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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
A fellow Helicopter Pilot I suspect. You will love your Ridgeline. I have a 2006 and it is the best vehicle I have ever owned. It will more than likely outlive me.
You're suspicion is correct. Problems with vehicles up here is not the engine or the mechanicals. It's the rust, it eventually consumes all. A lot of 2006/7/8/9/10s are being parted out, rust took out the rockers.

Keep us posted on how the radiator replacement goes. I have 210,000 miles on my 2010 and still on the original one.
I will. I ended up ordering it from someone more local than rockauto because they offer free shipping so it worked out cheaper. It will probably take longer to get here though.
 

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You're suspicion is correct. Problems with vehicles up here is not the engine or the mechanicals. It's the rust, it eventually consumes all. A lot of 2006/7/8/9/10s are being parted out, rust took out the rockers.



I will. I ended up ordering it from someone more local than rockauto because they offer free shipping so it worked out cheaper. It will probably take longer to get here though.
[/QUOTE
I understand, mine has always lived somewhere in the south in the states and so far has no corrision as of yet.:)
 

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Good day. I just bought a 2010 VP. It has 185k mi or 300km. Body was in surprisingly good shape for here and the price was, what I thought, quite good. I plan on doing the follow:
-Timing belt/tensioner/water pump
-fluids, all
-plugs
-valve adjust
-inspect brakes/CVs/suspension and replace as required. I think there might be a bad ball joint
-fluid film every single cavity I can find and then under coat the belly with something a little thicker
-clean the disgusting interior
-fix leaking EGR pipe

My question is; do I need to replace the rad or is it alright because it's a 2010. The fittings look like the ones with two nuts. What else am I missing in my list?

Funny enough my current truck that it's replacing drove 700km today to buy it and it just blew a fuel line less than a 1km from home. Good timing I guess. My current rig is an old VW single cab truck. I'm going to miss it's cargo space (7'x9' bed + a 3'x5' enclosed belly compartment) and fuel mileage (approx 30mpg +). What I won't miss is it's so so reliability, 2WD in the snow, and lack of power.

Pics to follow once daylight hits. (What's the best way to upload pics on here; attachments or direct imgur links?)
your VW single cab truck will pay (if you sell) for all your repairs on your Honda and you will have extra in the bank....!
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
your VW single cab truck will pay (if you sell) for all your repairs on your Honda and you will have extra in the bank....!
If your curious, here it is doing tow duty. Might sell, might not. Don't have to make a decision any time soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Out with the old and in with the new. In an attempt to get ride of a shimmy and vibration I replaced the lower control arms. One of the ball joints had a lot of play in it.




Here you can see that I didn't remove the sway bar link. I tried but I the nut was having issues, would only loosen a bit, and I ended up rounded the allen on it. Turns out having connected gave me no issues.


I didn't have a pickle fork that fit so this is how I got it out. Worked rather nicely.



Overall it was a fairly simple and straight forward job. Jack up truck, remove tire. Undo two bolts and one nut. Beat the the shit out of ball joint/knuckle until it submits to my authority. Wiggle control arm out (1. ball joint out, 2. front bushing, 3. rear compliance bushing). And then assembly is reverse of all that.

Went for a test drive. Shimmy and vibration still present. Next step is swap rims and tires.

Oh, can of course this. Not sure why there is oily dirt on there.
 

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2020 Ridgeline RTL-E Pacific Pewter
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any wheel bearing or tie rod end/steering play?
rotate tires to see if it changes?
vtm-4 drain & fill in rear diff? (you said you did all fluids, so assuming this is done)
how do engine mounts look?
I assume it would need an alignment at some point as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
any wheel bearing or tie rod end/steering play?
rotate tires to see if it changes?
vtm-4 drain & fill in rear diff? (you said you did all fluids, so assuming this is done)
how do engine mounts look?
I assume it would need an alignment at some point as well?
When in the air I can't feel any play at the wheels when I push/pull at the 6/12 and 3/9 oclock. I haven't replaced any fluids yet, I'm planning on it as parts come in. But if the rear diff is causing that kind of shimmy I doubt fluid is going to fix it. Interesting thought.

The feed back is definitely through the steering wheel. Feels a little 'notchy' while turning at low speed. I thought maybe a CV joint but doing tight circles in a parking lot was smooth. My personal experience of failing CVs is it is more noticeable the tighter the turn.

Tires are the next step anyways as I need to put winters on. Current tires are a worn out miss match of various brands and styles of tires. They need to be changed over regardless. I think I will run the current ones on the balancer to see if one of the front ones was bad.
 

