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I've got a 2018 RTL with 9,500 miles and without a blemish. When I bought it, there weren't any other 2018's left in my area. I really wanted a T or E, but convinced myself that the RTL would be OK.
I just don't like the lack of features on this truck. I hate the 5" color radio, don't like the quirky door lock operation, and I'd like a sunroof & sliding rear window. The safety features would be useful too, since I do make some long drives at night.
I've read mixed reviews on the 8" touch screen head unit.
1. I could trade this in and get a good deal on a 2019 RTL-E, which will probably cost me ~$8,000 with my trade.
2. Wait for a 2020, but I certainly won't get any kind of deal.
3. Install a nice stereo, and live without the safety features, sunroof & sliding rear window.

I plan on keeping my RL for 15 years or so.

Has anyone here owned both a RTL & RTL-E or RTL-T?

What do you think of trade options, or just keeping the RTL?
 

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I got my RTL specifically because I DIDN'T want the nannies, sunroof and widely panned stereo in the higher models.
Stick a good head unit, amp, sub and component speaker system with sound deadening in the doors and you'll never miss the other stuff.
 

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It will cost you to upgrade, you lost thousands the minute you drove your new 2018 off of the lot, how much more are you willing to loose to get the accessories that you still want?

Bill
 

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For what it’s worth I have all the safety “nannies” and Apple CarPlay on my RTL-E and I love how helpful they are! I have a 2016 Odyssey also without the safety stuff (just the annoying camera only collision warning which has many false alarms, and annoying beeping every time you drift 2 inches from the center of your lane which stays turned off). The Ridgeline’s “nannies” are helpful. They gently push you back to the center of your lane and only warn you if you are leaving the lane (the nudge is gentle and can easily be overpowered if it is sensing the lane wrong). It also keeps you a consistent distance from the car in front of you with the adaptive cruise control in moderate traffic (4 selectable ranges that automatically increase with speed). Adaptive cruise does take some getting used to because you have to be conscious of sneaking up in cars because you will slow down and never know it! Also as some have noted, in heavy traffic, it invites cutters because it it keeps you a cars length behind the car in front of you.

The ONLY gripe I have is that the Ridgeline, Passport, Pilot, and Odyssey don’t have what Honda calls “low speed follow”. At 23ish MPH the adaptive cruise just beeps (sounds like a flatline) and stops doing anything (including braking to keep you from hitting the car that stopped or slowed down in front of you!). Presumably the collision mitigation braking system should reengage the brakes at some point, but that system is intended to reduce the severity of a collision and not eliminate one. I haven’t tested this, nor do I want to! The civic, CR-V, and accord all include this low speed follow function that will bring you to a stop if traffic suddenly stops (even at a red light!). I have driven all of these systems and while I hope it eventually makes it to the Ridgeline I was willing to live without it for now and they will hopefully have fully automated driving by the time I get rid of the Ridgeline in 10+ years!

For what it’s worth, I like the big display but changed the sensitivity setting to high so it doesn’t take deliberate presses. I also use Waze through apple car play for navigation most of the time because I love the CarPlay interface. The buttonless (dedicated touch spot) volume IS horrible, but I have steering wheel controls so who cares?

Sorry for the long rant but it might help you decide? I agree with Farther...if you have the money and want it, go for it!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input.

I know that it's not the smartest thing to do financially, but I can afford to do so. I'm not made of money, but considering that I'll keep the truck (my wife & I have a 2001 CR-V & a 2003 Accord EX-L) for at least fifteen years, spread out over time it's not too big of a hit. I'll have to pay a couple of thousand to get a stereo that I want anyway, so that mitigates some of the hit. Because I'd like some of the other features, I can't see holding onto this RL for as long as I have other vehicles.

I'll see if I can get a really good deal.
 

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Thanks for the input.

I know that it's not the smartest thing to do financially, but I can afford to do so. I'm not made of money, but considering that I'll keep the truck (my wife & I have a 2001 CR-V & a 2003 Accord EX-L) for at least fifteen years, spread out over time it's not too big of a hit. I'll have to pay a couple of thousand to get a stereo that I want anyway, so that mitigates some of the hit. Because I'd like some of the other features, I can't see holding onto this RL for as long as I have other vehicles.

I'll see if I can get a really good deal.
A really good deal for an RTL-E appears to be 36.5k based on a thread I read here (but can’t find)...37.5k may be more realistic. But don’t expect your dealer to give you top dollar and that deal unless you know them well based on my personal experience. When I tried to get a good deal on an Odyssey and top dollar for my trade, they wouldn’t give me what the van was worth...they play the game.

You could always try Car Max if you have one to see what it’s worth to them. They will buy a car from you without a trade, but I suppose you would then have to pay sales tax on the whole amount of the new one.😱😱😱 Maybe the dealer would match their price or close. I ended up keeping my Odyssey because the hassle didn’t seem worth it, but it might be worth a shot.
 

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CarMax trade values are the lowest I have ever encountered, if your dealer isn't at 150-200% of the CarMax number, I'd be surprised.

Just know your vehicles trade value, nada, Edmunds, kbb. Know what zero is on the new car, and start from there, be sure to subtract that dealer fee from zero as your starting point. Then you see how close you can get to your number. If you feel you are giving them too much profit, shop them.

Selling your trade private party will always net you more money, but you have to weigh the hassle, especially if you still have a loan and are selling something that will likely require a loan. Selling your trade to another dealer won't net you a win, ever.

Try the rtl-e out to see if you like the nannies, know that this is Hondas first try at the nannies, there are quirks and misfires, but you can turn them off if you don't like them.

