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Madtiger11 said:

"...Why is it that Honda got the throttle so right on HRV and yet so wrong on the fancy Ridgeline?? RL’s engine is great I am sure. But the throttle tuning and ZF 9-speed are just a disaster IMHO. ECO mode on RL is useless...might as well put a pillow behind the gas pedal. The fancy ZF shifting is pure crap. Sport/Sequential mode is too aggressive for daily driving. Non-S mode makes the engine into a non-boosted 3-cylinder slow poke. It is sad when I have to use S-mode just to merge onto highway ramp! A simple task as accelerating from stop is painfully slow because ZF starts in 2nd gear! ..."

Madtiger11, I hope I haven't hijacked your forum nor intimidated the enlightened and free flow of ideas that your forum has encouraged. Have you ever heard of the saying, " Evil exist when good men stand by and do nothing"? Well while I wait for some brave objective person who owns a 2022 Ridgeline, who feels like he has no problems with the gear shifting and the throttle, to merely test drive a 2022 HRV to simulate what happened to you, I hear crickets and the silence is deafening. However, your courage can be contagious. I want you to find another owner of a 2022 Ridgeline who lives near to you and ask if he could drive your Ridgeline around the block with you in it and then drive his Ridgeline around the block. Then have him tell you if he has noticed anything different about driving your vehicle. Do not tell him anything about the problems you observed because his observation will then become biased or subjective. If you can't find such an individual then go to a Honda dealership and test drive one of their 2022 Ridgelines, then come back to your forum and tell us what you observed. While you grow a pair, I will share with you a story.

I have a 1987 Corvette that has so much raw power, I am afraid to drive it. I was always nervous to press the accelerator. I usually read car reviews and a few years after I had purchased this Corvette, an article describing the newer Corvette, mentioned how refined the throttle was and how much more accurate the gas pedal felt as compared to my Corvette. So I am left with the riddle, "is the car powerful or just having an out of control pedal?" I thought of this story when you mentioned, "pillow behind the gas pedal". I had driven a military vehicle once that had a gas pedal that was so high from the floor that my legs felt tired trying to keep my leg off the floor but keeping it at a constant distance where I would neither accelerate nor slow down. Here is where I am going with all this. The technology into that gas pedal is no easy feat, (no pon intended). Too hard or too low and you could, like me, almost become afraid of the vehicle, because you lack control and not because of the power of its engine nor its transmission. My question to the forum would be, "Did Honda change the tension or travel of the accelerator pedal or not?" Before I am ridiculed, can you do one more brave act?

Could you make a short one or two minute movie of what the vehicle is doing when you drive it? Visually, I am particularly interested in the tachometer and speedometer while listening to the sounds of the engine and the sounds of the transmission changing gears. Therefore if you record this with your phone, I would prefer if all four windows were open.
 

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Point taken and understood. I guess what I was trying to say is that your revs will increase; therefore, having a negative impact on fuel economy, so using ECO in S make no sense at all IMPO.
100% agreed with all you said, minus the "S" part. But only because @zroger73 didn't chime in.
 

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Madtiger11, having read the previous post, I have some questions:
1. How many miles are on your Ridge?
2. Did you have that many issues before you brought the vehicle to the repair shop for the brake problem or notice them after you left with more intensity?
3. Did the repair shop try to encourage you to have extra work done, such as a tune up, oil change, transmission flush, air filter or fuel filter change?
4. Did you start noticing these issues after you filled up the vehicle with gas at an unusual gas station?
4a Do you usually empty a tank of gas before you fill again or fill up before it gets empty e.g. quarter tank?
5. Do you operate the vehicle in a dusty environment?
6. When is the vehicle due for the next tune up, transmission flush, examination of the lubrication of the rear axle fluid, fwd or awd fluids?
7. What did you discover about the quantity or quality of the transmission fluid when you last checked it?
7a When did you last check the transmission fluid and what is it reading now?
7b Did you or any repair shop ever changed or added transmission fluid to the vehicle? If so what specific fluid was placed in the transmission?
7c As curtesy, sometimes repair shops top off the fluids in your vehicle. Did any repair shop tell you that they did this for you?
8. Can you locate the engine air filter and see if filter and the containment area is clean and free of debris?
9. Can you locate the engine transparent fuel filter and observe if there is fuel on one side of the filter with the vehicle turned off and that the quantity of fuel does not change when you start the vehicle or press the accelerator up to at least 3,000 rpm?
10 Did you hear a clear unmuffled sound with no sputtering or choking sound when the revs were increased?
11 On what occasions does the shifting and gear changing issues begin to occur - when you first drive the vehicle, when you first apply a load like passengers, a trailor or cargo?
12 Does snow, rain or driving in dirt or sand initiate or worsen the situation?
13 Does the vehicle sound louder or more distinct in sound than any other vehicle?
14 Can you look under the vehicle to see if something seems missing like a catalytic converter, a detached hose, cannon plug or clamp?

