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Discussion Starter #1
I know I saw some posting about this, but my searches have turned up nothing

How does the In-Bed Truck Lock work?

Does it take power to lock it or power to unlock it?

If it takes power to lock it that means there is always power there?



BobVal
 

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Not sure how much I can help but it unlocks with the fob being close and you depressing the latch. It locks when you walk away (with lock-away auto locking) or with the fob.
 

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I know I saw some posting about this, but my searches have turned up nothing

How does the In-Bed Truck Lock work?

Does it take power to lock it or power to unlock it?

If it takes power to lock it that means there is always power there?



BobVal
yes, it is an electric lock. Sounds like you have a plan in mind...
 

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^^ ?? Why could this not also power the tailgate lock as found on the Pop N Lock??
Excellent Question!
It probably could be done. However, the trunk cable disappears into the hinge area. I wasn't able to locate the cable under the trunk. Without a lift, it wasn't possible to poke around. We also don't have a wiring diagram for the truck to help track the wires down.
 

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I seem to remember that the Trunk Lock uses a different type of Controller signal then the doors (which is a simple Plus Pulse or Minus Pulse to lock/unlock). It was discussed in a thread on here somewhere. Not sure WHY Honda got fancy with the Trunk lock... lol
 

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I seem to remember that the Trunk Lock uses a different type of Controller signal then the doors (which is a simple Plus Pulse or Minus Pulse to lock/unlock). It was discussed in a thread on here somewhere. Not sure WHY Honda got fancy with the Trunk lock... lol
so...is it possible to get the honda trunk lock and make it work for the tailgate?
 

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The trunk lock operation is similar to a door lock operation, it just operates on a different circuit. A door lock is basically just plunger that moves back and to move the door lock linkage. The trunk lock is similar in that power runs to a switch, which you then push to actuate the plunger that moves the linkage that opens the trunk. When you lock your doors, the solenoid plunger moves the door lock linkage into the locked position and interrupts the power circuit that goes to the button that opens the trunk. When you unlock the doors, the plunger moves the linkage to unlock the doors and re-energizes the circuit for your trunk open button.

For the tailgate lock, you need the same momentary power to move the linkage that moves the linkage on the door locks, not the constant power that goes to the trunk button. If the trunk worked the same as the doors, the trunk would pop open every time you unlocked the doors. I don't think you'd find that amusing very long.

You probably could use the trunk circuit, but it would involve adding relays, complicating things further.
 

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The trunk lock operation is similar to a door lock operation, it just operates on a different circuit. A door lock is basically just plunger that moves back and to move the door lock linkage. The trunk lock is similar in that power runs to a switch, which you then push to actuate the plunger that moves the linkage that opens the trunk. When you lock your doors, the solenoid plunger moves the door lock linkage into the locked position and interrupts the power circuit that goes to the button that opens the trunk. When you unlock the doors, the plunger moves the linkage to unlock the doors and re-energizes the circuit for your trunk open button.

For the tailgate lock, you need the same momentary power to move the linkage that moves the linkage on the door locks, not the constant power that goes to the trunk button. If the trunk worked the same as the doors, the trunk would pop open every time you unlocked the doors. I don't think you'd find that amusing very long.

You probably could use the trunk circuit, but it would involve adding relays, complicating things further.
I stand corrected. Good point! I hadn't considered the differences.
 

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makes sense
 

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^ Good Explanation. So.....as they say on Myth Busters: Plausible, but not practical? ;)
Another viewpoint, if it helps. Doors are safety-latched (two-stage), you have to mechanically unlatch. The locking for that type of latch is, for the lack of better terminology, a PERMIT or NON-PERMITTED unlatch (the plunger slides to one or the other, just like your hand in the cabin). Essentially for those two positions to take place, the plunger needs to reside in either Condition-0 or Condition-1 states. Chosen by way of a positive pulse... or a negative pulse... or maybe opposing plungers, but the last condition wins and it remains in that state. This pos/neg style pulse can be triggered by the Key-Fob (obviously).

A trunk of a car (hence the trunk of the RL), is an instant release. The condition is momentary. So there is only one pulse... let's say only a positive pulse needed to momentarily condition the actuator so the latch can pop. Since it is momentary, the spring loaded latch resets, and you need to repeat. And there is no such thing as a negative pulse. And this pos pulse is not able to be triggered by the Key-Fob. Power is cut to it, if the Fob is not in range... power is allowed if the Fob is in range.

The tailgate cannot just be pulsed and unlatched under a single condition. Because there are two latches (two handles), drop or swing. So the gate handle(s) need to have a common/shared/centralized restriction in place to call it LOCKED... this is like the Pop N Lock method. Or each handle have it's own restriction. There are only two ways to do that if it is shared.

a) Either Permit/Non-Permit the shared-common point... (just like doors internal and external handle). Because this would be a 0 or 1 state, it could be controlled by the key-fob logic of the doors. Hence that tap into the B-Pillar to adapt the pos/neg logic used in the doors.

b) Or provide a momentary switch for the release activation at EACH handle for that particular latch. Not controllable by the key-fob. This is the way the trunk logic is designed. the momentary switch is embedded into the handle. Squeeze the switch, if the fob is near, the power triggers the latch.

