[blackhawk6]

2020 RTL-E with about 15,000 miles. Driving to Nashville to attend the NWTF Convention and about half way through the trip, started to notice a slight flutter on the driver's side up near the windshield. Speed was 74 MPH. Was a windy day and did not at first think it was a problem. On the return trip, did not notice any unusual hood movements. When purchased on the test drive, got it up to about 95 MPH to see if I could induce hood flutter. Did not see any, so assumed Honda had remedied this problem. Removed the backing underneath the hood after the trip and noticed that the adhesive between the hood and the frame had failed at several applications on the driver's side. Took it in for service the next day and notified the service rep that I had hood flutter. His response was that he has never heard of it before. Someone else came over and verified this was a known issue with a published TSB. S/B 17-083 applied. Have not tested it yet but hopefully the 3M Ultrapro Autobody sealant (60100-TG7-A90ZZ) will do the trick. I guess the learning point from this is that over time, the autobody sealant can fail and cause the hood to detach from the frame. Feel this is a band aid fix and the problem is with the design of the hood. If the fix is to redesign the front end and add 32 lbs of steel hood, then I am all in. The problem with that is that I know what I have (no water leaks, 2021 wheels, and everything seems to work other than the hood). I am not sure what I will get with a newer version except out of pocket costs and a wireless charger that does not work. Will report if the fix works.

 

[MtMan]

The TSB 17-083 is not a temporary band-aid fix. I applied the sealant on both of mine 3 years ago and both are still rock solid. Its simple to fix, just need to apply a liberal amounts of sealant between the hood frame and hood skin at area's listed in the TSB, and any other area's you can get to. You look at the factory adhesive, you will see that it just lets go from the hood skin. Its just a primer surface that I bet was not fully cured when the factory adhesive was applied. Or a chemical miss match between the primer and the adhesive. Just my theory.

 

[blackhawk6]

Where did you get the sealant?

 

[MtMan]

Where did you get the sealant?

Amazon.com: 3M Ultrapro Autobody Sealant, 08300, Tan Color, High-Solids, Heavy-Bodied, Fast-Curing, Solvent-Based, 1/10 gal/10 fl oz Cartridge : Everything Else

Amazon.com: 3M Ultrapro Autobody Sealant, 08300, Tan Color, High-Solids, Heavy-Bodied, Fast-Curing, Solvent-Based, 1/10 gal/10 fl oz Cartridge : Everything Else

www.amazon.com

Its tan in color. But the blanket hides it.

 

[blackhawk6]

Thanks. On order

 

[tleavitt]

Hello all,

I had the hood recall performed a few weeks back. Before the recall, my hood bobbles a little bit, nothing more then some cars I have owned in the past. After the recall, my hood flaps around like its going to rip off, at least a centimeter more travel and Im concerned. Does this sound normal to any one else????

 

[longboat]

Hello all,

I had the hood recall performed a few weeks back. Before the recall, my hood bobbles a little bit, nothing more then some cars I have owned in the past. After the recall, my hood flaps around like its going to rip off, at least a centimeter more travel and Im concerned. Does this sound normal to any one else????

The minimum-wage techs probably knocked the aluminum loose from the support structure while banging on the hood to install the new plate.

If you're handy, you can fix it yourself properly with the correct adhesive (see further upstream in this thread); otherwise, you can trust those dealer techs to try to fix it.

 

[Dbruceb]

my 2019 had 55,000 miles when I contacted the dealer about hood flutter (out of warranty). took a handful of calls buy they repaired it...not perfect but close....and far better than it had been.

I recently bought a 2018 with 37K miles and a Honda Certified Car warranty... which the dealer tells me DOES NOT COVER the hood flutter problem. Service Bulletin 17-083 Dates back about 5 years... and the problem still seems to exist and PERSIST today.... Honda knows this is a problem... why not fix it. They should probably include a fix in the hood latch recall. I like the Ridgeline... but I think Honda quality is not what it used to be. My 2004 Pilot was solid.... The 2018 Ridgeline cuts a lot of corners. I also (like others) think the glue is a band aid fix... I would think the hood METAL would be stout enough on its own without having to glue a fiber board to the back to give it stiffness. I'm watching for a recall on this one!!!!

 

[Kevo]

There has been a lot written in this thread about the hood wobble. Glue is not a band aid when used properly in manufacturing a product. Lots of products use glue or epoxy with no issue. Lots of Hondas will operate for many years with no hood issues even though they are glued. Why Honda can't consistently and properly glue parts is certainly a good question. Manufacturers of industrial glues and epoxies publish specifications for proper application of their products to prevent this sort of issue. This is not the only area where Honda could sorely use some improvement either.

 

[RWH]

We'll add me to the list. Had the hood latch plate installed yesterday. Before the install the hood didn't shake or move. After it still doesn't move. Guess they got it right the first time.

 

[Pster]

Just took my 2022 through the car wash for the first time. With my 2018 the hood fluttered and flexed like a butterfly. Not the 2022 - the hood was rock solid with no fluttering or deflection.

