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Update on install....it has been a disaster.
We can't even get the kicker key to setup a front stage system. It wont detect the woofer and tweeter properly. ANYBODY ELSE HAVE ISSUES TRYING TO TAP INTO THIS FACTORY SYSTEM?

We got all the wiring pinouts but that doesn't mean my installer did it right either.
I'm trying hard to be patient but im running out.

So we are now going to try to utilize it in 4 channel mode for the front only.

Amp 1 for the tweets with cross overs
Amp 2 for the front woofers

We tried that in BI amp mode with out the crossovers but the auto eq dosn't detect it and tune it properly.

I can't believe I'm having so many issues with this crap
Might be a polarity issue on the detections.

Here is an oldie but goodie when it comes to tapping after the amplified channels on Honda’s


 

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Ok gentlemen here is what is suppose to be the layout to my 2021 Honda ridgeline . it looks pretty straight forward. it looks like I should be able to tap in before the amp to get a clean flat signal but according to my installer, if he does this he loses volume control from the head unit. I have a Kicker Key amp. At this point I would be happy with just setting up as a front stage and letting the factory amplification power up the rears. He tried that with no success either... So now the kicker key is setup kind of like a 4 channel.
channel 1 is powering the front tweeters and channel 2 is powering the front woofers. The factory amp is powering the rear doors.
the problem I'm getting now is that the passenger door tweeter is very very low almost no sound. and I'm getting some kind of audio interruption signal. I don't even know how to explain it. doesn't happen very often almost like a skip on a cd. I'm going to have to take it to another installer if I can't figure this out.
I just don't this best buy is cut out for this type of install.

Here is where he supposedly tapped in to.
He soldered RCA's to
C5 & C6 for right tweeter
C7 & C8 for left tweeter
A5 & A6 for drivers door speaker
A12 & A13 for passenger door speaker.

Can someone tell me if this is correct? I'm hoping someone else when thru all these issues and can guide me on what to do or what to buy. I'm losing my mind.

Thank you
 

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Not going to bring down Best Buy installers but I met some installers and hang out with them and I wouldn’t trust them much...with that out of the way.

If he soldered RCA’s (assuming it’s a clean solder) then you should be able to swap the left channel tweeter to the right channel and see if that is causing your tweeter issue.
 

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I am sure you/installer followed the kicker install instruction for Bi-amp mode already but since it sounds like that is the new setup up now.

Make sure you change the settings too see if that helps with your issue.



BI-AMP MODE: The majority of systems require this switch to be OFF. Turn ON only if your speakers are wired in “Bi-Amp” mode (refer to BI-AMP operation picture on page 9). The Bi-Amp mode is to be specifically used without passive crossovers. Possible usages are with component speakers (two woofers and two tweeters), or with door woofers and dash speakers. Once the Bi-Amp switch is ON, the KEY amp will automatically detect and apply Bi- Amplification settings during the KEY Auto Setup:
• Woofers and Tweeters: 3.2kHz 24dB/oct High Pass for the tweeters, 3.2 kHz low pass for the woofers.
• Woofers and Dash Speakers: 320 Hz 24dB/oct High Pass for the dash-speakers, 640 Hz low pass for the woofers.
COMPRESSION: Set to enable (EN) to turn Auto Compression on, reducing high amplitude signals above a certain threshold, giving a more consistent listening experience and protecting your audio system. Set to defeat (DF) to turn Auto Compression off.
FADER: Leave the fader switch to ON if you are running two sets of inputs (front and rear for example) to the amplifier. Set the fader switch OFF if you want to drive all channels from a single stereo input.
HI-PASS: Use the HI-PASS switches of the amplifier to set the internal crossover. Choose a cutoff of 60Hz, 80Hz, 120Hz, or OFF depending on the configuration of switches.
 

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Not going to bring down Best Buy installers but I met some installers and hang out with them and I wouldn’t trust them much...with that out of the way.