I look forward to hearing from you and don't feel ashamed or embarrassed if you are not able to accomplish any of the above tasks.
 

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Why is it that Honda got the throttle so right on HRV and yet so wrong on the fancy Ridgeline?? RL’s engine is great i am sure. But the throttle tuning and ZF 9-speed are just a disaster IMHO. ECO mode on RL is useless...might as well put a pillow behind the gas pedal. The fancy ZF shifting is pure crap. Sport/Sequential mode is too aggressive for daily driving. Non-S mode makes the engine into a non-boosted 3-cylinder slow poke. It is sad when I have to use S-mode just to merge onto highway ramp! A simple task as accelerating from stop is painfully slow because ZF starts in 2nd gear! And then you add in the useless auto-start/stop crap that damages engines apparently!
Wow. Your rant is little more than a knee-jerk emotional response because you drove an HRV, which is lighter than the RL, so it may feel more responsive? One: I find the 3.5/ZF match MUCH better than the problem-ridden slush box it replaced, and it is certainly not "pure crap." Two, you should know by now that if you drive in S mode auto start/stop is disabled. Three, S mode is not "too aggressive" for daily driving, I find it an engaging experience especially in full manual with the paddles. Four, Eco Mode is quite good for city driving and flat-out highway; there's a difference in response but that's what IT IS SUPPOSED TO DO. If you don't like it there's a little green button that turns it off.

And finally: did you not thoroughly demo/test drive the RL before you decided to spring for one? Your rant is nothing more than buyer's remorse based on a much lighter and therefore more responsive experience with a loaner. it's like you're searching for faults. Good luck.
 

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Nice to see the noisy brake feature was retained for the new Gen models- My 2020 brakes since 500 miles of ownership had this brake noise and vibration, dealer first said there was debris on the pads, they scotch brighted the pads and called it “fixed” I was like really!!!…. Was not in the mood to argue coz I needed to get to work, anyway returned for a second time after I complained to the service manager and they resurfaced the fronts, took the vibrating pedal away but never really took the noise away.. about 8k miles later feeling a little pulsation again and the noise is definitely back.. not sure what your noise is but mine is like a mechanical whirring noise or like a worn pinion and ring noise when initially applying brakes(more audible from higher speeds) doesn’t seem to be a safety issue but so annoying for a highly regarded vehicle, never had this noise on any of my previous eco, utility, luxury vehicles.. anyway since it doesn’t seem to affect the safety end If I have time may take it to another dealer to check or just wait till I need new rotors
This is my first Honda and between this and the shitty driver aids may be my last.
 

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I don’t think the brakes have changed on any of the RLs since 2017…if I am wrong someone will correct me😉
 

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Has anyone installed the Pedal Commander suggested by Security Guy? If so, looking for any feedback. I have a 2019 RTLE and would be getting the PC for my 2023 RTLE when it comes in, supposedly in Sept.

Any impact on OEM or HondaCare warranty? Also, what is the impact of the PC on towing? (We tow a travel trailer).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 · (Edited)
Wow. Your rant is little more than a knee-jerk emotional response because you drove an HRV, which is lighter than the RL, so it may feel more responsive? One: I find the 3.5/ZF match MUCH better than the problem-ridden slush box it replaced, and it is certainly not "pure crap." Two, you should know by now that if you drive in S mode auto start/stop is disabled. Three, S mode is not "too aggressive" for daily driving, I find it an engaging experience especially in full manual with the paddles. Four, Eco Mode is quite good for city driving and flat-out highway; there's a difference in response but that's what IT IS SUPPOSED TO DO. If you don't like it there's a little green button that turns it off.

