Install AC outlets in rear

10402 Views 24 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Carsmak, May 30, 2019

outwrdbound

Discussion Starter · Mar 3, 2017

I am planing on doing a pretty substantial refit of my RL, adding headrest entertainment, the OEM back-up camera, replacing the headliner, burnt out dash bulbs, etc... I plan to keep this truck for many more years to come, so the mods and refurbishment will be worth it. One thing I would like to do is add AC power outlets to the rear seating area. Has anyone done something like this before? I found a few threads, one discussing USB power and another discussing using the OEM power outlet from the 09+, but couldn't find anything in regards to the rear. I know an easy approach would be to add an inverter, but I don't want to lose the 12v DC outlet back there and we frequently have 2 adults and a child in the back, so I am afraid that the inverter or its plug could become damaged rather easily. Ideally, I would like to add the outlets into the centre console below the current DC outlet, giving it a clean look and keeping the outlets out of the way. Any thoughts on this?

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NYStyle

· #2 · Mar 4, 2017

Do you have space under a seat for an inverter? That would keep everything out of the way. I added a couple of Velcro strips to mine, back in the day, that worked well. Wouldn't you need an inverter anyway? I'm not smart enough on DC outlets...

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Carsmak

· #3 · Mar 5, 2017

Definately need an Inverter, but other than the OEM outlet on the later years, (not even sure which years, models had it, if possible maybe someone with the FSM for the later RL's can post some info on where and what Honda did. I know there is some significant space behind the rear seats, (and I've seen amps back there) but not sure what inverter ventilation requirements are. And not familiar what would be the best routing for AC wiring, or what type of wiring you should use, ROMEX, is probably incorrect.

Over the years, I've seen some crazy AC outlets/inverter posts on other vehicle forums and forums such as Instructables. Here's an interesting post, How to install a cool looking power panel in your vehicle

There are some fairly knowledgable members on this forum, really a matter of getting the correct person or persons to see this thread.

I'm going to be subscribing and looking forward to the results.

Elkhunter

· #4 · Mar 5, 2017 (Edited)

I bought an inverter to mount under the seat or under the hood and to be hard wired to the battery. The outlet was going to go on the rear of the center console using a single gang old work outlet box. Just never got around to doing it yet.

Stay away from the cigarette lighter inverters. They don't really have the ooomph to run anything worth wild.

Just for kicks, I've also thought about adding an outlet in the trunk...perhaps some day

NYStyle

· #5 · Mar 5, 2017

One in the trunk would be easy to do. Especially if you use some of the DIY plans that are on this forum for trunk organization.
And yes, running the wires, either direct from the battery, or from the battery to an additional fuse panel some where in the truck for the inverter. I used the fuse panel in my Accord when I used to show it. I had a resettable circuit breaker coming straight off of the battery under the hood, that went to my fuse panel. That allowed me to run all the additional lighting and crap that I had in my car.

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McChizzle

· #6 · Mar 6, 2017 (Edited)

I'm not an expert in any of this, but I wanted to share some thoughts that my be of use. The rear DC outlet is tied to a 10A fuse; so adding anything to those wires is a bad idea. In 2009, Honda added a 115V/100W AC outlet to the inside of the center console with an inverter that's mounted under the front passenger seat; so if you can find that system with the installation instructions, maybe you could add it with an outlet that face rearward.

Here's a thread where ROC member @ChrisM figured out how to do what you're asking about: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/9-1g-mobile-electronics/31308-power-inverter.html

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outwrdbound

Discussion Starter · #7 · Mar 6, 2017

Thanks for the replies and insight. I was mainly looking to see if anyone knew where Honda installed the 09+ inverter or for ideas on where it could be installed. I will see if I have room under my passenger seat to install one. I am not sure, never really looked under there before. I have the factory Navigation system, so there is very little room under the driver's seat as that is where the DVD player for the Navi sits. Another thought I had was to install additional DC outlets but with USB plugs instead of the traditional DC outlet (but keeping the current DC outlet back there). Most devices we would plug in back there would be USB anyway. I like the idea of an outlet in the trunk, something I have thought about but never tried. I will be attempting the factory back-up camera later this year.

I recently installed the Honda accessory BlueConnect bluetooth speaker in place of the sunglass holder, works like a charm!

McChizzle

· #8 · Mar 8, 2017

outwrdbound said:
Thanks for the replies and insight. I was mainly looking to see if anyone knew where Honda installed the 09+ inverter or for ideas on where it could be installed. I will see if I have room under my passenger seat to install one. I am not sure, never really looked under there before. ...

