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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2012 Sport. I did the Alpine KTP 445U amp install along with replacing all 4 door speakers and dash tweeters as per other members here. System sounded great, for about 6 months. While driving down road the HU all of a sudden went completely dead. Along with all 3 power outlets. No display, nothing. I wired the amp to the hu power supply originally. To find the problem I have since hard wired the hu power supply directly to the battery. It seemed to work. I have am/fm and cd capabilities but aux button doesn't work nor do the power outlets. Fuses are all good. I'd rather not have it hard wired to battery as clock display is still on as well as a speaker hiss can be heard.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Sounds like the HU is either damaged, or you need to take it out and check for blown fuses if any in the HU it'self.

Besides the Kick panel fuses, you may want to take a look at the 2 other fuse boxes under the hood.

Sounds like this whole issue was caused by not having a dedicated 8 gauge fused power wire from the battery to the amplifier, based on the way you described how you wired it.

A schematic diagram may help, but it won't take much time to just open the boxes under the hood and look or test for blown fuses.
 

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From the service manual:
Fuse # 4
Amps:15 A
Component(s) or Circuit(s) Protected
Ambient light, Audio unit, Audio remote switch light, Dash lights brightness controller light, Cargo area light switch light, Console box light 2, Cruise contro lmain switch light, Front side marker lights, Glove box light, Hazard warning switch light, HVAC control unit light/Climate control unit light, Interior light switch light, License plate light,Moonroof switch light, Navigation display unit, Navigation unit, Power mirror switch light, Relay control module, Seat heater switch lights, Select/reset switch light, Taillights, VSA OFF switch light, VTM-4 switch light

Fuse # 5
Amps: 20 A
Component(s) or Circuit(s) Protected
Audio unit

Fuse # 32
Amps: 7.5A
Component(s) or Circuit(s) Protected
Accessory power socket relays, Audio unit, Front accessory power socket relay, Gauge control module,Ignition key switch, MICU, Navigation display unit, Navigation unit

_______________________

Sounds like you are using factory head? If thats the case you likely found color code info on the forum? Also sounds like when you connected power to a battery source, both acc & batt lines to head unit were connected together. The hiss you are hearing is the amp remaining on, which *might make sense* now that you have ign and batt + to the HU connected to a battery source, as seen by the clock remaining on. With the amp trigger wire connected to the batt power line feeding the HU, the amp is idling full time, drawing current from the batt. Is there a reason both acc & batt lines are connected together? If not, connect both HU acc & amp trigger wires to "acc" power in the factory harness. That way amp will only power up with key on and clock will turn on/off with the key.

But that doesn't solve the problem of the batt line being dead in the factory harness. Hopefully, the fuse info above will be helpful. The root of power loss was the circuit got overloaded most likely by the power amp. My guess is the fuse is popped, you just haven't found it yet.

Edit: fuse info above came from 06 thru 08 service manual. Based on your description, it *appears* fuse 32 popped. That is, IF 06 thru 08 fuse assignments remain the same to 2012. End edit.

Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. I appreciate your responses. Ohsix I will recheck those fuses. Laserguy I hope you are wrong about the damaged HU but I have a sneaky suspicion you are right. Ugh. If it's damaged I might have to go to salvage to get new HU.
Thanks again.
 

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Thanks guys. I appreciate your responses. Ohsix I will recheck those fuses. Laserguy I hope you are wrong about the damaged HU but I have a sneaky suspicion you are right. Ugh. If it's damaged I might have to go to salvage to get new HU.
Thanks again.
Check ebay listings for OEM HU listings. You'll likely note they aren't cheap - or significantly cheaper than whats available in the after market. Buying used at near new unit aftermarket prices retains stock appearance but you would be buying a unit in unknown electro/mechanical condition and not be enjoying newer feature like BT, improved audio quality & better tuner performance.

Based on your description, its doubtful the HU is "bad". Just to be clear, your radio/disc player "works" in the current power connection but you've lost a couple of other functions & power to acc power outlets, correct?

If thats true, the HU isn't "bad", its the way its wired. You can restore previous function(s) by solving the supply issue (likely fuses). Solve that and you don't *need* to spend $.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ohsix, I just found fuse #32 to be blown. Can't believe I missed that. Now that I have found the problem I need to correct it so it doesn't happen again. laserguy you mentioned a dedicated fused power wire to power the amp. 20 amp enough? Guessing that"s what overloaded the system. But won't the amp be powered on all the time if that's done?
Thanks you guys again. Great forum.
 

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Ohsix, I just found fuse #32 to be blown. Can't believe I missed that. Now that I have found the problem I need to correct it so it doesn't happen again. laserguy you mentioned a dedicated fused power wire to power the amp. 20 amp enough? Guessing that"s what overloaded the system. But won't the amp be powered on all the time if that's done?
Thanks you guys again. Great forum.
WAIT. Fuse 32 is a switched source. If that's where you connected main power to the amp, that was your issue.

Forum members with your same set up have connected amp power to the yellow factory batt source (fed by 20A fuse 5) with no issue. Your Alpine amp is current efficient and *should not* cause a problem being fed by the same line powering your HU. Just change main power to the amp and you are good to go. While you are in there, make sure the amp trigger wire is connected to the acc power line so the whole system powers up/down with the key.

Does that make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, that all makes sense. Just one question though. Which wire is the amp trigger wire? It's different than the amp main power wire right.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry, I had to take junior to hockey practice. That schematic is good. I'll have this all back together and working tomorrow.If I get a break from the kids.
I was ready to take my truck into the audio shop and have an after market hu put in. Would like to have BT and all but prefer to stick with the oem look.
Thanks for all your advice and time Ohsix and laserguy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Had my dash all apart today loaded with knowledge gained from this forum. To remedy my problem described earlier I run a dedicated fused power wire, 15A, to the battery and tied the amp trigger wire into the ignition acc wire . All seems to be working fine now.
Thanks for all the help guys
Cheers
 
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