And finally: did you not thoroughly demo/test drive the RL before you decided to spring for one? Your rant is nothing more than buyer's remorse based on a much lighter and therefore more responsive experience with a loaner. it's like you're searching for faults. Good luck.
Let’s do some comparison. Let me see if i can debunk some of your gross assumptions.

2022 HRV:
141 HP
Curb weight = 3000.
Power to weight ratio = 0.047.

2022 Ridgeline:
280 HP
Curb weight = 4400.
Power to weight ratio = 0.064.

So, as you can see, the Ridgeline has a significantly better power to weight ratio.

But how about the transmission??

1st gear ratio in the Ridgeline = 4.71.

1st gear “simulated” in the HRV = 2.50.

Again, the Ridgeline has a much lower (higher numerical) 1st gear ratio…given it a distinct advantage in get up and go from stop over the HRV.

Ridgeline final drive ratio = 4.33. HRV = 5.436.

So, if you do the math…Ridgeline “crawl” ratio (1st gear ratio x final drive ratio) = 20.39. HRV “crawl” ratio = 13.59.

So, either way you slice it, Ridgeline has significantly better power balance than HRV. More power. Better transmission/differential ratios.

What does that tell you about ZF/throttle of the RL? It ain’t good…at least IMO. If you like your ZF/throttle in RL, then more power to you. That is YOUR opinion. I am just stating MY OPINION on what i feel Honda can do better. And as you can see, others share my view.

The fact that the ZF is seemingly better than the previous crapbox (as you stated) does not automatically mean that it is a good transmission.

S-mode just keeps RPMs high and refuses to shift. Sure, great for passing i guess but then you have to deal with the engine noise (and bad fuel economy if you leave it in S-mode all day). And when it does shift, it is slow to change gears. Don’t kid yourself that this S-mode is some sort of race car mode. It ain’t.

What is the point of using ECO mode on highway?? What if you have to pass someone? Actually, ECO mode should be used in stop-n-go traffic and city driving where traffic is slow and predictable. You’re thinking it wrong dude.

AGAIN, the point is that the tuning sucks. I still would buy RL over and over again because its other benefits outweighs this annoyance. But somehow, some of you think that we should NEVER discuss annoyances…because if we do, then we should all sell it immediately! Dumb logic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Madtiger11, having read the previous post, I have some questions:
1. How many miles are on your Ridge?
2. Did you have that many issues before you brought the vehicle to the repair shop for the brake problem or notice them after you left with more intensity?
3. Did the repair shop try to encourage you to have extra work done, such as a tune up, oil change, transmission flush, air filter or fuel filter change?
4. Did you start noticing these issues after you filled up the vehicle with gas at an unusual gas station?
4a Do you usually empty a tank of gas before you fill again or fill up before it gets empty e.g. quarter tank?
5. Do you operate the vehicle in a dusty environment?
6. When is the vehicle due for the next tune up, transmission flush, examination of the lubrication of the rear axle fluid, fwd or awd fluids?
7. What did you discover about the quantity or quality of the transmission fluid when you last checked it?
7a When did you last check the transmission fluid and what is it reading now?
7b Did you or any repair shop ever changed or added transmission fluid to the vehicle? If so what specific fluid was placed in the transmission?
7c As curtesy, sometimes repair shops top off the fluids in your vehicle. Did any repair shop tell you that they did this for you?
8. Can you locate the engine air filter and see if filter and the containment area is clean and free of debris?
9. Can you locate the engine transparent fuel filter and observe if there is fuel on one side of the filter with the vehicle turned off and that the quantity of fuel does not change when you start the vehicle or press the accelerator up to at least 3,000 rpm?
10 Did you hear a clear unmuffled sound with no sputtering or choking sound when the revs were increased?
11 On what occasions does the shifting and gear changing issues begin to occur - when you first drive the vehicle, when you first apply a load like passengers, a trailor or cargo?
12 Does snow, rain or driving in dirt or sand initiate or worsen the situation?
13 Does the vehicle sound louder or more distinct in sound than any other vehicle?
14 Can you look under the vehicle to see if something seems missing like a catalytic converter, a detached hose, cannon plug or clamp?