You have to decide what the added features are worth to you, right now may be the best time cost wise to pull the trigger. Honda has $1,500 dealer cash, and dealers seem to be willing to deal to close to zero which is around $37,000 on an rtl-e right now.

I'd be fine with an rtl now, but the 2019 does have the roof and slider, I'd want those bad too. You can get a better aftermarket radio than anything Honda offers.

Bed radio and outlet, heated steering wheel, LED lights, more USB chargers are other items you are currently missing, any of those mean something to you?
 

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As others have mentioned the safety features aren't all that great. So you have to decide how much a sliding rear window and sunroof are worth to you. Personally, I would wait and see what the refresh brings. You may see some of the features as standard on all models. If you don't like it, there will still be plenty of 2019's and dealera will be wanting to make room for the 2020's. If you buy one today and next week the refresh looks better, you'll be kicking yourself everytime you pass one for the next 15 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
As others have mentioned the safety features aren't all that great. So you have to decide how much a sliding rear window and sunroof are worth to you. Personally, I would wait and see what the refresh brings. You may see some of the features as standard on all models. If you don't like it, there will still be plenty of 2019's and dealera will be wanting to make room for the 2020's. If you buy one today and next week the refresh looks better, you'll be kicking yourself everytime you pass one for the next 15 years.

I'll probably wait, shelling out ~$7K-$8K for a few extras isn't too smart. I'll probably end up keeping this and having a good stereo installed. As far as driving by other RL's, I already kick myself every time I see the LED DRL's knowing that I should have bought a T or E. I'll just have to see if the urge for a new one passes.

Thanks
 

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The ONLY gripe I have is that the Ridgeline, Passport, Pilot, and Odyssey don’t have what Honda calls “low speed follow”. At 23ish MPH the adaptive cruise just beeps (sounds like a flatline) and stops doing anything (including braking to keep you from hitting the car that stopped or slowed down in front of you!). Presumably the collision mitigation braking system should reengage the brakes at some point, but that system is intended to reduce the severity of a collision and not eliminate one. I haven’t tested this, nor do I want to! The civic, CR-V, and accord all include this low speed follow function that will bring you to a stop if traffic suddenly stops (even at a red light!). I have driven all of these systems and while I hope it eventually makes it to the Ridgeline I was willing to live without it for now and they will hopefully have fully automated driving by the time I get rid of the Ridgeline in 10+ years!
The VSA modulator used on the Pilot, Ridgeline, Odyssey, and Passport is incapable of the fine control necessary to bring the vehicle to a gentle and comfortable stop. It can apply course and relatively moderate to heavy braking force to slow the vehicle during ACC use or stop the vehicle abruptly during a CMBS event, but it can't precisely finesse the brakes at low speeds. Also, the hydraulic pump makes a lot of noise. If Honda were for "force" the Low-Speed Follow in these applications, occupants would become bobbleheads at every stop and a loud motor noise would be heard as brake pressure was modulated.
 

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The VSA modulator used on the Pilot, Ridgeline, Odyssey, and Passport is incapable of the fine control necessary to bring the vehicle to a gentle and comfortable stop. It can apply course and relatively moderate to heavy braking force to slow the vehicle during ACC use or stop the vehicle abruptly during a CMBS event, but it can't precisely finesse the brakes at low speeds. Also, the hydraulic pump makes a lot of noise. If Honda were for "force" the Low-Speed Follow in these applications, occupants would become bobbleheads at every stop and a loud motor noise would be heard as brake pressure was modulated.
Good info. As this is very specific information I will take your word for it. It seems like it would be due for an upgrade but I suppose that would be at the next major model change (if there aren’t size related issues preventing it) and not likely in the 2020 model as the 2020 Odyssey doesn’t have an update either.

On the bobble head concept, it does seem to be less smooth on the Adaptive Cruise Control than the CR-V. Very interesting...but I still love it!
 

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I decided to keep my G1 till new G3 will show up. Hope eventually it wont be a Pilot look! G2 is highly disappointed me when I drove it last weekend, with the space, interior quality etc...I ever I will need elcamino I will buy G2!
 

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Cargurus will help you find some great deals. Got my RTL-E for about $37K last year. Find a dealer with a large inventory and they will deal. I wanted the RTL-E for the safety features, especially blind spot warning for when my son starts driving. I could live without a sunroof and bed speakers. Rear window is helpful sometimes. Large console has some annoyances (it's a bit slow) but overall it's not bad. Like people are saying though I'd wait to see what the G3 brings in style and features.
 

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From what it sounds like, you REALLY want the sunroof and the rear slider, the audio system needs upgraded, and the extra safety features would be a "nice to have". Being that the sunroof and slider came standard on the 2019 RTL and up, why not just trade in your 2018 RTL for a 2019 RTL to get those two features you REALLY want. The step up to the RTL-T might be something you consider, too, being that you get the upgraded head unit/audio system and a few other goodies. However, for likely half of the price difference between the RTL and the -T, you could fit in a really nice aftermarket head unit with some speakers, amp and sub. The -E is really nice, but it's typically $4-5k more than the -T and $6-7k more than the RTL. I, too, keep my vehicles for a very long time. I bought my '07 in 2010 when my budget was REALLY tight, but I still was able to splurge a little bit for the model that I wanted. I'm glad I did, because I use the sunroof, rear slider, and heated seats way more than I thought I would. Do what you have to do to get your truck exactly the way you want it, pay it off, and drive it til it doesn't move any more.
 

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Hard to find an RTL-E buyer who wishes they’d saved the money and went for a lower trim. There are some BE owners who feel that way though.
 
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