Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner
1 - 20 of 88 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good day. I just bought a 2010 VP. It has 185k mi or 300km. Body was in surprisingly good shape for here and the price was, what I thought, quite good. I plan on doing the follow:
-Timing belt/tensioner/water pump
-fluids, all
-plugs
-valve adjust
-inspect brakes/CVs/suspension and replace as required. I think there might be a bad ball joint
-fluid film every single cavity I can find and then under coat the belly with something a little thicker
-clean the disgusting interior
-fix leaking EGR pipe

My question is; do I need to replace the rad or is it alright because it's a 2010. The fittings look like the ones with two nuts. What else am I missing in my list?

Funny enough my current truck that it's replacing drove 700km today to buy it and it just blew a fuel line less than a 1km from home. Good timing I guess. My current rig is an old VW single cab truck. I'm going to miss it's cargo space (7'x9' bed + a 3'x5' enclosed belly compartment) and fuel mileage (approx 30mpg +). What I won't miss is it's so so reliability, 2WD in the snow, and lack of power.

Pics to follow once daylight hits. (What's the best way to upload pics on here; attachments or direct imgur links?)
 

·
Registered
2014 Sport
Joined
·
4,056 Posts
Honda did change the radiator in 09 and we have yet to see a SMOD event reported here since that change. However, the trans fluid fittings on all years of the GenI outwardly appear to be the same. If you actually have a so called "two nut" fitting then your radiator is not OEM. Take a pic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Take a pic.
I'll try to take a pic in the tomorrow when I get it on the rack. I could only see the fittings in the seller's driveway using an inspection mirror. But either way 2010 = no need to change it?
 

·
Registered
2014 Sport
Joined
·
4,056 Posts
I'll try to take a pic in the tomorrow when I get it on the rack. I could only see the fittings in the seller's driveway using an inspection mirror. But either way 2010 = no need to change it?
All the fittings look the same so its not really clear if any of the materials were changed in 2009 or not. I have yet to see a dissection of the fittings on a 2009+ radiator so the need to replace is a bit of a ? IMHO. Regardless of whether or not the 2009 and later fittings are likely to fail, the nature of the design is if they did fail there is a high likelihood that fluids would cross contaminate. With the aftermarket style fittings it doesn't seem likely that a failure would result in cross contamination. Problem with the aftermarket radiators is that quality control often sucks and or getting one shipped to you in good condition seems to be a challenge. When my 14 hits the 10 year mark I'll probably replace the radiator but I haven't decided what replacement I'm going to use. . . . Send us a pic of your Canadian climate exposed 2010's fittings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here it is in all it's glory.



Pics of what I think are the fittings eurban requested.



And the belly for reference as to how much rust the entire vehicle has. Over all it's not much for it's location/age/KMs.
 

·
Registered
2014 Sport
Joined
·
4,056 Posts
Well I suppose the idea of "not much rust" is relative to where you live! You have an OEM radiator and given the obvious rust on the washer I would say that Honda did not change the washer material to something less corrosion prone in 2009 and that you should certainly replace that radiator as soon as possible. If you do go this route please remove the fittings and take some good pictures of them and the threaded ports on the radiator. It would be good to compare to the 06-08 radiators that we have some excellent pictures of (somewhere on this site)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Here it is in all it's glory.



Pics of what I think are the fittings eurban requested.



And the belly for reference as to how much rust the entire vehicle has. Over all it's not much for it's location/age/KMs.
I would change that radiator out if it was mine. Wow I thought mine had a lot of rust for a 2009.
 

·
Super Moderator
2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
Joined
·
23,698 Posts
Rust must indeed be a relative term. This looks pretty bad to me. (but the radiator connection looks pretty good externally)

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Tire Automotive lighting
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ya, the rust seems pretty bad but it's actually solid. It's also a truck that's lived its life in a brutal climate. I looked at another ridgeline and it was much much worse. I think if left unchecked in a year or two it would start to rot out. Rocker panels are solid with no bubbling of the paint. My intent, again, is to fluid film the daylight out of it and then cover it in a wax like under coating. It should stop the rust dead in it's tracks. I mean, I paid $3800 USD and all it needs is about $800 in parts and I'll have a winter truck. My other option was to travel to a better climate and purchase a truck there but that starts to get cost prohibitive. I'll take some more pictures later today if I find the energy to start digging into things. For now here is the high res image of the belly. Yes, it's all relative. This is what I was trying to avoid.