Here's a picture of the OEM inverter under the passenger seat of my 09 RTL (with nav.):

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Heli ATP

· #9 · Mar 8, 2017 (Edited)

outwrdbound said:
I am planing on doing a pretty substantial refit of my RL, adding headrest entertainment, the OEM back-up camera, Any thoughts on this?

Here is what I did for Headrest entertainment...

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...touchscreen-headrest-dvd-player-monitors.html

Many have had good results with ebay rear cameras...

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/9-1g-mobile-electronics/30317-back-up-camera.html

smufguy

· #10 · Mar 13, 2017

You should not have the inverter in the engine bay. Anything over 500W should get a 0-gauge cabling. Due to the lack of spacing, 500W and under inverters can fit under the seat (do not mount them to the floor). I have a 400W under the seat and hardwired.

I recommend that you use a vertical outlet (120V) for the rear, under the 12V outlet. Make sure your peak power draw of electronics do not exceed the 90% peak power rating on the inverter. If possible, see if you can get a 12V conversion accessories for all your electronic goodies from the item manufacturer. Also, ensure the 120V outlets have that fancy trip buttons on them.... basically pretend that they will get pee or water on them.

Though mounting in the trunk is a good solution for inverters, make sure they wont get wet on a rainy day when you have to change a flat or get to your trunk to get something out. Inside the cabin is your best solution and NEVER behind the rear seat. Amps are fine behind the seat as they do not get too hot as no one pushes 1000W of pure audio outrage everyday.

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ISO Truck

· #11 · Mar 13, 2017

outwrdbound said:
... Another thought I had was to install additional DC outlets but with USB plugs instead of the traditional DC outlet (but keeping the current DC outlet back there). Most devices we would plug in back there would be USB anyway....

^^This is probably your best solution, given how you plan to use these outlets.

If you install an AC inverter, primarily so that you can plug in USB wall chargers, your are taking the DC current created by the alternator, inverting it to AC, then converting it back to DC for the USB chargers. That is very inefficient and completely unnecessary.

You're much better off hard-wiring USB outlets into the existing DC system. It would look very slick to install two USB outlets in the rear adjacent or under the existing DC outlet. While you're at it, you might add one to the "blank" in the panel upfront, between the seat warmer switches. (And if you don't have seat warmer switches, then you should have three "blanks", so you have all sorts of possibilities...)

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outwrdbound

Discussion Starter · #12 · Mar 18, 2017

ISO Truck said:
^^This is probably your best solution, given how you plan to use these outlets.

If you install an AC inverter, primarily so that you can plug in USB wall chargers, your are taking the DC current created by the alternator, inverting it to AC, then converting it back to DC for the USB chargers. That is very inefficient and completely unnecessary.

You're much better off hard-wiring USB outlets into the existing DC system. It would look very slick to install two USB outlets in the rear adjacent or under the existing DC outlet. While you're at it, you might add one to the "blank" in the panel upfront, between the seat warmer switches. (And if you don't have seat warmer switches, then you should have three "blanks", so you have all sorts of possibilities...)

Thank you, in researching this and reading this thread, I am coming to this conclusion myself. I have only found one device that I would actually use AC power for and at that, I can get a DC adapter for it rather cheaply and easily. I should be able to drill two more holes and splice into the existing wire for the current power outlet to add 2 additional DC outlets, no? I would probably convert the existing DC outlet to USB.

For the front switch blanks, I have an RTL, so only one blank due to the seat warmers. Is there a good USB outlet that would fit that switch blank? It looks like a somewhat unique size, but of course I could be way off since I only have a 2009 Yaris and 2011 Camry to compare it to.

Cheers.

Carsmak

· #13 · Mar 18, 2017

Search Amazon and you can find devices such as this one, Cllena Dual USB Car Charger with Audio Port Socket for Honda Acura Cars Blank or this Dual USB Charger,Futuresky 5V 2.1A/2.1A Dual USB Power Socket for Smart Phone PDA Ipad Iphone Quick Charger,charger Cable for HONDA (black-honda)

I have also found them on other sites.

Good Luck

McChizzle

· #14 · Mar 18, 2017 (Edited)

outwrdbound said:
... I should be able to drill two more holes and splice into the existing wire for the current power outlet to add 2 additional DC outlets, no? I would probably convert the existing DC outlet to USB. ...

Be careful about tapping into the existing wiring on the rear DC outlet for it's tide to a 10A fuse (that's not much). In other words, adding a couple USB plugs should be fine (they can pull up to 4A each in some applications). However, if you do that and you also try to power something that had a good draw from the DC outlet (a DVD/game player) at the same time, you will blow the fuse. Here's what I use in the rear DC outlet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISGCAJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_zMpZybSEFXYC5

I've had the same issue with the front two DC outlines. The two are tide to a single/shared 15A fuse, so if I have devices plugged into both outlets and they each have a heavy draw, the fuse will pop.

