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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I bought a 4ft Core Trax tie down kit from Auto Accessories Garage for $75 shipped.
They also make some neat accessories for the trax system
http://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/Truck-Bed-Accessories/Core-Trax-Tie-Down-Accessories


I removed the cap at the top of the bed rail near tailgate to expose a screw. Then used a panel popper to remove the rail but it looks like it could also slide out as some of the clips did just that. Then there is a plastic fastner on the bed rail near the cab. Next remove the bolts for the tie downs and the bolts holding the bed panel in place. Tilt the panel inward. You'll want the TG down.

I used some clamps and blocks of wood to hold the trax in place so I could mark the holes. I will use the 3 upper bolt holes to mount and then drill and use self tapping screws for two more holes. You cannot use bolts and nuts for the other holes as they are not accessible. I tried. Pulled the wheel well and found out the hard way. This is after I drilled the holes. I clamped the rails backwards so I could see where the holes would line up in relation to the locking/sliding tie downs.

Then I did it again wit it the proper way to mark the holes and drill a starter hole. I used taped to center my holes.

Then I decided to use some LED light strips that are flexible and water proof. They can be cut to length. Tapped them into the cargo lights. Its 12V there and blue is the positive.


Now my holes are drilled in the trax. I'll need to buy 3 new bolts to replace the 3 Honda bolts cause the head is to large and I'll want to use counter sunk bolts if possible. this will give me 3 strong mounting points. Then I'll use 2 self tappers which are included in the kit. I'll pre-drill those holes as they will go through the plastic and into a thin layer of sheet metal.

I messed up trying to be slick and use the OEM bolts and modify the rail but that started looking bad so I have to order another kit. I will have one rail finished tomorrow. Just waiting on bolts.
 

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I am wondering why you didn't just use the three screws already there (not the screws themselves, but get flat head ones to replace them). Did you feel you needed to drill and put in other screws as well? Do you think those are adding much since they are just into the composite and sheet metal?

I am wanting to install similar rails.
 

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I get the adapter that is narrow and then larger. It mimics the original bolt but the larger part is longer to reach the track, but why the other one? It is narrow, wide and narrow again.

I don't have access to a machine shop so I am hoping I can find a tube the right size for the smaller part, just cut it to length, and then stack washers on top to mimic the larger part. But that other one would be a tube, then a washer, then a larger diameter tube. Do I need that or just a taller stack of washers?
 

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I get the adapter that is narrow and then larger. It mimics the original bolt but the larger part is longer to reach the track, but why the other one? It is narrow, wide and narrow again.

I don't have access to a machine shop so I am hoping I can find a tube the right size for the smaller part, just cut it to length, and then stack washers on top to mimic the larger part. But that other one would be a tube, then a washer, then a larger diameter tube. Do I need that or just a taller stack of washers?
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Oh man, you want me to remember what I did and why I did it? LOL! I'l take a look and see what I have mounted where and let you know.

.
 

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Thanks it8ezbngrn for posting this thread. It's a great application that I'm going to copy. I'm installing the same hardware, but on the side walls only. When drilling the side panels, did you discover any wiring harness or other items to be concerned over in line with the three existing fasteners? I plan on using the rearmost captive nut and securing the remainder of the Core Trax using all of the holes in the strip. I'm going to drill and install rivnuts/nutserts at each point. That will give me 6 anchor points on each rail, so should be pretty darn strong. My son has a 3-D printer, so I'm going to have him print flexible washers to seal each recessed hole (including the 2 now unused factory holes) to keep out the water. I'm just having some uneasiness about putting the drill to my new truck without good visibility to what behind the panel. I haven't pulled anything apart yet, so maybe I'm being nervous for nothing.
 

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I was looking at this thread and wondered if anyone came up with a way to just use existing holes for mounting the rail with spacers? I would spend just about any reasonable amount to NOT DRILL HOLES in my truck!!

To get holes to line up I was thinking of using the smaller 5" tracks, which are on ebay for 25$ shipped. Here's a link that shows them;

https://www.realtruck.com/core-trax-tie-down-track-system/ct05b.html

So 50$ for 2 pair, and then whatever costs for quality stainless or aluminum hardware for spacers.
 

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Are the 8 factory tie downs not enough?
Nope. I did this mod a year ago and really enjoy having the extra tie down locations and the ability to position them nearly anywhere I like. I find it particularly important when securing tall items that sometimes tend to tip around unless they have multiple straps. With the hook close, most of the time I just need one strap to do the job.
 

