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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
If you are like me, you had problems starting your new ridgeline because your brake pedal wont go down and is hard to push and you tried everything and ended up forcing down your foot and making it start this way but that left you uneasy as to what could have been the reason for that and will you be damaging things by forcing down your foot on the brake pedal than this info is for you.

I have read that some try to use their remote key to open all doors and they claim it helped release the stuck brake pedal but in my experience this solution did not work. This really should not be happening to a brand new vehicle. It should be designed in such a way as to not have this issue. When I am parking in tight spaces like my garage for instance I do tap on my brake pedal to get my truck as close to the wall as I can and this type of tapping should not cause the brake pedal to get stuck. I mean what's the alternative, fly into my garage and slam on brake and slide until I hit something? Anyway. Here's a simple solution "the hack", that works for me every single time.

The Hack - if your brakes are stuck, stop and do not force your foot down the pedal, instead get out of your truck and use the remote start key access then get back into your truck and your stuck brake pedal will be unstuck at least it is for me every single time my pedal feels stuck and I no longer have to force my foot down the pedal and this hack really works.

Maybe it happens to only trucks with remote access option maybe not but it's worth trying if you do not want to mess up your braking system. I'd be curious to find out if the trucks that are having this issue are the ones that have remote start option or this happens on all other types as well? Let me me know in your replies. thank you!

in any case. If you have a remote start and this issue you should be good to go but I am a little disappointed that we have this problem because a $40K truck should not have this issue. I mean car does two main things accelerate and stop and stopping should be flawless in any situation, don't you agree?

Sincerely!
M.L.
 

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Great First Thread Started, and if nothing else a good work around?

1st Question, do you have to get out to remote start? Could you just use the fob to lock the doors and remote start?

When I get a chance, I'll test from my 17 Accord, but it might be next winter before I can, unless the hybrid starts whenever the engine is cold, just not sure since I rarely drive it.

(FYI, ML I went ahead and moved your post, glad you can start a new thread)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes, unfortunately you have to be outside in order for remote start to work (I've tested this). Thank you so much for your help. Remote start should not depend on engine being cold or not, in fact its primary use I would say is to start a cold engine so that by the time you are inside your vehicle its ready to roll.
 

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yes, unfortunately you have to be outside in order for remote start to work (I've tested this). Thank you so much for your help. Remote start should not depend on engine being cold or not, in fact its primary use I would say is to start a cold engine so that by the time you are inside your vehicle its ready to roll.
It's a Hybrid, some times I remote start and it only turns on the HVAC system
(See signature below "2017 Accord LX, Hybrid, White Orchid, Build Date, 2/17"
 

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If you are like me, you had problems starting your new ridgeline because your brake pedal wont go down and is hard to push and you tried everything and ended up forcing down your foot and making it start this way but that left you uneasy as to what could have been the reason for that and will you be damaging things by forcing down your foot on the brake pedal than this info is for you.

I have read that some try to use their remote key to open all doors and they claim it helped release the stuck brake pedal but in my experience this solution did not work. This really should not be happening to a brand new vehicle. It should be designed in such a way as to not have this issue. When I am parking in tight spaces like my garage for instance I do tap on my brake pedal to get my truck as close to the wall as I can and this type of tapping should not cause the brake pedal to get stuck. I mean what's the alternative, fly into my garage and slam on brake and slide until I hit something? Anyway. Here's a simple solution "the hack", that works for me every single time.

The Hack - if your brakes are stuck, stop and do not force your foot down the pedal, instead get out of your truck and use the remote start key access then get back into your truck and your stuck brake pedal will be unstuck at least it is for me every single time my pedal feels stuck and I no longer have to force my foot down the pedal and this hack really works.

Maybe it happens to only trucks with remote access option maybe not but it's worth trying if you do not want to mess up your braking system. I'd be curious to find out if the trucks that are having this issue are the ones that have remote start option or this happens on all other types as well? Let me me know in your replies. thank you!

in any case. If you have a remote start and this issue you should be good to go but I am a little disappointed that we have this problem because a $40K truck should not have this issue. I mean car does two main things accelerate and stop and stopping should be flawless in any situation, don't you agree?

Sincerely!
M.L.
This hard brake just happened to me in my brand new water leak 2019 RTL-E truck for the first time....thanks for the hack...really annoying and needs a TSB...I feel Honda is going downhill fast
 

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Wonder if it is isolated to remote start vehicles.

I don't have remote start and have never experienced difficulty pushing the brake pedal to start the truck. (in two years of ownership)
 

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I have a 2019 BE with 2,500 miles and this just started to do the hard brake the past two nights after leaving it overnight. I have had it a month with no issues. I recently (End of July) traded my 2019 RTL-E with 25,500 miles and never saw this problem. Both have/had Auto-Start. Needless to say, I am headed to the dealership to pitch my bitch! I should not be seeing the inside of the dealer's garage with 2,500 miles on my clock!
 