I look forward to hearing from you and don't feel ashamed or embarrassed if you are not able to accomplish any of the above tasks.
1. 10k miles.
2. Brake noise is the ONLY issue. Brakes work fine.
3. No. I told them what i want. They offered me some plan, but i declined. They politely moved on.
4. This throttle issue is from day 1.
5. City and highway driving.
6. I have no idea. I am not there yet…just have 10k miles.
7. Why would i do this on a brand new vehicle that i bought off the lot and only has 10k miles.
8. Engine filter is clean.
9. I will skip this one. Not gonna do it.
10. Engine sounds silky when revved.
11. See 4.
12. No.
13. No.
14. Everything intact. Still have my cats! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Madtiger11 said:

"...Why is it that Honda got the throttle so right on HRV and yet so wrong on the fancy Ridgeline?? RL’s engine is great I am sure. But the throttle tuning and ZF 9-speed are just a disaster IMHO. ECO mode on RL is useless...might as well put a pillow behind the gas pedal. The fancy ZF shifting is pure crap. Sport/Sequential mode is too aggressive for daily driving. Non-S mode makes the engine into a non-boosted 3-cylinder slow poke. It is sad when I have to use S-mode just to merge onto highway ramp! A simple task as accelerating from stop is painfully slow because ZF starts in 2nd gear! ..."

Madtiger11, I hope I haven't hijacked your forum nor intimidated the enlightened and free flow of ideas that your forum has encouraged. Have you ever heard of the saying, " Evil exist when good men stand by and do nothing"? Well while I wait for some brave objective person who owns a 2022 Ridgeline, who feels like he has no problems with the gear shifting and the throttle, to merely test drive a 2022 HRV to simulate what happened to you, I hear crickets and the silence is deafening. However, your courage can be contagious. I want you to find another owner of a 2022 Ridgeline who lives near to you and ask if he could drive your Ridgeline around the block with you in it and then drive his Ridgeline around the block. Then have him tell you if he has noticed anything different about driving your vehicle. Do not tell him anything about the problems you observed because his observation will then become biased or subjective. If you can't find such an individual then go to a Honda dealership and test drive one of their 2022 Ridgelines, then come back to your forum and tell us what you observed. While you grow a pair, I will share with you a story.

I have a 1987 Corvette that has so much raw power, I am afraid to drive it. I was always nervous to press the accelerator. I usually read car reviews and a few years after I had purchased this Corvette, an article describing the newer Corvette, mentioned how refined the throttle was and how much more accurate the gas pedal felt as compared to my Corvette. So I am left with the riddle, "is the car powerful or just having an out of control pedal?" I thought of this story when you mentioned, "pillow behind the gas pedal". I had driven a military vehicle once that had a gas pedal that was so high from the floor that my legs felt tired trying to keep my leg off the floor but keeping it at a constant distance where I would neither accelerate nor slow down. Here is where I am going with all this. The technology into that gas pedal is no easy feat, (no pon intended). Too hard or too low and you could, like me, almost become afraid of the vehicle, because you lack control and not because of the power of its engine nor its transmission. My question to the forum would be, "Did Honda change the tension or travel of the accelerator pedal or not?" Before I am ridiculed, can you do one more brave act?

Could you make a short one or two minute movie of what the vehicle is doing when you drive it? Visually, I am particularly interested in the tachometer and speedometer while listening to the sounds of the engine and the sounds of the transmission changing gears. Therefore if you record this with your phone, I would prefer if all four windows were open.
You need to test drive a Ridgeline and come to your own conclusion. Good luck. I am not alone in what i think of the ZF / throttle of RL. But everyone has their own views.
 

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2022 RTL-E Crystal Black Pearl
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Has anyone installed the Pedal Commander suggested by Security Guy? If so, looking for any feedback. I have a 2019 RTLE and would be getting the PC for my 2023 RTLE when it comes in, supposedly in Sept.

