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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick question. I'm getting a KICKER KEY and speaker updgrade in my new 2021 sport.
I'm installing 4 JL audio speakers.
JL audio sub and kicker mono block.
So my installer said something that I thought was wierd. He said he grabbed the signal for the KICKER KEY after the factory amp.
I thought he would tap into it before the factory amp. And also disconnect the factory amp. Is this normal?
I was hoping he disconnected the factory amp and just got the signal from the head unit for the new Kicker key which comes with a built in DSP and mic for tuning. Let me know your thoughts.

Thx
 

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Your factory amp is 215W, which is most likely peak power. I would guess RMS power is 25W to the sub, and then maybe 10-15W to each of the other 6 channels. Just a rough guess. These ratings would be in line with a decent aftermarket head unit's power. I am sure that the Kicker can handle that kind of power input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was more concerned with the way the factory amp is crossed over and how the factory sound processing would affect my aftermarket amps
 

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The Honda head unit has a proprietary interface to the factory amp so you have no RCA line outs and no speaker-level outputs available from your head unit. The only place you have useable outputs is the speaker-level outputs from the factory amp.

Ideally, you'd do exactly what you suggest, but it's not possible unless you go for an aftermarket head unit (which was much easier pre-2020 MY - it's still possible with 2021's, but a little more complicated). So the only feasible way to do it is as your installer did.
 

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I was more concerned with the way the factory amp is crossed over and how the factory sound processing would affect my aftermarket amps
Yeah, I agree it would be more ideal to get it pre-amp. The KEY should hopefully correct any factory processing assuming it works like the Audio Control or JL Cleansweep.
 

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Ok so I got the truck back and I'm not happy at all with the sound . Something is not right. I HATE those factory amplification systems. A here I thought My sport didn't even have a factory amp.
Anyway... I had the Kicker key on the Tundra with Infinity reference speakers front and rear and I LOVED it. Sold the truck and kept the 6.5" rears but had to sell the truck with the front components on.
So I didn't have time to buy a new set of infinity's Intime for the install and I was forced to buy some JL Audio components C1-650 which I thought would sound even better than my infinity's.
Boy was I wrong. Unless there is something wrong with the install, These are just not bright enough for me. The treble is turned up all the way and it just doesn't give you a stereo sound.

Problem #2 Not sure what's going on with the factory amplification but the right rear can't get any sound. My installer said this is a common problem with some factory systems and that in order to correct this I need "Audio Summing Module like a AudioControl's LC7i. Can someone please chime in and explain what is going on here before I blow more money than I need to.
I already ordered a new set of infinity's for the front.

FYI.
Right not the kicker key is wired like this:
2 front channels going to the front components
2rear channels going to the rear door speakers

Greatly appreciated.
 

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not sure about the issue your having, but i did see that you said there is no factory amp. There is one, its located to the right above the passenger kick panel. I was considering the key but then decided against it because the factory amp outputs Tweeters, front, rear, and subwoofer. If your installer only grabbed the front and rear that may be your issue. The factory amp likely has crossovers already in place. For this reason i was considering the JBL DSP4086. It has 6 channel input and 8 channel output. With this i would do Tweeters, front, rear as my inputs on this amp.
 

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not sure about the issue your having, but i did see that you said there is no factory amp. There is one, its located to the right above the passenger kick panel. I was considering the key but then decided against it because the factory amp outputs Tweeters, front, rear, and subwoofer. If your installer only grabbed the front and rear that may be your issue. The factory amp likely has crossovers already in place. For this reason i was considering the JBL DSP4086. It has 6 channel input and 8 channel output. With this i would do Tweeters, front, rear as my inputs on this amp.
At first I thought it didn't have a factory amp. But Now I know it does. Does any body have the the factory wiring diagram for the 2021 Sport model?

I'm thinking that a AudioControl's LC7i will solve this problem. It it a 6 Channel Active Line Out Hi/Lo Converter+Bass Processor DSP. Can someone confirm this?