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2019 with around 8,000 miles now with no issues, I am looking at the older dates here and am wondering if this is something that has been addressed by Honda?

Bill
 

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2019 with around 8,000 miles now with no issues, I am looking at the older dates here and am wondering if this is something that has been addressed by Honda?

Bill
2019 with around 8,000 miles now with no issues, I am looking at the older dates here and am wondering if this is something that has been addressed by Honda?

Bill
I have a 2019 BE with 2,500 miles and this just started to do the hard brake the past two nights after leaving it overnight. I have had it a month with no issues. I recently (End of July) traded my 2019 RTL-E with 25,500 miles and never saw this problem. Both have/had Auto-Start. Needless to say, I am headed to the dealership to pitch my bitch! I should not be seeing the inside of the dealer's garage with 2,500 miles on my clock!
Okay so after a 12 day stay at the dealer, the brakes are fixed. They replaces the check-valve and the master brake cylinder to no repair. They then contacted HONDA tech to no avail. The technician tried pinching off vacuum hoses and worked daily at it until wallah! The problem was fixed. Figure that out?! The only plus for me was i put 900 miles on their "courtesy vehicle" in the interim.
 

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Okay so after a 12 day stay at the dealer, the brakes are fixed. They replaces the check-valve and the master brake cylinder to no repair. They then contacted HONDA tech to no avail. The technician tried pinching off vacuum hoses and worked daily at it until wallah! The problem was fixed. Figure that out?! The only plus for me was i put 900 miles on their "courtesy vehicle" in the interim.
OK, so what did they do?

Bill
 

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OK, so what did they do?

Bill
They tell me they don't know. They first checked the check valve as they had an 18 Pilot with the valve reversed. It was not that. They then replaced the check valve. Nope. Then they replaced the brake master cylinder and still not repaired. So they then started clamping off vacuum hoses and replacing them until something worked. The service writer stated they really aren't sure which particular item fixed the issue. I know... that's no help, but they were at least diligent.
 

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They tell me they don't know. They first checked the check valve as they had an 18 Pilot with the valve reversed. It was not that. They then replaced the check valve. Nope. Then they replaced the brake master cylinder and still not repaired. So they then started clamping off vacuum hoses and replacing them until something worked. The service writer stated they really aren't sure which particular item fixed the issue. I know... that's no help, but they were at least diligent.
3,000 miles later, the braking problem is BACK. Headed back to the dealership! The issue started out of the blue again intermittently. Now it is daily and sometimes it occurs after only 2 hours, yet sometimes it's fine after sitting all night. Very crazy!
 

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3,000 miles later, the braking problem is BACK. Headed back to the dealership! The issue started out of the blue again intermittently. Now it is daily and sometimes it occurs after only 2 hours, yet sometimes it's fine after sitting all night. Very crazy!
Mine only does it when it is cold. The pedal is never hard enough to prevent me from starting it, though. As some others have written, starting your vehicle remotely is the hack, if everyone has that option.
 

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Mine only does it when it is cold. The pedal is never hard enough to prevent me from starting it, though. As some others have written, starting your vehicle remotely is the hack, if everyone has that option.
I can always start it, not sure my wife could. The point is the truck is $43K and should work correctly! It's only 4 months old.
 

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The dealership couldn't (or wouldn't) fix mine. My personal belief is there is a leaky brake booster problem that remains unaddressed. I think Honda has a build quality issue with the booster and there is some part-to-part variability in the manufacturing process that results in some boosters leaking and others not. Some start to leak after a period of service, some do not, and the situation can be aggravated by lower ambient temperatures.

Part of the problem is that there is no pass/fail criteria. In other words no acceptable leak down or leakage rate specification. The dealership scheduled me an appointment for my truck when two Honda field service engineers were present. They were there that day to inspect some other customer's vehicle issue, and so my thoughtful service advisor had me drop off the truck for the day, since the serviced dept. tech had already replaced my booster, check valve ass'y (three times) and were basically "stumped" on what to do next.

Part of the diagnostics on the day the FSE's were present was to attach a vacuum leak down tester and monitor the amount of vacuum drop on the gauge over time. Which, if you ask me, is nearly useless because there is no leak down spec. to begin with. While the engineers were able to duplicate the symptom/complaint, they indicated there was nothing more they were willing to do (such as replacing the booster with a known "good part") to try to eliminate the problem.

So, from that visit up until the time I sold the truck, I lived with a "hard" brake pedal.
 
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