If he soldered RCA’s (assuming it’s a clean solder) then you should be able to swap the left channel tweeter to the right channel and see if that is causing your tweeter issue.

I did swap it out and when I did, I got the exact opposite.
 

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I did swap it out and when I did, I got the exact opposite.

What I would really like to know is if the the passengers side tweeter has 12db slope and is out of phase. I don't know how to explain it but you can see what I'm talking about in the Video above that "17Sport " Sent.

fast forward to 1min 50 sec... Where he talks about the tweeter being out of polarity.
 

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it looks like I should be able to tap in before the amp to get a clean flat signal but according to my installer, if he does this he loses volume control from the head unit.
That's correct. The audio unit sends fixed-level audio to the amplifier. When you adjust the volume in the audio unit, it sends a digitally-coded command over an RS-485 serial data bus to the amplifier, which adjusts the volume. In other words, volume adjustments are done by the amplifier, not the audio unit.
 

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That's correct. The audio unit sends fixed-level audio to the amplifier. When you adjust the volume in the audio unit, it sends a digitally-coded command over an RS-485 serial data bus to the amplifier, which adjusts the volume. In other words, volume adjustments are done by the amplifier, not the audio unit.

that sucks!
 

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Update on install. I found the issue I was having. The passenger side tweeter solder connection was loose. I re-soldered it and was able to runs the kicker key test to balance things out. I was also able to run it in BI-AMP mode. Everything seems normal now and sounds really great. just a couple of thing I need to iron out.

1) I can hear slight feed back coming from the front tweeters even when the radio is off. Weird. I turned my gains down to 1/8" turn to help with this.
But I'm sure this has to do with having to tap into the factory amp with another amp.This in my head is a no,no.
Right now the installer used a cheap 2 channel line output convertor to tap into the factory amp. PN TC-LOC2 from Metra (2 Channel).
I need to find higher quality pc to this. Any suggestions welcome.

2) The components I was forced to use for this at last minute were JL audio C1-650's. They sound nice but in my onion I love infinity's better.
I've always had infinity's. I feel the the JL tweeter is just not that good at high volumes they distort. The infinity just keeps wanting more.
So I might swap them out or most definitely move them to the rear doors. I have some infinity 6.5" coaxial there now being pushed by the factory amp but I want more.

3) I current have a JL audio JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 (8" Ported Micro sub) and the factory subwoofer both bridge in to my little kicker 300.1
The factory sub is 2 ohms and the JL is 4ohms so the the amp is seeing 1.33 OHMs . Let me tell you that this sounds wayyyyyy better than I thought it would.
When adding after market amplification to factory sub, it wakes up and sounds awesome. I only wish it was a bit stronger.
It can't candle the as much as the JL can so obviously it starts to distort. But this is only at really high volumes.
So now I want to find a better replacement for the factory sealed enclosure. It's there", Might as well use it. and save storage space. and this combo sounds badass.
you get ported deep base from the JL and tight notes from the factory sub. best of both worlds.
so I'm looking close at the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 for $130 or By a separate JL 8" woofer for $229- OUCH


Any opinions on equipment for my quest are always welcome.


Thank you
 

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Update on install. I found the issue I was having. The passenger side tweeter solder connection was loose. I re-soldered it and was able to runs the kicker key test to balance things out. I was also able to run it in BI-AMP mode. Everything seems normal now and sounds really great. just a couple of thing I need to iron out.

1) I can hear slight feed back coming from the front tweeters even when the radio is off. Weird. I turned my gains down to 1/8" turn to help with this.
But I'm sure this has to do with having to tap into the factory amp with another amp.This in my head is a no,no.
Right now the installer used a cheap 2 channel line output convertor to tap into the factory amp. PN TC-LOC2 from Metra (2 Channel).
I need to find higher quality pc to this. Any suggestions welcome.

2) The components I was forced to use for this at last minute were JL audio C1-650's. They sound nice but in my onion I love infinity's better.
I've always had infinity's. I feel the the JL tweeter is just not that good at high volumes they distort. The infinity just keeps wanting more.
So I might swap them out or most definitely move them to the rear doors. I have some infinity 6.5" coaxial there now being pushed by the factory amp but I want more.

