My '94 Civic developed a leak at the L/front, in that corner. It took me all weekend to find it, a weak weld/seam. The car was over 14 years old when this started.
So, yes. There is body flex going on. Any weak welds/seams may manifest as a leak.
My '94 Civic developed a leak at the L/front, in that corner. It took me all weekend to find it, a weak weld/seam. The car was over 14 years old when this started.I had the leak on the rear passenger side a year ago. It was repaired under warranty. They checked the entire rear cabin for more leaks at that time and found none. 1 month ago, the left rear leaked. Same issue. A bad seam. My concern is that these seams are "gapping" or similar as you utilize the vehicle. I am not sure how that is possible given that these seams are spot welded. The only conclusion I can come too is that the seam sealer deteriorated. It is a 2019. It was out of warranty but the dealership covered the cost. Of course a few small clips holding the trim on the interior of the vehicle and the bed trim was damaged in the process.
Here’s at least one account of it still occurring on the ‘23:Still thinking about purchasing a 2023 RTL. Is there any evidence that the leaking issues have lessened in the later model years? Probably not much data yet on the 2023 models?
thanks
My 2023 RTL-E is in the shop a second time as the pads are soaked ... again.And a macro ? micro ? Sample
My 23 is as dry as a Mormon
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Keep checking. As the body flexes and more miles are put on the truck, you may be affected..And a macro ? micro ? Sample
My 23 is as dry as a Mormon
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Good luck. Hopefully your fix won’t take as long as mine. After 1.5 years, multiple trips to the dealer where they replaced the rear window (it was leaking too), missing seals, multiple field tech visits and attempts by the dealer to seal the seams, the visit to the body shop appears to finally have fixed my leaks (hopefully- crossing fingers!)My 2023 RTL-E is in the shop a second time as the pads are soaked ... again.
Just to think, had the California rains not returned, I would have not had any idea.
In my case, Honda finally determined that a body shop needed to get involved. The body shop showed me pics of the work they did and they had to take the rear fenders off to get access to some of the joints- some of which had zero sealant from the factory. It’s been 3+ months and still dry so far. Time will tell…Has anyone who has had the water leak had it successfully go away completely since they or the dealership stuck more goo in ? I've started wondering about the permanence of the fix they perform.
Specifically about how the dealership fixes it vs how the factory is supposed to apply it, and if it's even the same thing.
I check mine every few months and still dry. The areas you can see when you are under the truck look like a 6 year old just went wild with the goo...but who cares as long as it works. I think they got frustrated with having to take it apart 2 times and made damn sure it would not happen again.Has anyone who has had the water leak had it successfully go away completely since they or the dealership stuck more goo in ?
Thus far, mine has been dry since repaired, and has been parked outside for extended wet periods. However, as someone else mentioned, the rear fenders need removed to correctly seal the joints in the upper unibody frame.Has anyone who has had the water leak had it successfully go away completely since they or the dealership stuck more goo in ? I've started wondering about the permanence of the fix they perform.
A couple thought come to mind:I just found this thread, not because I have the issue and hopefully I won't. If I would have seen this prior to leasing my 23 RTL-E, I would have opted for a different truck. I wouldn't have even looked at a RL if I had known....
I understand owners want Honda and the dealerships to fix the problems, especially under warranty.
As I said, I lease/buy new to avoid repair trips, particularly Honda of all brands. If there was some fix at home I could apply myself, I would do that in a heartbeat, even if it cost money out-of-pocket to avoid 1, 2, or 10 trips to the dealer.
Given the fairly significant changes and investments I've made already, it's a little bit late for that.I would not do anything DIY.
Technically true, and I guess also technically, I could return everything to stock at this point for that purpose. Although, I don't think I could de-Dynamat the doors. That's the only thing I've done so far that can't be undone.The simple fact that your truck is leased is an advantage in this situation. If it leaks and they don't fix it correctly, you will eventually have a smelly, moldy mess to return (i.e... dump in their lap) at the end of the lease. That fact might create some leverage. After all, on a lease it's technically their vehicle, not yours.
Are you asking me?Does it actually leak ?