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With my old iPhone 6, I just plugged the phone into the AUX plug above the glove compartment. But the new iPhones don't have the plugs for that wire. So how can I connect?
 

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You could pick up an inexpensive bluetooth adapter that'll plug into the headphone jack. Amazon has a large variety.
 
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I have used a aux in bluetooth adapter on my 14 for a number of years. You pair your phone to the adapter via bluetooth and it converts the signal to analog and outputs it to a mini jack cable that plugs into your Aux input. With my older iphone (which still had a headphone jack) the sound quality was as good going through bluetooth / the adapter as it was with a direct corded plug in. Here's a link for the adapter that I am currently using with my 10 series Iphone.
 

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I used to use a Jabra bluetooth to FM converter on my 2006 RL. Worked very well and much cleaner too. No wires. I just had to charge it once a week or so.
FM convertors don't come close to the sound quality of the adapters that plug into the aux input. I can't see using an FM convertor unless you have no auxillary input which his 14 does . . .IMHO it's worth the wires and in my case, I hid almost all of them behind the dash.
 

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Did your iPhone not include the Lightning-to-3.5mm headphone jack adapter? If not, they're not more than several dollars and then you can continue to use the aux-in port above the jockey box.

You can also buy one of the mentioned bluetooth adapters. I have one of those, and it's not nearly as good a solution as the Lightning-to-headphone cable, for me.

You could also replace the head unit entirely, for an aftermarket unit with bluetooth. That seems extremely expensive and tedious just to use your phone, though.
 

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FM convertors don't come close to the sound quality of the adapters that plug into the aux input. I can't see using an FM convertor unless you have no auxillary input which his 14 does . . .IMHO it's worth the wires and in my case, I hid almost all of them behind the dash.
You are absolutely correct, of course. However, going down the road at 70 mph, I promise you will never hear the difference unless a local radio station starts to interfere. Then you have to change the channel. I lived with it for years and I am an audiophile. The differece is barely noticeable under normal operating conditions.
 

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You are absolutely correct, of course. However, going down the road at 70 mph, I promise you will never hear the difference unless a local radio station starts to interfere. Then you have to change the channel. I lived with it for years and I am an audiophile. The differece is barely noticeable under normal operating conditions.
On my 06 RTS the difference was night and day. I used an FM modulator prior to installing a aftermarket auxilary input and then switched to a Belkin bluetooth aux input adapter. My 06 had upgraded speakers and sound deadening. My 14 also has upgraded speakers, sound deadening and an external amplifier powering things. Admittedly, I don't now have an FM modulator to re-confirm what I observed a number years ago. . .SInce the 14s have an aux input, it seems (to me) foolish to consider the the low fi FM modulator.
 

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On my 06 RTS the difference was night and day. I used an FM modulator prior to installing a aftermarket auxilary input and then switched to a Belkin bluetooth aux input adapter. My 06 had upgraded speakers and sound deadening. My 14 also has upgraded speakers, sound deadening and an external amplifier powering things. Admittedly, I don't now have an FM modulator to re-confirm what I observed a number years ago. . .SInce the 14s have an aux input, it seems (to me) foolish to consider the the low fi FM modulator.
My 2006 stereo was completely stock and didn't have the AUX input. Probably was a large part of the difference. My 2019 RTL was a completely different story. I hated the 5" color radio so much I pulled it out with only 500 miles on the truck and installed a Kenwood. What a WORLD of difference! I have not yet changed out the speakers, but that will happen this spring.
 

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You are absolutely correct, of course. However, going down the road at 70 mph, I promise you will never hear the difference unless a local radio station starts to interfere. Then you have to change the channel. I lived with it for years and I am an audiophile. The differece is barely noticeable under normal operating conditions.
FM is limited to 30 - 15,000 Hz. I'm pretty sure most people can tell the difference.
 

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FM is limited to 30 - 15,000 Hz. I'm pretty sure most people can tell the difference.
Yes, but probably closer to 22-15k. Most people cannot hear much above 15K anyway.

Looking at Bluetooth technology, which is a compressed format, combined with compressed audio files (.m4a, mp3, .ogg etc) then you really end up with about the same results. Unless your playing 24bit/96khz .flac files from your phone, you are not going to achieve 20-20K regardless, standing still with perfect conditions and with a direct connect (wired). Bluetooth is a lossy format. Yes, even A2DP is lossy. A good way to test this is to download a frequency generator on your phone. You can probably figure out what to do once you have it installed. Run some tests. Start with a 1khz tone for average volume, then work your way up. Test with both Bluetooth and direct connect. I think the results will certainly surprise you.
 
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Definitely. The Ridgeline's audio system doesn't play anything worth a hill of beans below 40 or 50 Hz anyway (and that's generally messy at best). Then consider what your music calls on your audio system to reproduce, combine that with Bluetooth's above-mentioned limitations and the Ridgeline's audio system limitations, and you see why it's so hard for most everyone to hear a difference. For me, the biggest reason to not go with BT is the lag.
 
