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Discussion Starter #1
New 2019 RTL and decided to upgrade the speakers to some 2 way JBL. After installing the first one, checked the sound with the engine off, all fine. Did all four and again checked and all fine. Then I decided to run to the store and when I started the engine a low level hum came from the speakers and eventually went away after a couple minute. It did this again on the way home... Even makes the noise with the head unit off... suggestions?
 

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Which specific JBL model, and did you buy through a known reputable seller?

Sadly there are lots of inferior JBL (and other consumer audio name) knock-off products distributed in the US, many with very convincing packaging and product appearance.

I know that the HU is 'live' with the engine on even with "Audio Off" in the RTL-E / BE - this to support the Active Noise Cancellation function; I'm not sure if the RTL has ANC without checking specs for that trim.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
JBL GX628 from Best Buy... nothing is cheaper than the stock speakers... was not aware of ANC but I can look into it as well. Thanks. I’m guessing it’s a shielding or ground issue... the stock speakers sat inside a plastic ring shielding them from contact with the truck.
 

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OK, I'd not have a concern about knock-off / grey market products with Best Buy.

I'm skeptical that shielding / ground is the issue assuming that all you did was swap / alter the connection at the speakers and took reasonable care with your connections at that point. I suppose it's possible that the JBLs are able to reproduce an inherent system-generated hum that the OE speakers could not, but that strikes me as unlikely.

Did you use one of the commonly available plug-in pigtail adaptors or did you cut/splice at the OE speaker connectors? Is the hum identical at all four replacement speakers?

Mounting might be the issue but with careful listening (awkward ear-close-to-the-speaker) you should be able to discern between sound emanating from the cone vs from vibration at points of contact with the mounting surface and/or the covering trim panel.

A bit of a pain to pull apart a door again, but doing a listening test when the hum is present but with a speaker un-mounted / held in your hand would reveal whether or not mounting vibration is the issue. If you do that 'test' and hear the hum with the speaker held in your hand it'd be interesting to know if the hum is from the woofer cone, the tweeter dome, or both.

ANC should not be an issue - just mentioned that to explain why you might hear sound when Audio is Off.

I'm trying to focus on specific things changed in conjunction with the speaker swap - anything else done at that time that comes to mind?

Puzzling indeed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I spliced and then individually soldered each connection. Your ideas are all valid and when I get a chance I’ll try to listen to each speaker and then also take them out to see if the hum disappears when not installed... never dawned on me to start the truck when I installed them or I’m sure it would have happened immediately and been easier to trace / correct. Thanks for your assistance.
 

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No worries, you've piqued my curiosity, good luck with the investigation, please do come back to this thread to update your findings.

Welcome to ROC, hope that otherwise you're enjoying your new RL :)
 

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So the plot thickens... had to run an errand to the bank and noticed when I started the vehicle, no noise... as I put it in drive the hum began and got louder as I drove off... so I slipped it into neutral and the humming immediately subsided... I repeated this several times... same results, with the car in drive the hum is related to engine rpm... noise does subside after a couple of minute... very odd indeed!

I hope to have more time this weekend to investigate more options. Thanks all for your help!
 

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I find that all trims do have ANC, and now second guessing myself wonder if it's not playing nice with the frequency response / sensitivity of the JBLs (ANC would vary based on RPM / other noise conditions). ANC in the RL mainly acts on the sub, but also to some degree on the woofers for other 'low frequency' noise cancellation.

So, among the things you might look at after all else fails is disabling ANC to see if that helps? Or maybe try it first if you can do it easy via the 'hidden' menu controls ….


The 'menu disable' would prevent the generation of cancellation sounds, the module disconnect would eliminate the module's electronics form the system circuit, those being two different things in terms of potential sources of 'hum'.
 

