to shape. Installed and run for an hour and no leaks.

I did find a cool use for the filling funnels, though. By leaving it half filled, a good bit of the ATF floats out of the radiator as it floats by and up to the surface of the funnel half filled with water. Not sure how long it will take but I am flushing it the best I can. Then will replace the anti-freeze when done. Three exchanges of ATF and it still looks bad. But according to the charts listed elsewhere, it still has 20% of the contaminated atf in it. I guess I'll buy one more case.

Thanks again, you saved a radiator return and more frustration.
 

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Thank-you WKF, I straightened the radiator by putting it down on a corner and pushing it back in to shape. Installed and run for an hour and no leaks.

I did find a cool use for the filling funnels, though. By leaving it half filled, a good bit of the ATF floats out of the radiator as it floats by and up to the surface of the funnel half filled with water. Not sure how long it will take but I am flushing it the best I can. Then will replace the anti-freeze when done. Three exchanges of ATF and it still looks bad. But according to the charts listed elsewhere, it still has 20% of the contaminated atf in it. I guess I'll buy one more case.

Thanks again, you saved a radiator return and more frustration.
I was not aware you had smod...
Yes you will see floating for a while..buy a denso cap because the fluid will expand the rubber gaskets and leak..
And mypics and story.. i usedthe overflow bottle to skim out tranny fluid.

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com...es/211138-just-turned-200000-miles-oh-no.html
 

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I was not aware you had smod...
Yes you will see floating for a while..buy a denso cap because the fluid will expand the rubber gaskets and leak..
And mypics and story.. i usedthe overflow bottle to skim out tranny fluid.

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com...es/211138-just-turned-200000-miles-oh-no.html
It took about 8 cool and heat cycles with water and flush to get to a minimal amount coming to the top. Then I flushed twice with distilled water. Then drained and added coolant. The last few flushes had a few drops of oil but after the coolant was added it was gone. I am now finished and let the driving begin. I have a second cap at the ready. Thanks.
 

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It took about 8 cool and heat cycles with water and flush to get to a minimal amount coming to the top. Then I flushed twice with distilled water. Then drained and added coolant. The last few flushes had a few drops of oil but after the coolant was added it was gone. I am now finished and let the driving begin. I have a second cap at the ready. Thanks.
If it was me, in say 3-6 months, I would plan on replacing the radiator hoses including heater hoses and thermostat and do another flush or DnF of the cooling system. @interpon I don’t remember did you or are you looking at doing something similar now that you are fairly certain that you “escaped SMOD”?
 

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If it was me, in say 3-6 months, I would plan on replacing the radiator hoses including heater hoses and thermostat and do another flush or DnF of the cooling system. @interpon I don’t remember did you or are you looking at doing something similar now that you are fairly certain that you “escaped SMOD”?
Hi, only changed cap because it would swell and leak, twice.
It just seemed to me the smod would seperate and rise to top like the cap area and cause issue and you can feel it on the rubber. I could not see or feel any sign of hose degredation.
At over 200,000 miles i suspect something may break but so far so good.
 

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2) They have a adopted the "new improved" trans fluid heat exchange port mechanism which *should* eliminate the possibility of coolant/ATF mixing if/when a port failure occurs.
Is this change present in the replacement radiators for the Ridgeline from Honda and / or Denso or did they just fix it on new production parts for newer vehicles?

Would be nice to have an OEM radiator without this issue.
 

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Is this change present in the replacement radiators for the Ridgeline from Honda and / or Denso or did they just fix it on new production parts for newer vehicles?

Would be nice to have an OEM radiator without this issue.
OEM Denso is a completely different radiator than aftermarket Denso.

OEM is (IMHO) a high quality unit that is most likely manufactured in Japan. It does still have the same transmission line fittings that it always has and can be prone to SMOD type failures.

Aftermarket Denso is made in China or other similar low cost of labor locations. Manufacturing and material qualities are probably not as good as OEM and there are ample reports of shipping damage issues from various suppliers of the aftermarket Denso (as well as other brands).

Basically, you should pick your poison carefully. Remember that all it takes is one overheating event to ruin your engine. Plenty of aftermarket radiators arrive in good shape and work just fine without the SMOD prone fittings. Some however have been delivered damaged or are defective after install. To me its a tough call to choose aftermarket or OEM . . .
 
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