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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Love the ingenuity and resourcefulness you show on this truck. Now if it was me I would have just put a reman alternator in there. 150 on Rockauto and its done. Not having to mess with fixing the old unit or potentially having to go back in and do the job again in 6 months is enough reason (for me) to spend the coin upfront and hopefully just do it once. YMMV
Ya, I definitely see that side of the argument. Somehow with shipping and core return that 150 is actually about $300CAD for me. Also about 5 days down time waiting for parts. If I want the part sooner I would have to go to a local NAPA and now I am at about $500. Dealership can overnight parts but that is even more expensive. No junk yards around here either.

Update. I installed some new TPMS sensors and my TPMS light went out. Snow storm tomorrow, I should be able to turn of VSA and see what it does. Ali Express TPMS sensors. My short term experience.
 
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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Well, I'm back to working on my truck. Busy with a bunch of stuff and then there was a substantial incident at work that resulted in me getting a broken back. All better now more or less. Time for brakes!

Rears are getting new pads and rotors and rebuilt calipers. I would do the brake lines but they look pristine and it's a lot of work dealing with siezed fittings.

Before:\


Remove the caliper and retract the shoes.


This is what the adjuster looks like both extended and retracted if anyone doesn't know what to look for.




If you don't retract the shoes they can get caught up on the lip of the drum and then this happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 · (Edited)
These are the parts I will be using. Not expensive. As always, get 3 rebuild kits incase you tear one learning how to do it.


What I am working with.


Video of the piston coming out. Watch your fingers, it can be very violent.


Piston before shot.


Inside the bore. When you clean I wouldn't recommend as wire wheel as some calipers have fancy coatings.


Piston after. As long as there is no pitting in the lower section you're good to go.


Back together. I didn't bother getting the rust off or painting it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Video of how to get the boot on. It's 1min long. Real action is at 30 seconds. Basically you get the boot into the caliper, there is a tiny grove that needs to be cleaned out first. Then you use compressed air to get the boot around the piston. The thing on top is just a scrap piece of metal so I wouldn't have to stick my fingers there.


Here is the left over stuff.


New and old. The new stuff is on the left if you couldn't tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Fronts are next. Installing the MDX calipers I built a while back. I am using EBC brakes. Overall, so far, I am disapointed and wished I had went with another brand. Reasons are; 1) Their distributor in Canada sucks. Unable to do returns, get updates, or basic info. Bit of lie too but that might have just been incompetance, 2) For the price of buying such a premium kit you would think they would include the pad hardware. Nope, and 3) Their fancy black coating didn't even survive being in a box. I went with coated rotors for corrosion purposes. This is disappointing. Now, there is a chance the any corrosion coating is underneath but still, disappointing if you fancy black paint can't even survive shipping.

Anyhoo....

Before.


Don't forget to take out those little philips screws. They can be a pain and strip on you. good luck.


Everything off.


New tool. It's to help 'surface' the hub face so you don't get the wobbles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
oooOOOooo.


EBC's fancy coated rotors..........



All done.


I still have to reassemble the rears, I can only do that after I get replacement hardware. Then I have to bleed. I'll show my process for single person bleeding. Should be good times.
 

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That's too bad about the EBC rotors. It does indeed look like a very poor job done on the coating. The dimpled slotted set that I got were very well coated and the coating has held up well keeping any corrosion at bay. The Yellowstuff pads provide quite aggressive bite but they are dusty and wear relatively quickly . . .Here's a pic of the fronts when they were new.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle brake Locking hubs
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Time to continue.

New bits and pieces for the rear parking brakes. If you value your sanity don't do this.


Before, very rusty.


This is what the parking brake lever thing looks like. It was starting to sieze up a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I took it appart, cleaned, and replaced the clip.


This is what it all looks like after. Still very rusty but now with colourful springs.


All bling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
This is how I bleed brakes. I use a motive power bleeder with the universal attachment. It's hard to get a good seal, make sure you pressure test it without fluid in the canister or there is a good chance you will make a mess. Set 10psi or less and just go around to each corner in whatever order you're supposed to and bleed them individually. I also depress the brake pedal multiple times as each bleeder is open. I've always done it this way and I never bother bench bleeding master cylinders either. This is why I like this method, it is truely a one person job. You can just leave the bleeder open. All you have to do is make sure the canister doesn't run dry and give it a few pumps every so often.



I tried doing a vacuum at the same time but it was more trouble than it was worth.


Old tried and true method.
 

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Excellent write up. Should help folks down the road when they try and do something similar.

I have one of the Motive bleeders, I got it when I had my E350 which required bleeds every 2 years (gotta love the Germans and their high maintenance schedules). I would use it to pressurize the master cylinder but not with fluid just air as it appears you are doing. It worked well, just open the bleeder screw and wait for the fluid color to change. You just had to make sure you monitored the level in the master cylinder so you didn't run it too low.

You mentioned problems with the vacuum bleeders. When I tried to use one I ran into problems with air leaking in around the screw threads so it looked like you had lots of air in the lines. Is that the same problem you ran into? Just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
You mentioned problems with the vacuum bleeders. When I tried to use one I ran into problems with air leaking in around the screw threads so it looked like you had lots of air in the lines. Is that the same problem you ran into? Just curious.
Yup, I even tried grease on the nipple but till had air seeping in. I tried doing both pressure and vacuum at the same time but till had air seeping in. Decided to just do the pressure bleeding only. I put fluid in the canister and do it that way.

I went for a test drive later on. Breaks still feel a littel mush but I think that is just due to 4 rebuilt calipers, they migth be retracting the pistons a little too much causing more pedal travel. It should improve over time. I also have to readjust my parking brake as expected. Idealy I should have actioned the parking brake a few times while the tires were still off to recentre the shoes. From then do the final shoe adjustment. Oh well.
 

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I was watching some backyard mechanic on youtube using one and proclaiming how much air he was getting out of the lines. I commented that it was probably coming in through the threads and he or some other joker jumped down my throat with how can they sell so many of them if the design doesnt work. I didnt bother to respond. Least I know I'm not that crazy since you had the same issues with em.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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I like that Motive Power Bleeder too. I bought and sold one years ago because I made such a mess using the universal adapter. But after trying various vacuum methods (Harbor Freight tool with compressed air and a MityVac MV7201 with adapter), I bought another Motive Power Bleeder. I had so much air leakage with the vacuum methods I didn't like the process. And a gravity bleed takes a long time.

This time I bought an adapter for the Motive to use next time I have a Honda brake fluid job to do.

 

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Very interesting videos and instructions for us amateurs, @vortex ring state. Thank you for taking the time to share the procedures with us. Glad you are "back in the saddle" so to speak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
Very interesting videos and instructions for us amateurs, @vortex ring state. Thank you for taking the time to share the procedures with us. Glad you are "back in the saddle" so to speak.
Thanks. I just hope I am not giving false hope or 'a little bit of information is a dangerous thing' to some people out there and getting them into trouble.

I also did this last weekend. DIY HID Projector install.
 
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