Brakes are mushy/spongy. I've read on this site that it just happens and there is not much you can do about it. I don't feel like going the upgrade to MDX brake route because it's probably a waste of money. New pads/rotors/caliper rebuilds/pins +flush/bleed is about all there is to do?

Lift is a Dannmar MX6. Mid rise, if I could do it again I would have done it differently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Ya, the rust seems pretty bad but it's actually solid. It's also a truck that's lived its life in a brutal climate. I looked at another ridgeline and it was much much worse. I think if left unchecked in a year or two it would start to rot out. Rocker panels are solid with no bubbling of the paint. My intent, again, is to fluid film the daylight out of it and then cover it in a wax like under coating. It should stop the rust dead in it's tracks. I mean, I paid $3800 USD and all it needs is about $800 in parts and I'll have a winter truck. My other option was to travel to a better climate and purchase a truck there but that starts to get cost prohibitive. I'll take some more pictures later today if I find the energy to start digging into things. For now here is the high res image of the belly. Yes, it's all relative. This is what I was trying to avoid.

Brakes are mushy/spongy. I've read on this site that it just happens and there is not much you can do about it. I don't feel like going the upgrade to MDX brake route because it's probably a waste of money. New pads/rotors/caliper rebuilds/pins +flush/bleed is about all there is to do?

Lift is a Dannmar MX6. Mid rise, if I could do it again I would have done it differently.
Great deal on the Ridge. Brakes will be OK once you do a refresh. What would you do differently with the lift?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Great deal on the Ridge. Brakes will be OK once you do a refresh. What would you do differently with the lift?
I would buy a full height hoist. I bought the maxjaxx mx-6 thinking it would be super convenient to be able to unbolt it from the ground and wheel it out of the way if I needed more room. Do you know how many times I have done that? Once, and that was because I was moving to another province. I have 10' ceilings, a jack shaft garage opener, and, save for the ridgeline, cars that are shorter than 4' for the most part. Having a hoist that can only go up 4' is starting to get a little old. If If I find a deal on proper hoist I will probably go for it and use the maxjax in my other garage for winter vehicle storage. Put one car on top of the other. (I'm running out of room). Don't get me wrong, the maxjax works exactly as advertised, is economical, and is infinitely better than messing around with jack stands. Especially when you have cars that have an engine that only comes out the bottom. I am still happy with my purchase but I think I have grown up a little in my 'tinkering' since I first bought it. I also seem to be owning more and more cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Automotive tire Wood Gas Auto part Metal

White Light Product Black Automotive tire

Automotive tire Wood Line Bumper Rim


Grille Motor vehicle Wood Bumper Gas

Well I suppose the idea of "not much rust" is relative to where you live! You have an OEM radiator and given the obvious rust on the washer I would say that Honda did not change the washer material to something less corrosion prone in 2009 and that you should certainly replace that radiator as soon as possible. If you do go this route please remove the fittings and take some good pictures of them and the threaded ports on the radiator. It would be good to compare to the 06-08 radiators that we have some excellent pictures of (somewhere on this site)
Here are pictures of my original 2009 rad that I replaced a few years back with a Spectra brand. Looking at these photos I think I could have left the original rad alone but for piece of mind I changed it out.
White Light Product Black Automotive tire
White Light Product Black Automotive tire
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's interesting. I am about to drop a big order at rock auto and I have a Denso rad sitting in the basket. I don't know much about the internals of that rad but it looks like if that little rubber oring is intact then I should have no problems. Any one got a 5% promo code?

This evening I took a look at all 4 corners. Brakes seem to be in good working order. I lubed all the slide pins. I need to replace all the bleeders. Brake hoses are original, I would like to change them but hard brake line fittings are seized onto the hard line. No easy way to remove them unless I run new hard lines which I think is not really required.





I also undercoated and fluid filmed the entire truck. Took a long time. I heat the fluid film in a crock pot I got from the thrift store. You really get a sense of the unibody when you are blasting the inside of the rocker by the front door and mist is coming out by the tail gate. Hopefully it buys me a few years.