Option B would get costly to retrofit for the two handles. Although one "could", like SUV's do this with powered-rear doors. But... HONDA didn't make it that way. So it is an expensive replacement.

Edit: As stated below, if a person wanted to dedicate a plunger to behave as a deadbolt lock, that could be done. But it doesn't change any of the above description. You would need to:
a) Use a momentary plunger. Then provide a momentary button somewhere to use WHILE using the handle(s) to open the gate. This would turn into a TWO-HANDED operation (and you cannot use the fob for this).
b) Or use a two-state plunger (lock/unlock), not a momentary and interface it to the door logic. Again, this could be usable by the fob.
 

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^^^All the more reason, IMO, for Honda to just copy the new Tacoma tailgate lock. A simple mechanical lock using the key embedded in the fob (or a separate larger tailgate key if necessary). They might have to stamp a new key hole next to the door handle due to space issues with the camera in the existing handle, but that's no big deal.

I know, I know -- not as convenient as an electric lock and doesn't meet everyone's desires but it would probably be simpler and less costly than a new wiring harness and solenoid, and it would need no fail-safe mechanism for a broken wire or dead battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
My thought was if there was power there when it unlocked then maybe something like this 1Pc DC12V 0.8A Mini Electric Bolt Lock Small Cabinet Lock Solenoid Lock | eBay could be mounted inside the tailgate.

Simple solenoid. When has power pulls back and when doesn't move out.

I got the Email about the poplock being available but I'm a little old to be ripping the truck interior apart and if I have to pay someone qualified it is going to be probably 2 shop hours at $85 - $115 per hour. Great so now that lock is going to cost me 3 or more bills. I probably wouldn't have much trouble with the tailgate and running wires to the trunk power.

This type R6H1 12V Electronic Door Lock RFID Access Control for Cabinet Drawer Door | eBay might be even better as it is a slam lock so just closing the door would lock it.

Just kicking around some ideas while waiting for my DB cover to be manufactured and delivered


I should probably just go with one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hardware-Sliding-Door-Latch-Nickel-Stainless-Steel-Bar-Home-Security-Flush-Mount-/172414152067?hash=item2824af2d83:g:pUgAAOSwcLxYMFig
 

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My thought was if there was power there when it unlocked then maybe something like this 1Pc DC12V 0.8A Mini Electric Bolt Lock Small Cabinet Lock Solenoid Lock | eBay could be mounted inside the tailgate.
]

It's a thought. But remember still... It doesn't change any of the above description. You would need to, either:

A) Provide a momentary button somewhere to pull back the bolt while you are unlatching the gate. This would turn into a TWO-HANDED operation (and you cannot use the fob to lock/unlock). But if you did tap into the trunk logic, the power would only be available when the fob is within range. But, again two hand operation.

B) Or interface it to the door logic to use deadbolt style plunger to either set the condition to locked or unlocked. Again, usable by the fob... this is not what you are suggesting.

Anything is possible with enough beer and chips.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Two handed operation is not a problem.

My though was if the truck lock engaged power when the FOB was near then maybe that same engagement would disengage the solenoid.

Something does sense that the FOB is near, if that sensor is actually turning on power (so you can grab the truck handle to unlock the trunk) then maybe that would automatically put power to the solenoid causing it to unlock and in this case would be a totally hands free operation

Just a thought.

I really think what I might do is once I have my DB on. Is put a pin in the DB top so when it closes on the tailgate it puts a pin in it to stop it from opening. Now this really becomes a two handed or two lock problem because now I have to unlock and open the DB cover before my tailgate is unlocked.

Just spinning my wheels for something easier then running wires from the rear to the front of the car to open the trunk like a door.
This is to me a case where I really want the FOB to open the door just because I am standing there.
 

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Tailgate Latch

Hi, new member here. I am shopping at this time and interested in the new Ridgeline.

I own two Audis, a Q5 and a S3. On the Audi's when you unlock the vehicle, a solenoid retracts a latch for the gas tank fill flap. When the vehicle is locked, the solenoid and latch is extended and the flap cannot be opened.

It would seem this could be a solution for the Ridgeline tailgate. If this solenoid latch extended on the upper right side of the tailgate, it would prevent the tailgate from opening down or as a door.

I leave you this thought and hope someone could take the idea a bit further.
 

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Tailgate lock

Recently installed Pop & Lock. Didn't want to tear apart interior. Tapped into power in the trailer harness and installed a momentary contact switch in the lower portion of the bumper. Works great. Only inconvenience is the ignition has to be on or at least in accessory position although that increases security as the trailer wire is only powered in that position.
 

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There is a switch in the glove box...lower left. The position of that switch determines if the trunk is locked with the doors or not. In the on position the trunk locks/unlocks with the key fob. In the off position it stays locked and you have to use your key to open it.
 
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