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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Waiting for the dealership to open and FedEx to deliver parts I decided to keep busy. Didn't keep me busy for too long to be honest.



 

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Lights look good. What product did you use?
I haven't had luck in the past so I haven't tried anything new.
I was going to buy the Wifes CRV new lights. Think the set was $250ish for the pair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Nothing too crazy. Wet sand 1000 for starters, hit it with a 3M rubbing compound I had left over from another project using a thingy on a drill, then hit it with a much finer polish, finish it off with wax. Not sure how long it will last. Some say you should clear coat them afterwards. I tried that on the headlights, the paint can I used sort of ate the plastic. Made a mess of things, had to do a lot of sanding to clean it up. All in all it did not take me long, 20 min per headlight maybe?

Sanded to 1000 on the left, rubbing compound on the right


What it looks like after the first pass with the compound.

The stuff


I also had this left over from some other failed project idea. China special but it was cheap, came with a lot of different sanding discs, and worked. Not necessary for this project.


In all honesty though, there has to be at least 1000 Youtubes out there on 'headlight restoration. There seem to be two themes, polish or clear coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
The old motive was put to use. I believe it is on it's last legs. It wasn't sealing well this time. 15years old. I think next time i am going to try getting an adapter for my fluid extractor.



Honda dealership finally opened. I was able to order my PCV valve. None in stock in the province, has to be overnighted from somewhere else.
 
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
This evening was plugs, VTM-4, and the transfer case fluid. All went well. The transfer case fluid looked new. The VTM-4 stuff looked pretty good as well, not sure how much it darkens with use. The magnet had only the slightest dusting of grey on it.



Prices where I live.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Sig fixed.

Today I finally got some parts. Installed a new rad, pics are in the rad thread, flushed the power steer, flushed the transmission, changed the oil, and installed the new PCV valve.

Good news is that the engine works. Bad news is that it still makes a bit of a whine so I think I need a new power steering pump.

My oil filter had rust bubbles forming. WTF. Probably been on there a while.
 
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
So I still have a vibration starting at 40mph/60kph going away somewhat at 50mph/85kph and then coming back at 60mph/100kph.

  • I've balanced my tires a second time now after re-calibrating the machine - no change
  • I swapped the front and back tires - no change.
  • New lower control arms
  • Tie rod ends feel tight
  • No discernible play in the wheel when I push pull on them in the air
  • Not felt in the brakes what so ever
What I am thinking now is the strut mounts. The vibration frequency feels to be too high to be tire related. I feel it in the steering whee, seat, and cab. There is a bit of dull thunk/thud when I hit curbs/ice/road stuff, not very pronounced. My other thought would be a bad tire/rim but one would think it would change feel or go away swapping front to back.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Dang, that's an excellent thought!. This is why I like asking questions. I guess the only way to find out is to take out the prop shaft and go for a spin. Looks like $600CAD taxes/shipped to my door from Auto Truck Parts Canada. I can't complain too much about that.
 

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Earlier you said that the your vibration is independent of accel / decel/ engine speed. Is that still the case? Torque converter shudder is a common source of vibration. It typically occurs at around 45mph with the engine loafing along. It feels like a deep humming vibration. Hitting the accelerator smartly will get rid of it. As best as I can tell it occurs in 5th gear and the torque convertor seems to be between locking and unlocking. My 2006 did this very noticeably. My 2014 doesn't do it at all. Probably not your issue but just checking again about what the exact conditions are when you are feeling your vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
It is independent of accel/decel. I haven't tried neutral yet for some reason.

I measured the prop shaft runout as per the manual. Front is very little, back is around 1.3mm which is still within spec.

I did find something else though.
Vid of me turning the drive shaft
Vid of me turning the diff These seems to be some play in the diff splines as well. Not sure I like that.

I'm about to remove the shaft and see if there is any change.
 
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Blizbod, you were right on the money. Went for a drive with out the shaft and it's smooth. One of the u joints is completely froze. Looks like I need a need shaft. Shame on Honda for not making the u joint replaceable.

Backlash on the diff flange was within spec. Quite a lot of play is allowed back there.
 
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Blizbod, you were right on the money. Went for a drive with out the shaft and it's smooth. One of the u joints is completely froze. Looks like I need a need shaft. Shame on Honda for not making the u joint replaceable.