Any impact on OEM or HondaCare warranty? Also, what is the impact of the PC on towing? (We tow a travel trailer).
I know you are looking for other responses, but I will address your questions:

1. No impact on warranty. If concerned, it's a 2 minute uninstall if you want to remove it before going to the dealer.
2. No impact on towing as you can always turn if off (takes 5 seconds) and everything goes back to stock. Based on the situation, having it on a certain setting may actually make your towing experience better...definitely not worse.

If you are getting your truck in September, would that not make it a 2022?
 

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Madtiger11, I am proud of you for sticking to your guns and I hope you still have some fight still left in you. Three things here:
1. Whether or not you are the only person with this issue, that is kind of between you and the other members, because I am still going to help you troubleshoot or at least come up with some answers.
2. I want to determine if it is an engine power problem, a transmission problem or a throttle problem.
3. Those questions I sent you has nothing to do with you or anyone. They are strictly mechanic troubleshooting stuff.

So then, earlier another member mentioned that if the transmission fluid was low, your transmission and gear changing operation won't be right so I need you to verify what the dip stick is showing and for you to use a white paper napkin to describe the color and content of the fluid. Someone else here might be able to tell you because on my 6 speed "inferior" 2017, the vehicle should not be running when it is checked. I don't want you to ask anyone else to check it but you, for they are not going to care or give a hoot, and I want an exact measurement.

What is common to me may not be common to you, so try not to get frustrated by how direct, I communicate. Whenever a vehicle has first been started or even if it has been idling for sometime and you think the engine has been warmed up, it does not mean the transmission and its fluid has been warmed up: it actually just start to warm when the vehicle begins to move. Hence it is important for you to give me that feedback as to what time in the driving cycle your problem occurs and I am interested in the first time when you select drive, how many seconds before you feel a small jerk that the forward gear has been engaged versus selected. Later when the transmission is warm, perhaps at a red light, put the vehicle in neutral and after a few seconds put it in Drive and tell me how many seconds it took to engage.

Please bear with me now. Others on the forum stated that when you select a race car selection, I believe it is an "S", the vehicle will never select the first gear: it will always start to move the vehicle in the second gear. So then my common sense already tells me that if you stop on or near a hill, you should expect that your vehicle may have a sort of inadequate power to move up the hill and if the vehicle were facing down the hill, the vehicle would sort of try to runaway down the hill, since you would not have this strong number one gear available to you. Then imagine if you also had cargo, passengers and a Trailor! The scenario that I just described to you would be exacerbated and it would not be bad vehicle, just a driver that is not aware of how the truck was designed. I don't want to scare you any further by suggesting what if you now selected Economy mode on top of this urgent need for more power. Let me give others a chance to beat up on me and give you some reprieve. So finally I still want you to give me the results of this engagement when you select the D in "Slow old person" mode and when you select the D in the "Race Car" mode, in cold and in warm trasmission condition, because I want to differentiate the engagement lead or lagging time tests-simulation for this first and second gear. By the way, next time I will discuss the throttle simulation tests.
 

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That sounds like a parts issue with the rear brakes in this supply constrained world. They got it right in the past so it sounds like something is not to spec.

I don't think S mode does anything for throttle response, it just keeps the revs up with the transmission.

From a stop with any throttle position, it works great and moves through the gears with no mushy shifts. This is where it shines. Starting off in 2nd can feel a little anemic on inclines.

However, when cruising along in the highest gear that the transmission selects, press the throttle up to halfway and it gives you very little. Even in S mode with the revs up it should give you more IMO. It should have enough power to hold a gear and propel the vehicle forward a little bit but when you lean on it just slightly, it bogs down and downshifts. Floor it and the beast comes alive. On hills it's more pronounced. It's also quick to upshift. I think it is apples to apples, throttle response is throttle response but the programming in the ECU is where the laggy feel comes from if you ask me. On flats and when cruising it not a big deal but when you want to pass or get some forward progress quickly it's asleep.

At first I thought maybe it's to heavy and the torque is high up in the rev range but then I drive a gas RAV4 and it holds gears better and has a little to give. Try a hybrid with an E-CVT and it's just a better execution of utilizing the power that the engine and battery provide.

I know sand mode can make it feel jerky but I'll try to see how it reacts to some throttle when cruising along is this mode. If it moves then I know it's not about a lack of power.