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This thread keeps on going and going and going . . .
Lag?? If there is some sort of lag effect that makes music sound poor I sure as hell haven't heard it . . .
I'll repeat . . .I have used both a FM based bluetooth adapters and an aux input based adapter. There really was no comparison. The FM ones sound muddy and have very little dynamic range. The aux input one sounds pretty much the same as if I plugged the phone in directly; which is to say good, powerful, clear music. NO LAG.
This isn't theory based. It's based on actual experience.
If you have the aux input then it is simply foolish not to use it. Just push the AUX button when you want to use that source. No FM muddy sound and or cross station interference.
Even with the crappy factory speakers I would expect the difference to obvious. One thing I found with my 14 Sport's stock system was that the factory tweeters actually did something (unlike my in my 06). When I replaced the factory tweeter, I was surprised to find that Honda was using a poly cone tweeter with a serious magnet rather than the absoute garbage that they installed in earlier Ridgelines. I would presume that the OP has these improved tweeters in their14 and that this would be all the more reason to pic the higher fidelity option.
 

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This thread keeps on going and going and going . . .
Lag?? If there is some sort of lag effect that makes music sound poor I sure as hell haven't heard it . . .
I'll repeat . . .I have used both a FM based bluetooth adapters and an aux input based adapter. There really was no comparison. The FM ones sound muddy and have very little dynamic range. The aux input one sounds pretty much the same as if I plugged the phone in directly; which is to say good, powerful, clear music. NO LAG.
This isn't theory based. It's based on actual experience.
If you have the aux input then it is simply foolish not to use it. Just push the AUX button when you want to use that source. No FM muddy sound and or cross station interference.
Even with the crappy factory speakers I would expect the difference to obvious. One thing I found with my 14 Sport's stock system was that the factory tweeters actually did something (unlike my in my 06). When I replaced the factory tweeter, I was surprised to find that Honda was using a poly cone tweeter with a serious magnet rather than the absoute garbage that they installed in earlier Ridgelines. I would presume that the OP has these improved tweeters in their14 and that this would be all the more reason to pic the higher fidelity option.
While the AUX input is clearly better (pun intended) than BT to RF, nothing beats a direct digital USB connection. This will allow your audio to flow at its full bitrate digitally, whether or not the files are compressed (psychoacoustics are for a completely different discussion) . The stereo head unit then does the digital to analog conversion, not the phone.

Some BT to FM convertors work very well however. You really get what you pay for. The Jabra I used in my '06 was a rather expensive model ($140+ at the time) and sounded quite good. I did not have an AUX input, so this was really my only choice except for changing out the head unit, which I never did. However, the HU in my '19 RTL was so bad, I couldn't wait to get that PoS out of the truck. Speakers will upgraded this spring, but probably not the tweeters.
 
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I don't find the RTL HU that bad. I use USB and Bluetooth from my phone mostly and it sounds comparable to the aftermarket kenwood I installed in my last truck. I don't tend to listen to things at high volume, so I'm sure it wouldn't hold up in that regard. If it didn't have built in voice dialing and just auto delivered all the audio input to the phone I don't think I'd even be tempted to upgrade it. As it is I might upgrade it if I don't decide to trade the truck in on a G3 if Honda actually gets it's act together and the G3 is a decent package when it shows up eventually.
 

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This thread keeps on going and going and going . . .
Lag?? If there is some sort of lag effect that makes music sound poor I sure as hell haven't heard it . . .
I'll repeat . . .I have used both a FM based bluetooth adapters and an aux input based adapter. There really was no comparison. The FM ones sound muddy and have very little dynamic range. The aux input one sounds pretty much the same as if I plugged the phone in directly; which is to say good, powerful, clear music. NO LAG.
This isn't theory based. It's based on actual experience.
I can’t figure out what you’re talking about, but clearly you and I are talking about different things. The aux input is great, and what I use with a cable. The BT link introduces a lag time between when one makes a change or adjustment and when one hears it (including playing, pausing, and changing songs). If one uses a BT-to-FM system, they’re combining all the worst elements of every option into one, so of course that will sound terrible.
 

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I can’t figure out what you’re talking about, but clearly you and I are talking about different things. The aux input is great, and what I use with a cable. The BT link introduces a lag time between when one makes a change or adjustment and when one hears it (including playing, pausing, and changing songs). If one uses a BT-to-FM system, they’re combining all the worst elements of every option into one, so of course that will sound terrible.
I don't notice any bluetooth lag. A lightning to male 3.5mm jack cable is definitely a good option and will certainly provide the best fidelity. You will need to plug in the phone each time and it won't be able to be charged while it is plugged in this way. Aftermarket cables seem to be hit or miss based on Amazon reviews. The Apple cable is about $35.
Using the Kinivo, I like that I don't have to take my phone out of my pocket to plug it in. The dash mounted button allow you to ping siri and forward / reverse music. It also houses the microphone and call quality is good. With my older Iphone I compared sound between direct phone to aux input (using double male ended min jack cable) to my bluetooth adapter and I really couldn't hear much if any difference. This was even with my upgraded speakers and an outboard 4 channel amplifier powering them.
 
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