Backlash on the diff flange was within spec. Quite a lot of play is allowed back there.
Sounds like you found the issue. That's probably the hardest part. Now unfortunately, you need to throw more money at it! Keep the updates coming!
 

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Sig fixed.

Today I finally got some parts. Installed a new rad, pics are in the rad thread, flushed the power steer, flushed the transmission, changed the oil, and installed the new PCV valve.

Good news is that the engine works. Bad news is that it still makes a bit of a whine so I think I need a new power steering pump.

My oil filter had rust bubbles forming. WTF. Probably been on there a while.
Vortex,
I've been following your progress, mostly interested in the radiator you purchased from Rock Auto. My '08 (dark cherry pearl, same as your's!) suffered the dreaded SMOD event so I've had it in the garage over the holidays. My ATF cooler fittings looked very similar to yours so you'll be glad you did the radiator change. I also looked at creative ways to purge the tranny since mine had residual milkshake, but flushing the cooling system proved a much more difficult task! (But most of my fluids were on the road!) Anyway on the radiator (for which I'm still looking for the best replacement), which p/n did you buy? The Denso pictures on Rock A (p/n 2213249) looks to have the same tube density as my OEM Denso; the picture you posted (if that is the replacement rad in the background) seems to show a much less dense core. My OEM Denso was 119 tubes, whereas the aftermarket units I've seen so far have far fewer tubes (but with two-nut designs!). One other "Reach" brand (sold by NAPA) is well made but only has ~2/3rds the tube density. I tow with my Ridge so I prefer maximum surface area! The search goes on. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
drivetheridge. The rad in behind the oil filter is the old rad. Best as I can tell the denso is the same. I didn't count tubes.

Here are some better pics.





Maybe I will count tubes on my old one when I am back in my garage. That being said, I don't think you can simply count tubes or fin density and conclude that one rejects heat better than the other.

To purge my tranny I did a flush using the engine turning the pump. I was pouring new DW1 into the fill hole as dirty stuff was coming out of one of the cooler pipes. Wife was working the gears in the cab. To swap my coolant I did an okay job as it wasn't contaminated and I didn't care that much. I broke the drain nipple on the block so that complicated things. Basically I just went into the thermostat housing, I gently blew compressed air into whatever holes I could find and coolant came out the others. I used some Zerex Asian Blue because it was on sale. Fun fact, the red and blue are exactly the same, just a different dye. Both are POATs I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Drivetheridge,

I just looked at my old rad; yes it does look like it has a lot more vertical tubes. I suppose if you are worried about that you could just buy a new OEM one and accept the fact that in about 10 years it will have to be replaced.

TPMS!!!

So I just learned today that if you have the TPMS light on then you can't disable VSA which could come in handy if stuck in snow. After some research I am led to believe the TPMS will learn new sensors on it's own without needing any programming. My question is will the system still pick up new ebay 'genuine oem' sensors if they are in the cab or trunk somewhere? I don't care much for the system in general, it's especially painful seeing as I run winter and summer tires. I am thinking of building one of those PVC pressure vessels and putting 4 sensors in there and never having to deal with it again.

Edit: Never mind. After reading this it looks like the systems is complicated. Looks like my options are to wire a switch to the VSA fuse to disable it on demand, live with it as is, or install 8 TPMS sensors. I'm leaning toward option 3 but it is rather expensive.

Edit 2: What is the difference between 42753-SHJ-A53 and 06421-S3V-A04. One for steelies and one for aluminium?
 

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I seriously doubt that idea would work.
It wouldn't know what sensor for what wheel as the monitor is in each wheel well IIRC and checks for the signal like once a minute or something.
You would only need 29 lbs of pressure to keep the low tire warning light off as a side note.

Looking at Live PID data, I don't see anywhere that the VTM "requires" TPMS data to function properly, but I think the PCM may control the warning light and disable the VTM-4 switch.
 

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I would need to look at the Service Manual, but the PCM may disable the VSA and also be a issue with ABS.
Overall, I'd think you would be several headaches ahead if you just ran sensors in both sets of wheels....lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Not VTM, VSA. You can't turn VSA off if you have a TPMS light on.

VTM will still work but I would like the ability to disable VSA if stuck in snow.
 
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