So these devices sounds like they will help but I hope they don't make for a jerky feeling. Some cars have a better secret sauce than others, the proof is in the pudding, not the recipe.
 

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14v6 said:
"...I don't think S mode does anything for throttle response, it just keeps the revs up with the transmission.

From a stop with any throttle position, it works great and moves through the gears with no mushy shifts. This is where it shines. Starting off in 2nd can feel a little anemic on inclines.

However, when cruising along in the highest gear that the transmission selects, press the throttle up to halfway and it gives you very little. Even in S mode with the revs up it should give you more IMO. It should have enough power to hold a gear and propel the vehicle forward a little bit but when you lean on it just slightly, it bogs down and downshifts. Floor it and the beast comes alive. On hills it's more pronounced. It's also quick to upshift. I think it is apples to apples, throttle response is throttle response but the programming in the ECU is where the laggy feel comes from if you ask me. On flats and when cruising it not a big deal but when you want to pass or get some forward progress quickly it's asleep. ..."

14v6, what year Ridge do you drive? I am beginning to regret requesting that anyone test drive this HRV because it doesn't have a nine speed and it doesn't have anything in common with a truck. First of all CVT means continuously variable transmission: it doesn't have any gears so of course its going to be smooth. I don't know of any truck that has a CVT. It maybe nice for little old ladies going to church that may not want to spill Geritol on their dresses but for trucks hauling bricks, wood or trailers a transmission needs to be tough, strong, resilient and proven over time: it can't be made from little rubber bands. I don't even know any busses that use CVT. I wish if I could get something specific like, I drove a 2022 empty Ridge on flat ground at 70 mph, in the 9th speed, engine tach reading 2,500 rpm and was not able to overtake without climbing up to 4,500 rpm and down shifting not once but twice down to the 7th gear to develop a speed of 80 mph within 15 seconds. When members say, "I floored it", I don't know what to think because I have never had to floor my accelerator: I would feel like I am mashing up the vehicle if I even came close to 4,000 revs. Now I am beginning to wonder if the forum members would prefer an automatic down shift from the ninth gear to the 8th gear to be initiated by a little less throttle increase; does the 8th gear provide enough power to overtake or is the 7th then necessary; or is the acceleration/power demand unreasonable.

So then is there anyone who owned a 6 speed Ridge and now own a 9 speed Ridge kind of miss anything about the power, acceleration, throttle response or ease of shifting of the old 6 speed? Then finally, how many members have ever driven a vehicle with CVT and wish if a future Ridge would have a CVT?
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
14v6 said:
"...I don't think S mode does anything for throttle response, it just keeps the revs up with the transmission.

From a stop with any throttle position, it works great and moves through the gears with no mushy shifts. This is where it shines. Starting off in 2nd can feel a little anemic on inclines.

However, when cruising along in the highest gear that the transmission selects, press the throttle up to halfway and it gives you very little. Even in S mode with the revs up it should give you more IMO. It should have enough power to hold a gear and propel the vehicle forward a little bit but when you lean on it just slightly, it bogs down and downshifts. Floor it and the beast comes alive. On hills it's more pronounced. It's also quick to upshift. I think it is apples to apples, throttle response is throttle response but the programming in the ECU is where the laggy feel comes from if you ask me. On flats and when cruising it not a big deal but when you want to pass or get some forward progress quickly it's asleep. ..."

14v6, what year Ridge do you drive? I am beginning to regret requesting that anyone test drive this HRV because it doesn't have a nine speed and it doesn't have anything in common with a truck. First of all CVT means continuously variable transmission: it doesn't have any gears so of course its going to be smooth. I don't know of any truck that has a CVT. It maybe nice for little old ladies going to church that may not want to spill Geritol on their dresses but for trucks hauling bricks, wood or trailers a transmission needs to be tough, strong, resilient and proven over time: it can't be made from little rubber bands. I don't even know any busses that use CVT. I wish if I could get something specific like, I drove a 2022 empty Ridge on flat ground at 70 mph, in the 9th speed, engine tach reading 2,500 rpm and was not able to overtake without climbing up to 4,500 rpm and down shifting not once but twice down to the 7th gear to develop a speed of 80 mph within 15 seconds. When members say, "I floored it", I don't know what to think because I have never had to floor my accelerator: I would feel like I am mashing up the vehicle if I even came close to 4,000 revs. Now I am beginning to wonder if the forum members would prefer an automatic down shift from the ninth gear to the 8th gear to be initiated by a little less throttle increase; does the 8th gear provide enough power to overtake or is the 7th then necessary; or is the acceleration/power demand unreasonable.