3) I current have a JL audio JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 (8" Ported Micro sub) and the factory subwoofer both bridge in to my little kicker 300.1
The factory sub is 2 ohms and the JL is 4ohms so the the amp is seeing 1.33 OHMs . Let me tell you that this sounds wayyyyyy better than I thought it would.
When adding after market amplification to factory sub, it wakes up and sounds awesome. I only wish it was a bit stronger.
It can't candle the as much as the JL can so obviously it starts to distort. But this is only at really high volumes.
So now I want to find a better replacement for the factory sealed enclosure. It's there", Might as well use it. and save storage space. and this combo sounds badass.
you get ported deep base from the JL and tight notes from the factory sub. best of both worlds.
so I'm looking close at the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 for $130 or By a separate JL 8" woofer for $229- OUCH


Any opinions on equipment for my quest are always welcome.


Thank you
why do you need a line out converter? the kicker key has high level inputs. Yes there is RCAs but according to the manual you need to cut them off if you want to use high level https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20180315162200/Manuals/206/206KEY1804.PDF Sounds like you need to find a better installer if you gotta fix their work. :ROFLMAO:

also sounds like you would be better off selling the key and going for a dsp that would be a all in one solution to cleaning up your sound across the board.
 

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why do you need a line out converter? the kicker key has high level inputs. Yes there is RCAs but according to the manual you need to cut them off if you want to use high level https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20180315162200/Manuals/206/206KEY1804.PDF Sounds like you need to find a better installer if you gotta fix their work. :ROFLMAO:

also sounds like you would be better off selling the key and going for a dsp that would be a all in one solution to cleaning up your sound across the board.
Thats exactly what I was thinking. Why in the hell did he use a line out convertor!?
 

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Thats exactly what I was thinking. Why in the hell did he use a line out convertor!?

Could it be that he used it to convert the high level signal to RCA signal? read below


Metra - Two Channel Line Output Converter - Black
Model:TC-LOC2



Description
This line level controller converts high-level speaker line outputs from an audio source into low-level RCA jacks for quality music listening and is compatible with most vehicles' OEM systems for wide-ranging use.

Features
Compatible with most vehicles' OEM systems
For wide-ranging compatibility.
2-50W output converter
Converts high-level speaker line outputs from an audio source into low-level RCA jacks for quality sound reproduction.
Adjustable design
For easy use.
 

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What I would really like to know is if the the passengers side tweeter has 12db slope and is out of phase. I don't know how to explain it but you can see what I'm talking about in the Video above that "17Sport " Sent.

fast forward to 1min 50 sec... Where he talks about the tweeter being out of polarity.
btw i just did a phase check on the stock tweeters and they are both reverse polarity. You can download a neat app on your phone call polarity checker to do the check. All other speaker seems to be correct polarity.
 

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btw i just did a phase check on the stock tweeters and they are both reverse polarity. You can download a neat app on your phone call polarity checker to do the check. All other speaker seems to be correct polarity.
How can you or an app tell if the polarity on both tweeters is reversed? If they're both reversed, they'll be in phase with each other.
 

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How can you or an app tell if the polarity on both tweeters is reversed? If they're both reversed, they'll be in phase with each other.
The app plays a pulse sound and I just put the phone mic right up against the tweeter. It didn't seem to register anything when I was about a foot away so i assume its working properly since every pulse it showed negative with the phone mic against the tweeter. the concept seems similar to this device

Edit: just noticed this device is what @SeattleR just posted

here is a link to the app Polarity Checker - Apps on Google Play
 

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I still don't see how this can work accurately due to the latency of the test signal over a digital path.
 

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I still don't see how this can work accurately due to the latency of the test signal over a digital path.
i'll let you know how accurate it really is once i install my dsp. The dsp lets me flip polarity by push of a button per channel. I'm learning as I go.
 
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