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Discussion Starter #1
Does anybody have any experience they can share about installing wiring? Specifically, from the battery to behind the rear seat, and from behind the rear seat to somewhere near the back of the bed?

I have a new RTL and I want to install a amateur radio VHF/UHF rig...

Thanks,

Jeff
 

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So don't these radios require around a 12 gauge wire and ground? What about the Accessory Trailer Wiring Package from Honda, this way it would be in grated into the factory system. Just don't know what your requirement needed are.

trainman
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi,

Typically there are 12-gauge wires directly to the battery. The VHF/UHF radios use about 15 amps on transmit, and 20 amps for a HF radio, which I may install some day. Thanks for your speedy reply.

Jeff
 

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Does anybody have any experience they can share about installing wiring? Specifically, from the battery to behind the rear seat, and from behind the rear seat to somewhere near the back of the bed?

I have a new RTL and I want to install a amateur radio VHF/UHF rig...

Thanks,

Jeff
I don't have my truck (Yet). However, there is another thread going on ham installs.

Also, if you look at the thread (or instructions) for adding trailer wiring, It appears that the magic trailer "black box" and relays terminate behind the rear seat. I suspect that you can probably find what you need there.

Obviously YMMV. Keep us posted. I will be looking for the same thing before too long.

73's
 

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Here are the instructions for the trailer wiring:

Oops.... Cant get link to work. Google: 2017 honda ridgeline trailer wiring harness instructions . It should come up under the Honda E-Store

Have fun!
 

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I think the key thing about using the wiring harness accessory, or the wiring behind the seat will be the size of the wire, I bet it's now where close to 12 gauge.

trainman
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here's my FT-8900R install in my Ridgeline.

Antennas are mounted on NMO mounts my friend KF4TJY made for me. The tie-downs were turned upside-down to keep ropes, bungees, etc away from the antenna terminations. The brackets are made out of 2.0 x .125 stainless steel, very strong. Antennas are Larsen NMO-2/70 on the right and a Motorola low band antenna cut for 6M FM on the left.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=271089

The control head for the radio was mounted to a piece of 1.5" aluminum angle bracket, which is attached to the dash with Scotch-Lok mounting tape, kind of like Velcro on steriods. Removable, but not by accident.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=271097

The radio and speaker are mounted on a piece of 1x4 that uses the LATCH (child seat) mounting brackets. 1.000 x .125 aluminum bar used on both ends to hold the board in place. I did not want to put the radio on the floor because I want to be able to put my bicycle in there.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=271105

This last photo shows the "gland" or grommet hole I used to fish the coax to the antennas. Once the rear seat was removed (get help) it was pretty easy to fish three pieces of RG-58 through that rubber plug and to the antennas. The third antenna wire goes all the way to the hitch receiver for a (future) HF antenna. Still need a few more parts for that. I have a IC-706 that I will use for mobile HF for road trips, but most of the time, I don't need or want HF on the truck.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=271113

No holes were drilled through the truck. The rubber grommet shown in the 4th pic had the center cut out with an exacto knife, and then sealed with acetic-free RTV. DC power is through a piece of 10-gauge copper wire connected through a 30-amp 3AG fuse to the positive terminal. Ground is picked up from the seat mounting bolt.

The antenna mounting is a compromise. The antennas are somewhat detuned and the pattern is distorted by being so close to the cab, but it works, and, after all, it is amateur radio. I will probably eventually use my NMO mount hole saw and put a stubby whip on the roof, but for the first time in the last 4 cars, I could not bear to drill through the roof to put that up there.

73 de n1kdo
 

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I will post more this weekend. However, I just completed my FT 8900 Install too!

Radio fits nicely under the drivers seat. Control head is in the same place as above.
- I used a trunk lip mount on the existing tiedown at the Left Front of the bed. Coax went straight down the gap between the Left Side and Front Bed sections and came out under the vehicle. I didn't have to pull or modify any panels. I ran it along other lines and popped it out in the LR door rocker panel (there is a gromet). From there, an easy interior path to the driver's seat.

