I saw others with this issue but can't find it anymore. I have a 2008 Ridgeline with 130,000 miles on it (I've been the only owner). I also have the surge issue, it started about 6 months ago (summer 2014). When I am driving at exactly 45 MPH between +/-1200 and +/-1500 RPM on theTACH the engine surges. I think it is more apparent if going up a grade. If I keep it there I will hear what sounds like a flutter or blow-by noise. At 43 MPH nothing, at 47 MPH nothing only at 45 MPH does this happen. I am not sure if I would tie it to the TACH RPM because it varies and is not at one (1) constant TACH RPM when it happens. I was thinking the surging could be related to a computer chip about to go into failure mode.
Honda Ridgeline Engine Surge
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Rather than think doomsday (ie expensive) scenarios, I'm going to recommend that you
1: Put a big bottle of techron in the next tank $20
2: Clean the IAC-Can of cleaner under $10
3: Check and clear the EGR intake system. $20 for gasket and use leftover IAC cleaner plus shop rags and vacuum.
1: Put a big bottle of techron in the next tank $20
2: Clean the IAC-Can of cleaner under $10
3: Check and clear the EGR intake system. $20 for gasket and use leftover IAC cleaner plus shop rags and vacuum.
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Mine does the exact same thing. 2006 RTS. Im a new owner, and noticed it at the exact same speeds you mentioned.
I talked to the Honda dealer here in North Little Rock and they mentioned taking the valve cover off and clean out some ports inside the cover and along the head. They mentioned these ports can get clogged and cause this issue. I can fix your $60 million aircraft but am not a car mechanic so please excuse my ignorance what is the EGR intake and the IAC? Where are these located on the engine? I want to look into these areas. Thank you for your assistance.
This is from the Honda Pilot forum:http://www.piloteers.org/forums/18-maintenance/25692-diy-intake-manifold-egr-port-cleaning.html
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Exhaust gas recirculation, a nitrogen oxide ([[NOx]]) emissions reduction technique used in petrol/gasoline and diesel engines. EGR works by recirculating a portion of an engine's exhaust gas back to the engine cylinders.
Idle Air Control Valve, also known as the idle speed control valve -- regulates the idle speed of your engine.
Idle Air Control Valve, also known as the idle speed control valve -- regulates the idle speed of your engine.
This was great Thank you! I will first try the "big bottle" of TECHRON as suggested by "Rockwood" and see if this helps. The instructions from "coftym" and the http://www.piloteers.org/forums/18-m...-cleaning.htm l looks pretty straight forward. It looks like a new gasket runs around $50.00. And "henni" thanks for the explanation! Great help ya'll!
Ok Ya'll. update on the surge at 45 mph issue; 1) Techron, Seafoam, BG44K NO HELP! 2) cleaned EGR and replaced EGR solenoid NO HELP! 3) Replaced VTEC solenoid (oil pump) ... the oil screen was clogged with contaminates. this eliminated the P2646 OBD II Code. Replacing the oil pump reduced the surging by about 30%; but the Ridgeline still has a noticeable surging issue at 45 mph. I talked with a couple mechanics and they recommended checking out the "Throttle Position Sensor" .... Jury is still out! I will keep you posted!
Given your 'touching' on the solution with the VTEC "cleaning" (replaced clogged screen, etc.) actions you mention above, I suggest you go back to your own #5 post comments. VTEC activity goes on here (under valve cover in valve train/rocker assembly), and you may have similar bad (clogging) effect in this area as you were getting in the areas you already cleaned. This is just diagnostic intuition speaking.
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Isn't this the exact speed where the torque convertor is locking up in top gear?? MANY have reported "surging" type issues at this speed where the tranny can't seem to decide whether to lock the convertor or not.
As interpon mentioned much earlier . . .Have you serviced your transmission recently? Do the dump and fill 3 times with the new DW1 transmission fluid. It may help this problem but it also may be the nature of the beast to some degree .. .
As interpon mentioned much earlier . . .Have you serviced your transmission recently? Do the dump and fill 3 times with the new DW1 transmission fluid. It may help this problem but it also may be the nature of the beast to some degree .. .
Had very similar issues with several Pilots (04-07's same drivetrain) ) over the years buying and selling mostly Hondas/Acuras. I was bewildered and thought the tranny failing with the first one I bought. Tried two drain and fills with DW-1 but no change. Looked for many other solutions and still no luck until I read about possible torque convertor shudder causing the issue. I decided to try an friction modifier made by Lubegard called "Dr. Tranny Shudder Fix". Over the years I've tried many oil, fuel, and ATF additives and most of them do not work. This product works extremely well and cured the problem on every vehicle. I'm still in disbelief. I sold one of the Pilots to a friend over three years ago and the problem has not returned after 35K miles. Give it a try, cost only $6 at Carquest.
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478 Posts
X2 on the Lubegard. I used this one though in my Ridge as well as my wife's Benz with excellent results....no more hunting for gears on the Ridge.
LUBEGARD Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant
LUBEGARD Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant
Are those both the same product?
Instant Shudder Fixx
LUBEGARD Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant
Instant Shudder Fixx
LUBEGARD Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant
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478 Posts
The first one is an instant fix. I have this as well BUT haven't used it.
The second one is for long term preventive maintenance. I used this one because all major transmission rebuilders use and recommend this. It takes a while (2 or 3 drain and fills) before you see the full effect. I did a LOT of research on this product before I used it due to the complexity of the Honda trans and specific fluid demand.
A little extra reading: http://www.lubegard.com/testimonials.html#15
EDIT: You only add 1oz/quart or 3ozs per D+f ....comes in a 10oz bottle.
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I've had (2) Ridgelines; an 07 RTX and my current 08 RTL. Both have/had the shudder issue the entire time I owned them. I got the 07 with 18K on it and the 08 with 58K on it. As of late, my RTL's "shudder zone" has expanded to 43mph-55mph. I'm getting concerned. It had only been 28k since my last transmission fluid change but I had them go ahead and change it anyway. It didn't make any difference at all. I asked them about what people on here say about doing it three consecutive times and they said that, according to Honda, that's complete nonsense. They said the transmission is designed to run on 1/3 new fluid. Alrighty then.
But anyway, I'm going to try that Instant Shudder Fix and keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for the info.
EDIT: This might be a dumb question but I see the tube of ISF is only 2oz. Can I add it to the ATF without draining any of the existing fluid from the transmission?
But anyway, I'm going to try that Instant Shudder Fix and keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for the info.
EDIT: This might be a dumb question but I see the tube of ISF is only 2oz. Can I add it to the ATF without draining any of the existing fluid from the transmission?
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