Keep in mind that devices, such as tire inflators, can draw up to 20A when under strain; so...

speedlever

· #15 · Mar 18, 2017

McChizzle said:
Be careful about tapping into the existing wiring on the rear DC outlet for it's tide to a 10A fuse (that's not much). In other words, adding a couple USB plugs should be fine (they can pull up to 4A each in some applications). However, if you do that and you also try to power something that had a good draw from the DC outlet (a DVD/game player) at the same time, you will blow the fuse. Here's what I use in the rear DC outlet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISGCAJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_zMpZybSEFXYC5

I've had the same issue with the front two DC outlines. The two are tide to a single/shared 15A fuse, so if I have devices plugged into both outlets and they each have a heavy draw, the fuse will pop.

Keep in mind that devices, such as tire inflators, can draw up to 20A when under strain; so...

So 15A x 12v = 180 watts... or 90w per outlet if shared. Can one outlet do the full 180w?

Regarding tire inflators, some come with clamps and power directly from the battery. That seems the better option to avoid popping fuses.

McChizzle

· #16 · Mar 18, 2017 (Edited)

speedlever said:
So 15A x 12v = 180 watts... or 90w per outlet if shared. Can one outlet do the full 180w?

Regarding tire inflators, some come with clamps and power directly from the battery. That seems the better option to avoid popping fuses.

For the front two 12V outlets, that's correct. All three 12V outlets give me more wattage than I get with my 115V AC outlet in my 09 RTL; but my cellphone does appear to charge faster using the AC outlet than any of the DC outlets. :act018:

I went another way with my inflator. Since the seven-pin trailer wiring harness can put out 20A of 12V power (240W) to support electric trailer brakes etc, I tap into that power when I need to air up my truck or trailer tires; plus plugging-in at the rear bumper makes it easier to reach my trailer and bed. When you have bias ply trailer tires that requires 55 PSI, you need a good inflator.

Here's my inflator setup:

eurban

· #17 · Mar 18, 2017 (Edited)

McChizzle said:
Be careful about tapping into the existing wiring on the rear DC outlet for it's tide to a 10A fuse (that's not much). In other words, adding a couple USB plugs should be fine (they can pull up to 4A each in some applications). However, if you do that and you also try to power something that had a good draw from the DC outlet (a DVD/game player) at the same time, you will blow the fuse. Here's what I use in the rear DC outlet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISGCAJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_zMpZybSEFXYC5

I've had the same issue with the front two DC outlines. The two are tide to a single/shared 15A fuse, so if I have devices plugged into both outlets and they each have a heavy draw, the fuse will pop.

Keep in mind that devices, such as tire inflators, can draw up to 20A when under strain; so...

Do you know which fuse it is for the rear power outlets? I was using my newer more powerful tire inflater in the rear outlet and must of blown a fuse as the outlet has stopped working. Admittedly I put in very little effort (looked on the fuse panel / owners manual) but didn't find the fuse. Everything else seems to work fine so I have ignored the issue for a couple of years . . .

BTW, the front outlets have had no issues with my inflater.

Thanks!

LATER ON: OK, I got off my butt and checked the factory service manual. It looks like its fuse #9 on the inside panel which is 10amp as you say. Never mind!

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McChizzle

· #18 · Mar 18, 2017

2

eurban said:
... I got off my butt and checked the factory service manual. It looks like its fuse #9 on the inside panel which is 10amp as you say. ...

You got it! There are spare fuses in the primary fuse box in the engine compartment, but I don't know if any of them are 10A or not. If not, 10A fuses are easy to get at your nearby parts store.

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ISO Truck

· #19 · Mar 19, 2017

McChizzle,

In the schematics above, any idea which one of the fuses is for the trailering harness? Thanks!

McChizzle

· #20 · Mar 19, 2017 (Edited)

2

ISO Truck said:
McChizzle,

In the schematics above, any idea which one of the fuses is for the trailering harness? Thanks!

I definitely know where one of the fuses is located and I think I know the other as well. There are three fuse boxes in our RL, two under the hood and one in the cab. What Honda calls, the "secondary under-hood fuse box" is where I think it all resides. --It's located in the engine bay on the driver's side.-- The electric trailer brake fuse is definitely in that box (#6) as is the stop/turn lights (#8); however, I'm not certain how the running/parking lights are fused, maybe they all use #8. --It appears common for trailer lights to use the same fuses as the truck's lights; so if your left-turn signal went out on your truck it will go out on your trailer as well.-- So I think the fuses I've highlighted are the right ones.

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