So then is there anyone who owned a 6 speed Ridge and now own a 9 speed Ridge kind of miss anything about the power, acceleration, throttle response or ease of shifting of the old 6 speed? Then finally, how many members have ever driven a vehicle with CVT and wish if a future Ridge would have a CVT?
You are over thinking this. Throttle is soft. ZF shift logic is not the greatest. That’s it. Nothing more. Nothing less. No need to do anything that you have asked. Waste of time. It is just a matter of tolerance by the owner. It seems that you do not own a Ridgeline. Go test drive one. See for yourself. No need to write long wordy posts.
 
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You are over thinking this. Throttle is soft. ZF shift logic is not the greatest. That’s it. Nothing more. Nothing less. No need to do anything that you have asked. Waste of time. It is just a matter of tolerance by the owner. It seems that you do not own a Ridgeline. Go test drive one. See for yourself. No need to write long wordy posts.
The first month with my 2022 I went through a phase where I was mad at Honda for some of their issues with the truck. For me it was the electronics and safety systems, not the transmission. I can see where the transmission would be an issue, but I have driven so many Chrysler and Honda six cylinders with poor low end torque that I didn't come in with high expectations. Like you, I love most of the aspects of the truck. Over time, I've let go of my frustration with some of those things that could be better and just enjoy the truck. I have a 2018 Accord Hybrid (which is apples to oranges) and I really like its power delivery and safety systems so I try not to compare the Ridgeline to it or I do get frustrated.

Here's hoping for a 2024 Ridgeline which corrects many of our concerns.
 

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If you want to change the way the truck feels for the better...get this:


This model is the same model for the Gen2 Ridgeline so disregard the Amazon description. Mine is set on City +3 and now my truck actually puts a smile on my face when I accelerate 😃
 
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Wow. Your rant is little more than a knee-jerk emotional response because you drove an HRV, which is lighter than the RL, so it may feel more responsive? One: I find the 3.5/ZF match MUCH better than the problem-ridden slush box it replaced, and it is certainly not "pure crap." Two, you should know by now that if you drive in S mode auto start/stop is disabled. Three, S mode is not "too aggressive" for daily driving, I find it an engaging experience especially in full manual with the paddles. Four, Eco Mode is quite good for city driving and flat-out highway; there's a difference in response but that's what IT IS SUPPOSED TO DO. If you don't like it there's a little green button that turns it off.

And finally: did you not thoroughly demo/test drive the RL before you decided to spring for one? Your rant is nothing more than buyer's remorse based on a much lighter and therefore more responsive experience with a loaner. it's like you're searching for faults. Good luck.
I wouldn't say all that. They made good points. For me S mode is to high of RPM's. And it's very tough, or impossible to get to know a new vehicle on a test drive. Big picture tho, I'm thinking back to when I was a kid driving cars with no standard power steering or AC. I didn't care back then. Was just happy to have the car. But if you pay 45k for a truck today, we expect more, and we do get more. But the bar has been raised.

I keep discovering news sounds when driving with the radio off. Clicks and clacks, a thump at certain times. But it must all be normal. Another one is while driving slowly on a brick road, or one with a lot of little filled potholes, I can hear a jiggling sound in the front end, as if something is vibrating a bit...loose bolts or something. I called the dealer and they want to test drive to replicate, and they won't hear it the way they drive it probably. They should just take a quick look underneath to make sure all the bolts are tightened up. Not sure they will do that. So I cancelled the appointment. I notice things more than most people. So I just turn up the radio and hammer it, driving the speed limit of course, but I accelerate a little faster now and try to just enjoy the engine pull. I don't like that hard-edged sound though from the direct injection when you go too hard on the pedal. Very machine-like with a metallic sound.
 
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