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Discussion Starter #1
I left my interior lights on and now the battery is dead. Can I jump start my truck without a problem? If not what's the alternative.
 

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It would be better to charge the battery fully. If that is not possible, the owner's manual outlines the steps for jump starting.
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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Gene, FWIW, pull the battery and get a new one. Unless it was new when you bought it a few weeks ago, I think you would be far better off knowing it was new, since the RL is recently "NEW TO YOU". If you ran it dead flat, being your in Long Island, this may be some of the nicest winter weather to tackle this job in. YMMV
 

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I feel that buying a new battery is a bit premature if it wasn't causing problems prior to this deep discharge. If it will take a charge, it would allow the battery to have proper testing done to determine whether or not replacement is necessary.
 

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Ehh, you've reduced the overall life of the battery by this deep discharge, but it's not the end of the world.

Jump-starting it is like any other vehicle. Pull the other car up so that the wires will reach but the cars aren't touching and leave it running. Hook the red jumper wire from positive terminal to positive terminal on the two batteries. On the other car, hook the black jumper wire to the negative battery terminal. But on the Ridgeline, connect it to a large metal object under the hood away from the battery, like a bracket.

Be sure the wires won't get hit by a fan blade or belt. Wait 2 minutes for the other car to charge up the RL's battery, then try and start it. If it starts right up, you're done. If it doesn't, wait another minute or two and try again. If it still won't start, give up - you've got something that's gone wrong.

When shopping for jumper cables, you want thick copper wires made of fine strands. Watch out for the cheap cables you'll find at Harbor Freight, etc. as sometimes they have thick insulation, but thin copper wires (not what you want). Don't be surprised to spend over $150, given the price of copper. Remember the smaller the gauge number, the thicker the wire.

Chip H.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think I should have explained this a bit better. I know how to jump a battery just not sure if that is a good idea with the Ridge. Pretty sure I've read of computer problems after some folks tried it.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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gene, I killed my OEM battery a couple of times by accident and still got 4 years out of it. I have jump started using another vehicle without issue. But my preferred method is using a jump-starter like the JNC-660 or similar (which I carry with me at all times).

Yes, I've read about creating issues by jump starting, but I do not know why the RL should be any different than any other vehicle out there.

So here's some anecdotal evidence that it can be done safely. FWIW. ;)
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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gene, iirc, some of the reported issues were with using the RL as the jump vehicle.. not the vehicle being jumped. Again, why that might make a difference, I cannot say. Most modern vehicle being computer driven in so many ways, maybe that's part of the issue. Regardless, whether you use a jump starter device or another vehicle to jump start, I can't imagine the engineers not allowing for such a scenario... on either side of the equation.

So I cannot explain the issues some have reported being jumped or being the jumper.
 

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speedlever, it could be that using the RL as a jumping vehicle put such a strain on the battery that it had consequences on the RL's system. We know how finicky our trucks are when the battery is low so it isn't a stretch to think that using one to jump another vehicle might cause problems.
 

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2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
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I highly recommend two products - the first being a CTEK battery charger/maintainer. The 3300US model is what I have and it works wonderfully on both lead acid and AGM batteries. It can be had brand new on Amazon for $50 with free shipping. There is a newer model that looks to be slightly more advanced for $60, too. It's a wonderful product to have in colder climates or situations like this where you accidentally drain your battery. Slow, long trickle charging of a battery is the absolute best way to "bring it back from the dead".

The other product is a lithium ion battery jump starter. Not all of them are created equally, but most all of them will get the job done in a pinch. I have an Instaboost 400 that I keep in the truck at all times. It likely wouldn't have been my first choice, but it was given to me as a gift. It's nice to know that it's there in case I need it, although I haven't had to use it yet. It also includes a flashlight and a USB port for charging small devices in a pinch. It can be had for $60 on Amazon, although better ones are available for around $80-100.

With today's vehicles being more and more sensitive to electrical issues, using jumper cables becomes more and more of a risk. Like speed said, you may never see any adverse issues from doing it, but the risk is there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I did jump it after all and it started right up. I did have to enter the radio code and the mileage on my A trip odo got wiped out. If I had the time I would have used my trickle charger I have on my mc battery. I am leary of the jump starts on newer vehicles
 

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Glad you got it started. You'll probably also have to reset the driver's window auto-down feature. Hold the switch for 3-4 seconds after it opens all the way. Then hold the switch 3-4 seconds in the up direction after it closes.

Chip H.
 

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Well I did jump it after all and it started right up. I did have to enter the radio code and the mileage on my A trip odo got wiped out. If I had the time I would have used my trickle charger I have on my mc battery. I am leary of the jump starts on newer vehicles
Interestingly enough regarding your thought on charging, Honda says you should disconnect both terminals if you are going to charge your battery in the car. I guess that speaks to the sensitivity/uncertainty of these newer electrical/electronic systems. Potential vulnerability & consequences of damage = extra precautions.
Personally, I have to think that a trickle charge would not cause issues, but what do I know.
 

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Interestingly enough regarding your thought on charging, Honda says you should disconnect both terminals if you are going to charge your battery in the car. I guess that speaks to the sensitivity/uncertainty of these newer electrical/electronic systems. Potential vulnerability & consequences of damage = extra precautions.
Personally, I have to think that a trickle charge would not cause issues, but what do I know.
Due to infrequent use, I use a CTEK smart charger to keep my battery up to snuff in the winter. It has a quick-connect attached to the battery to allow in situ plug and play operation. It is connected maybe once a month and I have experienced no problems with this arrangement.

I reckon that many issues related to charging can occur during the connection process, where sparks can fly and current can swing wildly if not done correctly. If the battery is disconnected, at least it limits potential damage to the battery.
 

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IanRTL said:
CTEK... 3300US model is what I have and it works wonderfully on both lead acid and AGM batteries...a newer model that looks to be slightly more advanced for $60
There exists a $105 to $115 model CTEK, but description wise it appears to also have 8 step charging, any ideas on what it does that the $60 does not do ?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FRLO9Y
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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There exists a $105 to $115 model CTEK, but description wise it appears to also have 8 step charging, any ideas on what it does that the $60 does not do ?

Robot Check
Uh oh. The looks like it has the potential of being another gadget I may have to own.

This forum is hard on my wallet!

Time for a bit of research. ;)
 

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There exists a $105 to $115 model CTEK, but description wise it appears to also have 8 step charging, any ideas on what it does that the $60 does not do ?

Robot Check
I believe that the model 7002 can put out more juice and it can be hooked up to the vehicle while the battery is disconnected to maintain settings (radio, nav, etc.). That is the model that I have and I am very happy with it.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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The chart here summarizes the differences in the CTEK chargers.

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-ctek-battery-charger-overview.aspx

Based on that chart, it seems that for ~$100 or less, the 7002, 4.3 and 3300 would be good automotive choices for US vehicles. It seems the only difference between the 7002 and the 4.3 model is:
1) 7A vs 4.3A output
2) the 7002 model has supply mode capability. I believe what that means is you can plug it into your OBD2 port and keep the system alive when you change out a battery.

And then there's the MacDaddy... the 25000 for $200+.

And the kicker? Amazon is NOT an authorized retailer for CTEK. Bummer.
Unauthorized Dealers - CTEK Battery Chargers
 

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2) the 7002 model has supply mode capability. I believe what that means is you can plug it into your OBD2 port and keep the system alive when you change out a battery.
I think it just gets connected to the battery cables. I am not aware of any OBD2 connectors.
 
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