Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was just visiting a neat site called bobistheoilguy.com. I go there now and then to gather information from the true oil geeks about oils, filters and various auto lubrication needs (you can really learn a lot there - and get confused at the same time!!).

One thing that has intrigued me about our Ridgeline is the OLM (oil life monitor) system that calculates and tells us in percentages how much life expectancy is left in our oil. Accordingly, it makes service decisions for us rather than us going by some arbitrary figure like every xxxx miles/xx months oil change intervals. I really never knew how it worked.

At bobistheoilguy site, a GM engineer who assisted on developing their OLM started a thread about how this thing works. I think the most important part is as follows, "...oil life monitor counts engine revolutions and accumulates the number for the basis of the oil life calculation. It then adds deterioration factors for operating temperature, start up temperature, soak times, ambient, coolant temperature, etc... There are a lot of factors that "adjust" or affect the slope of the deterioration but the fundamental deterioration is traced back to the ZDP depletion that is inescapable with engine revolutions. The specific rate of ZDP depletion is readily measurable for any given engine so that is the fundamental item that is first calibrated for the oil life algorithm to tailor it specifically to that engine".

The engineer went on to say that following the OLM is not perfect under all conditions as to when to change oil but is still much better than most other methods. He also explained that synthetic oil can be used but is not necessary IF you follow the service schedule of the OLM, which assumes non-synthetic or "dino" oil.

Now, I am assuming that since this is a Honda and a new one at that, our Ridgeline will have an OLM that is similar or even more advanced than GM. If that assumption is correct, then it is safe to say that the engineers have calculated the software to the specific needs of our engine, since that is one of the most important aspects of an OLM because of the known ZDP depletion for that particular motor (of course, I'm not really sure I know what ZDP means).

I have never had an OLM before and was skeptical at first. Although I did not imagine HAL would be too far off base anyway, this explanation further reinforces my decision to rely on it rather than the 5,000 mile/six month oil change interval mentality I've used for the last many, many years. Just thought I'd put this out there in case anyone wondered about this neat little device Honda has given the Ridgeline.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
I live in the desert, so am pleased to hear there are so many factors in the formula related to temperature. I have experienced a heat related oil failure and it's not fun (nor cheap).

Thanks for this report!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
shortspark, enjoyed reading your very informative post, which helped me develop more confidence in the OLM. I particularly noted that the OLM is designed for dyno oil. I'm planning to use synthetic (Mobil 1) oil in my Ridgeline, which I guess can be viewed as an insurance policy (synthetic being "overkill", so to speak), since I'm also planning on using the OLM to tell me when it's time to change the oil. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I really don't think synthetic is "overkill" in some applications. Depending on how you drive, your climate, if you haul payloads or trailers, short trips/long trips, etc., you very well might need some extra protection which the synthetics provide. They also would come into play if HAL does not tell you to service for extended periods (a year or more).

I started a thread a few weeks ago asking people at what mileage their OLM signaled it was time for service. I also asked for their driving habits. The results varied which tells me the monitor really does take into consideration individual drivers rather than revolve around a universal (be it time or mileage). It seems most people required service at between 5,000-7,000 miles. That is a lot of miles under the old conventional way of thinking. Usually, it is not recommended that "dino" oils go that long as they often shear or break down (so to speak) somewhere in that range.

Synthetic oils on the other hand should last over 7,000 miles in most circumstances. Amsoil, Mobil One and Redline are examples of excellent synthetic oils that should take care of our engine quite well between the time HAL tells us to change oil (however, they are quite expensive). Most used oil analysis for synthetics prove this, however, not many analysis reports at over 7,000 miles are that favorable when using "dino" oil. Most reports I've read show them at the borderline at this point.

Motorcraft 5W20 is an excellent oil that is a synthetic "blend" and should go 7,000 miles without much problem. It has turned in excellent used oil analysis reports. At $1.88 a qt. at WallyWorld, this is a true bargain. Mobil has come out with its Clean 7500 which is geared for oil change intervals of (you guessed it) 7500 miles. Again, this should be just right for us.

The fact that the Ridgeline's OLM seems to require service (for most people) between the 5,000 and 7,000 mile mark, tells me that, depending on your climate and if driving the truck under constant stress and load or otherwise "severe" conditions, synthetic or semi-synthetic blend oils are probably the best bet for us IF you choose to go by the Ridgeline's oil life monitor. If you simply choose the traditional 3,000 mile oil change interval, any oil on the shelf will do.

Although the monitor is set up with dino oil in mind, the extra protection of synthetic out to the 7,000 mile mark may well be worth the extra few bucks for some people, especially those wanting to keep their truck for many years and miles.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,554 Posts
shortspark, very interesting and informative post. Thanks for your effeort.

When I first looked at the Engine Oil Life Display (EOLD) I thought, oh, it's just another gimmick or novelty that just monitored mileage driven and maybe time intervals.

But after reading your post I checked the manual and found that it DOES calculate remaining engine oil life based on engine operating conditions and (accumulated) engine rpm's. I read it before but didn't pay much attention to it. Page 225 of O.M.