 

[Ridgeline70]

My 2018 Ridgeline had hood flutter, 35K miles. 2 tubes of the 3M glue seems to have taken care of it.
😂😂👍

 

[Outfitter7]

If your hood is dancing around a lot then you need to get it fixed. It should not do that. It's a known problem with failed adhesive. You can read about it in this thread. The dealer should fix it under warranty or you can fix it yourself as well if you are out of warranty or don't trust the dealer to do a good job. The hood top is basically glued to the support structure underneath and if that glue fails it will move around a little or a lot depending on how many joints have failed.

 

[cwcarrera]

I used the 10 oz cartridge which is tan in color. No big deal, the blanket hides everything. Did my RL and Pilot 4 years ago, still rock solid. The 5 oz tube in clear, in my opinion would not be enough to do it right. You will find there are more glue spots on the hood that broke free then what is listed in the TSB.

Amazon.com: 3M Ultrapro Autobody Sealant, 08300, Tan Color, High-Solids, Heavy-Bodied, Fast-Curing, Solvent-Based, 1/10 gal/10 fl oz Cartridge : Everything Else

Amazon.com: 3M Ultrapro Autobody Sealant, 08300, Tan Color, High-Solids, Heavy-Bodied, Fast-Curing, Solvent-Based, 1/10 gal/10 fl oz Cartridge : Everything Else

www.amazon.com

Hey @MtMan, did you do any prep before you applied the sealant? I was looking on the 3M website at the direction for application and they say to 'lightly scuff' the painted surface and then clean to remove surface contaminants. It looks to me like it will be very dificult to get into that area to scuff and clean... wondering if it is necessary. Obviously it looks like your repair is holding up well (4+ years) so I'm just curious what you did as far as scuffing and cleaning. I only want to do this repair once, so any additional guidance you can give me would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[pete.klemm]

I have Honda Pilot 2016. In recent trip the hood was fluttering so bad it started to make noise like a trumpet. The first time it happened, I thought it was the truck I was passing honking it's horn. I had the hood latch replaced just months earlier and the flutter is even worse now. I'll call Honda directly if this issue is not resolved.

 

[MtMan]

Hey @MtMan, did you do any prep before you applied the sealant? I was looking on the 3M website at the direction for application and they say to 'lightly scuff' the painted surface and then clean to remove surface contaminants. It looks to me like it will be very dificult to get into that area to scuff and clean... wondering if it is necessary. Obviously it looks like your repair is holding up well (4+ years) so I'm just curious what you did as far as scuffing and cleaning. I only want to do this repair once, so any additional guidance you can give me would be appreciated. Thanks!

No prep. Both hoods are still rock solid.

 

[Kevo]

No prep. Both hoods are still rock solid.

If it were me I would have done at least some light sanding and cleaning of the surfaces for fear of having to do it all over again later. Glad to hear it worked out for you though.

 

[cwcarrera]

Thanks @MtMan for your input and guidance. I will be doing my repair within the next couple of weeks.

@Kevo, the problem is getting into the area where you need to do the prep. I think you would need to remove the hood from the vehicle and set it up on saw horses to have any chance of doing even minimal prep. I'm quite sure that if the dealer does the repair they do not do any sort of prep work... that would take extra time and the TSB does not specifically call out doing any prep.

Just my thoughts, hoping my repair goes smoothly.

 

[Kevo]

@Kevo, the problem is getting into the area where you need to do the prep. I think you would need to remove the hood from the vehicle and set it up on saw horses to have any chance of doing even minimal prep. I'm quite sure that if the dealer does the repair they do not do any sort of prep work... that would take extra time and the TSB does not specifically call out doing any prep.

Yeah, I wouldn't expect most dealer techs to really put in too much effort. It might not be necessary to do any prep and it may last like that. I just wouldn't do it that way myself. The fact so many have failed from the factory would make me want to take that extra effort. I can imagine it would be difficult to get where you need to, but if I could get sealant in there I'm sure I could work out how to do at least a light sanding and some cleaning first.

Either way I'm hoping your repair goes well and lasts the life of your truck.

 

[cwcarrera]

Yeah, I wouldn't expect most dealer techs to really put in too much effort. It might not be necessary to do any prep and it may last like that. I just wouldn't do it that way myself. The fact so many have failed from the factory would make me want to take that extra effort. I can imagine it would be difficult to get where you need to, but if I could get sealant in there I'm sure I could work out how to do at least a light sanding and some cleaning first.

Either way I'm hoping your repair goes well and lasts the life of your truck.

Thanks Kevo, and it is hard to argue with your logic about making at least some effort to prep the area. It has been a month or so since I have looked under the insulation pad to confirm the failure of the factory adhesive so I may re-visit the idea of trying to do some prep work when I actually go in to do the repair. If nothing else maybe I can get in there with a rag and some mineral spirits or lacquer thinner to do a little clean-up. Fingers crossed that I only have to do this repair once!