[DesertRidgeline]

Hi,

So this issue has plagued my truck for many years now and I've just ignored it for the most part.

Basically when my A/C is put into the coldest dial position, (without turning on the A/C just using the blower) and even though it's really cold out, there is a hint of warm air coming through the vents. Definitely much warmer than the outside temperatures.

Is it particularly difficult or time consuming to adjust whatever cable might be causing it to not fully go full on cold?

Thanks

 

[zroger73]

Just about every vehicle I've owned does that. All but the cheapest models of cars did away with cables years ago. The Ridgeline is no exception. It uses actuator motors mounted directly to the mode, blend, and recirculate doors. The actuators are commanded to a specific position by the HVAC control head through wires. There are no provisions for mechanical adjustments.

 

[DesertRidgeline]

Thanks,

I have no first hand mechanical experience on these cars, only what I can remember dealer technicians doing to repair the same complaint on some Honda's years ago, so figured they'd kept the same system.

Oh well, I'll just have to learn to live with it or pony up the cash to have it properly diagnosed/repaired.

 

[chiph]

It's actually intentional. The ducts always bring in a little fresh air to ensure the driver stays alert.

Chip H.

 

[DesertRidgeline]

I wasn't talking about how they leak in air all the time (that I'm quite sure is normal), it's that the air that leaks in even on really cold days, is warm as if the mechanism that mixes the hot/cold air is stuck just a tiny bit open and warming the air.

 

[Heli ATP]

Hi,

So this issue has plagued my truck for many years now and I've just ignored it for the most part.

Basically when my A/C is put into the coldest dial position, (without turning on the A/C just using the blower) and even though it's really cold out, there is a hint of warm air coming through the vents. Definitely much warmer than the outside temperatures.

Is it particularly difficult or time consuming to adjust whatever cable might be causing it to not fully go full on cold?

Thanks

Try running the self diagnostic test, see this thread...

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45781

 

[zroger73]

The primary issue is that the blend door that provides a variable path around the heater core to adjust outlet temperature does not make a 100% positive, completely air-tight seal (it's not practical for this application). So, even when the temperature knob is in the coldest position, you still get a little heated air. You won't notice this when the A/C is on because the evaporator removes more heat than is being added by the heater core.

A little HVAC history...

"Old" cars used to control temperature by varying the amount of coolant flowing through the heater core using a cable-operated valve instead of using a blend door that mixes cooled (or unheated) and heated air. This was simple, but was slow to respond because of the thermal inertia of the heater core.

When blend doors appeared, a full flow of coolant through the heater core at all times was allowed. When unheated air was desired, the blend door simply bypassed air around the heater core. Some vehicles reintroduced a valve to block the flow of coolant through the heater core under certain conditions, which varied from model to model. The most common was to allow full flow except when "MAX A/C" was selected.