Thanks for your investigation, you made me read it again. Looks like it's a great tool/feature that I will pay attention to.

Also I remember reading in another post recently regarding readers concerns of not using Honda's Service and Parts and subsequent warranty problems.

I found that covered in the center of page 230 of the Owners Manual.
Paraphrasing "service at a dealer is not mandatory to keep your warranties in effect" and "keep all receipts as proof"
I think this would pertain to using other than Honda's oils, lubricants and filters.

Also of special interest is that it is very important, as anyone would guess, to reset the EOLD at the correct time or you will no longer have an accurate record of when maintenance is needed.
This is mentioned very briefly on same page.

Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
shortspark, more good info on OLM! You've got me considering Motorcraft synthetic "blend" now.

BTW, I noticed in one of your posts that you're near Tyler. I was born and raised in East Texas, in the Gladewater/Big Sandy vicinity. Every year I return to Texas to fish the minor league bass circuit on those beautiful lakes: Lake Fork, Lake Tyler, Lake of the Pines, Lake Gladewater, Lake Hawkins, Lake Gilmer, and a host of others. I keep a boat and truck in Gladewater, but may from time to time drive the Ridgeline down from CA to pull the boat and give all those F150's my uncles and cousins drive some company lol. Do you fish at all, and if yes, how has the Ridgeline handled itself on those East Texas boat ramps? I've watched many a F150 spin and slide on those steep and wet ramps. I'm hoping the Ridgeline, with the AWD, will have no problems pulling a 3000# bass boat up the ramps. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
akatwn - small world! I live on the golf course at Holly Lake Ranch just north of Hawkins and since you have fished Lake Hawkins I know you know where Holly Lake is. They changed our post office in June to Hawkins but prior to that I had a Big Sandy address.

I use to fish a lot but now it seems I only have time for golf (however, Monday I will be flying to Kentucky to fish a bass tournament on the Ohio river with a buddy of mine from up there).

I bought a trailer on Lake Fork shortly after it opened and kept it about 15 years before selling it a few years ago. I had my boat on a hydro lift and it was really neat to get up and walk on down to the boat house, lower the boat (a Nitro) and just start fishing. I fished Fork nearly every day after I retired 10 years ago (biggest was 12.6lb) and I pretty much became the Lark Fork expert on Carolina Riggin' - if I do say so myself!

In the heyday of Fork I had a secret during the spawn. I would be the only one to use a Carolina rigged lizard with the tail dipped in Spike'em, small sinker and short leader throwing in a foot of water - and killed them. Everyone else was sitting there wasting their time in one spot by moving a Slugo a half inch every two hours!! Later on in the season, I would go to short worms (then french fries) and use a heavy weight with longer leader off the main water points - and killed them there too!!! The park I was in was next door to Lake Fork Marina and you know where that is I'm sure.

I don't even have a boat now so I have no idea how the Ridgeline would handle those terrible ramps (we have a real bad one here at the Holly Lake Ranch lake). When I had a boat, it was all my Dakota could do to pull it out of the Holly Lake ramp. But my guess is that the Ridge would due just fine due to the VTEC engine having been re-torqued (is that a word?) especially for the Ridgeline.

Send me an email next time you get down this way and maybe we can get together for a little fishing - since you have a boat LOL! And I'll get you in to Holly Lake for a round of golf. Sounds like a deal to me!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Does anyone know how to reset HAL? or OLM or whatever you call it? :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Shortspark, sounds like I found a real East Texas bass fisherman! Lake Fork is my favorite bass lake, and I've spent many a day on that beautiful lake, but not as many as you by the sounds of it! Who knows, we might have even run across one another out there on the water! My dream is to catch a double digit lunker, so I envy your 12.6 lb'er. Now I can say I've talked with the "expert" Carolinga Riggin' man from Lake Fork! I have been to the Lake Fork Marina many a time for tournament weigh-in's. Will be down that way all of September into October tourney fishing, very tight schedule this year. If I get some open dates, I'll email you. May need a "substitue" partner one night for the Lake Hawkins Wednesday night tournaments, or possibly the Lake Fork Tuesday night tournaments in September. Hope you enjoy the tourney in Kentucky. Tight lines, Mate! And take care of the Ridgeline! ;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,554 Posts
RidgeMe said:
Does anyone know how to reset HAL? or OLM or whatever you call it? :confused:

RidgeMe --See page 228 & 229 of Ownwers Manual.

1) Turn ignition on (II)
2) Press Select repeatedly until engine oil life is displayed.
3) Press Reset button for about 10 seconds until "Maint Reset" message appears.
4) Select answer "N" (no) or "Y" (yes) by pressing Select button repeatedly.
5) Select >Y and press and HOLD Reset button again.

Note: Also BEFORE you reset the OLM see page 230 "Important Maintenance Precautions" -- NEVER reset OLM without doing the required service OR not reset it after doing the service.

Also there are other "Maintenance SUB Item" codes to consider beside "Oil Life" on page 226.
See explanation of these codes on page 232.


Joe
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,780 Posts
How do you set it back to100% if you change your on oil?
Ummm, go back and read post# 11 in the thread. It's the one just above your post.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top