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The 4 corner spots are definitely not enough, especially with tall loads. I have 2 of these;

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Toter-32-Gallon-2-Wheel-Trash-Can-Cart-Blackstone/46395423

as well as some old Rubbermaid barrels and using my stretch mesh cargo net, it would be great to have extra cleats/rings in the middle. Toting recycles to the transfer station I'm always stuffing cardboard boxes and what not around the barrels, so it would be great to have the mesh net cover up and secure the load in between the factory cleats.

In a perfect world, the first poster would have included pix of what the sheet metal looks like behind the panels, to get a better idea of other solutions that might work. Not complaining mind you, this is a great thread. I would be very wary of installing an LED light rope, as you would really need to do your homework if you live in an area where the weather varies greatly over the year. I would be concerned about yellowing, cracking, etc. If you live where the weather is nice year round, go for it, but where temperatures vary between seasons, I'd be concerned with the strip getting curvy over time.

For the 5" mini-tracks I posted earlier, I do realize that they are designed for 2 screws. So my goal to avoid drilling additional holes would require a rectangular shim/spacer with a hole in the middle to attach to the truck body, and then the 2 track holes to screw into the shim/spacer. These middle tie down rings are not meant to bear the same load capacity of 350 lbs as the factory cleats, just attachment points for my cargo net.

These extra rings would also be useful for when I want to haul a couple of standard size kayaks to the local lake with the tailgate down.
 

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Hello all,

I decided to mimic the "Nissan Truck Bed Utili-Track System"

1) bought the 4 Tie-Down Cleat from Ebay for $75; (these are very expensive if you buy them from the dealer, 50$ each!)
2) used GRAINGER to get 2 Strut channel, 4feet, Aluminum, 12 Gaug (Item 45YV52)
3) used GRAINGER to get 1 Strut channel, 5 feet, Aluminum, 14 Gaug (Item 45YV88) - This is longer then the ones required on each side

replaced the existing bolts in the bed with 6mmx40mm to install the rails. I'll attach some pictures so you can see my set up :) so far i'm very happy!

Note: Someone used the "unitrack" rails from home depot- these rails are much stronger but will eventually rust. i went with the aluminum ones and think they'll be able to do the job :)
 

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Hello all,

I decided to mimic the "Nissan Truck Bed Utili-Track System"

1) bought the 4 Tie-Down Cleat from Ebay for $75; (these are very expensive if you buy them from the dealer, 50$ each!)
2) used GRAINGER to get 2 Strut channel, 4feet, Aluminum, 12 Gaug (Item 45YV52)
3) used GRAINGER to get 2 Strut channel, 5 feet, Aluminum, 14 Gaug (Item 45YV88) - This is longer then the ones required on each side

replaced the existing bolts in the bed with 6mmx40mm to install the rails. I'll attach some pictures so you can see my set up <img src="http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> so far i'm very happy!

Note: Someone used the "unitrack" rails from home depot- these rails are much stronger but will eventually rust. i went with the aluminum ones and think they'll be able to do the job <img src="http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
Looking forward to some pics because I have been contemplating adapting Toyota Tacoma bed rails to accommodate a bed rack for overland tent use.
 

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Looking forward to some pics because I have been contemplating adapting Toyota Tacoma bed rails to accommodate a bed rack for overland tent use.
see the pictures above... let me know if you have any questions.

Note1: i cut the edges of the back end of the side rails under 45 degrees, this facilitates the removal of the cleates; the rear bolt forces the rail to go all the way towards the tailgate.... hence the need for the 45 degree cut out

Note2: i have the undercover SE installed in on my truck, the rails interfer a bit with the cleats... I had to move the aluminum rails 1/8 of an inch down, it's slightly off center.

Note3: the front rails is only 1/2 inch deep, you will have to counter sink the bolts on this one, otherwise the cleats will not go onto the rail. (see the picture? i'm missing the cleats from this one... also, i don't have the middle bolt installed; i took it out so i know what size bolts i need to get .... need to find a few minutes to get the job done... i'll get more pictures when i get to it.); the undercover SE tonneou cover came with a front bed extender, this included 3 spacers for the 3 bolts..... ; make sure you buy your own, they are about 1/2 x 1/2 cylinders with a hole in the middle.
 

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I did a similar hold down installation and only used the three bolt locations on the two sides and front, they have been working fine so far.





I made adapters so the rail would rest on them instead of the uneven composite bed.










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What l track did you use? Did you have to drill holes in the track or did it line up with the bed holes already?
 

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I bought 2 x 48" and 1 x 60" L-Track rail from USACargocontrol.com and copied the above installations.

I used the 3 existing bolts on the side, and will use spacers/standoffs to do the front of bed one as shown above.
I was looking at US Cargo Control as well. Which track did you get? Did the holes line up with the truck or did you have to drill the track?
 
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