- NEWS FLASH: I used the brake controller pigtail that came with the truck. I pulled DC from there and ran it under the rocker panel to the radio. (This really helped!) No piggy backing or or hacking required.

-Control head cable snaked from radio to the dash via the center console (gentle tug to unsap the side panel on the left, forward side of the Center Console.

None of this required any major surgery to the truck.

I need to find a better way to hold the mike. It has a hair trigger.
Again, pictures soon....

73's.
 

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ScooterS .. are you the TWiT ScooteS? Can you post pics of the pigtail location and connection? And did you say you put another radio's unit under the driver's seat?
 

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ScooterS .. are you the TWiT ScooteS? Can you post pics of the pigtail location and connection? And did you say you put another radio's unit under the driver's seat?
No, Sorry, I'm not that person.

You should have the trailer brake harness with your new truck. It plugs in high under the drivers side dash. Instructions should be with the pigtail. I don't recall the pinout, but it is easy. I ran the power from there, under the driver's front threshold trim, to the B Pillar, and then across to the area under the seat. The antenna came the other direction.

Yes, the rig itself went in easily under the driver's seat. I simply attached some HD velcro (hook side) to the mounting bracket and set it on the carpet.. The head is in the open "cubbie" on the dash.

73's
 

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No problem with UHF and VHF mounting to the driver's front tie down with a hatchback mount. Just tighten to make good ground contact with base. Good SWR and coverage. I can't speak to 11 Meters.
 

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I haven't had a mobile rig in any of my vehicles for years, but am giving it some thought with my G2. Has anyone considered (or better yet, using) a Larsen window mount UHF/VHF antenna? I have a brand new one that I bought probably 15 years ago and never used it, but since I have a bed cover on my truck using an antenna mount that utilizes a tie down is not feasible. I did use the same model Larsen on a '96 Camry way back when and it worked pretty well.

My one concern though is RFI emanating from the Ridgeline. Anyone had any?
The ARRL lists auto manufacturer's policies regarding installation of amateur radio gear. The Honda info listed is: According to Honda, the installation of amateur transceivers has not presented any problems. If a customer experiences a problem, Honda will refer the customer to the original installer or manufacturer of the installed equipment. The installation of an after market transmitter would not necessarily void the warranty, but if the installation were not done properly or damage were caused by a defective after market component, it would not be covered.

You might want to take a look at an old thread by K0BG at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/9-1g-mobile-electronics/10508-fuel-pump-rfi.html#post144608. Also check out his RFI blog at RFI Problems
 

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I'm also planning to install a FT-8900 to my RTL-E. I've read the various threads on how others have installed their equipment and antennas, but my biggest concern (fear) is breaking clips when trying to remove trim pieces such as the LR door sill trim or rear under-seat panels. I have a copy of the College Hills Honda Trailer Harness installation instructions, that shows number and positioning of clips and retaining tabs, but it doesn't provide any information on how to remove the pieces. I'd appreciate any help and details on how individuals removed these pieces. I do have a set of plastic trim removing tools to use. The more information/details on what tools were used (or just hands/fingers), where they were positioned, how the piece was pulled away from its mounted position, how much force needed to be used, etc. would help me in avoiding breakage. Thanks and 73's.

KG8ZY
 

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I'm also planning to install a FT-8900 to my RTL-E. I've read the various threads on how others have installed their equipment and antennas, but my biggest concern (fear) is breaking clips when trying to remove trim pieces such as the LR door sill trim or rear under-seat panels. I have a copy of the College Hills Honda Trailer Harness installation instructions, that shows number and positioning of clips and retaining tabs, but it doesn't provide any information on how to remove the pieces. I'd appreciate any help and details on how individuals removed these pieces. I do have a set of plastic trim removing tools to use. The more information/details on what tools were used (or just hands/fingers), where they were positioned, how the piece was pulled away from its mounted position, how much force needed to be used, etc. would help me in avoiding breakage. Thanks and 73's.

KG8ZY
I can't speak to the other panels, but the LR door sill and nearby trim wasn't a problem at all. I just pulled straight up. Reseat the clips in the trim and push back into place.

Enjoy!
 

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