 

·
Registered
2014 Sport
Joined
·
4,056 Posts
I'm not in major snow country and I have had a terrible time with the fittings on those hard lines. If you are not careful you will end up twisting the hard line into a twizzler. I wouldn't worry about changing your brake lines. In my experience it doens't make that much difference on the Ridgeline. You have already lubed the pins and installing new bleeders and doing a thorough fluid exchange should get you reasonably good. Kootbiker, thanks for sharing your 09's pictures. Your fittings didn't look too bad but there really doesn't appear to be much changed from the earlier radiators. Vortex, I think your fittings (at least one of them) look a good bit worse than Kootbiker's. I would replace that radiator if I were you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Radiator ordered, as well as bleeders, rotors, pads, control arms, and some other random stuff. I didn't order new brake lines. I gather this stuff is no appropriate?

Also the driver's side butt warmer won't work on high. Any ideas?

Tomorrow I might get around to cleaning the inside. It's not going to be fun.

Also, is there a place I can get a digital service manual? I have no issues paying for one but the only place I could mails out CDs. I don't really have a CD drive nor do I want to pay $40 in shipping for a CD. I'm looking for a PDF.
 

·
Registered
2020 Ridgeline RTL-E Pacific Pewter
Joined
·
477 Posts
A number of folks here and on Piloteers swear up and down by Valvoline MaxLife ATF as a replacement for ATF-DW1. Goes for about $18 "US Doll Hairs" for 4 qt jug here. Never tried anything but the Honda fluids for ATF myself.
Looks about like a similar price for that AISIN DW-1 stuff (wonder if it's the same thing as Honda DW1 or close enough?).

Also, maybe check/clean the pcv valve when you go to do the valve adjustment, as you'll have the front valve covers off anyway.

I wish I had a lift in my garage.
I wish my garage was big enough to put a lift in it ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I assume the PCV is just like any other modern car, gets full of gunky oil? Valve adjust I can do, my old cars need those often.

I might just get the Honda ATF. For 12 bottles it's an extra $80 to get it vice the Aisin stuff when shipping is priced in.

So when we moved here one of the things I wanted was a detached garage. Very few places had them. So instead we had to find a house that had a big enough lot so I could build one. That's what we did. Ended up with a house that is probably bigger than we need but oh well. I have my detached and that's all that counts! Wife is happy as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Good day. I just bought a 2010 VP. It has 185k mi or 300km. Body was in surprisingly good shape for here and the price was, what I thought, quite good. I plan on doing the follow:
-Timing belt/tensioner/water pump
-fluids, all
-plugs
-valve adjust
-inspect brakes/CVs/suspension and replace as required. I think there might be a bad ball joint
-fluid film every single cavity I can find and then under coat the belly with something a little thicker
-clean the disgusting interior
-fix leaking EGR pipe

My question is; do I need to replace the rad or is it alright because it's a 2010. The fittings look like the ones with two nuts. What else am I missing in my list?

Funny enough my current truck that it's replacing drove 700km today to buy it and it just blew a fuel line less than a 1km from home. Good timing I guess. My current rig is an old VW single cab truck. I'm going to miss it's cargo space (7'x9' bed + a 3'x5' enclosed belly compartment) and fuel mileage (approx 30mpg +). What I won't miss is it's so so reliability, 2WD in the snow, and lack of power.

Pics to follow once daylight hits. (What's the best way to upload pics on here; attachments or direct imgur links?)
A fellow Helicopter Pilot I suspect. You will love your Ridgeline. I have a 2006 and it is the best vehicle I have ever owned. It will more than likely outlive me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
Radiator ordered, as well as bleeders, rotors, pads, control arms, and some other random stuff. I didn't order new brake lines. I gather this stuff is no appropriate?

Also the driver's side butt warmer won't work on high. Any ideas?

Tomorrow I might get around to cleaning the inside. It's not going to be fun.

Also, is there a place I can get a digital service manual? I have no issues paying for one but the only place I could mails out CDs. I don't really have a CD drive nor do I want to pay $40 in shipping for a CD. I'm looking for a PDF.
Keep us posted on how the radiator replacement goes. I have 210,000 miles on my 2010 and still on the original one.
 
1 - 20 of 88 Posts
Top