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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I've been having an issue with my 2011 RTL since we got it used last fall. Found a somewhat similar post on an Accord forum, but unfortunately the OP stopped responding.

I thought we could put some heads together and discuss.

Symptoms: charging system notice (with chime) and red battery LED comes on for a brief moment
(No charging issues, truck starts just fine every time, and I haven't been able to duplicate while parked)

Issues occur when:
1) Coming to a stop as RPM drops
2) Switching from gas pedal to the brake
3) making turns? (maybe because I come off the gas and brake before turns)
4) Random.

Managed to record it today, so here is a YouTube link.

Here's the wiring diagram for the charging system from the FSM. I have looked into the ELD (electronic load detector) a bit, and I understand Hondas have variable charging systems. Would love to hear some thoughts from all the ROC members!
Schematic Rectangle Font Parallel Slope
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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IMO, that looks like the charging system alert that's popping up. I'd have to think it's something related to that.

Light Product Speedometer Watch Font
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
IMO, that looks like the charging system alert that's popping up. I'd have to think it's something related to that.
Absolutely, I guess I'm just looking for help with direction here.
1) Alternator internal issue?
2) Serpentine Belt slip? (doubt it because the belt looks like it's in decent condition, but I'll check the tensioner)
3) Broken Connection? (bad connector/bad wire somewhere)
4) Problem with the ELD? (how would one go about testing that?)

Those are the issues I can think of. The Accord forums also posted about motor mounts, I can snap the throttle in park and see how much the motor moves too I guess.
 

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Do you have an OBD reader? Perhaps there are non-CEL system codes that could help narrow the search.
My first instinct for something like that would be a ground or other intermittent connection issue. I would look for codes for systems that share a fuse box or ground.

Short of the OBD, your FSM will have a list of all the grounds and what circuits are related with them. After checking the battery connections for corrosion and tightness I'd go to the main ground at the battery (to the frame just in front of the battery) then any others that you think will be associated with the systems giving you lights. For how few there are, it doesn't hurt to clean and tighten all of them if you can.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Absolutely, I guess I'm just looking for help with direction here.
1) Alternator internal issue?
2) Serpentine Belt slip? (doubt it because the belt looks like it's in decent condition, but I'll check the tensioner)
3) Broken Connection? (bad connector/bad wire somewhere)
4) Problem with the ELD? (how would one go about testing that?)

Those are the issues I can think of. The Accord forums also posted about motor mounts, I can snap the throttle in park and see how much the motor moves too I guess.
Is your 2011 bone stock? Any mods at all?

The alternator can be checked for output. The serpentine belt tensioner... has that ever been replaced? However, I would think a slipping belt would give an audible indication.

How many miles on your 2011? Is all maintenance up-to-date?

From your video, it only appears to flash at low rpm. Does it ever do it at higher rpms?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do you have an OBD reader? Perhaps there are non-CEL system codes that could help narrow the search.
My first instinct for something like that would be a ground or other intermittent connection issue. I would look for codes for systems that share a fuse box or ground.

Short of the OBD, your FSM will have a list of all the grounds and what circuits are related with them. After checking the battery connections for corrosion and tightness I'd go to the main ground at the battery (to the frame just in front of the battery) then any others that you think will be associated with the systems giving you lights. For how few there are, it doesn't hurt to clean and tighten all of them if you can.
I have a bluedriver that I use for most of my diagnosing, so here's a recent report. Definitely know at some point I will replace the Yaw sensor. TPMS is all up to date and working.
I can't see the anti-lock brake codes being related, but here's what I got.
Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Number
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is your 2011 bone stock? Any mods at all?

The alternator can be checked for output. The serpentine belt tensioner... has that ever been replaced? However, I would think a slipping belt would give an audible indication.

How many miles on your 2011? Is all maintenance up-to-date?

From your video, it only appears to flash at low rpm. Does it ever do it at higher rpms?
Bone stock except for a lift kit and borla exhaust from the previous owner. Should be all up to date on maintenance and we're at about 139k right now. Last two maintenance minder codes were A136 and then B1.

I believe the issue only occurs when I come off throttle, I can NEVER remember a time when I was accelerating and it happened.

Start with the simple stuff. How old is the battery? Check all the big connections at the battery and at the grounding points to the chassis / engine.
Battery is from 2020, it hasn't ever had any audible slow starts from the starter since I have had it. I will double check all the chassis grounds. I know I cleaned the one that goes to the driver's side front (kinda on top of the headlight area)

Thanks for engaging all! I'll try to be as attentive to responding as possible.
 