 

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At first I thought it didn't have a factory amp. But Now I know it does. Does any body have the the factory wiring diagram for the 2021 Sport model?

I'm thinking that a AudioControl's LC7i will solve this problem. It it a 6 Channel Active Line Out Hi/Lo Converter+Bass Processor DSP. Can someone confirm this?

for the price of this and the price of the kicker key, could you return the kicker and go with the JBL DSP4086? you'll get more power

 

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Are these diagrams the same for the 2021 SPORT? Or do I have to contact HONDA?

for the price of this and the price of the kicker key, could you return the kicker and go with the JBL DSP4086? you'll get more power


No I've had it for a about 6 months. It was in my tundra. It sounded sweet. It sound like shit in the ridgeline. But I'm confident that once we can get it wired correctly it will be just fine.
I really need the wiring diagram.
 

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Are these diagrams the same for the 2021 SPORT? Or do I have to contact HONDA?
yes it should be the same pinout minus the center speaker and exciters that you don't have

No I've had it for a about 6 months. It was in my tundra. It sounded sweet. It sound like shit in the ridgeline. But I'm confident that once we can get it wired correctly it will be just fine.
I really need the wiring diagram.
if you dont want to spend any money you can try using the key just for the front channel. Tweeters + front midbass
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
if you dont want to spend any money you can try using the key just for the front channel. Tweeters + front midbass
I was thinking the same thing...if i can't figure this thing out.

Do i have to contact honda for the diagram?
Or can I get this info from the dealership service dept.?
 

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Long shot, but any chance you are in the DFW area? I actually have an LC7i from my previous system you could try out to see if it fixes it.
 

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Long shot, but any chance you are in the DFW area? I actually have an LC7i from my previous system you could try out to see if it fixes it.
No bud. I'm in IL....But thanks anyway. I think I'm just going to use the Kicker Key to run the front Components sets only and run the rear infinitys off the factory Amp for now..
I will keep you posted by next Saturday.
 

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@lazrguira Where did your installer end up mounting the kicker key? I'm eyeing the JBL or the Kenwood XR600 dsp/amp combo and am assuming there is space under the pass seat. I also just ordered some parts to make my own T-harness so I don't cut into any factory wiring.
 

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@lazrguira Where did your installer end up mounting the kicker key? I'm eyeing the JBL or the Kenwood XR600 dsp/amp combo and am assuming there is space under the pass seat. I also just ordered some parts to make my own T-harness so I don't cut into any factory wiring.
Right now I'm planning on mounting the kicker key and my amp on the opposite of where the stock subwoofer goes behind the rear bench on the floor. I don't like having amps under the seat. I still have to make a custom bracket for it at work. I may end up removing the stock subwoofer enclosure and making a mounting plate there.

we shall see. still undecided.
 

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Right now I'm planning on mounting the kicker key and my amp on the opposite of where the stock subwoofer goes behind the rear bench on the floor. I don't like having amps under the seat. I still have to make a custom bracket for it at work. I may end up removing the stock subwoofer enclosure and making a mounting plate there.

we shall see. still undecided.
just curious, what's wrong with under the seat? i would assume having air flow would be better?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update on install....it has been a disaster.
We can't even get the kicker key to setup a front stage system. It wont detect the woofer and tweeter properly. ANYBODY ELSE HAVE ISSUES TRYING TO TAP INTO THIS FACTORY SYSTEM?

We got all the wiring pinouts but that doesn't mean my installer did it right either.
I'm trying hard to be patient but im running out.

So we are now going to try to utilize it in 4 channel mode for the front only.

Amp 1 for the tweets with cross overs
Amp 2 for the front woofers

We tried that in BI amp mode with out the crossovers but the auto eq dosn't detect it and tune it properly.

I can't believe I'm having so many issues with this crap
 
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