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I’m wondering if the positive and negative wires for some of the speakers might be wrong, soldering them on like he did. This might be part of the issue, but what do I know?🙄
We used to tell some people if the speakers were wired backwards positive to negative terminal and negative to positive the sound would come out backwards. 🙄
Might have a few crossed in the wiring. It’s nice to have the plug and play adapters in this case. Not sure this is the problem, but it might be....like I said, what do I know?
 

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Sounds like an ANC issue but so far we’ve only seen this issue when changing the sub out. the humming noise is super obvious. But haven’t heard about folks encountering issue with ANC and door speakers
Swaps...yet.

It could also be a polarity issue or grounding since it’s reacting to engine noise/power.


Btw ALL trims have ANC
 

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And for future reference for people that don’t want to cut wires. The Metra 72-7800 Speaker harness works for all doors speakers on the Ridgeline. Plug and play. $5+- for the pair on amazon. Amazon list as not compatible but it’s the same for most Honda’s. I used it for all 4 doors speakers on my RL.
 

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Okay, because when you run power wires and rca wires down the same side (power and rca wires touching each other) can cause road noise or the humming that you described. The molding around the speakers won't be the issue. The factory amp on the head unit might not be strong enough or as stated before check the grounding. Sorry I couldn't be of any more help. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I find that all trims do have ANC, and now second guessing myself wonder if it's not playing nice with the frequency response / sensitivity of the JBLs (ANC would vary based on RPM / other noise conditions). ANC in the RL mainly acts on the sub, but also to some degree on the woofers for other 'low frequency' noise cancellation.

So, among the things you might look at after all else fails is disabling ANC to see if that helps? Or maybe try it first if you can do it easy via the 'hidden' menu controls ….


The 'menu disable' would prevent the generation of cancellation sounds, the module disconnect would eliminate the module's electronics form the system circuit, those being two different things in terms of potential sources of 'hum'.
I can’t help but wonder if there is simply a fuse that would cancel the ANC system? I haven’t had a chance to look at this yet... was also thinking about plastic or rubber washers to make sure the speaker isn’t grounded to the vehicle frame...

I‘m not an expert but I had heard previously that incorrect polarity simply reduced the speakers bass performance... something I can check into also

thanks all!
 

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No simple fuse but 10 min of your time and you can unplug it and never deal with it again. It’s located under the glove compartment dash. All you need is to remove trim above glove compartment and side trim. 2 screws/bolts and and glove compartment box and their it is.
 

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I can’t help but wonder if there is simply a fuse that would cancel the ANC system?
I'm not aware of a fuse dedicated to the ANC module.

was also thinking about plastic or rubber washers to make sure the speaker isn’t grounded to the vehicle frame..
I've never encountered anything suggesting a speaker frame should or should not be isolated from ground; it would seem if that were a concern it would be mentioned in the installation instructions. It's not anything I've worked to avoid or accomplish in any of my installs, I know some of mine have been (via fasteners) and others have not been grounded just as a matter of convenience of the mounting situation. But all is fair game for investigation when chasing a troublesome problem.

I‘m not an expert but I had heard previously that incorrect polarity simply reduced the speakers bass performance... something I can check into also
It's long been my understanding that polarity issues risk phase complications with associated sonic performance issues due to interaction with sound waves from other speakers; sometimes selective polarity reversal is actually used to solve specific environmental issues. I've not personally heard of that causing a hum at the speaker driver itself, but again all is fair for investigation when chasing a problem.
 

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Simply reversing polarity (swapping the two wires) on a speaker will not induce noise nor will it negatively affect the sound reproduction on a mostly stock system. This will simply have your speaker push while the other is pulling. In a home audio system, where you are equal distant from each speaker, this will result in phase cancellation and degrade sound. In a car audio system without time alignment, the speakers are already out of phase at your listening position so swapping polarity at the speaker can actually improve things but not always.

As for the noise, any noise that fluctuates with RPM is typically ground induction and what you are hearing is an increase in RPM as the amperage output of the alternator increases. This is pretty rare without adding amplification but I would first check that no wires are being pinched against the metal of the door.
 
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