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I would put replacing the PCV valve on your list after seeing that filter. It is a inexpensive and relatively easy swap out. It MIGHT be contributing towards the oily filter assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I got my winter tires mounted on some winter rims I found for cheap. It was very painful getting the old tires off. I found the source of my shimmy and severe vibration. One of the tires was messed. I ran it on the balancer for fun.



video




Test drive. The notchyness in the steering is gone. All that is left is a vibration/rumble at certain speeds. Hard to describe. Almost like driving over the sleeper/rumble strips on the side of the highway. Unaffected by acceleration, deceleration, braking, or shifting into neutral. I'm going to reseat the wheels in case one is not sitting right and I'm going to inspect the bearings. Not sure what else to look at. Nothing else to do, not visiting anyone these holidays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
I think my suspicions might have been right. 18" Honda Al rims take lug 90304-SJA-A91
, 17" Honda steelies take 90304-SHJ-A01

Info was found on the parts diagram and confirmed with this thread.



I thought it felt a little odd when I torqued them down. Interestingly enough 20 new lugs is more expensive than a new bearing. Labour is a lot easier though.

Edit: More info for those interested. The 18" alloys take a radius seat and the 17" steelies take a conical seat (rock auto part numbers/pictures/diagrams)
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Transmission fluid change question. Has any one done it this way?. I know it's not the prescribed Honda method. Basically you disconnect the return line from the rad/cooler and have it go into a bucket. You then start the car and keep pouring new DW1 into the fill hole until clean liquid comes out of the return line. 2 person job, if I were to do it I would have the wheels in the air and have the other person work the gears. It just seems like a more efficient way of doing it that the dilution method prescribed in the FSM.

I guess my only question is does that return line go to the 'sump' or does it go to something more critical. I can't seem to find that info online.
 

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Any sludge will stay on the bottom and may get pushed out during draining, not to mention the magnet plug needs clean.
I wouldn't over think it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I guess I cut off the beginning where he does the standard drain/fill. Maybe I am over thinking it.
 

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A normal 3.5 qt fluid change at regular maintenance is sufficient.
If you are experiencing any shudder or just want to make sure the fluid is exchanged, it's recommended to do 3X drain/fills with drive cycles in between.
Here is a chart that will shows the % using the drain fill method.
It's for swapping out Z1 for DW1, but it's still valid data IMHO.
.
Font Line Parallel Pattern Number
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
With nothing to do today I decided to get started on that timing belt. The only thing I was missing was the spark plugs and special crank pulley bolt. I will just do the T belt and maybe the valve adjustment. Spark plugs to follow. I am debating delaying the valve adjust so that I can do it at the same time as the plugs, should make turning the engine easier.

First thing I did was the crank pulley bolt. I wasn't sure if my impact wrench with normal socket could do it but after a few min and a battery change it did it. Victory.



I removed everything and it is a bit of a pain and took a long time. I'm pretty sure I could have had the engine out of my VW, change the clutch, done a valve adjustment, and but it back in in the same time it took me to get to the timing belt.

I think I had the original waterpump and tensioner.



The only other thing I noticed is that the serpentine tensioner bearing was really worn and the two bearings for the timing belt were also worn but not as bad. Hopefully that fixes the whine sound the truck makes through the RPMs.

Supper break now. Hopefully this evening I will see if I can finish the timing belt off.
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Sweet, thanks for the link. I don't know why I didn't hit upon that during all my searches.
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Wow, valve adjustments are a pain on this vehicle. I wonder why Honda didn't just use hydraulic lifters.

Here is my noisy tensioner pulley.
Link

Upon disassembly the PVC valve was stuck and broke into many pieces, it took some effort to get most of it out. There is still a piece floating around inside the valve cover. The forward bank had a lot of oil build up, I am not overly happy about that. The rear bank looked very clean. Is that a normal Honda thing?






Here are my feeler gauges. I have a go and a no-go gauge. That system has always worked for me. As expected all exhaust valves were tight. Intakes were all over the place. The jam nuts were on there something tight, I was not expecting that. My advice to anyone attempting this is do not do cylinder #1 first, skip it and start at #4. I would say #1 is the hardest so it's best to leave for last until you have a better feel for things.


Valve cover after a few min in the ultra sonic cleaner. I could only do one side at a time. Hopefully it cleaned up some of the internals.


After several rotations......on the money.


The initial timing looked slightly off, hard to tell, definitely less than a tooth, almost like the belt had stretched a little over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I failed at bleeding my brakes. Anyone ever see a bleed screw like this? It doesn't seem to work in any fashion.


It's 7/16-20 thread. My guess is I have a remanufactured caliper and they drilled out the existing port and tapped it out to a larger imperial thread. Either way I now have to try to find a PCV valve and a bleeder screw somewhere in town tomorrow. I don't think I am going to get very far with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Question: To anyone that has upgraded to MDX calipers, do 17" steelies fit over them?
 
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