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Bone stock except for a lift kit and borla exhaust from the previous owner. Should be all up to date on maintenance and we're at about 139k right now. Last two maintenance minder codes were A136 and then B1.

I believe the issue only occurs when I come off throttle, I can NEVER remember a time when I was accelerating and it happened.



Battery is from 2020, it hasn't ever had any audible slow starts from the starter since I have had it. I will double check all the chassis grounds. I know I cleaned the one that goes to the driver's side front (kinda on top of the headlight area)

Thanks for engaging all! I'll try to be as attentive to responding as possible.
It's not just the grounds to the chassis etc. The main terminals to battery terminals may not be fitting tightly. For whatever reason some replacement batteries have undersized terminals that no matter how tight the clamping bolt is made, the connection is still a bit loose. Just take a careful look and feel to all this before you start down the path of more complicated and or expensive repairs.
 

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Did I miss where you've put this on a GR8 or B2Q for a full spectrum test? Is there a whine coming from the alternator at any rpm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did I miss where you've put this on a GR8 or B2Q for a full spectrum test? Is there a whine coming from the alternator at any rpm?
Have not done that yet, but I can look into it. Alternator sounds normal with my stethoscope.

I honestly thought that it sounded like a broken wire or bad connection because of how intermittent the issue is.
 

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Have a full spectrum test performed on it. It'll any charging issue with and without a load and will be a quick pass or fail to help narrow down what you need to look at
 

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Glad you have Blue Driver. It'll list B codes, so better than a cheap OBD tool. I have one too.

Hints....

Yaw rate sensor on G402 (FSM page 16-1)
Lost comms with meter module body codes (B1008, B1060 & B1061) is a gage control system that can be caused by a bad connection on G402

The ABS and the SRS seat detection errors may be sympathetic communication errors, along with the low/high voltage so they could be related to the above of a ground is causing voltage fluctuations. They are all on F-CAN, the fast coms line for safety/critical systems.
I don't think the TPMS is related, because it's so specific. Bet it'd clear on your Blue Driver.

FSM photo 114 has ground 402. Good news is that it's easy to get to under the right side removable dash panel. Hard to imagine it'd be an issue, as it is indoors and covered, but if someone previously messed with it......

I see that the Blue Driver record you sent was from September 7th. I'd clear all the codes and scan everything again so you only have active/recent ones. That may narrow things even more.
If way less errors come up, take a drive and see if you can get the thing to flash that power again. If you can, scan again right away and see what's changed with the codes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Glad you have Blue Driver. It'll list B codes, so better than a cheap OBD tool. I have one too.

Hints....

Yaw rate sensor on G402 (FSM page 16-1)
Lost comms with meter module body codes (B1008, B1060 & B1061) is a gage control system that can be caused by a bad connection on G402

The ABS and the SRS seat detection errors may be sympathetic communication errors, along with the low/high voltage so they could be related to the above of a ground is causing voltage fluctuations. They are all on F-CAN, the fast coms line for safety/critical systems.
I don't think the TPMS is related, because it's so specific. Bet it'd clear on your Blue Driver.

FSM photo 114 has ground 402. Good news is that it's easy to get to under the right side removable dash panel. Hard to imagine it'd be an issue, as it is indoors and covered, but if someone previously messed with it......

I see that the Blue Driver record you sent was from September 7th. I'd clear all the codes and scan everything again so you only have active/recent ones. That may narrow things even more.
If way less errors come up, take a drive and see if you can get the thing to flash that power again. If you can, scan again right away and see what's changed with the codes.
Thanks so much Vlad. Love my Bluedriver. I will definitely take a look at what you suggested.

I cleared all the codes and drove it for two hours. The display flashed the same issue multiple times, all at slower speeds under 25mph. No codes came up, after multiple key cycles and multiple scans. :rolleyes: I would post a report but it's empty.
 

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Doesn’t hurt to keep it plugged in and see if you can capture something after a few drives.
Maybe back to the drawing board on thoughts when you do get something.
I’m totally on board with converted1 above. A full charging system diagnostic might unearth something that’a getting missed by the OBD.

Charge stumbling at lower engine speeds has a good chance of being a weak alternator or alt/batt combo. Those codes, now gone, may have been old ghosts looking like other electrical issues.
 
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